Pilok: a former mining village in the heart of the Kanchanaburi mountains

Lost in the mountains of Thong Pha Phum district, on the Burmese border, Pilok—and its main village, Ban I-Tong—long lived to the rhythm of its tin and tungsten mines. When the activity ceased, the village gradually revived thanks to domestic tourism.

Today, people come mainly for its unique atmosphere: a small mountain village where you'll meet as many curious travelers as Thai families on a getaway, looking for a bit of fresh air in the heights. Ban I-Tong has its own charm, between quiet alleys, wooden houses and cafes on the edge of the small lake. And if the place itself is discovered quite quickly, it's above all an opportunity to enjoy the surrounding landscapes, between waterfalls, misty passes and panoramas of neighboring Burma.

The history of Pilok and its mines

When it comes to such unusual places, I like to recall the historical context: understanding the past always helps to grasp the evolution of a place.

Although the exact dates remain unclear, it is known that tin and tungsten veins were discovered in this remote region bordering Burma. The first small-scale mining operations were carried out by Burmese prospectors, who then sold their production to the British, then colonizers of Burma.

From the 1940s onwards, the Thai government took a more serious interest in the area and established the Pilok mines, soon joined by several private companies. The area quickly became an important mining centre, attracting workers from all over Thailand and neighbouring Myanmar. Below: in the image on the left, we can see the passage leading to the entrance to the village, taken from the end of the reservoir, while in the image on the right, we can clearly see the Wat Mueang Rae Pilok temple, already present (period photos from the site The Cloud).

It was at this time that was born Ban I-Tong, a boomtown home to several thousand workers. Its name comes from the Burmese nat im taung ("spirit mountain"), a meaning close to Pilok, derived from Thai phi lok ("haunted by ghosts"), in reference to the dangers of the place and the tensions between Thai authorities and Burmese workers which have left several dead.

At the time, due to the lack of roads, the ores had to be brought down to Thong Pha Phum on elephant back, then transported to Kanchanaburi by the River Kwai, just this descent of the river taking two days. Despite these difficulties, the region prospered, to the point that its current name, Thong Pha Phum, symbolically reflects this wealth: thong literally meaning "gold", when Pha "cliff", and Boom "country/region" refers to the mountainous character of this district.

In the 1950s, a dirt road was built to improve transport, then partially paved in the 1980s. But the paradox is that just as infrastructure was progressing, the global tin market collapsed (1985), quickly leading to the closure of the mines. Pilok gradually emptied, becoming almost a ghost town.

The village was never completely abandoned, however: its strategic location on the border allowed it to survive. Also fortunately, at the same time of its decline, a gas field was discovered off the coast of Burma, and a gas pipeline by the Thai company PTT, one of the operators, was built in the 1990s, passing precisely through the Sao Thong Pass, which overlooks the village of I-Thong, where gas infrastructure is now located on the heights of the village.

However, it was not until the 2010s that Pilok experienced a real revival, mainly thanks to the creation in 2009 of the Thong Pha Phum National Park, which then incorporated the surrounding forests, starting the rise of alternative tourism. From a mining village that had almost disappeared, Pilok has reinvented itself and now attracts travelers curious to discover a different Thailand, far from mass tourism.

The atypical charm of Ban I-Tong

A small spelling clarification: the name is mostly written as “Ban I-Tong” (with a capital i), but it can also appear as “Ban I Thong”, or “Ban E-Tong” for English speakers.

Pilok and Ban I-Tong are often confused, but there is a nuance: Pilok refers to the entire mountain range forming a subdistrict of Thong Pha Phum, while Ban I-Thong is the village born at the foot of the main mine. Officially, Pilok includes four villages, but since the other three are on the lake and only accessible by boat, it is mainly Ban I-Thong that has remained associated with the name Pilok.

To add to the confusion, on Google Maps you will also see the mention "Pilok Village", but the location corresponds to another nearby village, "Ban I Pu", located about 3 km before Ban I-Tong.

With its 2 inhabitants, Ban I-Thong should be considered a small town. However, its isolation in the mountains and its modest size, built around a small reservoir, clearly give it the appearance of a village.

