torii fushimi inari taisha tunnel - kyoto

Fushimi Inari-Taisha: the legendary sanctuary with thousands of torii

It was probably the place I was most looking forward to seeing, in front Arashiyama bamboos. I saw this iconic photo so often with this alignment of red doors, a strong symbol of Japan, which we call a torii (I can't figure out if you need an s when saying torii since I never see any... anyway)

Summary hide

Fushimi Inari: Japan's largest Shinto shrine

The torii: symbol of a passage to another world

Fushimi Inari: visit between Kyoto and Nara

A sanctuary to be enjoyed at your own pace

Pratical information

Getting to Fushimi Inari

Fushimi Inari: Japan's largest Shinto shrine

Fushimi Inari is a Shinto shrine, the main religion in Japan. The principle of Shintoism is based on the belief in deities, which can be people, animals or simply the forces of nature (what are generally called kami).

Here, the sanctuary is dedicated, as its name indicates, to the goddess Inari, goddess of rice (and in absolute terms, of wealth). We also come across statues representing a fox in several places, sometimes with a scroll of parchment in its mouth, which is normal, because it represents the message of the goddess.

The site stretches for several kilometers through the mountain that adjoins it. The hiking trail climbs to the top of Mount Inariyama and you will find places to eat and take breaks along the way.

The entire walk normally takes 2 hours, but most people, like us, I admit, due to lack of time, will be content with the lower part, where the group of torii corridors that characterize the place are concentrated.

The torii: symbol of a passage to another world

The torii is seen as a gate, from a pragmatic point of view it symbolizes the entrance to a Shinto shrine, from a spiritual point of view it is as if you are leaving the "human" world and entering the world of "divinities". Joranne's site tells it all very well, in drawing and with humor.

When we see this impressive number of gates, we can feel a certain fervor for the goddess, however, the torii are often financed by wealthy people, companies.

This torii is brought to you by…!

In return for the cost (between €1 and more than €400 depending on the size and location), the torii are engraved with the name of the donor as well as the date of installation. This immediately makes the thing seem less sacred...

Because seeing these vertical writings behind each post, one could imagine profound words, prayers or philosophical thoughts... But no, extrapolating a little, it's just a little publicity stunt like a vulgar sponsor...

Okay, come on, I'm not going to break the myth either, anyway, I don't read Japanese so let's stay in this part of dream and imagination. 😉

Fushimi Inari: visit between Kyoto and Nara

As we were leaving Kyoto to go to Nara, further south, we had taken the JR train on the Nara line from Kyoto station. Arriving at Inari station a few stops further, we therefore had our luggage with us.

We were confident that we would find luggage storage. This was the case at the station, but it was not available so we were directed somewhere on the left. The station is literally opposite the entrance to the shrine, where a huge torii sits in the middle of the alley.

The world at the exit of the station.

luggage storage near inari station - kyoto

50m on the left, you can't miss it.

There are people, but this time I'm not surprised. We'll have to make do. About 50 m on the left at the exit of the station (Inari side), we found a shop offering to keep luggage (for 300 yen per suitcase).

Once relieved, we could rush into the crowd passing through the place and begin our exploration, not without a hint of excitement on my part. After passing through the imposing main gate, we were in the courtyard of the main part of the sanctuary.

This is where the main buildings are concentrated, the one for prayers, and a hall for religious dances and songs, which we will attend (photos forbidden in this area). We lingered a little towards the wall on which are hung a whole bunch of mini torii (key ring version) each bearing the inscription of the donor, before starting to climb the steps, not without coming across statues of the fox messenger.

That's where we saw this sign, indicating a map of the place and that's where I understood the extent of the place... I immediately understood that we would only see a very small part, but such is life.

Is there all that??

So we move forward a little further and pass under our first torii. Big torii. To my great relief, the crowd is quite spread out, so we don't step on each other's toes either. Until we arrive a little further at the corner junction that makes the place famous.

A sanctuary to be enjoyed at your own pace

Two particularly tight and well-aligned torii alleys appear before us (there are already 1000 torii crammed together). There you have it, THE place for THE photo. At that moment I was losing all hope for a "clean", iconic photo. Each alley went in one direction (which some had trouble understanding since we were passing some going the wrong way on the other side...)

