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Sukhothai Historical Park: discovering the most beautiful temples by bike

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Sukhothai is considered by Thai historians as the first capital of what would become the powerful Kingdom of Siam. Its main attraction lies in its historical park, listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1991.

Sukhothai Historical Park Sukhothai is a site well-suited to exploring by bicycle. The central area, besides being quite compact, is shaded and car-free. Located 440 km from Bangkok, Sukhothai makes an ideal stopover when traveling between the capital and northern Thailand.

Sukhothai, a must-see in Thailand

The ruins of the ancient city of Sukhothai are certainly among the must-sees in Thailand. Some even prefer it to Ayutthaya for its more natural setting and the fact that it's more pleasant to explore by bicycle, as there are no cars in the main area and very few in the surrounding ruins.

Sukhothai makes a perfect stop on the northern route, roughly halfway between Bangkok and Chiang Rai, and if you could only choose one historical park, I think it should be Sukhothai!

This cuts the lengths of the journeys better and you should be won over by the charms of the site. Afterwards I am not saying that Ayutthaya is not worth it, it is just a different atmosphere and the temples are generally larger and more impressive but it is also more touristy so more people compared to Sukhothai which, apart from the high season, remains relatively pleasant and not too crowded.

temple wat traphang thong sukhothai
Wat Traphang Thong on its island, just before the eastern entrance to Sukhothai Historical Park.

The History of Sukhothai

The founding of Sukhothai as the capital of a new kingdom dates back to 1238. Interestingly, its name is derived from Sanskrit and means "dawn of happiness." But to understand its origin, let's go back a little further. In this part of Southeast Asia, the regions were divided into several small but influential Tai kingdoms.

When I write Tai, you should understand the Tai language, which is a subgroup of the Tai-Kadai language family, although the populations are of different ethnic groups and religious origins.

His origins

There was the kingdom of Lavo, founded by the Mon people and centered around its capital, Lavo (modern-day Lopburi), which was a vassal of the then-declining kingdom of Angkor. To the north lay the influential kingdom of Hariphunchai, whose capital was present-day Lamphun (near Chiang Mai, which did not yet exist). There were also the small kingdom of Phayao and the kingdom of Ngoen Yang.

Sukhothai was then a trading city under the tutelage of Angkor, although it enjoyed considerable autonomy due to its location well to the north of the kingdom. Captured by the king of the Lavo kingdom in 1180, its independence truly began with the rebellion of two brothers, Po Khun Bangklanghao and Po Khun Phameung (Po Khun was a title of nobility).

map of south east asian kingdoms around 1300
Maps of the kingdoms of Southeast Asia around 1300. By Javierfv1212

Its expansion

Po Khun Bangklanghao, then governor of Sukhothai, declared his independence and became king under the name Sri-Indrathit, founding his new kingdom in 1238. His heir son succeeded him upon his death in 1257, but it was primarily under the influence of Ramkhamhaeng, his brother who took over the reins upon the latter's death, that the kingdom experienced its true growth.

Crowned in 1279, Ramkhamhaeng would conquer the neighboring regions, nibbling away at the kingdom of Lavo, and taking advantage of the fall of the kingdom of Pagan (in present-day Burma). His kingdom would spread to the north of the current regions corresponding to Phrae and as far as Luang Prabang (in Laos), in the south, taking control of the Kra isthmus, an important strategic area for maritime trade and subjugating the kingdom of Sri Thamnakorn (present-day city of Nakhon Si Thammarat).

statue of king ramkhamhaeng sukhothai
A statue of King Ramkhamhaeng in Sukhothai.

The influential king, positioning himself as the true father of the nation, widely disseminated Theravada Buddhism throughout the kingdom. He is also the creator of the Thai alphabet, based on and adapted from the Khmer alphabet. For these reasons, and because knowledge about the kingdoms

Its decline

After Ramkhamhaeng's death, his son Phaya Loethai struggled to maintain the allegiance of the vassal kingdoms. Sukothai then lost what is now Uttaradit province, then Luang Prabang and Vietiane.

In the north, the 3 kingdoms of Ngoen Yang, Hariphunchai and Phayao merged under the reign of King Mangrai, becoming the Lanna kingdom in 1267. This consolidated kingdom prevented the expansions of Sukhothai to the north, which also conquered Tak in 1321.

Further south, the kingdom of Lavo persisted. The real decline came in 1350 when a nobleman named U-Thong founded his own kingdom in the plains of the Chao Phraya. Crowned in 1351 with the royal name Ramathibodi I and succeeding the ruler of Lavo, he transferred his capital to Ayutthaya, a name based on the city of Ayodhya in North India (the city of Rama, hero of the epic Ramayana, very popular in Southeast Asia).

