Laos Buddha Park: A day of adventure along the Mekong Vientiane, Travel to Laos 4 (5)With almost a week to spend in Vientiane, I couldn't possibly miss out on the famous Buddha Park, or Xieng Khuan for those "in the know". Although it is considered a must-see, I did not have the opportunity or really the motivation to go there during my last visit to the capital.This park and garden, which can be described as atypical, is nestled 25 km east of Vientiane. Going there gave me a day full of surprises, thus justifying a dedicated article. Summary hide The context Rent a scooter in Vientiane Misdirection First breakdown Second breakdown Buddha Park Coff and Farm, the upscale local café The contextAs mentioned in the introduction, during my first visit to Vientiane, I had skipped the Buddha Park, for several reasons. First of all, its remoteness, certainly relative (25 km is not the end of the world) but lacking time, it was an easy choice. The other reason being that the site, above all contemporary, is subject to controversy or failing that, divides opinions and therefore seemed less important to see. If it is sometimes perceived as eccentric, too modern, or even uninteresting, one can also appreciate the devotion and artistic spirit of its author.Since I had time, the question no longer arose, I had to go see the original version, since I had already seen its Thai alter-ego in Nong Khai, the Sala Keoku, and form my own opinion on what remains a must-see in Vientiane. The plan was therefore to head towards the Buddha Park and stop at a café on the banks of the Mekong on the way back.Rent a scooter in VientianeA quick aside to mention my means of transport. As a fan of independent travel, it was only natural that I wanted to rent a scooter in Vientiane as soon as I arrived in the city. The problem was that as I was originally coming to renew my visa, I had left my passport at the embassy. However, I quickly understood that, as in some tourist areas of Thailand, it is complicated to rent without leaving your passport as a deposit…One of the rental companies I spotted, Kong's Motorbike rental, whose owner is apparently an Indian, tells me that it is possible, provided that you leave a cash deposit. At the time, I say to myself Ok, that's normal and I ask how much... I quickly become disillusioned when I hear the amount... In this fear of bike theft, the amount of the deposit is equivalent to the price of the bike! I certainly really want to rent, but paying so much cash doesn't really appeal to me so I give up...Same thing at a rental place not far away on the same street, no passport, no rental. I was about to give up on the idea of renting and came back to a street near my hotel (the Phongsavath Boutique Hotel) to eat and take my mind off things. It was a good French restaurant by the way, the Tango Restaurant. There were several others, including another one that I tested later, also very good, La Terrasse.It was while walking along this street after eating that I passed a first rental company, Mixay Bike, which again does not rent without a passport. And a few meters further, another small local rental company, without a name, right next to a Japanese restaurant that I will also try later, the Don Don Sakaba. If I detail, at the time, I tried my luck again without hope by asking a guy in front if it was feasible and there surprise, the guy told me ok, the deposit is only 500 kip and he just wants a copy of the passport in addition, which I fortunately have in photo on my phone.At the time I said to myself, given the time and my schedule for the day, I would come back tomorrow. Except that after my digestive walk and a coffee break (at Naked Espresso Misay) , I thought that even this afternoon it could be useful. So I returned to this small rental shop whose name I would learn when signing the contract " BIG ISLAND CAR RENT"Price for 6 days : 800 Kip or about 000 kip per day, 133 baht or €000, which is very reasonable.Opening times : 8:00 a.m. – 19:00 p.m. (every day)Website : https://teshacho-laos.com/en/MisdirectionAs mentioned in the "context" paragraph, I originally planned to go to the Buddha Park directly and on the way back, make a detour on a loop along the Mekong, just to stop for lunch in a small café on the banks of the river. To be more explicit, I'm putting a map below, in blue, it's the direct route that I thought I would take on the way there, and in burgundy, the route that I finally ended up taking (which corresponds more or less to what I wanted to do on the way back, with the green part in addition)..When I looked at the route the day before, I just had the impression that I had to more or less follow the main road. When I arrived at a roundabout, my logic told me to turn right, to go further south, because in fact, I didn't think I was already at the crossroads where I had to go east (which, at the roundabout, gave more the impression of going north). In addition, you should know that in Laos, as soon as you leave a main road, it quickly becomes broken, with potholes, or even more tarmac, so I thought that if I strayed away, I would quickly realize it...When you're on a back road in Laos, it quickly looks like this.But then, as I continued on my way, it was a nice concrete road so I was convinced I was on the right path. On the other hand, I have a good photographic memory (and usually a good sense of direction too), so I thought after a while that I didn't recognize anything. So I ended up checking the road on the GPS, and it had already been more than 7 km since I had passed the roundabout, so it was no longer worth going back. I said to myself, "no big deal, I'll just do my circuit in reverse compared to