Seokguram Grotto and Bulguksa Temple in Gyeongju

Seokguram Grotto and Bulguksa Temple are two jointly designated UNESCO World Heritage Sites located in the ancient city of Gyeongju. This city is one of the cradles of Korean culture, since it is the starting point of the domination and unification of the peninsula that will become the influential kingdom of Silla, of which Gyeongju will remain the capital for nearly a thousand years. This long period of prosperity has left many traces and monuments still visible today.

Seokguram Grotto, located on Mount Toham in the southeast of the city, is home to a granite Buddha statue that is considered one of the masterpieces of Korean Buddhist art, while Bulguksa Temple, built in the 8th century at the foot of the same mountain where the grotto is located, is considered one of the most beautiful Buddhist temples in Korea. The grotto and the temple are inseparable since they are only a few kilometers from each other and were built at the same time. In short, these are two important Buddhist sites that should not be missed if you pass through Gyeongju, the city that is often nicknamed "the city of gold" and often regarded as a veritable open-air museum.

Seokguram Grotto

To put it in context, it was on our first day that we went to the cave, in order to do the most out-of-the-way sites first. We went there after visiting the small Bunhwangsa complex, a 10th century temple with a more atypical architecture that I wanted to visit on the way since the bus going to the cave and temple area passed by. So it was with bus line 12 that we went to the Seokguram cave, a journey that lasted a little over an hour. The latter dropped us off at the Bulguksa temple parking lot, from there, you have to take a dedicated shuttle (bus XNUMX to be more precise, one per hour) going to the cave parking lot a little higher up, which is on a promontory with a view of the valley. What you can see below is a group of buildings, lots of rice fields, empty at this time of year, and a mountain in front.

View from the cave parking lot.

The parking lot is the entrance point to the path leading to the cave, as it is not directly next to it, but is accessed via a short hike of about 850 meters. Note that it is also possible to access the cave on foot from Bulguksa Temple via a 3 km hiking trail, which then continues to the top of the mountain (745 m) and can be followed until returning close to Gyeongju Tower, an iconic tower east of Gyongju's main historical area.

Next to the parking lot, we find ourselves at a few steps of stairs with on the side at the top, a platform on which a roof typical of old Korean architecture protects a large bell. On the side of the platform, we can read in English "Ring the bell for mercy", which can be literally translated as "Ring the bell for mercy", so asking for forgiveness in short. Knowing that a small donation of 1 won is requested to make it, it therefore comes to less than a euro to obtain absolution, it's a gift, it's a discount.

Once the payment was made at the ticket office (see prices below), we went through the large wooden gate indicating the entrance to the path, and there we were, off for a short 15-minute walk. All along the path, a farandole of colorful lanterns marked the route on each side, all the way to the pavilion housing the entrance to the Seokguram Grotto (which, in addition to being classified by UNESCO, is also listed by Korea as national treasure no.24). The walk is pleasant, because it is shaded, in the middle of vegetation where you can come across a few squirrels. You will only have a few steps on the last 200 m to go up to the cave where the statue of the Buddha is located.

First, you enter a wooden antechamber, with a small corridor inside leading to the rotunda that forms the cave. The statue is in the center, appearing peaceful, surrounded by niches with other statues on the sides. It is a beautiful granite sculpture, measuring 3,5 m high, resting on a lotus-shaped base. The position is the one that is classically found in Thailand, with the right hand resting on the knee and the left hand, a position called "taking the earth to witness".

Cave ticket office and door indicating the way to the cave.

Path leading to the cave.

Entrance to Seokguram Grotto.

Renovations had taken place in previous centuries, already transforming the site, which had once been a stream flowing right in front of the cave. The antechamber is precisely a recent addition following the renovations that took place in the years 1913-15. These, with the addition of a concrete base on top, had a negative impact on the humidity present in the cave, once "breathing" naturally through the interstices of the granite blocks composing it. After multiple attempts at improvements to stem the infiltration of water and control the temperature, it was not until the 60s and a more in-depth study of the site to stem the phenomenon and give the cave its current appearance. It must be admitted that with the photos forbidden inside and the fact that the statue can only be seen through a glass protecting it, it is a bit frustrating, even if it is understandable.

The appearance of the cave before the renovations.