One street concentrates most of the local life, lined with houses converted into guesthouses, cafes, and small restaurants. The Thais' attraction to the surrounding landscapes and the winter mist—which has earned it the nickname "city in the mist"—has accelerated this transformation.

While the village hasn't completely lost its identity, the rustic feel of yesteryear is gone, and few visible features remain from the mining era. Just take a look at older images on Google Street View to see the difference: it's striking.

Despite everything, Pilok retains a unique atmosphere that I've rarely found elsewhere in Thailand. And while the architecture isn't particularly prominent (as is often the case in Thailand), many of the houses are still made of wood. Part of this charm also comes from its proximity to Myanmar: it gives the place a distinct cultural identity, perceptible even in the local cuisine, where Burmese influences can be found in certain curries, spicy soups, and snacks sold at the market.

What to do in Ban I-Tong

Even though Ban I-Tong is reduced to a single artery, I've listed here the small points of interest accessible on foot, enough to keep you busy during a stroll in the village and its immediate surroundings.

Ban I-Tong Market

What is marked as Ban I-Tong Market turns out to be nothing more or less than its main street. So, as I said above, it is here that the restaurants, souvenir shops and the whole host of guesthouses that can accommodate all these people are concentrated.

Where the atmosphere becomes more "market-like" and lively is in the small perpendicular street that connects the parking lot at the edge of the reservoir to the main artery. This is where you'll find a string of covered stalls, with everything from Thai and Burmese snacks to clothing and souvenirs. The place is narrow, so it feels crowded on weekends, but that's precisely what makes it charming; it gives it a more lively feel, a far cry from the calm of the rest of the village.

It's precisely at the exit of this alley, which runs alongside the reservoir, that you can see a long wall covered with wooden plaques. Everyone leaves a little note, a wish, or more often simply their name and the date of their stay, before hanging it up. We can see it as a sort of collective guestbook, but in a tangible and decorative version. The result is a rather nice visual patchwork, where memories of passing and declarations of love are mixed.

Because it is important to understand that, according to Thai standards, Pilok is seen as a romantic place: its misty and cool atmosphere during the rainy season, its natural setting of mountains, forests and waterfalls the rest of the time, and more generally, the tranquility that allows you to escape from the pace of big cities.

Couples can enjoy simple moments here, including walks, photos, and, importantly, delicious food at the small restaurants located in the village. With the reservoir providing a photogenic touch, the place is ideal for romantic getaways.

It's true that the reservoir, albeit small, was what caught my eye when I came across photos of Pilok. And even though I wasn't there as a couple (staying with Swiss friends to whom I send my regards!), that didn't stop me from having a good time there. This also allows me to slip in a little information: opposite the reservoir, a sloping street houses a few guesthouses, some of which also have cafes and restaurants. I had a great evening there at the Ko Ko Homestay and Restaurant, small but friendly.

This allows me to slip in a few photos of Ban I Tong in the evening, where the lights and reflections on the reservoir completely change the atmosphere. At mealtime, things are quite lively and the streets are busy, but it calms down pretty quickly. You can really feel that you're in a mountain village: people don't hang around to party, the atmosphere remains friendly but peaceful, and night falls at a leisurely pace.

Pilok Mine

The spot marked as the remains of the Pilok mine consists of a few tin shacks and the now-rusty remains of equipment, machinery, and vehicles used during Pilok's mining heyday. Nothing spectacular, but it's a tangible reminder of the area's mining past, when Ban I Thong still lived to the rhythm of exploitation. Photo right: @23degreesC

Right next to it is a small pool, with at the end what is indicated as the “Pilok waterfall” (Namtok Pilok). In reality, it is more of a trickle of water that flows into the pool, so clearly not a must-see.

Namtok Pilok. Photo credit @23degreesC

Wat Mueang Rae Pilok

We're still in Thailand, so where there's a village, there's a temple, and Ban I-Tong is no exception. To get there, you have to go up to the end of the main street, passing next to the helipad, which is more widely used as a parking lot.

The temple is obviously not ancient, but it is perched on the hillside and decorated with slightly kitsch statues that add to its charm; you can tell it was built with whatever means were available. You climb a staircase flanked by gilded monks carrying their alms bowls, before arriving at the main chedi, surrounded by several smaller versions.

