Sukhothai Historical Park: discovering the most beautiful temples by bike

Sukhothai is considered by Thai historians as the first capital of what would become the powerful kingdom of Siam. Its main attraction lies in its historic park, registered in Unesco World Heritage since 1991.

Sukhothai Historical Park is a site that lends itself well to a visit by bike. The central area, in addition to being quite condensed, is shaded and car-free. Sukhothai is located 440 km from Bangkok and is an ideal stopover when passing between the capital and the north of Thailand.

Summary

Sukhothai, a must-see in Thailand

The ruins of the old city of Sukhothai are certainly among the must-see places in Thailand. Some even prefer it to Ayutthaya for its more natural aspect, and more pleasant to visit by bike because no cars driving in the main area and quite few in the other ruins around.

Wat Traphang Thong on its island, just before the eastern entrance to Sukhothai Historical Park.

Sukhothai makes a perfect stop on the way north, roughly halfway between Bangkok and Chiang Rai and if you had to choose only one historical park, I think it should be Sukhothai!

This cuts the lengths of the journeys better and you should be won over by the charms of the site. Afterwards I am not saying that Ayutthaya is not worth it, it is just a different atmosphere and the temples are generally larger and more impressive but it is also more touristy so more people compared to Sukhothai which, apart from the high season, remains relatively pleasant and not too crowded.

The History of Sukhothai

The founding of Sukhothai as the capital of a new kingdom dates back to 1238. For the record, its name is dderived from Sanskrit and means "dawn of happiness". MBut to understand its origin, let's go back a little. In this part of Southeast Asia, the regions were split into several small, influential Tai kingdoms.

When I write Tai, I mean the Tai language, which is a subgroup of the Tai language family. tai kadai although the populations are of different ethnic groups and religious backgrounds.

His origins

The kingdom of was found I wash, founded by the Mons and centered around its capital, I wash (Now Lopburi) who was a vassal of the kingdom of Angkor, then in decline. To the north there was the influential kingdom ofHariphunchai whose capital was the current one Lamphun (close to Chiang May, which did not yet exist). The little kingdom of Phayao, and the kingdom of Ngoen Yang

Sukhothai was then a commercial city under the supervision of Angkor although benefiting from a great deal of autonomy because it was located well to the north of the kingdom. Taken by the king of the kingdom of Lavo in 1180, its independence really began under the rebellion of 2 brothers, Po Khun Bangklanghao and Po Khun Phameung (Po Khun was a title of nobility).

Maps of the kingdoms of Southeast Asia around 1300. By Javierfv1212

Its expansion

Po khun Bangklanghao, then governor of Sukhothai, declared his independence and then became king under the name of Sri-Indrathit, by founding his new kingdom in 1238. His son, the heir, succeeded him on his death in 1257, but it was mainly under the influence of Ramkhamhaeng, his brother who took up the torch after the latter's death, that the kingdom would experience its true development.

Crowned in 1279, Ramkhamhaeng would conquer the neighboring regions, nibbling away at the kingdom of Lavo, and taking advantage of the fall of the kingdom of Pagan (in present-day Burma). His kingdom would spread to the north of the current regions corresponding to Phrae and as far as Luang Prabang (in Laos), in the south, taking control of the Kra isthmus, an important strategic area for maritime trade and subjugating the kingdom of Sri Thamnakorn (present-day city of Nakhon Si Thammarat).

A statue of King Ramkhamhaeng in Sukhothai.

The influential king, posing as a true father of the nation, will widely spread Theravada Buddhism throughout the kingdom. He is also the creator of the Thai alphabet, based and adapted from the Khmer alphabet. For these reasons and because the knowledge about the kingdoms

Its decline

After Ramkhamhaeng's death, his son Phaya Loethai struggled to maintain the allegiance of the vassal kingdoms. Sukothai then lost what is now Uttaradit province, then Luang Prabang and Vietiane. 

To the north, the 3 kingdoms of Ngoen yang, Hariphunchai et Phayao merge under the reign of the king Mengrai, thus becoming the kingdom Lanna in 1267. This consolidated kingdom prevented the expansions of Sukhothai to the north, who also conquered Tak in 1321.

