What Ratchaburana

History of Wat Ratchaburana

Wat Ratchaburana was founded in 1424 by Borommarachathirat II, a king who was not initially destined to reign. He was in fact the youngest of the three sons of King Intharacha (r. 1409-1424). At that time, each of the three brothers ruled an important city to the northwest of the young capital of Ayutthaya.

Wool, Chao Ai Phraya, ruled the powerful city of Suphan Buri. His younger brother, Chao Yi Phraya, administered San Buri (now Phraek Sriracha, in the Sankha Buri district, located between Chainat and Singburi), a newly conquered town situated on the Noi River. As for the youngest, Chao Sam PhrayaHe was stationed in Chainat, a newly founded town on the banks of the river that would later bear his name — Chao Phraya, which was originally a title of nobility.

Chainat then marked the northern border of the Kingdom of Ayutthaya. Beyond it began the Kingdom of Sukhothaithen in decline but still independent. Upon their father's death, Chao Ai Phraya and Chao Yi Phraya each led an army of about 500 men to Ayutthaya to claim the throne. The two princes clashed in a duel mounted on elephants, just outside the city gates, near the canal. Khlong Pratu Khao Pluak and the bridge known as the "coal market bridge" (Saphan Pa Than).

The outcome was tragic: the two brothers slit each other's throats and died on the spot. The younger brother, Chao Sam Phraya, thus became heir by default. He was proclaimed king under the name of Borommarachathirat II and immediately set about honoring the memory of his brothers.

He first had erected two chedis on the very site of the battle—still visible today at the crossroads facing Wat Ratchaburana, near the remains of the old brick bridge. Then, he ordered the cremation of the two princes and the construction of a temple on their burial site: thus was born Wat Ratchaburana.

After its founding, few events are documented until the temple's destruction in 1767 during the fall of Ayutthaya. But in 1957, the situation took an unexpected turn. The discovery of precious artifacts in the crypts of Wat Mahathat attracted a wave of looters to the city's ruins. One group managed to break into the underground crypt of Wat Ratchaburana, making off with... votive tablets in gold, royal insignia, precious stones and images of BuddhaThe thieves were eventually arrested, but a significant portion of the treasure had already been sold on the international black market.

To prevent further looting, the Department of Fine Arts The following year, a vast campaign of excavation and restoration was launched. Numerous priceless objects were unearthed: they are now preserved and exhibited at the Chao Sam Phraya National Museum, specially created to house these treasures. The museum owes its name to the king who founded the temple, Chao Sam Phraya.

Architecture of Wat Ratchaburana

Wat Ratchaburana features architecture very similar to that of Wat Phra Ram, Wat Phutthaisawan, and its immediate neighbor, Wat Mahathat. All were built in the first decades following the founding of Ayutthaya. The monastery faces east, aligned with the rising sun, following a model directly inspired by the temples of Angkor. The architectural ensemble symbolizes the Mount Meru, the center of the universe in Hindu cosmology.

This is a classic pattern that can be found in places such as Phnom Bakheng, Preah Rup, East Mebon, Baphuon, and Ta Keo (all in the historical area of ​​Angkor): a central tower surrounded by four corner towers in a quincunx arrangement, the whole being itself delimited by a courtyard and a gallery.

As with most temples built after the establishment of Ayutthaya, the style is essentially Khmer: laterite and brick structures covered with stucco finely decorated with bas-reliefs. Wat Ratchaburana is no exception. Originally, it followed a staggered plan, with its central prang surrounded by a covered gallery and four corner towers. The whole was encircled by a ditch filled with water, a symbolic representation of the oceans surrounding Mount Meru.

It was only later that rectangular buildings were added along an east-west axis, reflecting the evolution towards a more specifically Thai architectural style. The western viharn was integrated into the existing gallery, while the ordination hall (ubosot) was built slightly apart, to the west.

1 – The central prang

This is the most iconic feature of the temple. Despite its age, it is remarkably well preserved: it had largely survived the destruction of 1767, which allowed for its restoration to a remarkable state. Its architecture is typical of prangs from the early Ayutthaya period.

A notable feature is the small indoor room, or cella, accessible through an eastern porch, which houses the crypt. Three sets of staircases—to the east, north, and south—provide access. In 1958, the Department of Fine Arts added a staircase to facilitate descent. The crypt consists of two very narrow levels (caution for those with claustrophobia).

– At the first level, we can still distinguish murals representing mandarins and motifs of Chinese influence.
– On the lower level, accessible to only one person at a time, the frescoes are better preserved and illustrate episodes from the life of the Buddha, his disciples and floral motifs.

From the outside, the structure is often compared to a lotus bud or to a corncobSeveral original sculptures can still be seen there, notably that of a Garuda — the mythical bird of Hindu tradition, which has become the emblem of the Thai monarchy — as well as representations of the Naga, the multi-headed serpent, guardian of the waters and the earth.

2 – The viharn

Located to the east of the prang, the viharn was integrated into the pre-existing structure of the surrounding gallery. The main entrance was on the east side, but several secondary entrances also existed. The building had few windows, used primarily to let in some light and ventilate the interior.

Its multi-tiered roof, supported by a series of columns topped with lotus-shaped floral motifs, collapsed during the fire of 1767. Its four walls, however, remain, which is still relatively rare in Ayutthaya.

3 – The Ubosot

The ubosot is located slightly to the west, not attached to the gallery like the viharn. Accessible via a raised porch, it had a similar structure but was smaller in size. The centuries have taken their toll: only the brick base remains today.

4 – Secondary Viharns and Chedis

As in most of the major temples of Ayutthaya, Wat Ratchaburana included several subsidiary viharns and a series of secondary chedis, added gradually over the years. They exhibit varied styles and very uneven states of preservation, which makes exploring the site particularly interesting.