A little higher up, visible from almost the entire village, you can see a statue of a large seated Buddha protected by a multi-headed naga. Classic in its essence, but here the latter stands out with its red color, while the main building has been repainted green... Colors giving an atmosphere that is both offbeat and typically Thai.

The real bonus is the view: from the chedi's esplanade, you have a panoramic view of the temple and the mountains surrounding the village below. I went there at sunrise, with the fresh air and soft light making the moment particularly pleasant.

Noen Sao Thong viewpoint

After passing the temple, you can continue up the road to reach the Noen Sao Thong viewpoint, about 600 meters further on. Located on the ridge, a promontory marks the border, with the flags of Thailand and Myanmar flying side by side. From here, you can enjoy a panoramic view of the mountains of both countries.

At the foot of the promontory, you'll find a small Burmese military post, which adds a special touch to the place. Depending on the mood of the soldiers posted there, Thais like to have their picture taken with them. The advantage is that this spot is easily accessible, on foot, by motorbike or by car, but the road and parking space are limited. On the other hand, I didn't go there myself, but from what I saw, the view remains less impressive than from the other great viewpoint in the area: Nern Chang Suek.

The surrounding area of ​​Pilok

Beyond the village, Pilok is surrounded by spectacular scenery. Between misty ridges, forest-covered mountains, and waterfalls nestled in the jungle, the region offers beautiful opportunities for getaways. Several iconic locations, easily accessible from Ban I-Tong, allow visitors to appreciate this setting at the end of the mountain range.

Nern Chang Suek

Along with Thong Pha Phum National Park, this is truly one of Pilok's major attractions. Nern Chang Suek, literally "war elephant hill" (I have found no source on the origin of this name), is known to Thais as an important military position on the border with Burma, notably housing Border Patrol Police post No. 135.

But its appeal is obviously not in the fact of being able to wander around an active military base (this kind of thing is only possible in Thailand, by the way... Amazing Thailand!). The ridge, located only 2,5 km from the village, faces the vast Tanintharyi region of Myanmar, which stretches south for more than 500 km. It seems that, on a clear day, you can even see the Andaman Sea, about fifty kilometers away.

This spot is more popular at sunset, as it faces due west. But while I was at it, I wanted to try both options by going there at sunrise as well. The difference is clear: at sunset, there are generally more people, some sitting down to quietly enjoy the view. In the morning, it was much quieter.

On the other hand, even though I was there in winter, I didn't get the sea of ​​clouds that is characteristic of the season (at least as we know it in the north of the country). Both moments are equal, it all depends on the mountains you want to focus on in photos: in the morning, the sun rises on the Thai side, which puts the mountains on this side in backlight; in the evening, the light crushes the reliefs a little on the Burmese side, but the colors will highlight it more.

To compare, I'm giving you two views (slightly different angles but it works in the idea!), the first being from the Thailand side, the second from the Burma side, with the morning on the left, and the rendering at the end of the day.

Personally, I preferred the mountains on the Thai side: the reliefs there form a more harmonious landscape, while on the Myanmar side, it seems more "flat". Otherwise, in addition to the military base, there is a small memorial next to the parking lot. It is dedicated to Major General Tawan Ruangsri, a veteran of the Thai army who died in a tragic helicopter crash in 2011 (in another region). It also seems that camping around the base is possible.

View of the viewpoint.

The monument dedicated to Major General Tawan Ruangsri.

To get there, three options:

1. With his vehicle : you can take the small, partially concreted road. Be careful: it is poorly maintained and has deteriorated in recent years, with large potholes. The unpaved sections are flat, but I wouldn't risk it during the rainy season. In the dry season, an SUV is preferable. Otherwise, use the village transport service.
   

   During the climb, on an unpaved section.

2. By local transport : A pick-up service operates from the parking lot at the edge of the reservoir. The return fare is 50 baht per person.
   

   Pick-up to access the viewpoint.

3. Walking : the sloping road mentioned above (opposite the reservoir) continues as a path, which 600 m further joins the road leading up to the viewpoint. There is then a 1,2 km climb to the military base. The path is quite rutted, so it is best to wear good shoes if you choose this option.

