Thailand Si Satchanalai Historical Park, Sukhothai's "little sister" Northern Provinces, And Satchanalai, Travel to Thailand 4.7 (9)If Satchanalai is an ancient city founded in 1250, 60 km north of Sukhothai, the capital at the time. The city quickly became an important place because it housed the crown prince. It developed mainly between the 13th and 14th centuries, traces of which can be found today in the form of several temple ruins, spread over an area of 7 km². This ensemble forms a listed site Unesco World Heritage since 1991.Although close to the Sukhothai Historical Park, Si Satchanalai is much less visited than its sister, just like the other historical site in this region, Kamphaeng Phet, located further south. If you like historical sites, it is possible to combine a visit to the Sukhothai Historical Park in the morning and go to Si Satchanalai in the afternoon. Summary hide 1- History of Si Satchanalai, in brief 2- The main ruins of Si Satchanalai and Chaliang Practical information Wat Phra Si Rattana Mahathat (Chaliang) The secondary temples of Chaliang Wat Nang Phaya Wat Chedi Chet Thaeo What Chang Lom The hill temples: Wat Khao Suwankhiri and Wat Khao Pahnom Phloeng 3- The ancient pottery kilns of Thuriang 4- The other ruins of Si Satchanalai 5- The city of Si Satchanalai 6- How to get to Si Satchanalai from Sukhothai 7- Where to sleep in Si Satchanalai Chanalai Resort Sisatchanalai Heritage Resort 1- History of Si Satchanalai, in briefBefore becoming the city of Si Satchanalai, it was a small town called Chaliang that emerged on the banks of the Yom River in the 12th century. Located at the gates of the Khmer Empire, Chaliang was a prosperous little town.It was only after the establishment of Sukhothai as the capital of the Thai kingdom nascent, that the city of Si Satchanalai was established in 1250, not far west of Chaliang. It was the second center of Sukhothai, a bit like a border town, because further up, one arrived in the domain of the Lanna kingdom. So, to sum up, it was a rather important city at its peak.As Sukhothai declined and the Ayutthaya Kingdom grew in importance, Si Satchanalai continued to maintain its commercial and industrial role in the region.Its control then swung between the powers in place, the Lanna kingdom in the north and Ayutthaya in the center. Its fall was the result of the destruction by the Burmese army landing from Lampang at the end of the 18th century, shortly before the destruction in the wake of Ayutthaya, leaving behind them a field of ruins.2- The main ruins of Si Satchanalai and ChaliangPractical informationThe entrance fee to the historic park is 100 baht by area (Chaliang being distinct from Si Satchanalai).Open daily from 8:00AM to 17PM.Si Satchanalai, like Sukhothai, can be visited on foot or by bike. Count 30 baht for bicycle rental. You will find them next to the parking lot next to reception.Hint: If you are passing through quickly and do not intend to see everything anyway, show up around 16-16:30 p.m., you can still take a look because entry may then be free because there will be no one left at the ticket office, and you can still enjoy it until 17:30 p.m. without difficulty 😉A small road marking the historical park of Si Satchanalai.Wat Phra Si Rattana Mahathat (Chaliang)Probably the oldest and most important ruin in Chaliang. If the name rings a bell, it's because there is a temple of the same name in Lopburi and the term Wat Mahathat is often found in Thailand since it designates temples having or still housing important relics of Buddha.Its construction dates back to the end of the 12th century., during the reign of Jayavarman VII, when Chaliang was still part of the great Khmer empire.It is therefore a structure which takes on its characteristics. Khmer architecture set particularly recognizable by its surrounding wall in large block of laterite. The large prang having been redesigned under the Ayutthaya period in a more Thai style, although itself copying the Khmer style (defined as Gopura). As a reminder since already mentioned on my site, the term prang refers precisely to this architectural style in particular, otherwise we locally use the generic term chedi for the bell-shaped towers and in the broader sense, we refer to "pagodas".Another special feature is the sculpture adorning the eastern entrance of the complex, where you will see a point decorated with 4 heads of Brahma as well as bas-reliefs. In what remains of the main building, quite well preserved for such an old temple, one can still admire the seated Buddha statue located there. The inside of the prang can also be accessed.Behind the latter, there are the remains of a large stupa (Sri Lankan style chedi, don't worry, I plan to make a page summarizing the vocabularies