what I had planned and finish the loop".The café where I wanted to stop later was also along this loop, so I told myself that I would just go back there instead of the main road. Anyway, I continued my progress and passed several temples, including one where I hesitated to stop but continued on my way for the moment. There was a small junction 1,6 km after the temple and there, I noticed that the road was starting to seriously deteriorate.So I look at the map again. If you take a look at the map above, I was already on the green part. I see that by taking an intermediate road next to the temple, it is possible to cut (which corresponds to the burgundy line). This road avoids the green loop which lengthens the route by 4 km, it's not huge but to avoid repetition, I told myself that I would go on this part on the way back instead.First breakdownI turn around and come back to the temple, and while I'm at it, I think I might as well stop there to take some pictures. I want to point out that until now, apart from the scooter stalling easily when idling (like at red lights), I haven't encountered any particular problems.I take a few pictures quietly, in this small, rather photogenic country temple (ວັດຫໍຜ້າ, Vat Ho Pha if we transcribe its name). I take a look inside, where young monks are relaxing, in the cool, and glued to their phones…Then I get back on the bike, turn the key, press the starter, and there nothing, no, not a sound, no reaction. I notice that the fuel needle doesn't even move and I quickly estimate that the battery must be flat. I try to start it with the kick anyway, and... nothing. I start to push the scooter, first to get into the shade, and try again for a while to turn the key several times, without success.Here I am, pushing the scooter out on the side of the temple. I was hesitating about which direction to push before hoping to come across a repairman, not having paid attention until then if I had come across any… I finally start to push to the left to return to the main concrete road, by which I had arrived. But I didn't have to push for long!After a few meters, a local stopped at my height to offer to push me. As such, even if you do not speak English or Lao, it is an explicit situation and you would be helped in the same way. In my case, I am helped a little because Lao is very close to Thai so I make myself understood without too much problem. Back on the main road we go to the right and after not even 1 km, we arrive in front of a repair shop. Barely time to thank the guy that he leaves immediately.That's the meaning of hospitality, I said to myself!The latter confirms that the battery seems dead and changes it immediately, it doesn't even last 15 minutes and it costs me 100 kip (not even 000 bahts, so barely €200) and here I am again, relieved, thinking the problem is solved. So I come back to the temple and this time take the crossroads to avoid the whole loop. This small road stretches for a little over 5 km before arriving at a crossroads, corresponding to the end of the green loop. So far, everything is fine.1st repair.From this intersection, I go to the left to join the main road that I should have followed originally, knowing that there are less than 5 km left to do it. On the other hand, it is directly a dirt road, quite broken, so I advance quite slowly. As usual and this is also why I like to travel by scooter, it is easy to stop quickly to take photos. I stop a first time, nothing to report, the scooter does not stall and I leave again.Second breakdownSecond stop, when I find the section surrounded by photogenic trees. The scooter stalls. Ok, no problem, I remain confident, I take my photo, "click" and press the starter again, except that there, ouch... Here we go again, I have nothing, no noise, it doesn't start anymore... There on the other hand, it's more delicate, because I am in an area with little traffic and few houses... I think for a few seconds, hesitate to go back to the previous repairer, I know that there are at least 3 km, in addition to making me go back, otherwise I try the other side, where I know that it takes 4 km to reach the main road.Even though it's a bit longer, I choose this 2nd option and here I am pushing the beast again... Again, it didn't last very long, before a girl this time, stopped to offer to help me. I had to push for about 2 km before coming across a first motorcycle garage, unfortunately without its mechanic... Fortunately, there was another one opposite a few meters away. Relieved, I thank my savior once again, who also leaves very quickly without expecting anything in return.The mechanic's first instinct, with his dirty, ripped jeans and a tank top revealing tattoos along his arm, is to check the battery, which I explain to him had just been changed less than an hour ago. And indeed, the battery isn't the problem. There, things get a bit complicated, I sit down while the father joins his son and begins to dismantle my poor Yamaha Fino at the end of its tether.They fumble, test and finally find a faulty cable that they replace for me. It took a good half hour, cost an additional 150 kip (less than 000 baht, barely more than €300) but here I am finally on my way again, this time for good, and I arrive at the Buddha Park more than 7 hours behind what I had planned… I can thank the solidarity of the Laotians because this is the kind of hassle that could have quickly made me lose a day. And since I'm a nice guy, I didn't say anything to the rental company, giving him the repairs as a gift…Buddha ParkI already mentioned it in my article dedicated to visiting Vientiane, but as a reminder, this original park is the creation of an artist / spiritualist named Bunleua SulilatThe latter is said to have met in his youth a hermit called Keoku (hence the park in Thailand, Sala Keoku, see just after) and decided to continue an apprenticeship with the latter. With an eccentric personality and a faith mixing the Hindu and Buddhist religions, Bunleua Sulilat began in 1958 to create a garden where he began to make concrete sculptures representing divinities and characters from local mythology emerge from the ground.For the record, its creator was worried about the political turn of the 70s and fled to the land of his origins, Nong Khai, located just opposite in Thailand. 