Nakhon Pathom: Visit the world's tallest chedi

Nakhon Pathom is a town just an hour west of Bangkok. It is best known for being home to the Phra Pathom Chedi, considered the largest chedi (or stupa) in the world at 127m.

Nakhon Pathom was also a secondary royal residence, with the Sanam Chan Palace. Two major attractions just 60 km from Bangkok, making Nakhon Pathom an interesting city to visit for the day or as a stopover on the way to Kanchanaburi for example.

Phra Pathom Chedi, a long history

The history of Nakhon Pathom and its chedi goes back a long way. To the time when Thailand was not inhabited by the "Tai", the ethnic group that has become the majority, but by the Mon (whom I was talking to you about earlier for Ko Kret IslandThe region was then dominated by the Dvâravatî kingdom, which lasted from the 6th century until Khmer domination in the 11th century.

There are many traces of ancient religious sites in the central Chao Phraya basin, from the current city of Ratchaburi to Nakhon Pathom. Nakhon Pathom, whose name is derived from the Pali (ancient Indian language) words "Nagara Pathama", which means "first city". As a result, Nakhon Pathom is sometimes considered the oldest city in Thailand. References to the famous chedi are found in texts from 675 AD, although archaeological excavations have revealed traces from the XNUMXth century.

A section showing the different architectures of the chedi, gradually covered over during renovations.

What is certain, and surprising at the same time, is to know that when the city prospered several centuries ago, it was then located on the seaside, on the Silk Road, between China and India. Due to the sedimentation of the Chao Phraya River, the coastline has moved much further because the sea is today more than 40 km from Nakhon Pathom. This is also the case of the current Ta Chin River, a tributary of the Chao Phraya whose course passed through the city, while the latter is today more than 10 km to the East.

It was these radical topographical changes that would cause the prosperous city to decline. Then under the domination of the powerful kingdom of Angkor, the stupa had undergone a first major design change, covered by a Khmer-style prang. If you want to get an idea of ​​what it looked like, take a look at the stupa of the Wat Prathon Chedi temple, located 3 km from the Prathom Chedi, it is one of the oldest in Thailand, with a square base and a central prang enthroned in its center.

Among the ancient ruins of Nakhon Pathom, you can still visit Wat Phra Men, located right on the edge of the main road, 1 km south of the big chedi.

Shortly after, the city was abandoned, the inhabitants following the river, settled where the small town of Nakhon Chai Si is today and the stupa was invaded by the jungle. It was a few centuries later that Nakhon Pathom was reborn, following the will of Mongkut (Rama IV). The latter had explored the ruins several times during his long monastic period (between 1824 and 1851, the year of his coronation). Having become king, he decided to rehabilitate this abandoned sacred place.

The renovation work, which consisted of covering the existing chedi with a new, more imposing structure, began after the mid-1870th century and was completed by his successor, Rama V, in 17, after XNUMX years of hard work.

A sacred stupa.

A city gradually grew up around it, giving new life to Nakhon Pathom. The chedi reached the impressive height of 127 m, making it the largest structure of its kind in the world. Although this claim is sometimes questioned, the Jetavanaramaya stupa in the ancient capital Anuradhapura in Sri Lanka (which we visited) is sometimes considered the tallest, despite being 5 m shorter than 122 m.

In any case, it is still an imposing stupa, with a circumference of over 230 m. It has become the main attraction of Nakhon Pathom and an integral part of the Wat Phra Pathom Chedi Ratchaworamahawihan temple.

Wat Phra Pathom Chedi Ratchaworamahawihan

Whether from the main road passing nearby, or as soon as you exit Nakhon Pathom train station, you can't miss the size of the noble chedi. The latter underwent its last renovation just 10 years ago, accentuating its majestic appearance. The temple, established as a first-class royal temple, is located in the middle of what has become an important crossroads in the city, forming a square of about 500 m on each side.

The restoration of the site includes the addition of four viharns (chapels) on either side of the chedi. Each houses a statue, the most revered of which is Phra Ruang Rotchanarit, a standing image of the Buddha granting forgiveness, installed in the niche of the viharn located on the north face of the Phra Pathom Chedi. It is at the base of this statue that the royal relics of King Rama V containing his ashes have been placed.