French map showing Ayutthaya in 1686 Courtaulin
A map of the rival city, Ayutthaya.

Despite the kingdom's difficult beginnings, Sukhothai became a vassal of Ayutthaya in 1378 under the leadership of Boromma Ratchathirat I, the lord of the powerful kingdom of Suphan Buri. He seized power from Ramsuan (son of Ramathibodi I), forcing him to abdicate after a year's reign.

As the city lost influence, it was completely abandoned in 1419 when King Sai Lue Thai moved his capital to Phitsanulok. Upon his death in 1424, the two remaining brothers, Paya Ram and Paya Banmeung, fought over the succession before King Intharacha of Ayutthaya intervened, splitting the kingdom in two and further weakening it.

The final blow came when Borommarachathirat II, the son of Intharacha, married the sister of the two brothers of Sukhothai and gave birth to a son, Prince Ramesuan, who would become king of Ayutthaya in 1448, marking the official end of the kingdom of Sukhothai.

It is very complicated to summarize Thai history, because there are very few reliable written sources, not to mention the differences between the birth names and royal names of the different kings which contribute to the confusion.

If we look at the history of the Lavo kingdom, for example, we see an end date of 1388, even though Ayutthaya was supposed to be the capital and ruling kingdom at that time. Similarly, Ayutthaya is listed as having been the capital of this same Lavo kingdom since 1087…

In short, the purpose of this page isn't to give a history lesson, but understand that the history of Thailand remains full of approximations regarding dates. The general idea remains, and I wanted to summarize everything to help you understand the history behind these ruins we can see today.

old photo wat si sawai sukhothai
Old photo of Wat Si Sawai.

Following its abandonment, the city slowly became overgrown with vegetation, covering all of its magnificent temples and leaving the once glorious city forgotten for a few centuries...

So much so that all trace of it was lost until an expedition was launched at the end of the 19th century.e allow us to find its ruins. It wasn't until the 50s and 60s that renovation work began to preserve this important heritage.

Practical information: what you need to know

We now come to the part that interests you more than a succession of dates and complicated names, even though I always like to explain the context, because it is always interesting to understand what surrounds us.

Let's look at the Essential information to know before visiting Sukhothai to know : how to get around the historic park and the different areas to explore.

But let's start with the basics: the entrance fee and opening hours.

Sukhothai Historical Park Entrance Feessukhothai historical park tickets

Central zone (main enclosure)

  • Adult: 200 THB
  • Bicycle: 10 THB

Other areas (except East which is free)

  • Adult: 120 THB
  • Bicycle: 10 THB
  • Car: 30 THB

Free entry in certain cases (special events, evening events).
Combined rate available on site (up to 400 THB for the entire park).

Sukhothai Historical Park Opening Hours
  • Open every day
    • 06am - 30:19pm (Monday to Friday and Sunday)
    • 06am - 30:21pm (Saturdays only)
  • Specific sectors:
    • Aranyik Zone : 08:00 am - 16:30 pm
    • Wat Si Chum & Wat Phra Phai Luang : 07:30 am - 17:30 pm
    • Park Office : 08:30 am - 16:30 pm

Areas of Sukhothai Historical Park

Let's clarify something right away. Sukhothai Historical Park is divided into five zones:

  • Central area
  • North zone
  • East Zone
  • South zone
  • West zone

A central zone, therefore, formed by the square of the old town (which is also called the village of Mueang Kao, which literally means "old town"), then 4 zones distributed around it according to the cardinal points.

old city wall sukhothai
Old city wall delimiting the central square of the historic park.

In total, the park includes: historical remains at more than 190 sites spread over an area of ​​70 km².

There used to be a package that allowed you to visit all the zones freely, but this was revoked a few years ago for reasons I don't know... Of all of them, only the East zone is free, but of course, it's also the least interesting.

So you will need target areas to visit. The two most interesting ones where the temples I talk about below are located are the central and northern areas.

La central zone includes the heart of the historic park, with the royal temple (Wat Mahathat) in particular. So that's where you should start. Then, head to the northern area to visit Wat Si Chum, and as a bonus Wat Phra Pai Luang not far from there.

iconic spot sukhothai historical park wat mahathat
Iconic photo spot at Wat Mahathat, the main temple in the central area.