So I continued on my way without worrying about the selfie bars and just persevered in our exploration, telling myself that by going higher, further, we would be more peaceful.

corridor torri fushimi inari taisha - kyoto

My first torii!

But as I turned around in this torii corridor, I suddenly saw a void. No, I wasn't dreaming, there was indeed a slot with no one in it! Why? Because in the end, with everyone wanting their photo in front of the junction of the two alleys, it gets jammed, everyone waits, and also wants their photo, so sometimes, there is a gap with no one in it.

And there, it's the game of speed and a certain malicious pleasure to machine-gun to get the Cliché photo. Obtaining a satisfactory photo, I said to myself, it's good, we can go. So we arrived at the small sanctuary of Okusha.

yeah there's no one!

torii fushimi inari taisha column - kyoto

It's nice from the side too.

Here, the small torii have given way to kawaii fox heads (that means cute in Japanese), which some fill with a mischievous look or any other feeling that comes to mind by drawing them, eyes with mouths while initialing the back with their wish and date of passage.

Usually fond of this kind of initiative, we ignored it and continued the walk. We came to a "crossroads" with on the left, a platform where on the side sits the root of a tree (for luck?) as well as stones with inscriptions, in front of which are placed small torii.

Do you see Bangkok written?

Opposite, a path climbs into the forest while continuing straight from the fox-headed shrine, it continues on the main path, still passing under a set of torii.

In order to deviate from the main path, I decided to go up to see the path. It goes uphill, which is not quite to Jitima's taste, who follows me willingly or unwillingly. We find ourselves in a calmer place, surrounded by a bamboo forest on our right.

mountain path fushimi inari taisha - kyoto

At least there's no one there.

And further on, a small sanctuary, we quickly go around it and come across a map, with the distances indicated… Conclusion, we turn around. Making the loop would take us too much time so we turned back to the crossroads from where we came.

Realizing at that moment that I would not have my quiet passages with deserted torii and nourished in my desire to illustrate this place, I wanted to come back for a 2nd dose of photos at the popular junction.

And there, I take my time, which I know how to do very well in general, especially when it comes to photos. An Indian takes advantage of a slot to ask him to take a photo of him, I get him THE perfect photo with the corridor completely free behind him. In return, he offers to do the same to me (but not as well).

So even if we have a bad face on it, we let ourselves be tempted (don't dream, I'm not going to post it!). On the other hand, I gave up the idea of having the photo of the junction itself, but instead took another turn in the torii tunnel, in both directions. And there, I must say that I was served in the downtime that allowed me to get what I wanted.

portrait young lady kimono fushimi inari taisha - kyoto

If we add these moments with the shots of girls in yakuta, I had my bonus portrait of the day. I play a little more with the angles, the light, the writings and leave, happy with my session.

So yes, to reduce a place, a sacred one at that, to a sort of playground for photos, I know, it's not great... But often like that in a particularly symbolic place with a strong image.

portrait at the torii of fushimi inari taisha - kyoto

I took advantage of the fact that the young lady was having her portrait taken to add my own touch.

I obviously feel a little guilty for having skimmed the site, just to get my little series of ideal images for a top "SEEN / TO DO in Japan" but time (and money) has its limits...

If the opportunity arises, I will return with pleasure to better appreciate the whole area, while doing so, in another season to enjoy the colors and a different atmosphere.

Pratical information

The site is open 24 hours a day. Very simple information that we didn't particularly know, so you can arrive very early in the morning to be more peaceful, but also later in the evening!

Hiking at night is, for example, entirely possible (see what Fushimi Inari looks like at night).

Another good thing and it makes sense, it's always open, so it's free !

This is a visit that can be combined with a visit to the Daigo-ji temple, just get off at Rokujizo, still going down to Nara via the JR train and take the Tozai line subway to Daigo station, from there it is a 1 km walk (you can then go back up to Kyoto directly by subway via the same station).

Getting to Fushimi Inari

By train – our option, JR Nara line (local train) and stop at Inari station (just 5 minutes from Kyoto station). Fare: 140¥ (just over 1€ without JR Pass)

There is also a bus that goes south, although it is more expensive than the train (220 yen). Take the 南5 bus, whose kanji is "minami" and means "south", and get off at Inaritaishamae station (it takes 10 minutes).

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