because I know it can be confusing) and another Buddha statue, standing this time, with the remains of a secondary building. Overall The site of Wat Phra Si Rattana Mahathat is well maintained and as such, if the ruin has been kept as it is, the temple is still active since there is a more recent building attached to it.Behind the temple flows the Yom River, which forms a loop and also ends up in front of it, giving the impression of being on an island (or failing that, a peninsula). Note that it is possible to reach the village opposite by crossing a suspension bridge.The secondary temples of ChaliangNearby, before arriving at Wat Phra Si Rattana Mahathat (วัดพระศรีรัตนมหาธาตุ), you will walk along the old wall (or what remains of it) of Chaliang on your left, then you will come across 2 small temples which are worth a look.First of all the Wat Chom Chuen (วัดชมชื่น), associated with a small museum that includes an excavation site. No fewer than 15 skeletons were found there and evidence indicating a human presence in these places from the 4th century and more widely during the so-called Dvarati period, between the 6th and 11th.View of Wat Chom Chuen and its mandop.Then you have the little one Wat Chan Chao (also seen spelled Wat Jan Jao), with its superb Khmer prang. In this small temple, one can also see a mondop, a shelter used to contain a statue of Buddha, here, standing.Wat Chao Chan under the vegetation.The remains of the statue in the mondop adjoining the prang of Wat Chao Chan.Continuing towards Wat Phra Si Rattana Mahathat, you will come across the Wat Khok Singkharam (วัดโคกสิงคาราม) whose southern enclosure wall marked the boundary of the city of Chaliang. It is rather well preserved because it still has sections of walls still standing and one can still see its three joined chedis which are not without recalling on a smaller scale the three chedis of the Wat Phra Si Sanphet Royal Temple in Ayutthaya.To tell the truth, it always seems strange to me to see vestiges of the past simply enthroned like that at the side of a road, crossing what is today a simple small village. I find that it gives a particular aura to the place.Wat Nang PhayaOnce you have gone around the temples of Chaliang, you can reach the main area. By the way, a small note to point out that Chaliang and the main site of Si Satchanalai are roughly 3 km apart from each other. After paying the tickets at the reception center, where you can also eat and drink, as well as rent bikes, continue on the path until you pass between the walls of the old city. Turn right and you will come across your first ruins shortly after, the Wat Nang Phaya (วัดนางพญา), meaning the queen's temple.The whole thing looks quite beautiful under the shade of its magnificent century-old trees, but its particularity is above all that it has preserved the bas-reliefs, which decorated all the exterior facades of the vihara, the main prayer hall.This gives a good idea of the decoration that adorned the facade.Before reaching the central area, you will pass by the Wat Suan Kaeo Uthayan Yai (วัดสวนแก้วอุทยานใหญ่) of which not much remains except for the remains of the columns which supported the roof and the remains of its bell-shaped chedi of which only its base can be seen.There is also his little brother in the corner, the Wat Suan Kaeo Uthayan Noi (วัดสวนแก้วอุทยานน้อย) which often goes unnoticed.Wat Suan Kaeo Uthayan Yai.Wat Suan Kaeo Uthayan Noi.Wat Chedi Chet ThaeoIn the central area of the historical site, you will find the two main ruins of Si Satchanalai. On the left, if you come from Wat Nang Phaya, you will see the Wat Chedi Chet Thaeo (วัดเจดีย์เจ็ดแถว, spelled Wat Chedi Chet Thaew on Google Maps) whose name simply means: the 7 rows of stupas.Overview of Wat Chedi Chet Thaeo.Needless to say, there is no shortage of this in this imposing temple, which has no fewer than 32 pagodas and which, by its size and its protective surrounding wall, indicates a probable royal status.At the entrance, you will certainly notice its Buddha statue with the protective Naga around it, superbly preserved. If you are always observant, and have visited Sukhothai before, you will notice that the central chedi with its lotus-shaped tip looks exactly like that of Wat Mahathat, the main temple of Sukhothai Historical Park.What Chang LomOpposite Wat Chedi Chet Thaeo is the What Chang Lom (วัดช้างล้อม), Chang meaning elephant. One might wonder why at first glance, but as one approaches and with a little imagination, one can recognize the shapes of animals surrounding its large chedi, you guessed it, 39 elephant statues once surrounded the base of the chedi.Chedi which is assembled with laterite blocks and has a "terrace" allowing to go around it on the upper floor. Around this