Let us clarify for the prices that if you are visiting the areas other than by bikeThe surcharge varies. First, if you're on foot, there's no surcharge (which makes sense). If you arrive by scooter, you'll pay 20 Baht, and finally, 50 Baht if you arrive by car. However, the central area is inaccessible by scooter (except for the electric ones managed by the park, of course, see below) or by car.

Note that Many of the ruins are accessible for free, but for major temples in non-central areas, there will be an office to pay the entrance fee.

How to visit Sukhothai Historical Park

Even though everything is quite compact, it would take a while to visit everything on foot (although I have seen people do it in the central part). The ideal way is by bike.

Arriving at the main entrance, located at the end of the road arriving via the East entrance, you will see several opposite bicycle rental companiesYou will therefore be spoiled for choice.

count 30 Bahts for a day's bike rental.

on my sukhothai bike
Riding my bike!

Knowing that many guesthouses and hotels They provide them for their customers, so you might not even need to rent any. Note that at the south entrance, there are also bicycles and other vehicle options (see below), as well as the area with souvenir shops, restaurants, and restrooms.

If cycling is not an option for you (children not comfortable, fear of the heat, etc.), there is still a solution other than walking. You can indeed rent a type of electric tuk tuk (for 3 people including a driver) for 200 Baht per hour.

It's not very fast (like 15 km/h max, if that), but it allows you to visit the site effortlessly. However, I don't know if it's allowed to drive it in areas other than the power plant. There's also electric carts resembling old-fashioned cars (Made in Sukhothai!), but these are faster, They require an international license.

sukhothai electric cart
Electric cars made in Sukhothai.

Afterwards, it is possible to drive them yourself for the versions up 4 peopleAssuming you are in a group, you will need a chauffeur for longer vehicles. Count 400 Baht per hour for these vehicles.

The other solution finally being to take the kind of tourist "train" open (amusement park type) which can tour the site in 1 hour, these are only available from the East entrance. It only costs 40 Baht and you will be entitled to comments… but only in Thai 😉

Visiting Sukhothai by car

In case you are on a roadtrip through Thailand, you can move easily from one area to another by car and park on the parking spaces available at the entrance (they are free).

You will still need a bike for the central part which is no longer accessible by car (It was a few years ago… And it’s better that way!).

How much time to spend on sightseeing in Sukhothai?

If you are planning your stay, it may be useful to know how much time these visits will take you. In absolute terms, it all depends on your affinity with old stones and therefore does the essential suit you or is visiting as many areas as possible your challenge.

Finally, and logically, your time on site will depend on your locomotion option. If you are satisfied with the central part, on foot, allow about 3 hours.

bike ride sukhothai historical park - thailand

By bike, it can be done in 2 hours., in which case you can add the visit to the northern area, which also carries the 3-hour tour of the historic park.

If you are by car, you can add the west and south zones and not exceed 4 hours of visits, i.e. half a day.

Add to that some time to possibly visit the National Museum (located next to the East entrance) plus time to stop and eat and you shouldn't need to spend more than half a day there in all cases.

If you are on site on a Saturday, note that the historical park opens later until 21pm. This allows you to appreciate the illuminations of the temples at night and, good news, it's free! (entrance becomes free from 18pm).

sukhothai historical park at night - thailand

What are the main temples to see in Sukhothai?

To answer this question, let's review the main temples to see during your visit to Sukhothai. You will find places to pay for entry next to the East entrance and also to the South, after passing the National Museum (see map below).

If you have bicycles, don't forget to mention it (they will ask you anyway and tickets will be checked at the entrance).

The central area

The central area corresponds to the old walled town. This one was surrounded by a wall and a moat, traces of which can still be seen today. Start by heading left at the end of the alley if you arrive by the main entrance to the East and stop straight ahead if you arrive by the South entrance.

We will focus on the 3 main temples and one monument:

  • Wat Mahathat
  • Wat Si Sawai
  • Wat Sa Si
  • Ramkhamhaeng Monument

Wat Mahathat

The most important temple in SukhothaiIt adjoined the royal palace, of which nothing remains today. Upon arrival, you will see a group of structures with the mountain as a backdrop. If you are there at the right time of year, the basin in front will be filled with water, and even adorned with water lilies.

Wat MahathatThe temple, whose name translates as "Temple of the Great Relic" (and it is not the only one in Thailand with this name), was built at the very founding of the capital in the 13th century by Sri Indradthit, the first king of the Sukhothai kingdom. The temple was built according to the architectural concept of the Mandala, an ancient Hindu symbol symbolizing the forces of the universe.

overview wat mahathat historical park sukhothai
Overview of Wat Mahathat from the south entrance.