Interior of the cave and its Buddha. Cultural Heritage Administration, KOGL Type 1 Wikimedia Commons

Outside the cave, there are only a few secondary buildings without much interest, because although they certainly have an aspect respecting typical Korean architecture, it is modern. There was a building housing a statue of Buddha, in front of which was a string of lanterns blocking the view of the cave as well as an area reserved for staff. Otherwise, there was a view of the mountains behind, with a visible building standing out in the valley, the headquarters of a subsidiary of KEPCO, the main electricity supplier in South Korea (there, that was the lame anecdote of the day).

Bulguksa Temple

Back at the cave parking lot, we just had to wait for the shuttle to go down to the temple entrance. We were ready to visit the temple after a lunch break nearby, and to our surprise, we didn't see too many options despite the presence of a major attraction in the area. The latter is nevertheless considered the 1st "historical and scenic" site by the South Korean government, where there are no less than 7 national treasures.

FYI, South Korean National Treasures are a collection of objects and buildings that have been recognized by the South Korean government for their exceptional historical, artistic, and cultural value, I can't give a better definition than Wikipedia's. To date, there are 319 of them, 37 of which are in Gyeongju.

As soon as you enter the Bulguksa Temple site, the peaceful and green environment transports you to another time. Surrounded mainly by a forest, including pine trees just behind the parking lot, the site breathes nature and you move forward with enthusiasm towards the entrance, marked by a large traditional wooden door. The paved and tree-lined path leads you to the courtyard in front of the main building, creating an impression of going back in time.

Temple map to help you find your way.

The greenery in front of the temple entrance.

We're starting to get used to this kind of door.

Bulgkusa here we come.

As you approach the majestic stone façade, you can see a similar shelter with a large bell, like those located in front of the stairs leading to the cave. Right next to it, a closed door gives access to an area reserved for the staffs I guess (I don't think there are any monks here). The stone façade is impressive, with two stone staircases leading to a terrace. Each staircase is divided into two parts, the lower section symbolizing the earthly world and the upper part, the access to the realm of the Buddha. The stairs of the Bulguksa temple thus create a link between the physical world and the spiritual world.

The ruins of the temple in 1914.

Bulguksa today.

Yeonhwagyo and Chilbogyo Bridges

The leftmost staircase is made up of the bridge Yeonhwagyo, also called the lotus bridge, which has lotus flowers engraved on each step. It evokes the desire to be reborn in the pure realm of Amitabha Buddha. The other section is called the bridge Chilbogyo, or bridge of the seven treasures. Together they lead to the gate Anyangmun, which protects the Geugnakjeon, one of the two main halls of the temple. These stepped bridges have been recognized as the national treasure no.22.

Yeonhwagyo and Chilbogyo seen from the front.

Cheongungyo and Baegungyo bridges

The most imposing of the stairs is the one on the right, made up of 33 steps, with a lower section called Cheongungyo (the blue cloud bridge) comprising 17 steps, and an upper section named Baegungyo (the white cloud bridge) formed by the remaining 16 steps. These two sections are separated by a magnificent stone arch bridge with an intermediate terrace. Together, they symbolize the difficulty of reaching the Buddha Land and the path to enlightenment. The staircase leads to the gate Jahamun (also known as the Purple Mist Gate), which opens onto a courtyard leading to the main hall of the temple, Daeungjeon. These two stepped bridges are recognized as the national treasure no.23.

Access to the inside of the temple is not via stairs but through a discreet door on the side of the main courtyard. Passing through there, you can see a pool of clear water where locals use plastic ladles to drink. I imagine that it is a form of purification or failing that, water considered holy, I have not found any information on this. As I enter the cloister, I am struck by the colorful patterns adorning the ceilings and the finely carved wooden pillars. Although I am aware that these decorations are mainly modern restorations, they are nonetheless faithful to the original motifs and representative of Korean Buddhist culture.

Slurp

Dabotap and Seokgatap Pagodas

In the courtyard, two other national treasures can be found, the Dabotap pagodas et Seokgatap, located on either side in front of the Geugnakjeon Hall. These are the oldest original structures in the temple, representing the yin (feminine element) and yang (masculine element) respectively. Dabotap (treasure no. 20) represents the complexity of the world, while Seokgatap (treasure no. 21) represents the simplicity of spiritual ascension.

The two pagodas visible from the cloister.