Further south, the kingdom of I wash persisted. The real decline came in 1350 when a nobleman called U-Thong, founded his own kingdom on the plains of Chao Phraya. Crowned in 1351 under the royal name of Ramathibodi I and ssucceeding at the base to the sovereign of I wash, he transfers his capital to Ayutthaya, name based on the city ofAyodhya, in North India (city of Branch, hero of the epic of Ramayana, very popular in Southeast Asian regions).

A map of the rival city, Ayutthaya.

Despite the difficult beginnings of this kingdom, Sukhothai becomes vassal ofAyutthaya from 1378 under the impetus of Boromma Ratchathirat I. The latter being the lord of the powerful kingdom of Suphan buri. He took power over Ramsuan (son of Ramathibodi Ist) causing him to abdicate after a year of reign.

As the city lost influence, it was completely abandoned in 1419, when the king Sai Lue Thai transferred its capital to Phitsanulok. At his death in 1424, the two remaining brothers, Paya Frame and Paya Banmeung, fought for the succession before the king ofAyutthaya Intharacha, intervened by splitting the kingdom in two, weakening it even more.

The final blow came when Borommarachathirat II, the son of Intharacha, married the sister of the 2 brothers of Sukhothai and gave birth to a son, the prince Ramesuan who will become king ofAyutthaya in turn in 1448, marking the official end of the kingdom of Sukhothai.

It is very complicated to summarize Thai history, because there are very few reliable written sources, not to mention the differences between the birth names and royal names of the different kings which contribute to the confusion.

If we look at the history of the kingdom of I wash for example, we notice an end date as being 1388, whileAyutthaya was supposed to be the capital and ruling kingdom at the time. Similarly, Ayutthaya is indicated as being the capital since 1087 of this same kingdom of I wash...

In short, the purpose of this page is not to give a history lesson either, but understand that the history of Thailand remains full of approximations in the dates. The general idea remains there and I wanted to summarize everything to help you understand the story behind these ruins that we can see today.

Old photo of Wat Si Sawai.

Following its abandonment, the city slowly became overgrown with vegetation, covering all of its magnificent temples and leaving the once glorious city forgotten for a few centuries...

So much so that we lost track of it untilon expedition launched at the end of the 19th century^e can to find its ruins. It was not until the 50s and 60s that renovation work began to preserve this important heritage.

Practical information: how to get around Sukhothai

We come to the part that interests you more than a succession of complicated dates and names. So let's see together the Practical information for visiting Sukhothai to know : How to get around the historic park, different areas to discover,  entrance fees and opening times.

And we start with the essentials, the entrance fee and opening hours:

Areas of Sukhothai Historical Park

Let's clarify something right away. Sukhothai Historical Park is divided into five zones:

• • • Central area
    • North zone
    • East Zone
    • South zone
    • West zone

A central area therefore, formed by the square of the old woman town (that the village is also called Mueang Kao, which literally means “old town”), then 4 zones distributed around it according to the cardinal points.

Old city wall delimiting the central square of the historic park.

In total, the park includes: historical remains at more than 190 sites spread over an area of ​​70 km².

There used to be a package that allowed you to visit all the zones freely, but this was revoked a few years ago for reasons I don't know... Of all of them, only the East zone is free, but of course, it's also the least interesting.

So you will need target areas to visit. The two most interesting ones where the temples I talk about below are located are the central and northern areas.

La central zone includes the heart of the historic park, with the royal temple (Wat Mahathat) in particular. So that's where you should start. Then, head to the northern area to visit Wat Si Chum, and as a bonus Wat Phra Pai Luang not far from there.

Iconic photo spot at Wat Mahathat, the main temple in the central area.

Let us clarify for the prices that if you are visiting the areas other than by bike, the supplement changes. Already, if you are à foot, there is no supplement (logic). If you arrive by scooter, you will pay 20 Baht and finally 50 Baht if you are by car. But the central area is not accessible by scooter (except the electric ones managed by the park obviously, see below) nor by car.

Note that Many of the ruins are accessible for free, but for major temples in non-central areas, there will be an office to pay the entrance fee.

How to visit Sukhothai Historical Park

Even if everything remains quite condensed, it would be a bit long to visit everything on foot. (even though I've seen some done in the central part). The ideal way is by bike.