Although it was much smaller initially, it was subsequently enlarged and renovated several times by later kings. This is why several architectural styles can be admired there.

Indeed, among the numerous chedis (185 originally!) and various buildings comprising the temple, including the ubosot and 3 Mondops (housing statues of Buddhas), we find elements of Lanna, Sinhalese (Sri Lanka), Mon (in a style corresponding to the time of the kingdom of Hariphunchai) and the style specific to Sukhothai.

There you can admire bas-reliefs and stucco decorations. Many Buddha statues They mark the site, notably a whole series around the main stupa (chedi) dating from 1345. The latter is topped with a bud-shaped spire, symbolizing a closed lotus flower. It is a rare survivor of Hariponchai's Mon architecture, with a pyramidal structure and several floors, including niches housing sculptures.

If you look closely at one of them, you will see a Buddha with a seemingly effeminate appearance. It is a typical representation from the Sukhothai period and we must see an effect of movement there, because it represents the Buddha walking.

I will talk about it again later, but it was in this temple that the stele dating from 1292 was found with inscriptions using the first letters of the newly created Thai alphabet.

Wat Si Sawai

Located southwest of Wat Mahathat, this small temple is distinguished by its different architectureFor example, you'll notice a surrounding wall made of laterite instead of the usual red bricks. In the background, you can see three towers surrounded by sculptures, with the remains of columns and a building in front.
Wat Si Sawai was originally a Hindu temple, dedicated to Shiva. It is also the oldest on the site! The temple is believed to have been founded by the Khmers as early as the late 12th or early 13th century, shortly before the founding of the Sukhothai kingdom.


tree next to wat si sawai sukhothai

The 3 original towers are Khmer style (which are called prang and not chedi or stupa in this case) and remained unfinished. The site was later transformed into a Buddhist temple, which is why the main gate combines laterite with brick, added later.
Similarly, the covered halls (called viharns) which were in front of the 3 original towers are made of bricks and it is clear that this does not correspond to the original architecture.

Wat Sa Si

Wat Sa Si Temple is located a few hundred meters northwest of Wat Mahathat. It is a typical example of what would become Thai temple architecture. According to the texts of one of the stone inscriptions discovered in Sukhothai, Wat Sa Si was founded towards the end of the 14th century.

You will first pass a small chedi in front of which is a beautiful example of a walking Buddha. This is a posture called Vitarka mudra, symbolizing teaching and discussion. We then find there the main chedi, with a square base and bell-shaped typical of the Sinhalese style. In front was the ubosot (ordination hall) and opposite, placed on a small artificial island, a small viharn.

bridge leading to wat sa si sukhothai
chedi and walking buddha statue wat sa si sukhothai

Wat Sa Si has the particularity of being surrounded by water (a pond named Tra Phang Tra Kuan).

For the record, just after the bridge to cross to get there, you will see an avenue of trees on your left (while you will have the chedis in front of you). This was the road crossing!

In fact, before entering the Unesco World Heritage, the national road passed directly through the site from East to West. But the condition sine qua non to obtain this reward was to deflect it.

wat sa si historical park sukhothai - thailand
Wat Sa Si and its characteristic bell-shaped chedi.

tra phang tra kuan pond surrounding wat sa si sukhothai
The pond in the summer, filled with water lilies.

view of wat sa si and pond sukhothai historical park
View of the entire temple from across the pond.

Statue of King Ramkhamhaeng

We come to the monument to the glory of King Ramkhamhaeng who is considered the creator of the Thai alphabet. That's why he is depicted with a tablet in his right hand.

What is certain is that during his reign, he widely disseminated writing throughout his kingdom. The alphabet (which is alpha-syllabic) is depicted on the famous " Ramkamhaeng stele", discovered by Mongkut (future King Rama IV) some 600 years later. This stele represents a crucial testimony about life in Sukhothai at the time.

At the site of the Ramkhamhaeng statue, a copy of which can be seen on the right side after the first set of steps. The original is on display at the National Museum in Bangkok.

Thai people always show a lot of respect for previous monarchs who have particularly made the country evolve and who have shown real respect towards its people.

This is why you will most likely see them buying flower offerings from the small shop next door (which also has bottled water if it's time for you to refill).

