While I was familiar with Siem Reap and the temples of Angkor in Cambodia , I knew nothing else. So when the opportunity arose to return to Cambodia, you can imagine I had to explore beyond Siem Reap. I chose the country's capital, Phnom Penh . After all, it would be a shame to visit a country without seeing its capital, wouldn't it? In my case, due to time constraints and budget limitations, I only had one day to see the highlights of Phnom Penh , and here's how I did it.
A day in Phnom Penh, is it possible?
I had still done my scouting beforehand and suspected that it was feasible (otherwise I would probably have given up…) and the advantage of Phnom Penh is that the main sites of interest are all grouped together in one part of the center, with the exception of the S21 prison (Tuol Sleng) a little out of the way (and even then).
As a result, I had planned to do everything on foot . This was without knowing the situation on the ground, namely the numerous tuk-tuks, known locally as "moto-dop," which constantly solicit you to take you even 500 meters from where you are…
I took a moto-dop straight out of the airport, for a fixed rate of $8, and went to my hotel (The Artist Residence).
Here is today's program , in order :
– National Museum
– Royal Palace
– Wat Phnom
– Central Market (Phsar Thmei)
– Tuol Sleng Museum (S-21 prison)
– Wat Ounalom
The National Museum of Phnom Penh
The museum was just down the street from my hotel, so within 5 minutes I was already starting my tours for the day. The museum was built during French Indochina, as the original premises, located in the royal palace and lent by King Sisowath at the beginning of the creation of a Cambodian museum, quickly became too small to cope with the influx of new pieces and collections.
The buildings respect Khmer architecture ; note that photos are not allowed inside (except in the outer courtyard; in fact, only the covered areas are off-limits to photography), which won't stop me from running into some guy politely ignoring the rule…
Mainly, there are sculptures recovered from the various excavation sites and temples of Angkor throughout Cambodia as well as some other pieces such as jewelry, royal objects, etc.
I'm not a fan of museums, but this one is still interesting, some of the statues are just impressive and I ended up spending a good hour there before going to the Palais Royal, located about 200 m away.
The Royal Palace of Phnom Penh
As I approached the grounds of the Royal Palace, I chuckled to myself, but outwardly, I was laughing nervously when a guy pulled the same trick on me as in Bangkok, the "come by tuk tuk, the Palace is closed" scam.
I tried to tell him I knew this "trick" and that lying wasn't right, knowing the complex was indeed open, but he had the nerve to reply, " No, I'm not a liar! " He's lucky I didn't run into him again after my visit…
Many compare this palace to the one in Bangkok, but aside from the fact that they are both Royal Palaces, I don't think the comparison is valid. The one in Bangkok is clearly more impressive (even if it's also significantly more expensive… and more crowded, but hey, you can't have everything…)
I walk past a large square, itself facing the river that runs through the city. I pay the entrance fee and arrive in the main courtyard. Everything is renovated (or even under renovation, like the Napoleon house, a building gifted by France), the garden is well maintained and is composed of tropical plants, but there are few trees and little shade (and on a day like this, it's therefore a real scorcher).
I see almost exclusively Thais there. I glance into the throne room , but it's not possible to go inside or take photos, so I don't linger too long. I then move on to the second courtyard where the Silver Pagoda is located.
The pagoda is a royal temple, also called Wat Preah Keo , yes, just like the one in Bangkok, hence the comparison. Inside, there are many small Buddha statues as well as one made of Baccarat crystal, similar to the Emerald Buddha in Bangkok.
Opposite the pagoda is a statue on horseback of King Norodom I and all around on the walls of the enclosure, one can admire a gallery with frescoes , unfortunately poorly maintained and humidity has done its work of destruction, eating away at least a third of the lower part in places.
In the same courtyard there is a small mound with a sort of chapel and some stupas. Well, that's done and seen.
As I was leaving, I couldn't help but be hailed by a tuk-tuk driver.
Feeling a bit sorry for him and because I liked him, I finally agreed to play it cool for the rest of the afternoon and took a tuk tuk (for $6 in the afternoon) to Wat Phnom, just 2 km away.
Wat Phnom: Up on the hill
As the title suggests this small temple is located on a small hill that also serves as a roundabout. There is no viewpoint, as it is surrounded by trees, the roundabout also being a small public garden.
Upon arriving, I immediately climbed the stairs, guarded by two large Nagas , the mythological serpent. At the top, I passed some laughing children posing for photos. There weren't many tourists, just me and another girl. Inside the temple were a seated Buddha and large yellow candles.