Arriving at the main entrance, located at the end of the road arriving via the East entrance, you will see several opposite bicycle rental companies. So you will be spoiled for choice.

count 30 Bahts for a day's bike rental.

Riding my bike!

Knowing that many guesthouses and hotels make them available for their customers so you might not even need to rent one. Note that at the south entrance, there are also bicycles and other vehicle choices (see below) as well as the area including souvenir shops, restaurants and toilets.

If cycling is not an option for you (children not comfortable, fear of the heat, etc.), there is still a solution other than walking. You can indeed rent a type of electric tuk tuk (for 3 people including a driver) for 200 Baht per hour.

It's not very fast (like 15 km/h max and even then) but it allows you to visit the site effortlessly. However, I don't know if it is allowed to drive with it in areas other than the power station. There is also electric carts with the appearance of old-fashioned cars (Made In Sukhothai !), but the latter being a bit faster, They require an international license.

Electric cars made in Sukhothai.

Afterwards, it is possible to drive them yourself for the versions up 4 people. Assuming you are in a group, it will take a chauffeur for longer vehicles. Count 400 Baht per hour for these vehicles.

The other solution finally being to take the kind of tourist "train" open (amusement park type) which can tour the site in 1 hour, these are only available from the East entrance. It only costs 40 Baht and you will be entitled to comments… but only in Thai 😉

Visiting Sukhothai by car

In case you are on a roadtrip through Thailand, you can move easily from one area to another by car and park on the parking spaces available at the entrance (they are free).

You will still need a bike for the central part which is no longer accessible in car (It was just a few years ago… And it's better that way!).

How much time to spend on sightseeing in Sukhothai?

If you are planning your stay, it may be useful to know how much time these visits will take you. In absolute terms, it all depends on your affinity with old stones and therefore does the essential suit you or is visiting as many areas as possible your challenge.

Finally, and logically, your time on site will depend on your locomotion option. If you are satisfied with the central part, on foot, allow about 3 hours.

By bike, it can be done in 2 hours., in which case you can add the visit to the northern area, which also carries the 3-hour tour of the historic park.

If you are by car, you can add the west and south zones and not exceed 4 hours of visits, i.e. half a day.

Add to that some time to possibly visit the National Museum (located next to the East entrance) plus time to stop and eat and you shouldn't need to spend more than half a day there in all cases.

What are the main temples to see in Sukhothai?

To answer this question, let's review the main temples to see during your visit to Sukhothai. You will find places to pay for entry next to the East entrance and also to the South, after passing the National Museum (see map below).

If you have bikes, don't forget to report it. (they will ask you anyway) way and tickets will be checked at the entrance).

The central area

The central area corresponds to the old walled town. This one was surrounded by a wall and a moat, traces of which can still be seen today. Start by heading left at the end of the alley if you arrive by the main entrance to the East and stop straight ahead if you arrive by the South entrance.

We will focus on the 3 main temples and one monument:

• • Wat Mahathat
  • Wat Si Sawai
  • Wat Sa Si
  • Ramkhamhaeng Monument

Wat Mahathat

The most important temple of Sukhothai. It was next to the royal palace, of which nothing remains today. When you arrive in front of it, you will see a group of structures with the mountain as a backdrop. If you are there in the right season, the pool in front will be filled with water, and even with water lilies embellishing the picture.

Le What Mahathat, whose name translates to “temple of the Great Relic” (and it is therefore not the only one in Thailand with the same name) was built upon the founding of the capital in the 13th century by Sri Indradthit, the first king of the Sukhothai Kingdom. The temple was built according to the architectural concept of the Mandala, an ancient Hindu symbol symbolizing the forces of the universe.

Overview of Wat Mahathat from the south entrance.

Although it was initially much smaller, it was subsequently enlarged and renovated several times by later kings. This is why you can admire several styles of architecture there.

Indeed, among The numbers chedis (185 originally!) and various buildings making up the temple, including the ubosot and 3 Mondops (housing statues of Buddhas), we find elements of influence Lanna, Sinhalese (Sri Lanka), My (in a style corresponding to the period of the kingdom ofHariphunchai) and the style specific to Sukhothai.