The first pagoda, Dabotap, located to the right of the hall, represents Dabo Buddha, the Korean name for Prabhutaratna Buddha, who is said to have verified the Lotus Sutra, considered the ultimate teaching of Shakyamuni, the historical Buddha. The latter, also known as Siddhartha Gautama (the Buddha well known to Thais), is symbolized by the second pagoda, Seokgatap (literally Shakyamuni Pagoda), located to the left of the hall. The importance of Dabotap is underlined by its higher construction, at 10,4 m compared to 8,2 m for Seokgatap. Its architecture is also more complex. The pagoda has a square base bordered by four staircases at the top of which one can see a stone lion representing wisdom. On the upper part, supported by four pillars, one can observe a kind of granite balconies and an octagonal structure at the top, symbolizing the lotus, in reference to the Sutra. As an aside, it is the Dabotap Pagoda that has been depicted on the 10 won coin since 1966.

The Seokgatap Pagoda, also made of granite blocks, is much simpler in appearance, also with square floors, but devoid of engravings and sculptures on its facades. It prefigures the traditional Korean style, characterized by simple lines and minimal details. And another anecdote, it is in this pagoda that the oldest printed text in the world was found.

Daeungjeon and Geugnakjeon

There are several different sections within the temple. The courtyard with two pagodas, houses the main hall of Bulguksa, Daeungjeon, the Hall of the "Great Awakening", originally built in 681. Inside sits a large golden statue of Shakyamuni Buddha. I didn't pay much attention to the building visible in the neighboring courtyard, the hall Geugnakjeon (Hall of Supreme Bliss). Located opposite the Yeonhwagyo and Chilbogyo bridges, the latter is therefore also dedicated to the Buddha Amitabha, represented by a gilded bronze statue (national treasure no. 27). In front of the hall is also a small golden statue of a pig, considered to bring good luck if rubbed.

At the time, I also didn't pay much attention to a long building that was decorated with flower pots along its facade, but in the courtyard behind Daeungjeon stands the "wordless" hall, Museum of History. This is a large hall used for giving lectures on the sutras, mainly used by the Great Master U-sang who taught here. It is one of the oldest buildings in the temple, built around 670. The term "wordless" comes from the belief that it is impossible to express the essence of the Buddha's teachings simply through language.

Facade of the Museoljeon hall.

Birojeon and Gwaneumjeon

Slipping behind the Museoljeon, one accessed the upper part of the temple, with, initially, a few steps leading to the hall. Birojeon. This small hall houses the national treasure no.26, a gilded bronze statue of the Buddha Vairocana (the one who rules over the realm of truth) dating from the Silla period. This Buddha, in a seated position, stands out from the other statues thanks to its unique gesture, his left hand covering the index finger of his right hand. Too bad that a line of colored lanterns in front spoiled the view a little more than it brightened it.

Finally, via another series of slightly steeper steps, we reached the highest part of the temple, with the sanctuary of Gwaneumjeon. This small structure preserves a statue of the bodhisattva Avalokitesvara, the " Lord who watches us". He is known as "He who listens to the cries of the world", dedicated to the well-being of all living beings. Always ready to help those who are suffering or in need, he is a very popular bodhisattva who, feminized in China and a good part of Southeast Asia, is known as Guanyin, the famous goddess of mercy who is also regularly found in temples in Thailand.

The museum and the garden

After having walked around the temple, not without admiring the view from the top of the famous staircase bridges, it was time to return to the foot of the building and continue our visit in order to return to the parking lot. To do this, we crossed a small bridge (named Banyagyo) spanning a stream and leading to an area where a museum dedicated to the temple was recently built. Since we wanted to see something else afterwards, we moved on because we had just spent a little over an hour at the temple. It was then 15:40 pm and we did not forget that it is away from the rest of the attractions of Gyeongju, so we had to take that into account because we needed at least an hour to reach the next site, while night falls quite early around 17:40 pm.

So, we passed the Cheon-Wangmun gate, where two giant guardians are hiding and the path led to the next bridge, this time spanning a pond. We arrive in a mid-afternoon light, not unpleasant, and the garden surrounding this pond is well maintained and has a beautiful effect. This wonderfully ends this rather enjoyable visit. It is just at the exit, in the parking lot, that you will find on the left the start of the 3 km trail leading to the cave.