I take the time to walk around the top, glance at the large clock planted there on the grass, observe the Cambodians relaxing and the street vendors, then I head off towards my next spot, the central market.
Phsar Thmei, the central market of Phnom Penh
As an interesting side note, the word "phsar" is derived from the word "bazaar ," itself originating from Persian. Built in the 30s to cope with the growing development of Phnom Penh, this building with its large 26-meter dome was one of the largest in Asia at the time.
Previously a grimy brown, it was recently renovated and is now gleaming yellow and white. Around the central dome are four wings, each 19 meters long. They offer a little bit of everything, with areas housing the fruit and vegetable market, fish and meat, clothing, bags, and other goods. The central section is primarily dedicated to "luxury" items (watches and jewelry), fiercely guarded by men with shotguns.
Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum
This former high school, consisting of 4 buildings, became infamous following its use, under the bloody Khmer Rouge regime, as a prison and place of torture.
For me, this was the highlight of my visit to Phnom Penh. I had heard so much about it that being there clearly made me feel something (who could??).
Since I had quite a bit to say about this place, I invite you to read the full article.
I could have complemented the visit with a trip to the Choeung Ek site and memorial , commonly known as the "Killing Fields," where many prisoners were executed (a veritable mass grave was discovered there). It's about ten kilometers south of the Genocide Museum.
It wasn't so much time that I was short of, but my tight budget that pushed me to return to the hotel for a break.
I was passing by the Independence Monument and so I left my tuk-tuk once I was in front of my guesthouse and took a shower because the heat was really intense.
Bonus: Wat Ounalom
I had passed by it on my way between the Royal Palace and Wat Phnom, as it was close to my hotel and I had some time left, I decided to go and have a look, but it is clearly not what you could call unmissable. I walked along the quay bordering the river to get there. I came across joggers despite the stifling heat.
Wat Ounalom is a temple founded in the 15th century, but, damaged by the Khmer Rouge, it now appears rather unremarkable. Apart from a superb wooden sculpture being created in front of one of the temple buildings, not much caught my attention here, except for the height on which these structures stand, as everything is elevated.
A bit of street art in the streets of Phnom Penh
As I was leaving the temple I came across another tuk tuk, he spoke pretty good French. This time, there was no question of taking one, as friendly as he was, I had barely 500 m to my hotel. He explained to me that for the last 2 or 3 years, there had been an increase in the number of tuk tuk drivers, I confirmed my impression, "there are too many of you compared to the number of tourists". He was "understanding" towards me and let me take my little walk.
But this short exchange led me to think about supply and demand. Why so many tuk tuks if there aren't enough tourists? Wanting to "share the cake" too much is detrimental to everyone, including the tourists who find themselves accosted every two minutes...
Continuing my stroll, I came across some French tourists with whom I chatted briefly before venturing a little further down a small street adorned with street art . That concluded my day of sightseeing in Phnom Penh.
Where to stay in Phnom Penh
I mentioned it at the beginning of the article, I was staying at The Artist Residence). The latter had the advantage of being located in the heart of the historic part of the city, right in front of the National Museum and only 500 m from the Royal Palace. Ideal therefore for exploring part of the capital's essentials on foot.
In addition, I was seduced by the photos of the rooms, which I found modern and original with the mezzanine bed [EDIT: the hotel is still there, but it seems that the rooms are different]
To book at The Artist Residence
Review: What to think of Phnom Penh?
My first impression was, " So many motorcycles! " Then I simply found that the city had the typical feel of a large Southeast Asian city, namely a bit chaotic (look, electrical wires everywhere). However, it's a rather wooded city, and due to the Indochina period, Phnom Penh maintains a street layout that is much better organized than a sprawling metropolis like Bangkok.
It also boasts some notable buildings, not to mention the numerous restaurants, often offering good European cuisine; I have no doubt that many expats enjoy it . While it's difficult to judge based on just one day, my overall impression confirms that I much prefer Bangkok . I'm not necessarily objective since it's been my city for over a decade, but the Thai capital seems more vibrant, more modern, and cleaner, with a general feeling that there's more to do there.
Afterwards I am realistic, it is very bad of me to judge a city on a single day of exploration, what is more, knowing that it now dates back a few years, Phnom has certainly evolved since then and there is no doubt that you will be able to enjoy discovering it for a day too (or more if you like).
Have you visited Phnom Penh? If so, what did you think of it? Maybe you have some suggestions for visits?