terrace, there are niches which once housed statues of Buddhas. Most are very damaged but some still have a head.Wat Chang Lom is said to date from the end of the 13th century, a time when laterite was still widely used in this type of construction rather than the famous red bricks that were used in Sukhothai and, to a greater extent, in Ayutthaya.The hill temples: Wat Khao Suwankhiri and Wat Khao Pahnom PhloengOn the hill behind Wat Chang Lom, you will find two temples, lost among the trees, and where, for a good part of the year, many birds come to lodge.Kinds of storks.The atmosphere (the noise and the smell with it) is therefore a bit special. You can either access it from the left by going around Wat Chang Lom, follow the road and turn right towards where it goes up.At the top, you will see on your right steps leading to the temples. The other option is to go to the right of Wat Chang Lom and then turn left until you reach the bottom of the hill, you will then find a nice series of steps (144 to be exact) and you will then be between the two temples.On one hand, you have the Wat Khao Suwankhiri (วัดเขาสุวรรณคิรี) and its imposing three-story chedi. If you access it from the 2nd option, you will then have to go left after the first set of steps, 150 m further, you will have another set of steps.Around the large chedi you will find the remains of a small hall and its laterite access doors, as well as the remains of several small secondary structures of which little remains. You can also see what served as a basin for rinsing the feet before entering the interior of the temple.On the other part of the hill you will be at Wat Khao Phanom Phloeng (วัดเขาพนมเพลิง). Its name can be translated as sacred fire mountain temple (although my personal knowledge of Thai tells me that Khao and Phanom are a pleonasm, both meaning "mountain" when Phloeng can be translated as fire).On your way there, you will come across a small, well-preserved mandapa (or mondop), which was curiously not dedicated to Buddha, but to a local goddess, Chao Mae La Ong Sam Lee.Behind the mondop, is the main chedi, in Sri Lankan style. Finally, at the end, you will see the remains of the ubosot and its statue of Buddha in a classic seated position. Note that with the vegetation, we can only see a little, depending on the season, the view around, but it is there anyway. Overall, these two temples are very rarely visited and are worth it for me for this particular immersion in these ruins, caught up by nature after an illustrious past.3- The ancient pottery kilns of ThuriangThe Sukhothai Kingdom was particularly renowned for its pottery production, and the town of Si Satchanalai was one of its flagships. It was home to a major ceramic bowl and jar factory at the time (in the 13th century), the production of which came from clay harvested from the banks of the nearby Yom River.The ceramics were glazed with decoration including flower, fish or simply circle motifs. These productions were then exported to Ayutthaya, the nascent kingdom that would later dominate the region, then throughout the Malay Peninsula, and even to the Philippines, Indonesia or Japan.The Thuriang factory had no less than 200 pottery kilns spread over an area of 1.5 km² along the Yom River. Kilns are also found around Wat Phra Phai Luang in Sukhothai, but to a lesser extent.The remains of an ancient ceramic kiln.4- The other ruins of Si SatchanalaiIf you have an "explorer" side, you can find plenty of other secondary ruins near the main historical site. Several small temples are visible right on the side of the road and their access is free.Among the most notable, I remember the Wat Chedi Kao Yod, if you are coming from Sukhothai by road 1113 then 1305 (continuing straight from the north gate of the Sukhothai Historical Park), turn right at the only T-junction you will come across since Sukhothai. You will then be on road 1201, which passes in front of this temple (and at least one other on the side of the road).Wat Chedi Kao Yod surrounded by trees.The road actually passes right next to it.The temple in question is always very quiet and in addition to being surrounded by vegetation, you can visit two other small temples located in the extension of this same hill in one go. In addition to often being alone, you can enjoy the local countryside, with its orchards and the classic rice fields around.As you approach the historic site, you can see other old chedis poking out above the trees on the hills. This makes for a stunning visual effect in the summer when everything is lush and green.The countryside around Si Satchanalai.Ruin of a temple by the roadside.5- The city of Si SatchanalaiAssuming you are transport independent, you can always head to the "modern" town of Si