Phnom Penh: the essentials to discover in the Cambodian capital

If I knew Siem Reap and the Angkor temples in Cambodia, I didn't know anything else. So when the opportunity arose to return to Cambodia, you can imagine that I had to go somewhere other than Siem Reap. The choice fell on the country's capital, Phnom Penh. After all, it's a shame to visit a country without its capital, right? In my case, for timing reasons, but also for budgetary reasons, I gave myself only one day to visit the essentials of Phnom Penh, and here's how I did it.

A day in Phnom Penh, is it possible?

I had still done my scouting beforehand and suspected that it was feasible (otherwise I would probably have given up…) and the advantage of Phnom Penh is that the main sites of interest are all grouped together in one part of the center, with the exception of the S21 prison (Tuol Sleng) a little out of the way (and even then).

As a result, I had planned to do everything on foot. This was without knowing the situation on site, namely the numerous tuk tuks, known locally as "moto-dop", which constantly ask you to take you even 500 m from where you are...

I took a moto-dop straight out of the airport, for a fixed rate of $8, and went to my hotel (The Artist Residence).

In order, this was what it was: program of the day :

– National Museum
– Royal Palace
– Wat Phnom
– Central Market (Phsar Thmei)
– Tuol Sleng Museum (S-21 prison)
– Wat Ounalom

The National Museum of Phnom Penh

The museum was just down the street from my hotel, so within 5 minutes I was already starting my tours for the day. The museum was built during French Indochina, as the original premises, located in the royal palace and lent by King Sisowath at the beginning of the creation of a Cambodian museum, quickly became too small to cope with the influx of new pieces and collections.

The buildings respect theKhmer architecture, note that photos are not allowed inside (except in the outside courtyard, in fact only the covered areas are forbidden for photos), which will not prevent me from coming across a guy kindly ignoring the instructions...

Mainly, there are sculptures recovered from the various excavation sites and temples of Angkor throughout Cambodia as well as some other pieces such as jewelry, royal objects, etc.

I'm not a fan of museums, but this one is still interesting, some of the statues are just impressive and I ended up spending a good hour there before going to the Palais Royal, located about 200 m away.

The Royal Palace of Phnom Penh

Arriving at the Royal Palace grounds, I laughed inwardly, outwardly, I laughed bitterly when a guy pulled the same trick on me as in Bangkok, the scam of "come by tuk tuk, the Palace is closed". I had the nerve to tell him that I know this "trick" and that it is not good to lie, knowing that the complex is indeed open, he had the nerve to tell me in return " No, I'm not a liar!"He's lucky I didn't run into him again after my visit...

Many compare this palace to the one in Bangkok, but apart from the fact that they are both Royal Palaces, I think the comparison is irrelevant. The one in Bangkok is clearly more impressive (Although significantly more expensive too… and more crowded, but hey you can’t have everything…)

I think in front of a large square, itself facing the river crossing the city. I pay the entrance fee and arrive in the main courtyard. Everything is renovated (or even in progress like the Napoleon house, a building offered by France), the garden is well maintained and is composed of tropical plants, but there are few trees and shade (And on a day like that, it is therefore a real scorcher).

I almost only meet Thais there. I take a look in the throne room, we can't go inside or take pictures and so I don't linger too long. I then go into the second courtyard where the silver pagoda is located.

The pagoda is a royal temple, also called Wat Preah Keo, yes yes, like the one in Bangkok, hence the comparison. Inside, there are lots of small statues of Buddhas as well as one in Baccarat crystal, similar to the Emerald Buddha in Bangkok.

In front of the pagoda is a statue of King Norodom I on horseback and all around on the walls of the enclosure one can admire a gallery with frescoes, unfortunately poorly maintained and the humidity has done its work of destruction, eating away at least a third of the lower part in places.

In this same courtyard there is a small mound with a sort of chapel as well as stupas. Well, that's done and seen. On the way out I can't help but be hailed by a tuk tuk driver. A little taken pity on me and because he was nice to me, I finally agree to play the "lazy" game for the rest of the afternoon and take a tuk tuk (for $6 in the afternoon), direction Wat Phnom, only 2 km away.

Wat Phnom: Up on the hill

As the title suggests this small temple is located on a small hill that also serves as a roundabout. There is no viewpoint, as it is surrounded by trees, the roundabout also being a small public garden.

When I arrive, I go straight up the stairs, guarded by 2 large Nagas, the mythological serpent. At the top I come across some hilarious kids posing for photos. There aren't many tourists, just me and another girl. In the temple there is a seated Buddha and some big yellow candles.