20 years after his first creation, he built a new park there, Sala Keoku, just 3km east of Nong Khai, this location is probably due to being practically opposite its Laotian counterpart. There were a lot of people when I arrived, including groups of Chinese, but fortunately most were leaving and I wasn't too bothered by the crowds.Entrance to Buddha Park.As I entered the area where the various sculptures were located, my eye was quickly drawn to a sort of giant ball with an antenna at the top. Why? Because I saw people at the top. I then told myself that it was an ideal spot to have an overall view of the site and so I began my visit there.I was shocked by the narrowness, and even the danger of the stairs to reach the top of this structure, without a barrier or protection. The interior is filled with a multitude of characters, spread over several floors. It is quite dark and gloomy. The final hole to exit onto the roof is really not wide, so much so that you have to crouch down to get in and out, in short, it is clearly not within everyone's reach.The rest of the park is a collection of figures of various sizes and shapes, one of the centerpieces being a long reclining Buddha, near the entrance. Many locals seem to appreciate the place, especially for taking family photos, but it's also where I came across the most European tourists (even if it's not crowded either). It's quite quick to go around it and I even think it's smaller than the Sala Keoku in Thailand.On the other hand, I find it better laid out, more flowery and apart from the sculptures, less concrete. If we forget the modern and eccentric aspect, it remains nice to walk around, even if in the end, it takes as much time on site as it takes to get there from the city centre.After what compensates a little, is that at the back, overlooking the Mekong River, on the edge of which is this park, you will have a pretty garden as well as a restaurant. It is therefore possible to eat on site while enjoying a view of Thailand located just on the other side.I also saw that from one park to another, similar statues were built, here is an example below, on the left you have its version at Sala Keoku and on the right, that of the Buddha park in Vientiane:Entrance fee: 40 KipOpening hours: 8:00 a.m. – 17:00 p.m. (daily)Coff and Farm, the upscale local caféAfter spending a little less than an hour in the park, I got back on the road to head back to my area of misery. Including a few stops to take pictures (notably to take a picture of the Nong Khai bank just opposite or of the cows crossing the street peacefully), it took me about half an hour to get to the café. If there were some signs near it, luckily I had the GPS, because it's not easy to find.You have to go into one of the villages that borders the river, which I had passed through on the way there, and I find myself again on a dirt road, then I finally arrive at the edge of the Mekong from where I can see an island in the middle of the river, which belongs to Thailand if I stick to the border line.The banks are lined with sand, you would almost think you were at the beach. Seeing the café, I was about to cut through the sand to reach the car park. Some locals on the terrace under a tree, which overlooks the bank, signalled me to go around. While I was doing that, I saw a car that had also wanted to cut through like me by going straight out of the car park, and had gotten stuck… Fortunately, with a few hands, the latter was quickly pulled out of trouble.On the small dirt road not far from the café.All that remains is to push...Facing the Mekong.You have to see that at that point, I still hadn't had lunch even though it was already 16 p.m.... Needless to say, I was really hungry. I thought I saw that they were making food, so I won't tell you how disappointed I was when I realized that there were only instant noodles and a few pastries... I consoled myself by hoping for a good coffee (cold, as usual) and had a croissant and an egg tart as a side dish.And if until now, I had not had good coffee (I'm talking about the drink, not the place), I finally found my happiness. And good god it felt good! Strolling in this heat, it did me good to sit down and be able to nibble on something, as light as it was.Since it was so nice, I hung around for an hour, sipping my drink and observing the local atmosphere. Most of the clientele is young and trendy. It must be said that the setting is nice, with a view of the Mekong, a farm next door and a pretty garden in front of the building built with bamboo.This is the kind of trendy café that we come across more and more often in Thailand, but which for Laos, remains, I think, still quite rare, but easy to understand why it pleases. Once full, it was time to leave, because I wanted to avoid driving too late, with the sunset approaching, and return to Vientiane before nightfall. Did you like the article? Vote on the article Note globale 4 / 5. Number of votes: 5 No votes yet. Be the first to rate this article! Did you like the article? 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