The path leading to the viewpoint from the village of Ban I Tong. Photo credit @23degreesC

Thong Pha Phum National Park

The Thong Pha Phum National Park Visitor Center is located 8 km downstream from the village of Ban I-Tong. As is often the case in Thai parks, it also serves as a campground, popular with Thais seeking a cool spot during the winter. Aside from the waterfall, which is included in the entrance fee (200 baht), the main attraction of this area is access to a platform offering breathtaking views of the Pilok Mountains, all the way to Vajiralongkorn Lake below.

Chokkradin Waterfall

Located 5 km from the Thong Pha Phum National Park Visitor Center, it is accessed via a small 2,5 km secondary road that leads to the parking lot. From there, a well-marked 300 m path provides easy access to the waterfall, making it accessible to everyone.

Chokkradin Waterfall is a single-level waterfall about 30 meters high, pouring into a small valley surrounded by forest. What makes it special is its pool, whose indigo tones blend with green depending on the light. With its sandy bottom, it's a veritable little beach in the middle of nature, ideal for swimming. But don't be afraid of the cold: the area is often in the shade, so the water stays cool.

While "Chokkradin" is the transliteration visible on Google Maps, on site you will see "Jok Kradin" written. The name, of Burmese origin, is simply descriptive: "Jok" means rock and "Kradin" means waterfall.

In summary, Chokkradin Waterfall is an easy and refreshing break, but for those who want to go further, the major attraction of the national park remains without a doubt the ascent to the summit of Khao Chang Phueak, reserved for lovers of sporty hiking.

Khao Chang Phueak Mountain Peak

The ascent of this 1 m peak, the highest in the park, is accessible only during the dry season (generally from November to March). The hike follows a path of approximately 249 km, requiring between 8 and 4 hours of walking. The final section, a ridge nicknamed "knife's edge", is narrow and dizzying. While some sections are secured by a rope, the route remains rather reserved for experienced hikers.

Khao Chang Phueak mountain.

This is an excursion that must be prepared in advance: only 60 visitors are allowed per day, with the obligation to book at least 7 days in advance with the park (information, in English, is available on this site with the contact number). In addition to the park entrance fee, there are guide and porter fees. The climb is often organized over 2 days / 1 night, with camping planned either at the summit or halfway through. In short, it's not a hike that you can just take on unexpectedly and takes a bit of time, but it's the kind of hike I'd be interested in doing one day.

Somsak Mine and Tata Glenn's house

I was short on time and wasn't equipped to go there anyway, but if you're feeling adventurous, there's another "visit" nearby. I put "visit" in quotation marks because it's basically a guesthouse, but it was often frequented by curious passersby who came to meet its host: an Australian woman married to a Thai man.

An unusual love story that began in the 1960s when Somsak Setaphanthu moved to Cloncurry, a small Australian town known for its copper and tin mines, to pursue a master's degree in mining engineering. It was there that he met Glennis Germaine White, affectionately known as "Auntie Glenn." The couple married and returned to Thailand to start a family.

Aunt Glenn's house at Somsak Mine. Photo credit Tripgether.com

Somsak opened her own mine, which prospered for a time, while she taught in Bangkok. But with Pilok's decline, the mine closed in 1986, and Somsak fell seriously ill and died a few years later. Rather than abandon the site entirely, Glenn chose to perpetuate her husband's memory by converting the house adjacent to the mine and turning to tourism.

Its strong point? Its homemade cakes, which varied depending on the day and the ingredients available. Getting there remains a real challenge: even though it's only 5 km from Ban I-Tong, the road is particularly damaged and a good all-terrain vehicle is essential. The house adjoins a pond and opens onto beautiful nature. Within the boundaries of the old concession, you can also see a small waterfall as well as a chedi perched on a promontory, 300 m from the house.

Unfortunately, while the guesthouse remains open, it seems that Tata Glenn has finally joined her husband...

On the road from Thong Pha Phum to Pilok

Before starting the climb, I can already mention three stops, two of which are classic Kanchanaburi stops, located before the intersection between Route 323 and Route 3272, which branches off towards Pilok: Sai Yok Noi Waterfall, the Hellfire Pass Museum, and a little further on, Pha Tat Falls (น้ำตกผาตาด). The latter are part of the Khuean Sri Nakarin Dam National Park, the same one that houses Huay Mae Khamin Falls, a lesser-known alternative to Erawan.

