Ko Kret: escape to the pottery island just a stone's throw from Bangkok

Ko Kret is a small island located in the middle of the Chao Phraya River, about twenty kilometers north of central Bangkok (in the neighboring province of Nonthaburi). Known for its pottery and its countryside atmosphere, it is a favorite place for Bangkokians to take a green getaway, especially on weekends, when the markets are in full swing and liven up the villages on the island.

A pleasant getaway to do by bike, the island is only accessible by boat, you will only come across two-wheelers on the small paths going around Ko Kret.

Brief History of Ko Kret

It must be understood that as such, Ko Kret is an artificial island, forming a sort of peninsula around which the Chao Phraya River meandered until 1722. This changed when King Tai Sra (also known by his dynastic name Sanphet IX, reigning over Ayutthaya between 1709 and 1732), eager to stimulate the economy, wanted to shorten the journey of ships sailing between the capital Ayutthaya and the Gulf of Thailand.

He ordered a large canal to be dug, cutting off what would become Ko Kret from the mainland to create a shortcut. The result was this small piece of land less than 3 km long and 1,5 km wide. The canal was named Klong Lat Kret Noi and the island was originally named Ko Sa la Kun.

Its first inhabitants were a community of Mon. As a reminder, the Mons are an ethnic group, originally from the Irrawaddy basin (present-day Burma) and were the majority in what is now northern Thailand, forming what was then called the kingdom of Hariphunchai, whose capital was the current city of Lamphun.

The Mons were later dominated by the arrival of the Tai, an ethnic group known simply as the Thais, who now inhabit Thailand and migrated from southern China in the 12th century (founding respectively the kingdoms of Lanna in the north, and the kingdom of Sukhothai, dominating the central plains as far as the Thai peninsula).

Most of the Mons later regrouped in what forms the Mon State in Burma, but small communities have persisted on Thai soil, thus preserving their culture (practice of Buddhism and their crafts, including the famous pottery).

Regarding Ko Kret, this followed the destruction of Ayutthaya by the Burmese army in 1767. Fleeing the war, the populations moved further down to what is now Nonthaburi and Bangkok.

What to do and see on Ko Kret

While the island is accessible 24/7, Ko Kret is much busier on weekends and there will be more to do and see at this time than during the week. On weekends, there are markets, restaurants, cafes are all open and you can even find an artist's house offering entertainment.

But if it is much quieter during the week, this does not detract from the charm of Ko Kret, which is always worth a visit. If only for the opportunity to get out into the countryside and meet its people.

Map of Ko Kret.

Cycling around the island

With a main path going around the island barely exceeding 5 km, it is still quite possible to go around it on foot. However, because it remains practical and easy, you will have bikes available as soon as you arrive at the quay, after the ferry crossing.

In general, you are asked for an identity card as a "deposit" and you will be good to go around. As I mentioned, there are no cars on the island and it is obviously flat, except for the few bridges spanning the canals on the paths perpendicular to the main axis. The only people you will meet will be other curious people, probably from Bangkok, otherwise the locals traveling on motorbikes.

You can then take an elevated path that goes around the island. The main one is a little wider but you can also explore the side paths, leading to the Chao Phraya River, where several other villages on the island are located. These paths are narrower and there are no barriers on the sides, so be careful to control your bikes a little (especially if you are with children).

The island has a population of 6, spread across seven villages, the largest of which, where the weekend market is located, is Ban Mon (an obvious name given the origins of its inhabitants).

Visit its old temples

Seven is also the number of temples that can be found on the island, the main one being Wat Poramai Yikawat, which is the one next to the main arrival dock. It is located in the north-eastern corner of the island and was previously simply called Wat Pak Ao, the "estuary temple".

Wat Poramai Yikawat is probably the first temple established on the island, as early as the middle of the 1774th century. After being abandoned for a time, it was restored by the Mon around XNUMX and then took a name in the Mon language, translating as the "temple of the cape" (Kui Mie Kia Deng).

Wat Poramai Yikawat, seen from the ferry.