Other temples

Heading northwest along the central section between Wat Si Sawai and Wat Sa Si, you will pass a nicely wooded areaIt's very pleasant for enjoying some shade if the heat becomes too intense. Whether you cut through the woods or follow the main path, you can pass by it. Wat Tra Phang Ngoen (which means " silver lake temple").

forested area sukhothai historical park - thailand

wat tra phang ngoen historical park sukhothai - thailand
Wat Tra Phang Ngoen and its chedi.

view coconut trees sukhothai historical park - thailand
Coconut trees in the historic park.

small island temple historical park sukhothai - thailand
Access to the small island.

wat mahathat from island historical park sukhothai - thailand
Wat Mahathat seen from the small island.

The latter is not of great interest as such, you will find there a chedi in the shape of a lotus bud and a sculpture on the side of a walking Buddha. On the other hand, the latter faces an artificial lake, where in the middle sits a small island with the ruin of a small temple on it.

This small island is very photogenic, because on one side you will have Wat Tra Phang Ngoen with the mountain in the background, and on the other you will be opposite Wat MahathatNext to it is a wooded area of ​​coconut trees. Birds can often be seen in this area.

On the way to the northern area, you can pass by the small San-Ta-Pha-Daeng sanctuary, another structure that we owe to the Khmers.

khmer temple san ta pha daeng sukhothai
Small Khmer temple San Ta Pha Daeng.

The northern zone

You will pass by some ruins that can be seen from the side of the road, including a chedi surrounded by elephant sculptures (Wat Sorasak), a common figure at the time.

wat sorasak sukhothai
Wat Sorasak and its elephants.

For this area, There are 2 notable temples :

  • Wat Phra Phai Luang
  • Wat Si Chum

Wat Phra Phai Luang

Just like Wat Si Sawai, you'll notice three towers that look strangely similar. That's normal. These are also prangs.because this temple, like Wat Si Sawai, dates back to the late 12th or early 13th century, before the founding of Sukhothai as capital.

For even if it wasn't yet the heart of the nascent kingdom, it was still an important outpost of the Khmer Empire. This temple was the center of the city before Sukhothai and by making the most important building of this period.

prangs at wat phra phai luang sukhothai
A whole prang and the remains of the other two in front of Wat Phra Phai Luang.

It is said to have been founded at the end of the rule of the Angkor Kingdom, under King Jayavarman VII, who had built some of the Most impressive monuments of Angkor, notably the Bayon Temple. Wat Phra Phai Luang was built by the Khmers as a Hindu temple, here dedicated to Vishnu.

Like Wat Si Sawai, It was later converted into a Buddhist temple.The rest is also quite damaged compared to other temples. Starting with the prangs, two out of three of which have burned down.

The central chedi is barely discernible in the Mon-style temple of Haripunchai. The latter was surrounded by a cloister beneath which numerous Buddha statues were lined up.

In the background, near the east entrance of the temple (the other being on the west side, near Wat Si Chum), one can see the remains of a mandapaOf some of the statues that surrounded it, one can make out one standing, another in front that was lying down, and others on the sides, also standing, of which only the feet remain today.

The area delimiting this large temple is a square surrounded by a 600-meter-long water-filled moat, its buildings aligned on an east-west axis. It should be noted that the added structures were built at different times (primarily the 14th and 15th centuries), The temple showcases the evolution of architecture and art in Sukhothai.It contains a mixture of different architectural styles such as Khmer, the style specific to Sukhothai, and even a style that preceded the one that became the reference during the Ayutthaya period.

Overall, this temple is considered less interesting because it's too ruined compared to others. For me, perhaps because it's less visited, resulting in a calmer atmosphere, and because it still boasts varied architecture with beautiful remains of sculptures and stucco, I... a little crush for this place. Not to mention that the latter, surrounded by a pond, is located next to a small temple, recent and still inhabited by monks.

Around the basin, one can discern the remains of an ancient wall, or failing that, small ruins of secondary temples. Certainly, because now excavated and restored, the site is surrounded by ancient terracotta kilns, the region having been renowned for its pottery production.

If this is your first temple in this area, remember that you will have to pay a new entrance fee of 100 Baht per person + bicycles if applicable.

Wat Si Chum

We end with one of the jewels of Sukhothai. It is an ancient temple dating back to the 13th century. Wat Si Chum is translated by " Bodhi Tree Temple" . Bodhi trees (also called pagoda fig or pipal) are found in many temples around Thailand, because it was under a tree of this species that the Buddha meditated to achieve Enlightenment in India.

alley leading to wat si chum sukhothai
The path leading to Wat Si Chum and its mango tree on the right.

You'll immediately see this large building at the end of an alley as you arrive at the parking lot. You'll probably notice a massive head visible between the bricks forming the entrance to this imposing structure, which is called a mondop.