There you can admire bas-reliefs and stucco decorations. Many Buddha statues mark the site, including a whole series around the stupa (chedi) main dating from 1345. The latter is topped with a button-shaped point, symbolizing a closed lotus flower. It is a rare architectural survivor My byHariponchai, with a pyramidal structure and several floors, including niches housing sculptures.

SIf you look at one of them, you will see a Buddha with a seemingly effeminate appearance. It is a typical representation of the time of Sukhothai and we must see an effect of movement there, because it represents the Buddha walking.

I will talk about it again later, but it was in this temple that the stele dating from 1292 was found with inscriptions using the first letters of the newly created Thai alphabet.

Wat Si Sawai

Located in the southwest of What Mahathat, this small temple is distinguished by its different architecture. For example, we notice a surrounding wall made of laterite instead of the usual red bricks. In the background you can see 3 towers surrounded by sculptures with remains of columns and building in front.
Le What Si Sawai was originally a Hindu temple, dedicated to Shiva. It is also the oldest on the site! The temple is said to have been founded by the Khmers at the end of the 12th or even the beginning of the 13th century, shortly before the founding of the kingdom of Sukhothai.

The 3 original towers are Khmer style (which we call prang and no chedi ou stupa in this case) and remained unfinished. The site would later be transformed into a Buddhist temple, which is why you can see the main gate mixing laterite with brick, added later.
Likewise, the covered halls (called viharns) which were in front of the 3 original towers are made of bricks and we can clearly see that this does not correspond to the original architecture.

Wat Sa Si

Wat Sa Si Temple is located a few hundred meters northwest of Wat Mahathat. It is a typical example of what would become Thai temple architecture. According to the texts of one of the stone inscriptions discovered in Sukhothai, Wat Sa Si was founded towards the end of the 14th century.

You will first pass a small chedi in front of which is a beautiful example of a walking Buddha. This is a posture called Vitarka mudra, symbolizing teaching and discussion. We then find there the main chedi, with a square base and bell-shaped typical of the Sinhalese style. In front was the ubosot (ordination hall) and opposite, placed on a small artificial island, a small viharn.

Wat Sa Si has the particularity of being surrounded by water (a pond named Tra Phang Tra Kuan).

For the record, just after the bridge to cross to get there, you will see an avenue of trees on your left (while you will have the chedis in front of you). This was the road crossing!

In fact, before entering the Unesco World Heritage, the national road passed directly through the site from East to West. But the condition sine qua non to obtain this reward was to deflect it.

Wat Sa Si and its characteristic bell-shaped chedi.

The pond in the summer, filled with water lilies.

View of the entire temple from across the pond.

Statue of King Ramkhamhaeng

We come to the monument to the glory of the king Ramkhamhaeng who is considered the creator of the Thai alphabet. This is why he is depicted with a tablet on his right hand.

What is certain is that during his reign he widely spread writing throughout his kingdom. The alphabet (which is alpha-syllabic) is featured on the famous “ stele of Ramkamhaeng", discovered by mongkut (future king Rama IV) some 600 years later. This stele represents a crucial testimony to life in Sukhothai at the time.

At the site of the Ramkhamhaeng statue, a copy of which can be seen on the right side after the first set of steps. The original is on display at the National Museum in Bangkok.

Thai people always show a lot of respect for previous monarchs who have particularly made the country evolve and who have shown real respect towards its people.

This is why you will most likely see them buying flower offerings from the small shop next door (which also has bottled water if it's time for you to refill).

Other temples

Going up the central part between the What Si Sawai and  What If you go northwest, you will pass a nicely wooded area, very nice for enjoy a little shade if the heat becomes too intense. Whether you cut through the woods or follow the main path, you can walk past le What Between Phang Ngoen (which means " silver lake temple").

Wat Tra Phang Ngoen and its chedi.

Coconut trees in the historic park.

Access to the small island.

Wat Mahathat seen from the small island.

The latter is not of great interest as such, you will find there a chedi in the shape of a lotus bud and a sculpture on the side of a walking Buddha. On the other hand, the latter faces an artificial lake, where in the middle sits a small island with the ruin of a small temple on it.

This small island is very photogenic, Parts and accessories you will have on one side the What Between Phang Ngoen with the mountain in the background, and on the other you will be face What Mahathat. Next to it, a wooded area of ​​coconut trees. Birds can often be seen in this area.