Time to go around the top and take a look at the big clock planted there on the lawn, observe a little the relaxing Cambodians and the street vendors and I left for my next spot, the central market.

Phsar Thmei, the central market of Phnom Penh

For the record, the word phsar is derived from the word bazaar, itself from Persia. Built in the 30s to cope with the growing development of Phnom Penh, this building with its large 26 m dome was one of the largest in Asia at the time.

Phnom Penh central market.

Previously dirty brown, It has been recently renovated and it is now all beautiful all yellow and white. Around the central dome are 4 wings of 19 m long each. You can find a bit of everything there with areas sometimes grouping the market of fruits and vegetables, fish and meat, clothes, bags and others. The central part being mainly "luxury" products (watches and jewelry) fiercely guarded by guards with shotguns.

Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum

This former high school, made up of four buildings, became sadly famous following its use, under the bloody Khmer Rouge regime, as a prison and place of torture.

It was for me the highlight of this visit to Phnom Penh. I had heard so much about it that finding myself there clearly left me not indifferent (who can be??).

As I had quite a bit to say about this place, I invite you to read the full article.

I could have completed the visit with the site and Choeung Ek Memorial, commonly called the "Killing Fields", where many prisoners were executed (a real mass grave was discovered there). It is about ten kilometers south of the genocide museum.

It wasn't so much time that I was short of, but my tight budget that pushed me to return to the hotel for a break.

I was walking past the independence monument and so I left my tuk tuk once in front of my guesthouse and took a shower because the heat was really intense.

Bonus: Wat Ounalom

I had passed by it on my way between the Royal Palace and Wat Phnom, as it was close to my hotel and I had some time left, I decided to go and have a look, but it is clearly not what you could call unmissable. I walked along the quay bordering the river to get there. I came across joggers despite the stifling heat.

Le Wat Ounalom is a temple founded in the 15th century, but, damaged by the Khmer Rouge, it seems quite insignificant today. Apart from a superb wooden sculpture being produced in front of one of the temple buildings, not much caught my attention here, except the height on which these buildings stand because everything is raised.

A bit of street art in the streets of Phnom Penh

As I was leaving the temple I came across another tuk tuk, he spoke pretty good French. This time, there was no question of taking one, as friendly as he was, I had barely 500 m to my hotel. He explained to me that for the last 2 or 3 years, there had been an increase in the number of tuk tuk drivers, I confirmed my impression, "there are too many of you compared to the number of tourists". He was "understanding" towards me and let me take my little walk.

But this short exchange led me to think about supply and demand. Why so many tuk tuks if there aren't enough tourists? Wanting to "share the cake" too much is detrimental to everyone, including the tourists who find themselves accosted every two minutes...

Continuing my little stroll, I came across French tourists with whom I chatted briefly before heading a little further into a small street with street art. This concluded this day of visiting Phnom Penh.

Where to stay in Phnom Penh

I mentioned it at the beginning of the article, I was staying at The Artist Residence). The latter had the advantage of being located in the heart of the historic part of the city, right in front of the National Museum and only 500 m from the Royal Palace. Ideal therefore for exploring part of the capital's essentials on foot.

In addition, I was seduced by the photos of the rooms, which I found modern and original with the mezzanine bed [EDIT: the hotel is still there, but it seems that the rooms are different]

To book at The Artist Residence

Review: What to think of Phnom Penh?

My first impression was " but what motorcycles!", then afterwards I just found that the city had the typical air of a large city in Southeast Asia, namely a little chaotic (there are electric wires everywhere), but it is a city that is rather wooded, and because of the Indochina period, Phnom Penh keeps a street level organization that is much better than a sprawling city like Bangkok.

It also has some notable buildings, not to mention the many restaurants, often offering good European dishes, I have no doubt that Many expats like it there. Even if it is difficult to judge on a single day, my overall feeling confirms that I definitely prefer Bangkok. I'm not necessarily objective since it's been my city for over a decade, but the Thai capital seems more vibrant, more modern and cleaner, with a general impression of being able to do more things there.

Afterwards I am realistic, it is very bad of me to judge a city on a single day of exploration, what is more, knowing that it now dates back a few years, Phnom has certainly evolved since then and there is no doubt that you will be able to enjoy discovering it for a day too (or more if you like).

Have you visited Phnom Penh? If so, what did you think of it? Maybe you have some suggestions for visits?