Its current name, also transcribed as "Wat Paramaiyikawat", can be translated as "temple of the grandmother". It is owed to King Chulalongkorn (Rama V) who presided over the ceremony of Thot Kathin (also called Kathina) in the four Mon temples of Nonthaburi, in 1874. Noting that the temple was in very poor condition, Rama V ordered its restoration while preserving the Mon style in order to dedicate it to his grandmother. She had raised him when he was young and Rama V then decided to rename the temple "Wat Paramaiyikawat" in her memory, elevating the temple to the second rank of royal temple.

The newly renovated ordination hall features beautifully painted murals in traditional Thai style. Outside the temple you will find what has become the true symbol of the island, the leaning chedi “Phra Chedi Mu Tao” (พระเจดีย์มุเตา), a white pagoda in the Mon style. King Chulalongkorn is said to have placed Buddha relics inside in 1884.

Originally, it was obviously a vertical pagoda. But due to its location on the water's edge, the annual floods eventually eroded the bank, which caused the pagoda to tilt around 1891. Although there was an attempt to straighten it during a restoration launched in 1992, the pagoda could not be straightened. This particularity has made it the emblem of Ko Kret.

For the record, this chedi is a replica, much smaller, of the Shwemawdaw pagoda, located in Bago, Burma. It is a pagoda venerated and highly respected by the Mons, which we had visited during our Day of discovery of the temples in Bago. Another notable building of this temple, in the backyard, surrounded by a cloister, you have a hall with a reclining Buddha.

The leaning chedi of Wat Poramai Yikawat.

If you cycle the loop, you will pass most of the other temples and can take a look at them at your leisure. The most notable ones are:

• Wat Sao Tong Thong: temple in the Mon style, whose main buildings and stupas date from the Thonburi era or the beginning of the Rattanakosin period (between the end of the 18th and the beginning of the 19th century). Its main attraction is the Chedi Yo Mum Mai Sip Song, located at the back of the Ubosot. It is the largest on the island of Ko Kret, but also one of the oldest. Opposite, you can admire the large seated Buddha placed on the banks of the Chao Phraya River.

The large seated Buddha that can be seen in front.

• Wat Phai Lom : temple also with typical Mon architecture, you will be greeted in front of the Ubosot (main building) by Hamsas, a kind of giant swan, symbol of an auspicious animal for the Mon people. Its Buddha image inside the hall is surrounded by flashing light, typical of the Burmese style, as is the main stupa and several statues of the temple.

Wat Phai Lom and its two Hamsas.

These two temples are on the north coast of the island, where the main village with the weekend market is located. On the east side, after the pottery village area, you will come across Wat Chim Pli Sutthawat, a temple especially notable for its chedi whose tip has just been nicely renovated, in addition to offering a set of buildings all centuries old.

100 m further on, you have the small Wat Pa Lee Lai, long abandoned, it has since been renovated. It is probably maintained with the finances of its neighbor, the latter as such does not have a monk and only one small ubosot.

Most of the information about these temples comes from the excellent site temple-thai, listing all the Thai temples (there’s plenty to do!)

Trying your hand at pottery

It is around Wat Chim Pli Sutthawat that you will find most of the houses welcoming the curious, eager to try this discipline. It is indeed the Mon heritage and the local specialty.

Mon pottery, also known as kwan arman, is made of unglazed red clay and is worked by hand. While some urns and pots are made with simple designs, others are carved with more complex cut-out patterns using special tools. There are two dedicated pottery villages in Ko Kret, with about twenty workshops.

Especially along the east coast, you will see old kilns, unfortunately increasingly abandoned, but you will always come across potters at work taking the small streets perpendicular to the path winding through the villages (which are side by side).

It is then possible to ask to make a pottery yourself, according to the model you prefer (ashtray, incense holder, candle holder, etc.), which you are charged for 200 Bahts. An original activity with a souvenir that you will have created yourself, it's not trivial!

If you buy their pieces that you find for sale, you will notice that the prices are much cheaper here than in other markets in Bangkok, such as Chatuchak, where pottery is sold.

Old pottery kiln.

In a pottery workshop.

A potter at work.

Sign indicating a workshop.

Another small pottery workshop.

Drying the newly finished pottery (so that it can be brought back by the person who made it).