On the way to the northern area, you can pass by the small San-Ta-Pha-Daeng sanctuary, another structure that we owe to the Khmers.

Small Khmer temple San Ta Pha Daeng.

The northern zone

You will pass by some ruins that can be seen from the side of the road, including one chedi surrounded by elephant sculptures (Wat Sorasak), a common figure at the time.

Wat Sorasak and its elephants.

For this area, There are 2 notable temples :

• Wat Phra Phai Luang
• Wat Si Chum

Wat Phra Phai Luang

Just like the What Si Sawai, you will notice 3 towers that look strangely like it. It's normal. This is also about prangs, because this temple, just like the What Si Sawai, dates back to the end of the 12th or beginning of the 13th century, before the founding of Sukhothai as capital.

For if it was not yet the heart of the new kingdom in the making, it was still an important outpost of the Khmer empire. This temple was the center of the city before Sukhothai and doing the most important building of this period.

A whole prang and the remains of the other two in front of Wat Phra Phai Luang.

It is said to have been founded at the end of the rule of the Angkor Kingdom, under King Jayavarman VII, who had built some of the Most impressive monuments of Angkor, notably the Bayon Temple. Wat Phra Phai Luang was built by the Khmers as a Hindu temple, here dedicated to Vishnu.

As the What Si Sawai, It was later converted into a Buddhist temple.. The rest is otherwise quite damaged compared to other temples. Starting with the prangs, two out of three of which burned.

We can just guess the chedi central in the type My byHaripunchai. The latter was surrounded by a cloister under which numerous statues of Buddhas were aligned.

In the background, near the eastern entrance of the temple (the other being on the West side, close to the What If Chum), we can see there the remains of a mandapa. Of some of the statues that surrounded it, one can be seen standing, another in front that was lying down and others on the sides, also standing, of which only the feet remain today.

La area delimiting this great temple is un square surrounded by a 600-metre-long water-filled moat, its buildings aligned on an east-west axis. Knowing that the added structures were built at different periods (mainly 14th and 15th centuries), The temple shows the evolution of architecture and art of Sukhothai. It contains a mixture of different architectural styles such as Khmer, that specific to Sukhothai, and even a style precursor to that which became the reference during the period ofAyutthaya.

Overall, It is a temple considered to be of little interest because it is too dilapidated compared to others. For me, perhaps because it is little visited and therefore has a calmer atmosphere, and that it still has a varied architecture with beautiful remains of sculptures and stucco, which makes me have a little crush for this place. Not to mention that the latter, surrounded by a pond, is located next to a small temple, recent and still inhabited by monks.

Around the basin, one can make out the remains of an ancient wall, or failing that, small ruins of secondary temples. Of course, because today it has been cleared and developed, and the place is surrounded by old terracotta ovens, the region having been renowned for its pottery production.

If this is your first temple in this area, remember that you will have to pay a new entrance fee of 100 Baht per person + bicycles if applicable.

Wat Si Chum

We end with one of the jewels of Sukhothai. It is an ancient temple dating back to the 13th century. Le What If Chum is translated by " Bodhi Tree Temple" Bodhi Trees (also called pagoda fig or pipe) are found in many temples around Thailand, as it was under a tree of this species that the Buddha meditated to attain Enlightenment in India.

The path leading to Wat Si Chum and its mango tree on the right.

You will immediately see this large building at the end of an alley when you arrive at the parking lot. You will probably notice a massive head visible between the bricks forming the entrance to this imposing building thaton call a mondop.

In the absence of a Bodhi tree, it is above all under the shade of a giant mango tree that mondop finds himself, the latter will watch over the What If Chum since over 200 years. In front of mondop are the remains of the viharn, of much more modest size. Next to it is the remains of a small prayer place with a statue of Buddha in a seated position with a rather noticeable smile.

Inside of mondop, superbly preserved despite having lost its roof over the years, you will be welcomed by the imposing statue of Buddha in a sitting position. She looks at you from her 15m height with a slight enigmatic smile. The statue dominates the entire square with its 11 m width. With these dimensions, it is the biggest of Sukhothai. Here too, Thais often come to pray.