Satchanalai, which has developed 16 km further north of the historical park. You can take a look at the museum, the Golden Clothing Sathon Museum, normally simply called the Gold Textile Museum. The term Gold normally refers to the preciousness of silk, which is what is being discussed here.Rather than a textile museum, I almost see it more as a countryside museum. With its wooden houses, piles of utensils and other old agricultural tools, the textile part is limited to a few silk weaving machines, where sometimes old ladies apply themselves to using them to produce scarves and other fabrics that can be sold on site.Still in the city itself and specifically opposite the museum, you can always take a look at the covered market to soak up a perfectly local atmosphere.At the Si Satchanalai market.6- How to get to Si Satchanalai from SukhothaiSince you will most likely be traveling to Si Satchanalai from Sukhothai, the only public transportation option is the bus. You should check at the bus terminal for those that pass near Si Satchanalai, they will normally drop you off in a village along Highway 101.Credit: Google MapsThis is the famous village I mentioned above since you just have to cross the suspension bridge over the Yom River to arrive at the site of Wat Phra Sri Rattana Mahathat. Before crossing, don't forget to rent a bike (there should be a rental place normally) to better enjoy the place (as a reminder 3 km separates this site and the main part).7- Where to sleep in Si SatchanalaiFew of you will sleep at Si Satchanalai, most people staying at the historic site of Sukhothai and then going to Phitsanulok to take the train back north or taking a bus from Sukhothai town.However, if you are independent (meaning a vehicle), you might as well make a stop there, after visiting Sukhothai in the morning and then Si Satchanalai in the afternoon. Because if you continue your route north, there is no point in going back down to Sukhothai.In which case, here are my suggestions (2 hotels tested by me):Chanalai ResortBudget: from 807 Baht (22€)It is a recent hotel with a swimming pool, which I saw has already been renovated. The rooms are comfortable and the hotel is rather well maintained. Breakfast is included but on the other hand it was still blah and the hotel does not have a restaurant, to eat in the evening, you have to manage. And its main disadvantage is its location a little isolated, because it is away from the city. After, knowing that you should have a vehicle if you end up sleeping there, it is not so much a problem, even if walking is still possible to return to the city to find something to eat. But then, without speaking Thai, it will not always be easy to find a restaurant, especially since Si Satchanalai is a small town where there is not much nightlife.But he has trouble attracting people so I don't know if it will last... I leave the sentence visible because I am happy that this hotel "comes back from afar". I think that the renovation of the swimming pool reflects a change of ownership and / or surely in any case, a change of strategy, which has paid off because given the number of comments on Agoda and the rating, which I previously saw at 7,7 and now raised to 8.0, augurs a good management of the place. I am happy for them because I had affection for the hotel staff who were always very polite and welcoming.Learn more and book Chanalai ResortSisatchanalai Heritage ResortBudget: from 988 Baht (26€)Tried it another time, it was off season so there weren't many people, so all the staff were very attentive to us. I had a bungalow by the river, not a very big room but it was enough. This hotel is closer to the main site since it is about 1 km from the entrance so more convenient than the other one above.Another plus is that they have their own restaurant, which offered decent food at reasonable prices. Breakfast was included.Learn more and book Sisatchanalai Heritage ResortThere you go, I hope this article will make you want to go and take a look at this little-known site, if you don't before you overdose on ruins!Smiles crossed at Si Satchanalai.To complete this visit, here are all the articles dealing with the other historic parks and old towns that are mentioned in this article and that I talk about on the blog:Sukhothai Historical Park and its most beautiful templesKamphaeng Phet, the other historical cityVisit the essentials of Ayutthaya in one dayLopburi, a stop in the monkey cityDid you like the article? share on Pinterest! Did you like the article? Vote on the article Note globale 4.7 / 5. Number of votes: 9 No votes yet. Be the first to rate this article! Did you like the article? Follow me on social media Activities and Adventures Unesco World Heritage Historic site Temple 0 2 Roman 10/09/2018