I won't dwell on it further here because the following focuses on the possible visits from Thong Pha Phum, in the direction of Pilok.

Wat Tha Khanun

I'm starting this section with a slight exception, as Wat Tha Khanun isn't directly on Route 3272 leading to Pilok, but rather along Route 323. Since it's barely 500 meters from the intersection, I don't consider it cheating to include it here. Especially since it can also be reached from Thong Pha Phum by crossing a suspension bridge over the River Kwai.

Already, it's impossible to miss the large white seated Buddha that dominates the road: surrounded by two rows of seated golden Buddhas, it's really like a billboard indicating the presence of a temple, encouraging you to stop at Wat Tha Khanun.

White Buddha at the "back" entrance of Wat Tha Khanun.

But that's not the point. As is often the case with me, I don't recommend going to a temple just to see "a temple": there are so many in Thailand that you need something of particular interest to justify a stop.

There are several here, but personally, it's mainly for its golden chedi perched on the hill, called Chedi Phuttha Chethiya Khiri, also clearly visible from the road. The climb requires a bit of effort, but the view is well worth it, with a 360° panorama. At the top, in addition to the chedi, there is a small glass pavilion housing a golden Buddha and a platform allowing several viewpoints over the valley. On one side, there is a view of Thong Pha Phum and the whole thing is surrounded by the surrounding mountains.

Below, the main enclosure unites the viharn and an adjoining gilded chedi, in a classical but striking style. The other important building is annotated "Sala 100 Years Luang Pu Sai," a memorial pavilion containing the mummified body of Luang Pu Sai, a revered monk who helped revive the temple after its abandonment.

Vajiralongkorn Dam

Shortly after Thong Pha Phum, you come across the impressive structure that creates one of Thailand's largest lakes: the Vajiralongkorn Dam (formerly Khao Laem Dam). Contrary to what you might imagine of a large dam, it's not a curved concrete wall but an enormous embankment of compacted rock that blocks the valley. When you think of the millions of cubic meters held behind it, it's almost disconcerting to see a construction that seems "simple," like a huge embankment of pebbles.

The main road crosses the top of the dam, offering views of the lake stretching as far as the eye can see on one side, and the valley below on the other. You may encounter macaque monkeys perched on the railings, always on the lookout for a snack from tourists—a guaranteed atmosphere, although it's best not to leave anything lying around. Another unique feature of the place: a second road leads back down the enormous dike, making it a rather unique experience to "drive" over the dam, offering other viewpoints of the structure along the way.

At the foot of the dam, just across from the hydroelectric power station, a vast flower garden changes color with the seasons, with well-tended flowerbeds and a "Vajiralongkorn Dam" sign that attracts visitors for souvenir photos. I know there is also a "skywalk" nearby, but I doubt its value since its location only gives a view of the plain at the foot of the dam.

At the foot of the dam.

The shores of the lake and the Phra That Bo Ong Chedi

Taking Route 3272 back to Pilok, you cross a small pass amidst karst formations before driving along Lake Vajiralongkorn for about ten kilometers. I recommend turning right as soon as you see a small intersection after the pass: you'll quickly find yourself at the water's edge, with a magnificent view of the lake, the hills in the background, and the floating houses scattered along the shore.

The red earth of the soil contrasts sharply with the green of the surrounding vegetation, creating a photogenic setting. Several floating guesthouses are located there, also offering the possibility of organizing a boat trip.

If you have the time and are a bit resourceful, it's possible to reach the village of Bo Ong, part of the Pilok subdistrict, by boat. This Karen hamlet (the majority ethnic group in the region) is best known for its small chedi, the Phra That Bo Ong, perched above a rocky outcrop surrounded by a pond covered in water lilies.

I already mentioned this site in my article on Sangkhlaburi, since it is one of the visits linked to Vajiralongkorn Lake. It is therefore logical to mention it here as well, as it is accessed from the same banks near the dam.