Walk between villages and countryside

On Ko Kret, you will come across many wooden houses, restored or not. The part located along the arrival quay, to the east of the island is certainly the most charming of the island. We forget then that just opposite, Nonthaburi is a city with strong urbanization (suburb of Bangkok). Here, we circulate along a narrow alley, crossing small shops and street vendors likely to block your way at each turn. Look at the mirrors when there are some in order to avoid inadvertently running into someone around a corner.

In addition to the pottery workshops and merchants, it is on this part of the island that you will discover several cafés, a famous craft beer bar (the Chitbeer, open only on weekends) or the artists' house, mentioned above, whose frontage is recognizable by its giant head representing Hanuman (monkey god).

Along the east coast of the island.

Small street in the village.

No. 1 Coffee Steak Restaurant (open weekends only)

A cafe open on weekends.

The artists' house.

If you are curious, also take the small paths leading to the villages located along the Chao Phraya, on the southern part of the island. On the other hand, there are no signs so you will have to feel your way if you do not have a GPS to find your way. After all, you will not be able to get lost, since it is an island 😉

It is in a restaurant on the southern part of the island that I like to stop for lunch. At the water's edge, on the terrace of a converted house, you feel privileged to taste this good, literally homemade cuisine (see its location here, the name is only in Thai).

On a side road.

Arriving at the local restaurant on the waterfront.

The restaurant terrace.

On my way back north, I came across a café on the waterfront last time, set up in two beautiful old teak houses on stilts. Closed when I was there (during the week), I plan to try it next time (it's the GLASTRON Club House and HIP CAFE').

The Glastron Clubhouse and Hip Café.

The island is also known for having some plantations, especially durian plantations. In any case, it is mostly green, even if there is no real forest since it is a generally marshy land, crossed by a multitude of small canals.

Again, if you are in Ko Kret on a weekend, arriving on the northern part, from Wat Sao Tong Thong, you will find some animation. You will have some street vendors there, but the bulk of the animation is under the covered part of the village. If it is deserted during the week, on weekends, you will have to dismount your bike if you want to go through, unless you take the raised path that goes off to the right, just after the temple.

This path bypasses the market if you don't want to be in a crowd and have nothing to buy. You will then arrive directly at Wat Poramai Yikawat, back to square one. You can also take the fork after Wat Phai Lom, just to see the market a bit and then go around it.

When you pass this tree, you will arrive at Wat Sao Tong Thong and the weekend market.

The path around the market.

Summary of attractions on a map

How to get to Ko Kret

If I detail below the means of arriving on site, I can first specify that we find 3 docks to access the island of Ko Kret.

1. The one I mainly use and will therefore mention, is the one from Wat Sanam Nuea. The latter crosses at the level of the main temple of Ko Kret (Wat Poramai Yikawat) next to the weekend market.
2. There is another one at the level of the Wat Klang Kret, which also serves as a stop for the Chao Phraya Express (the N32, according to flag and timetable, see below). Used by locals crossing on their mopeds.
3. Between the dock listed " Ang Thong Farm Cross River Ferry Pier » (just north of Wat Klang Kret) and the Wat Chimphli Sutthawat (Ko Kret side). I suspect this connection only operates on weekends.

This seems the most obvious at first glance, given that the island is in the middle of the river... However, if this solution exists, it must be noted that there are some constraints.

As such, you can borrow the Chao Phraya Express. You have to make several lines but the only one that works all day is this one:

• • orange flag : 15฿ per ticket, runs daily, from 06:00 to 19:00 between Wat Rajsinkorn (S3) and Nonthaburi (N30) piers.

For others, there will be a time and day constraint:

• • • yellow flag : 20 ฿ per ticket, runs Monday to Friday, mornings between 06:15 and 8:20 and afternoons between 16:20 and 00:3 between Wat Rajsinkorn (S30) and Nonthaburi (NXNUMX) quays as well.
    • green flag : 13/20/32 ฿ ticket depending on distance, runs Monday to Friday, morning between 06:10 and 8:10 then afternoon between 16:18 and 05:3 between Wat Rajsinkorn (S33) and Pakkret (NXNUMX) platforms.

During the week, it is the latter, the green flag which can be the most interesting since it takes you directly to the island of Ko Kret (Pakkret stop, N33). However, as you can see, you will either have to be early to enjoy it since it only operates during peak hours, or go there only at the end of the afternoon, risking ending your visit at night.