Here, the fervor of the locals is at its peak. Incense perfumes the top of the steps, while the faithful place flowers, candles and stick a gold leaf on one of the statuettes presented for this purpose. Monks are present to collect donations as well as donation boxes and "trees", where people place notes on a "trunk", whose branches are symbolized both by the notes placed on a stick and by the leaf at the end, taking the shape of that of the sacred Bodhi tree.

“Tree” for donations.

Around the cloister surrounding the chedi, there is a group of sculptures, including the guardians of the doors, with rounded shapes. The whole is dotted with greenery, gardens where we come across small chedis, beautiful frangipani trees with superb flowers.

If you walk around carefully, you can even enter a small artificial cave, ideal for meditation. The small alcoves around the base of the chedi contain a gallery displaying hundreds of images of the Buddha in postures representing each day of the week. In a hall to the south, you will see a beautiful reclining Buddha, all gilded.

Every year the Phra Pathom Chedi Festival takes place, which lasts for 9 days, from the 12th day of the waxing moon to the 5th day of the waning moon of the 12th lunar month, the important thing to remember is that it falls in November, so check the dates if you are traveling during this time.

If you want to complete the visit and learn a little more, you have the Phra Pathom Chedi Museum. A small museum adjacent to the chedi, which does not look like much but presents some pieces from the excavations as well as the archaeological archives of the history of the city. The Phra Pathom Chedi National Museum houses artifacts and a collection of objects discovered in Nakhon Pathom, most of which date back to the Dvaravati period.

Concerning the entrance, which is paid for at the base, this is mainly done in the form of a donation, there is no ticket office as such. Finally, as this is a royal temple, proper attire (covered shoulders and legs) is required.

Sanam Chan Palace

The other main attraction in Nakhon Pathom is the Sanam Chan Palace (Sanam Chrandra Palace for English speakers), a series of royal residences. Construction began in 1907 by the future King Rama VI and was completed only nine years later. The reason being that the crown prince visited the Nakhon Pathom chedi frequently, he decided to build a series of residences nearby to suit his personal needs.

The residences at Sanam Chan Palace were influenced by a combination of French, English and Southeast Asian architectural styles and were designed to perfectly complement the area's beautiful natural surroundings. Rama VI used to spend a few weeks each year here, working in peace and quiet, enjoying the grounds surrounding the property, covering an area of ​​135 hectares, with their large trees providing adequate shade and natural lakes for peaceful boating. Relatively rarely visited, the site was also only recently opened to the public in 2003, after being fully restored.

Chaleemongkolasana residence

You will certainly be struck by the look of the first building you will come across, like a sort of castle worthy of Disneyland. This is the residence called Chaleemongkolasana, built in a style intended to recall the architecture of French Renaissance castles, mixed with the style of English half-timbering, all with a certain adaptation to the tropical climate of Thailand.

The view from the residence.

The Chaleemongkolasana Residence is a two-storey building painted pale yellow with a red-tiled roof. Upstairs was the king's private quarters, including a bedroom, study and bathroom. The west room downstairs once served as a waiting room and temporary office for the weekly Dusit Smith Magazine. Rama VI liked to stay at the residence when he attended training sessions for a paramilitary group called the Wild Tiger Corps.

The statue of Ya Lae

In front of this improbable castle, you will notice the statue of a dog, Ya Lae. This is the beloved dog of Rama VI, particularly affected by the death of his pet, he dedicated this monument to him (in addition to offering him a royal funeral with a coffin now on display at the Phra Pathom Chedi museum). For the record, the death of the dog was not natural or accidental but rather a murder… by an employee jealous of the king's excessive affection for Ya Lae…

The Ganesh Shrine

Opposite the Chaleemongkolasana residence and the Ya Lae statue, there is a circular garden (acting as a roundabout in the residence), in its center you can see a structure housing a statue of Ganesh, a Hindu deity with an elephant's head.