With Wat Mahathat, it's for me the most beautiful temple or failing that, the one releasing the most emotions facing this image of Buddha staring at you.

The great Buddha of Wat Si Chum.

As in general every important statue, it has its own name, here Phra Achana, which translates to “ he who is not afraid" It is in one of the most classic positions that you will come across many times in Thailand. The right hand is placed on the knee (the latter is today covered with leaves ofor), legs in lotus position, this is what we call the Bhumisparsha mudra, which can be translated as “ the call to the Earth to bear witness" 

The site was extensively renovated in the 50s and has provided much insight into the origins of the kingdom. Indeed, an ancient stone inscription found in the mondop of Wat Si Chum provides information on the founding of the Sukhothai Kingdom.

The southern zone

Finally, in the South zone, it is le What Chetuphon which is most important. Dating back to the 14th century, not much remains today. Its main remaining structure being a mandapa, which was originally surrounded by four Buddhas in standing, sitting, lying and walking postures, of which only half remain today. (but without head).

Somewhere in the historic park.

If you go to this area, also take a look at the temple opposite, le What Chedi Si Hon. With its chedi made of laterite brick, it has beautiful remains of sculptures of stucco on its square base including Figures of elephants.

The rest is made up of lots of small ruins scattered across the countryside.

The area is

Assuming you care to see at least one temple in each area, the only one with any appeal is Wat Chang Lom. Located behind the Legendha Sukhothai Hotel, this temple has a large bell-shaped chedi, surrounded by elephant sculptures. (yes, again) rather well preserved.

The West Zone

In the West Zone, the only one worth it is Wat Saphan Hin. This small temple of which not much remains except a standing Buddha against a remnant of a wall, overlooks the hill and therefore faces (from afar) the historic park.

The rest will be just small ruins without much interest.

View from the ruins of Wat Saphan Hin.

The standing Buddha at Wat Saphan Hin.

When to go to Sukhothai

When is the best time to visit Sukhothai ? To this I would tend to respond all year ! Forget the “ but, and the monsoon?", because apart from August and September, you could still have some sun, if onlyce only partially, during the day.

Furthermore, going there in July, for example, is a guarantee of very green nature, as opposed to January, for example, which is in high season, but where the vegetation will be yellow.

The best time, as for the whole of the northern and central part of Thailand, is the month of november. The, it is good weather normally guaranteed, water lilies and lotus flowers galore and trees still very green.

Where to stay in Sukhothai

One important thing needs to be made clear here. It should not be confused Sukhothai, the new town, with the historic park (sometimes referred to as " Old Sukhothai"). In fact, by default, your searches will tend to suggest hotels in the city, but the latter is 12 km from the historic site.

To sleep on site at the park (Historical Park), you should stay in Mueang Kao, the village which is partly located within the old wall forming the central square.

After that don't worry too much either, there is obviously a shuttle bus that runs between New Sukhothai and Old Sukhothai so it is quite easy to get to the historical park from the city and vice versa.

Plus it’s folkloric!

Research tool

True to form, I found the hotels listed below on Agoda, so I'm making the tool available to you (and don't forget the little tip along the way).

Where to eat in Sukhothai

If you are staying in one of the recommended hotels, I can only advise you to go eat at S Kitchen Restaurant, located opposite the Le Charme hotel. It is accessible on foot from the hotels mentioned (except the first one which is in another area).

Most guesthouses will even provide you with a flashlight for the hundred meters to walk along the road. It's a little more expensive than a street restaurant, of course, but it's good and very varied. On the other hand, it is an open space, so bring mosquito repellent!

Close to the historic park, you have Mae Boonmee Cafe for lunch.

How to get to Sukhothai?

By car

From Bangkok, there are 2 choices, either from the west or from the east. In both cases, take road no. 32 in direction of Nakhon Sawan. Then the choice is offered.
Either you take direction Tak / Kamphaeng Phet and continue on Route No. 1. You will then need to turn right onto Route 101 passing through Kamphaeng Phet.

The other choice is to take direction Phitsanulok continuing on Route 117 after Nakhon Sawan, then towards Sukhothai.

Knowing that when you see the signs indicating Sukhothai, this is the new town and not the historic park, but the latter is also indicated when arriving towards the new town.

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