In the absence of a Bodhi tree, it is above all under the shade of a giant mango tree that the mondop reunites, the latter will watch over Wat Si Chum from over 200 years. In front of the mondop are the remains of the viharn, which is much smaller. Next to it are the remains of a small prayer space with a seated Buddha statue displaying a rather striking smile.

Inside the mondop, superbly preserved despite having lost its roof over the years, you will be welcomed by the imposing statue of Buddha She sits at a height of 15 meters, gazing down at you with a slight, enigmatic smile. The statue, 11 meters wide, dominates the entire square. With these dimensions, it is the largest in SukhothaiHere too, Thais often come to pray.

With Wat Mahathat, it's for me the most beautiful temple or failing that, the one releasing the most emotions facing this image of Buddha staring at you.

big buddha wat si chum historical park sukhothai - thailand
The great Buddha of Wat Si Chum.

Like most important statues, it has its own name, here Phra Achana, which translates as " he who is not afraid"She is in one of the most classic poses that you will encounter many times in Thailand. Her right hand is resting on her knee (which is now covered in gold leaf), her legs are in the lotus position; this is called the Bhumisparsha mudra, which can be translated as " the call to the Earth to bear witness"

The site was extensively renovated in the 50s and has provided much insight into the origins of the kingdom. Indeed, an ancient stone inscription found in the mondop of Wat Si Chum provides information on the founding of the Sukhothai Kingdom.

The southern zone

Finally, in the South zone, it is Wat Chetuphon which is of the most importance. Dating from the 14th century, little remains today. Its main remaining structure is a mandapa, which was originally surrounded by four Buddhas in standing, sitting, reclining and walking postures, of which only half remain today (but without heads).

cows sukhothai historical park
Somewhere in the historic park.

If you go to this area, also take a look at the temple opposite, the Wat Chedi Si HonWith its laterite brick chedi, it has lovely remains of stucco sculptures on its square base, including figures of elephants.

The rest is made up of lots of small ruins scattered across the countryside.

The area is

Assuming you care to see at least one temple in each area, the only one with any appeal is Wat Chang LomLocated behind the Legendha Sukhothai hotel, this temple has a large bell-shaped chedi, surrounded by rather well-preserved elephant sculptures (yes, again).

The West Zone

In the West Zone, the only one worth it is Wat Saphan Hin. This small temple of which not much remains except a standing Buddha against a remnant of a wall, overlooks the hill and therefore faces (from afar) the historic park.

The rest will be just small ruins without much interest.

view from wat saphan hin sukhothai park
View from the ruins of Wat Saphan Hin.

 

standing buddha wat saphan hin sukhothai
The standing Buddha at Wat Saphan Hin.

When to go to Sukhothai

What is the best time to visit Sukhothai? To this I would tend to respond all year ! Forget the "but what about the monsoon?" aspect, because apart from August and September, you might still have some sun, even if only partially, during the day.

Furthermore, going there in July, for example, is a guarantee of very green nature, as opposed to January, for example, which is in high season, but where the vegetation will be yellow.

The best time, as for the whole of the northern and central part of Thailand, is the month of novemberThere, good weather is normally guaranteed, water lilies and lotus flowers galore and trees still very green.

sukhothai historical park in november
The small island in the middle of the park in November, note how green it is!
sukhothai historical park in january
The same spot barely 2 months later in January, much duller (and gray on that day too...)

How to get to Sukhothai?

By car

From Bangkok, there are 2 choices, either from the west or from the east. In both cases, take road no. 32 in direction of Nakhon Sawan. Then the choice is offered.
Either you take direction Tak / Kamphaeng Phet and continue on Route No. 1. You will then need to turn right onto Route 101 passing through Kamphaeng Phet.

The other choice is to take direction Phitsanulok continuing on Route 117 after Nakhon Sawan, then towards Sukhothai.

Knowing that when you see the signs indicating Sukhothai, this refers to the new city and not the historical park, but the latter is also indicated when arriving towards the new city.

By bus

From Bangkok, head to Mo Chit North Bus Terminal for Sukhothai, Allow 7 hours for travel time price around 350 Bahts (there is a direct bus from Khao San which costs 700 Baht). You will also find buses to get there from Chiang Mai or Lampang for example.
Normally, by default, buses go to the New Town terminal. Keep in mind that you'll find local buses running between the New Town and the Historical Park anyway.
But from the historical park (Mueang Kao), it is possible to leave directly for Bangkok or Chiang Mai via Wintour bus station. However, in this case it is necessary to book at least one day in advance.

wintour sukhothai bus schedule
Bus timetable at Wintour station in Mueang Kao, next to the historical park.