Ganesh is worshipped for his power to dispel problems. He is also considered the god of knowledge, art and poetry. This is therefore not an insignificant choice because King Rama VI was passionate about art and himself composed poetry, plays and translations into Thai of some of Shakespeare's classics such as Romeo and Juliet. The Ganesh sanctuary was placed so as to be in line with the Phra Pathom Chedi.

The Ganesh sanctuary.

Mareerajaratabulung Residence

Inside Chaleemongkolasana, you can access the 2nd floor, which opens onto a covered walkway, suspended over the lake, which is actually a canal surrounding the gardens. This leads you directly to the Mareerajaratabulung residence, added in 1916. The two-storey golden teak wood structure is built in a European neo-classical style.

Gateway.

Mareerajaratabulung Residence.

Thub Kwan Residence

The area after the wooden walkway is made up of several Thai-style houses made of teak wood and on stilts, called the Thub Kwan Residence. His Majesty King Rama VI had this residence built in order to preserve the art of traditional Thai housing style.

Thub Kwan is a complex that consists of eight houses, distributed in four directions: four main buildings and four corner buildings. The two large houses opposite each other were bedrooms (the king's was on the south side). Another was a reception hall. Opposite the reception hall was a kitchen. The four small corner rooms, located in each corner, served either as living quarters for servants or for storage. All the houses were connected by a central patio, with a large shaded chandelier in the middle.

All the houses and the patio of Thub Kwan were built of golden teak, respecting the traditional method of wooden construction, namely without nails, using only jointing and notching. The eaves and roof supports are made of carved wood. The roof was once woven with palm leaves and lined with clay tiles.

Bhimarn Prathom Residence

The Bhimarn Prathom Residence, also spelled Piman Pathom (which makes more sense if you read Thai), was the first structure to be built in the Sanam Chan Palace. It was built in a primarily European style, but with some Thai design elements such as traditional Thai carvings to suit the tropical climate.

This is the case, for example, of the ventilation panels and balustrades around the upper floor of the building, which feature elaborate Thai carving patterns.

The two-story building contains a prayer hall with a beautiful mural and an image of Buddha. Its location on the upper floor, facing the Ganesh shrine, itself in line with the Pra Pathom Chedi as mentioned above, allowed for the three sacred sites to be paid homage at the same time.

The king's private quarters included a bedroom, bathroom, dining room, meeting room and study room. There is also an audience room and a reception room in the common areas.

Piman Pathom Residence.

Samakkeemukamartaya Hall

Samakkeemukamartaya Hall is a large one-story throne hall. This building is built in the traditional Thai architectural style similar to a classic Thai temple from the outside. Due to its size, the building served several purposes, including a meeting hall for the "Wild Tiger Corps" military unit and a banquet hall.

Classical Thai dance performances called "khon", often telling stories from the Ramakien (the Thai version of the Indian epic Ramayana) were also held here. In addition to the parts open to visitors, part of the complex now houses the deputy governor of Nakhon Pathom province, while the rest forms one of the campuses of Silpakorn University, the equivalent of the Thai Fine Arts School.

Throne room at Sanam Chan Palace.

Nakhon Pathom Covered Market

If you don't know where to eat in Nakhon Pathom, head to the road between the train station and the chedi. You will then come across the covered market area. This is one of the delicious food centers of Nakhon Pathom. It is known for its wide range of fresh produce, meats, vegetables, spices but also for the dishes prepared by street vendors and their carts, which are located around. Among these dishes, there are desserts, snacks, ice creams or fruits like pomelo, a must in this region. A specialty is sticky rice, cooked in bamboo tubes.

Sticky rice cooked in bamboo.

Fruit sellers.

A stall with grapefruits.

Under the covered market of Nakhon Pathom.

This area that can be described as the city center is lined with various restaurants. The one I was testing for example, Tang Hasaeng was the first restaurant in the city to offer roast pork with rice and its sauce, a basic dish typical of Thailand (originating from China). The restaurant has been open for over 70 years with a reputation that does not wane. The decor has changed very little and eating there is like a trip back in time.

The street in front of the old Tang Hasaeng restaurant.

In Tang Hasaeng Restaurant.

Served for 70 years with the same recipe, from generation to generation.