Vajiralongkorn Lake Viewpoint

Last stop before the final climb to Pilok (17 km further), a small roadside parking lot offers a beautiful panorama. From here, there is a clear view of Vajiralongkorn Lake in the distance, with the Pilok Mountains as a backdrop.

It's a simple but pleasant viewpoint for a photo opportunity. Be careful, however: between February and April, the heat and pollution from burning often make visibility poor, completely obscuring the landscape.

How to get to Pilok?

From Kanchanaburi, you must first join Thong Pha Phum (140 km, about 2–30 hours drive). From there, count on another 70 km on road 3272 to reach Ban I-Tong, at the end of the road.
The road is winding and steep in some places, but it remains in good condition until the village. In the rainy season, you just have to drive carefully, without any particular difficulty.

• No direct bus : Pilok is too isolated to be served by conventional public transport.
• Local transport : the alternative is a songthaew (collective pick-up) from Thong Pha Phum. According to the information available, there would be 5 departures per day between 10:30 a.m. and 14:30 p.m., from the outskirts of the Thong Pha Phum Fresh Market (look for the yellow pickup trucks). The fare is approximately 70 baht per personPlease note: the return journey is only the following morning, with departures every half hour between 6:30 a.m. and 8:30 a.m. → it is therefore compulsory to spend a night there.
• Personal vehicle : This is the easiest option. An SUV is not essential to reach Ban I-Tong, but it is preferable if you plan to explore the surrounding area on your own, especially to access the viewpoint of Nern Chang Suek or to more damaged roads.

Where to sleep in Pilok

Finding accommodation in Pilok isn't as easy as elsewhere in Thailand. Since the village remains primarily a destination for Thais, most guesthouses are booked via Facebook or by calling a number found on Google Maps directly. This isn't particularly convenient for foreign travelers.

During my stay, I chose the Pilok MyHome, which was then the only hotel available on an international platform like Agoda. Simple but friendly, well located in the heart of the village, it remains a safe bet to avoid booking hassles. This is already a good argument but in addition to that, there was a balcony with a nice view and above all, not insignificant, its own parking!

Note that since then, a second hotel (ปิล๊อกพอเพลิน – Pilok Por Ploen) has also appeared on Agoda, which now gives two “easy” options to book.

Since it's limited and can fill up quickly, I'm giving you an alternative. It turns out that two other people joined this stay two months after my initial booking. So I had to look for other rooms and ended up finding and booking through a Thai website that offers an English interface: Choowap. This allowed me to book at Baan Klang Mok Homestay, another local address without going through Facebook.

Baan Klang Mok Homestay.

Practical information and advice

Best season: Pilok is best visited between November and February, during the cool season. This is when you'll have the best chance of seeing the famous sea of ​​mist at sunrise. In the dry season (March-April), it's lighter and warmer, but the scenery remains pleasant. In the rainy season (May-October), access can become more difficult because of the road, but it's still doable.

Temperatures: even if the average altitude is “only” 800 m, we are definitely in the mountains → nights can be cool between December and February (especially by Thai standards, below 20 °C). Remember to bring a sweater or a light jacket, which is not necessarily a reflex when traveling in Thailand.

Crowds: Pilok is a popular spot on weekends and during Thai holidays. Many families come to enjoy the village's cool, romantic atmosphere. If you want to stay overnight, it's best to book your accommodation in advance: guesthouses are few and far between and fill up quickly.

Pilok in a few words

If you want to visit Thailand like a Thai, then Pilok is an experience not to be missed. No need to look for a series of attractions: the appeal lies precisely in the atmosphere and isolation, that little taste of elsewhere that you don't find in more well-known places. Pilok is just a street, colorful houses set around a reservoir, and a mountain backdrop that reminds you that you're at the very end of Thailand. It's not a detour for everyone, but if you like remote corners, the road is definitely worth it.

Similar points can be found there Sangkhlaburi, another border town in Kanchanaburi province, perhaps better known than Pilok. But while the two share a similar geographical setting, the experience is very different: Sangkhlaburi seduces with its Mon Bridge, its lake and its cultural mix (see my dedicated article here), while Pilok charms with its isolation and mountain village feel. Two destinations, two totally distinct atmospheres.