By train

The popular solution as the train tends to attract tourists wanting a more local experience. To do this, head to Hua Lamphong if you are leaving from Bangkok.

The nearest train station to Sukhothai is in Phitsanulok and will therefore be the destination to request when you take your tickets (which you can book via the search tool below). From Phitsanulok Station, you will have a regular service of bus serving Sukhothai city, 60 km away.
count 160 Baht per person in 2nd class for a journey of approximately 6 hours. You can check the timetables and prices on the official website here (English)

By plane

Another option for those in a hurry. Sukhothai has a small airport. You have daily flights thanks to Bangkok Airways, 1 in the morning and 2 in the afternoon. Allow 1 hour flight for Bangkok – Sukhothai plus at least half an hour to reach the city, the airport being 30 km north of New Sukhothai.

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Where to stay in Sukhothai: the city VS Muang Kao

It is important to clarify one point here. Sukhothai, the new city, should not be confused with the area near the historical park, sometimes referred to as "Old Sukhothai," or its Thai equivalent "Muang Kao," meaning "old town." Here, it designates the name of the village located partly within the walls of the old city, which form the central square.

By default, your searches might suggest hotel names actually located in the city, but the city is 12 km from the historical site. It's not a terrible distance, but it's still something.

After that don't worry too much either, there is obviously a shuttle bus that runs between New Sukhothai and Old Sukhothai so it is quite easy to get to the historical park from the city and vice versa.

shuttle between historical park and new sukhothai
Plus it’s folkloric!

Hotel suggestion in Sukhothai (the city)

I once happened to try a hotel in the city, being a carriage, it doesn't bother me that much and the other reason being that at that time, the other hotels where I usually go were either full or more expensive, which can also play a role in the choice of accommodation (the transport between the two areas must be taken into account however).

Midtown Sukhothai Resort

Note: 9 / 10

Budget: from 900 Bahts

Located near the main thoroughfare, the hotel is on a quiet side street. Its layout is somewhat unusual, as the reception is next to an apartment building constructed on the same plot of land, while the hotel itself is a separate building just a little further away.

After that it remains modern, with a swimming pool, and the included breakfast does the job even if it's a bit light.

Hotel suggestions in Muang Kao

If you choose to stay overnight, you'll be spoiled for choice, but here too, there are several distinct areas. There are quite a few hotels located along the road before reaching the historic park area marked by the square, those within the central square itself, and a few hotels in a slightly more secluded spot on a road heading south.

I'll start by giving you two more convenient addresses since they're in the heart of the village.

Oldtown Boutique House

Note: 9,6 / 10

Budget: from 800 Bahts

A reliable choice, this small, family-run guesthouse is located very close to the entrance of the historical park. The rooms are simple, without windows, but since it's usually just a short stay of one or two nights, they're perfectly adequate, and at this price, what more could you ask for?

Sukhothai Garden

Note: 9,1 / 10

Budget: from 1,200 Baht

An alternative to the Old Town, admittedly more expensive, but at least there are bicycles available. I had a large room to myself with two beds, but if you're traveling as a family, it's a good option and ideally located, slightly set back from the main street.

Moving on to the next area, away from the village. This was generally my preferred choice, partly for the peace and quiet, but also because practically all the hotels in this area offer excellent value for money. The only downside is that there are no more restaurant options in this area since the only decent one closed down… This means you have to go back towards the village, about 1 km away (but it's easy enough by bike, especially since most places provide them for free).

As I've tried quite a few (there's, for example, the Thai Thai Sukhothai Resort and Vieng Tawan, from the same owner or even the Orchid Hibiscus Guest House(the worst of the whole area in my experience), I'm only giving you here the two best in my opinion, from this unique corner.

Scent of Sukhothai

Note: 9 / 10

Budget: from 1,200 Baht

In this price range, it's one of the best hotels you'll find in Sukhothai. Located in the same area as the one mentioned previously, it offers a pleasant setting with rooms arranged around a garden, at the end of which is a lovely swimming pool.

Breakfast is included and is decent, and there's also the option of getting a massage on-site (either in the small dedicated lounge or in your room). The room is quite comfortable and offers a small private terrace for relaxing.

Sawasdee Sukhothai Resort

Note: 9,4 / 10

Budget: from 1,200 Baht

We're moving up a notch here; this is the prettiest one, located in the same area as the previous ones. It also offers a pleasant setting with a garden, but this one is larger and very well maintained. The rooms are in separate bungalows, each with its own small terrace.