Here you will come across your first rickshaws, Nakhon Pathom being one of the cities still welcoming this means of transport from another time. The rickshaw is a bicycle with a seat at the back to pull a person, a sort of old-fashioned taxi that you can use to go between the chedi and the Sanam Chan palace.

A rickshaw parked on the street near the train station.

Rickshaw driver at your service.

Practical information

Getting to Nakhon Pathom

Given its proximity to the capital, Nakhon Pathom is very well served and you will therefore have no excuse not to go there 😉

The cheapest solution is to take the government buses (lines 83 and 997) leaving from the Bangkok South Bus Station. As a reminder, the bus station, Sai Tai Mai or simply Southern Bus Terminal, is located to the west of the city despite the name, which rather indicates the direction of most buses, making connections with the provinces of the South of Thailand, but also to the west of Bangkok.

The journey costs 40 baht by bus defined as “1st class”, with air conditioning, and lasts approximately one hour if traffic is good. Buses leave every 10 minutes from 4am until 21:30pm normally.

Alternatively, take the 2nd class buses to Kanchanaburi, which leave every 15 to 30 minutes. As these go through Nakhon Pathom, you can ask to be dropped off on the way.

I assure you, these are not old buses like that to make the journey, on the other hand it is a local bus, from another age!

Additionally, there is a minivan service between Bangkok and the Big C (supermarket) in Nakhon Pathom. You can ask to be dropped off directly in front of Phra Pathom Chedi but if ever, the Big C is on the side of the main road that crosses Nakhon Pathom. If you are dropped off there, you will have plenty of taxis (car or motorbike) to take you to your final destination. cost of minivans is only slightly more expensive than normal buses, the journey being 60 baht for an hour's drive as well.

It seems there are also bus options from Mo Chit bus station, which is more easily accessible from central Bangkok.

For the train, you don't have one, but two possible stations to reach Nakhon Pathom! Indeed, there is first of all the main station of Hua Lamphong (soon to be replaced by the new central station of Bang Sue), from where you will have trains to Nakhon Pathom.

But it is also possible from the small Thonburi station, mainly serving Kanchanaburi, but whose train also passes through Nakhon Pathom.

Note that this will just be a stop on the way and not the terminus. From Hua Lamphong, these will usually be trains going south, Hua Hin or Surat Thani often, so pay attention to signs and announcements. Allow 1h30 for a journey cost of only 14 baht, unbeatable! The first train leaves at 8:05 a.m. and then you have regular departures until 22:50 p.m.

The advantage of the train, besides being very inexpensive, is the possibility of walking directly to the chedi from the station, which is only 300 m from the entrance to the temple.

At Bangkok train station.

On the train to Nakhon Pathom (to Hua Hin).

Landscape along the way.

The chedi is really in line with the station.

Cross the canal, and you will pass the market, another 100 m and it is the entrance to the area delimiting the temple.

If you prefer the easy way, you can always take a taxi directly from Bangkok. Given the distance, a taxi from Bangkok to Nakhon Pathom should cost around 2 baht.

You can book these via the search tool below, especially if you want a direct transfer from your hotel or one of Bangkok's airports.

Sleeping in Nakhon Pathom

As such, it is unlikely that you will find yourself sleeping in this city. Given its proximity to Bangkok, most will return to the capital after a day trip, or continue on to Kanchanaburi, as mentioned in the intro.

I am however putting the search tool below, but it is especially the opportunity to mention that if you ever stay in the area in the evening, note that the parking lot surrounding the Phra Pathom Chedi then becomes a night market. You will enjoy local specialties and other street food delights, so dear to Thailand.

In summary, Nakhon Pathon is a place worth exploring. This is a perfect day trip destination for travelers who have already seen most of Bangkok and want to discover a little more of this central region of Thailand. A chance to get a more realistic glimpse of what Thai life is like outside the capital.

And by being curious, we find interesting sites in the region, close to the city in particular like Thana market, or the Wat Sisrathong temple, dedicated to Rahu, god of darkness, where worshipers bring black-colored offerings. It is also in the province of Nakhon Pathom that you have Wat Bang Phra, known for its festival on the sacred tattoo, the Sak Yant.

Sak Yant: everything you need to know about the sacred art of Thai tattoos

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