The alternative is therefore to take the orange flag, but there is also a hitch since the terminus is at the Nonthaburi museum, some 10 km further south of Ko Kret. It is then necessary to complete the journey. The easiest way is to take a taxi, ask to be dropped off at Wat Sanam Nuea, specify that it is to go to Ko Kret (Koh Kret). You should get it for around 100฿.

There are probably songthaews (pick-up trucks that act as shared taxis) going to the area, see if you can find them, as they pass by the Nonthaburi Market (walk a little past the clock tower located next to the docks).

Boat with orange flag at Saphan Taksin stop.

If you take the boat from Saphan Taksin, accessible from the skytrain (BTS Saphan Taksin stop, exit 2), allow a good hour to reach Nonthaburi (N30). This is an opportunity to see all of Bangkok pass by, taking you past major attractions such as the Wat Arun and the Grand Palace. After passing the new parliament building (after the N18 stop), you will arrive at an area lined with stilt houses, as is a good part of Nonthaburi, but also the island of Ko Kret.

This is a good option to stroll and enjoy the river "show". It is possible once arrived in Nonthaburi to visit its market, the museum, and to continue the "adventure" to Ko Kret by boat. Indeed, once at the arrival pier N30 (also called Pibul 3), long tail boats (the famous long tail boat) will be ready to take you there. The problem is that they tend to be a bit too greedy and the fare is more expensive than a taxi... If you are tempted, it should not be more than 1 ฿ (the boat, not per person), knowing that there are still 000 km by river, which is not close either, to reach Ko Kret from Nonthaburi.

The Grand Palace visible from the Chao Phraya.

Wat Arun.

Construction of the new parliament.

Fewer buildings on the horizon as you go up the river.

The Nonthaburi Museum building at Chao Phraya Express stop N30.

You have arrived safely in Nonthaburi.

Go take a stroll to the local market, you will be well received!

A solution that can be quite quick if you take the right bus. The most convenient and quickest being the n ° 166, which you can take from Victory Memorial (accessible by BTS). This is an air-conditioned bus that costs not even 20 ฿ and has the advantage of taking the highway to go up to Nonthaburi, so it is more direct.

He goes to the Pak Kret Market not far from the Chao Phraya Express (N33) pier, mentioned above, located under the Rama IV bridge. From there, it is 500 m to the ferry at Wat Sanam Nuea.

The other buses will take longer (1h30) because they do not take the motorway, which would therefore be the same as the boat in terms of time but can still be closer.

Le No. 505 for example, another air-conditioned bus (15฿), leaves from Pratu Nam or Lumpini Park and also goes to Pak Kret market.

The simplest and most direct solution is to take a taxi from your hotel or wherever you are leaving from. Knowing thatIt only takes half a day to visit Ko Kret, you can plan morning tours and then head to the island in the afternoon.

Depending on the distance, expect to pay between ฿200 and ฿250 for this trip. Again, ask to be dropped off at Wat Sanam Nuea. The taxi may have to take the highway (more convenient), remember that this is to be paid separately (give the toll amount just before going through it). In doing so, it could only take half an hour depending on the time and day of the week (or weekend).

To further simplify the process, you can use the local Grab app for a small additional charge in the cost.

For the sake of variety, my advice for getting to Ko Kret would be to go there by boat (+ taxi if necessary on the way) and return directly by taxi. This allows you to avoid the long journey to get there in both directions (unless you love boats!).

Sleeping in Ko Kret is possible!

I will end this article by mentioning the fact that if you are interested in the experience, it is possible to sleep on the island, which has several homestays. The opportunity to remind you that any reservation made on the site helps me maintain the site through affiliation.

For Ko Kret, my recommendation is:

Baanya Homestay Ko Kret

Budget: from 800 Baht (€18)

The rating: 8.6/10

The island keeps its rural side and develops little. In a sense so much the better, but we feel a growing interest for the Bangkokians. The shops are more numerous than before and I was even surprised to come across a mini commercial zone in the north of the island (where the market is on weekends).

“Mini” commercial zone in Ko Kret.

Even the network of paths is expanded, because there was no possible branch before around the main village. So don't wait any longer and go get some fresh air in Ko Kret!

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