Next to the reception is the breakfast restaurant and opposite, the small swimming pool for relaxing and refreshing.

Research tool

True to form, I found the hotels listed above on Agoda, so I'm making the tool available to you so you can find what you're looking for if my list doesn't suit you:

Where to eat in Sukhothai

If you are staying at one of the recommended hotels in Muang Kao, it is unfortunately no longer possible to eat at the Sukhothai Kitchen Restaurant, located opposite the Hotel Le Charme, as it has closed… You will need to go to the main street near the historical park, where you will find the Baitong Thai Food Restaurant, market side, and the King Rak on the other side.

If you choose to stay in town, you have a recommended little restaurant not far from the hotel called Poo Restaurant (a name that will make English speakers smile).

dishes at Poo Restaurant Sukhothai Thailand
My selection of the day at Poo Restaurant.

Things to see around Sukhothai

Since I tend to write too much rather than too little, here are a few destinations around Sukhothai that are worth a visit. This chapter provides you with all the essential information about the attractions in this region. It also allows you to extend your exploration if you have the desire and the time.

Ramkhamhaeng National Park

The national park is located south of Sukhothai Historical Park. If you want to combine a short nature walk with your cultural visit to the ancient capital, this is the place to go.

ramkhamhaeng na national park - sukhothai - thailand
The headquarters at the entrance to the national park.

It is not the most beautiful of national parks certainly, but it has its charm. It is quite easy to access even if you are not a big walker. But to reach its summit (at 1m altitude), count all the same 200 hours, including stops to see the points of attractions.

  • Tropical forest along a small stream
  • About halfway there you will have a nice view of the valley below.
  • At 2/3 of the climb, you will come across a magnificent Banyan tree, with its multiple roots and surrounded by the forest, a bewitching effect.
  • At the top, viewpoint over the valley

Most people go there to sleep at its summit in winter and see the sea of ​​clouds before sunrise.

banyan tree ramkhamhaeng national park - sukhothai - thailand
The magnificent Banyan tree.

camping ramkhamhaeng national park - sukhothai - thailand
The campsite at the top of Ramkhamhaeng National Park.

viewpoint ramkhamhaeng national park - sukhothai - thailand

For all information regarding access to the mountain summit and to learn more about this place:

→ I invite you to read my article dedicated to Ramkhamhaeng National Park.

Phitsanulok

This is probably the city you'll pass through to reach the Sukhothai Historical Park. Whether by train (the most common option) or even by bus, passing through Phitsanulok is practically mandatory. This ancient city was the most important in the eastern part of the Sukhothai kingdom, and you'll find some ruins dating back to that era there as well.

I can mention the old chedi with its unusual shape (more tubular than bell-shaped) at Wat Aranyik and the old chedi at Wat Chedi Yod Thong, a temple that is still active. Subsequently, Phitsanulok would even be elevated to the status of capital in 1463, when the king of Ayutthaya, Borommatrailokanat, who reigned at that time, wanted to better control the northern borders, which were then plagued by the neighboring kingdom of Lanna (which includes Chiang Mai/Chiang Rai, among others, as a reminder).

It was during this reign that two important temples in the city were built, the Wat Ratchaburana and  Wat Nang PhayaThis temple is located next to another temple that contributes to Phitsanulok's fame. Wat Phra Si Rattana MahathatIt dates from the 15th century and owes its fame to the Buddha statue that sits enthroned at the back of its superb hall, all adorned with gilding.

interior of wat phra sri rattana mahathat phitsanulok
The interior of Wat Phra Sri Rattana Mahathat in Phitsanulok.

called Chinnarat Buddha, it is considered the most revered after that of Wat Phra Kaeo in BangkokIt symbolizes the victory of Sukhothai over the Khmers of Angkor and he can be recognized by the golden aura that surrounds his head and shoulders.

In addition to this statue, you can see beautiful doors covered with mother-of-pearl and ruins in the back part of the temple. As an anecdote, Phitsanulok was ravaged by a fire in 1960. The Wat Phra Si Rattana Mahathat is the only temple that escaped the flames.

To find out more about what to see and do in this city:

→ I invite you to read my article dedicated to Phitsanulok.

Si Satchanalai and Kamphaeng Phet

About an hour from Sukhothai, you have not one but two other historical parks that you can also visit! I won't go into more detail here because I also have dedicated articles for each of these sites, which I've included in the box at the end of this article.

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