Chiang Mai: 10 temples to discover outside the old city

Chiang Mai, nicknamed the northern rose Thailand, as it is nicknamed, is not immune to the profusion of temples scattered throughout. If I specify "outside the old city", it is because here I will not be talking about the temples located in the central square, delimited by the moat and the remains of the old wall: the historic center of Chiang Mai deserves an article in its own right.

I will also not talk about Doi Suthep, undoubtedly the most famous temple in Chiang Mai, which I have already presented in detail here (because it is not just a temple).

The idea here is rather to take you to discover 10 temples located around the city, all accessible within a radius of about fifteen kilometers. Temples that are sometimes little-known, unusual or striking in their style, and which are clearly worth the detour if you want to complete the visit of the must-sees in the center.

The 10 temples on a map

To help you find your way around, here's a map showing the locations of the ten temples mentioned in this article. It's a quick way to see which ones are near the city walls and which ones are aligned along the southwest axis of the city.

Tip: Click on the icon at the top left of the map to display the list of temples and the possible route.

Around the ramparts

Staying close to the old city, around the ancient walls, there are already several interesting temples. They are easily accessible on foot or by a short tuk-tuk ride, and allow you to discover a wide variety of styles: ancient chedis, Mon community or even the spectacular Silver Temple.

1- Wat Chet Yot (Phra Aram Luang)

I had never mentioned Wat Chet Yot before, a temple I had visited quite a few years ago, before losing its name and location... It was only recently that I got my hands on it again, and as it is located a stone's throw from the center - less than a kilometer from the Maya shopping center, on the Doi Suthep road - I thought it had a place in this selection.

Built in the 1441th century during the reign of King Tilokkarat (1487–XNUMX), Wat Chet Yot — also called Wat Photharam Maha Vihara or referenced as Phra Aram Luang on Google Maps — is a royal temple whose main building features unusual architecture.

Already, it is not a viharn in the classical sense, but rather a hybrid stupa, designed with an accessible prayer room. Surmounted by seven towers (chedis), it gives its name to the whole (Chet Yot literally meaning “the temple with seven peaks”). Their silhouette also evokes incense sticks, which is expressed in the Thai name: Phra Stup Chedi Wat Chet Yot (พระสธูปเจดีย์ วัดเจ็ดยอด).

Its architecture combines several influences: Indian (inspired by the Mahabodhi Temple in Bodh Gaya, India, known as the place of Buddha's Enlightenment, which we visited a number of years ago), but also Lanna, Lao and Chinese.

The stupa's exterior walls are covered with sculptures and bas-reliefs, some of which are still well preserved and demonstrate the fine detailing of the work. A vaulted passage, reminiscent of the tunnels of Wat Umong, which I discuss later, provides access to the interior, where an imposing golden Buddha statue is located.

Around the central building are several classical structures: a more recent rectangular ubosot (ordination hall), another traditionally shaped viharn, and three secondary chedis. Two are small (one with an octagonal base), while the largest, with a square base, is said to contain the ashes of King Tilokkarat.

2- Wat Lok Moli

Sometimes spelled Wat Lok Molee (a more “English-speaking” variant), this is one of the oldest temples in Chiang Mai, having been founded in the 14th century. It would probably have had the status of a royal temple, although it is located outside the central square forming Old Chiang Mai. Most of the structures visible today, however, are more recent, with some dating back to the 16th century.

This is the case with its centerpiece, an imposing square-based chedi, built in 1527. It is said to contain the ashes of several monarchs of the Mengrai dynasty, rulers of the Lanna kingdom between the XNUMXth and XNUMXth centuries. Each side of the chedi is pierced by a niche housing a statuette of Buddha. At the same time, a viharn was also built, but only the brick base survives. The large viharn seen today in front of the chedi is a contemporary reconstruction.

The history of the temple mirrors that of the city: from 1558, Lanna was dominated by the Burmese for more than two centuries. After a long and destructive war, Chiang Mai was even abandoned for more than twenty years (1775–1797). Wat Lok Moli, like the city itself, then fell into ruin.

It was not until the mid-2003th century that the temple was restored, even though Lanna had already been an integral part of the Kingdom of Thailand for half a century. As for the viharn, despite its “ancient” appearance with its wooden frame reflecting the codes of the Lanna style, it actually dates from XNUMX. Its entrance is guarded by two nagas (mythological serpents) and its facade is adorned with finely carved floral motifs, as well as small scenes illustrating the life of the Buddha.

The main entrance, a large brick gate flanked by guardian statues, is also worth a look. It's a temple often favored by budding Instagrammers, but I must say it still has its charm. Its proximity to the old town definitely makes it worth a visit if you're interested in Lanna architecture and temples.

3- Wat Pa Pao

Wat Pa Pao, which translates as “Temple of the Pao Tree Grove,” is located just outside Chiang Mai’s central square, just one kilometer from Wat Lok Moli. It is not an ancient temple, but it is distinguished by its architecture: it is a Burmese temple, more precisely in the Shan style. Built in 1883 during the reign of the last king of Chiang Mai, Inthawichayanon — after whom Thailand’s highest peak, the famous Doi inthanon — it testifies to the Burmese influence in the region.

By the end of the 19th century, teak exploitation was booming in northern Thailand. Attracted by this opportunity, many Shan workers left northeastern Burma to settle in Chiang Mai and build their own places of worship, including Wat Pa Pao.

Upon entering the compound, one notices a brick wall pierced by arched doors surrounding a large chedi and a viharn. The original wooden building has disappeared and been replaced by a cement building. This one, however, retains the Shan spirit, with its five-tiered roof (pyatthat), decorated with colorful patterns and topped with a golden ceremonial umbrella (hti).

The main bell-shaped chedi is also topped with a hti. At its base, four hybrid mythological creatures, half-lions, half-dragons, watch over the stupa. These same stylized guardians can be found on the small steps leading to a niche where a Buddha statue rests.

During our visit, the place was particularly peaceful. Since examples of Shan architecture are not so common in the city, Wat Pa Pao is worth a visit. And if you like to multiply your visits, note that between this temple and Wat Lok Moli, you can make an intermediate stop at Wat Chiang Yeun, a temple with a beautiful facade, a large white chedi, and a platform at the entrance with a golden Buddha.

4- Wat Si Suphan: the silver temple

If I say “Wat Si Suphan,” its Thai name, it probably won’t mean much to you (it didn’t mean much to me either before I went there!). But if I say “the Silver Temple,” you might have already heard of it. Located just south of Chiang Mai’s Old Town, it’s a truly unique temple.

The silver temple.

Founded in the 2004th century, the complex has undergone several transformations. Its main attraction today is an ubosot (ordination hall) entirely covered and decorated with silver plates, the result of goldsmith work initiated by the temple's abbot in XNUMX and still evolving. On the street leading to the entrance, you can also see craftsmen at work in a small workshop.

A craftsman on the street leading to the temple.

Inside the ubosot, the traditional golden Buddha statue sits alongside unexpected and sometimes surprising motifs: you can go from a giant 1000 baht note with the effigy of King Rama 9, to... a flying saucer (the artist's fantasy?).

The structure generally reflects Lanna architecture, with one cultural peculiarity: women are forbidden from entering the interior. This restriction, linked to ancient beliefs about purity and the preservation of sacred places, persists to this day.

The Buddha inside the silver building.

Finally, note that the temple regularly offers “monk cats”, these friendly exchanges with monks that can also be found at Wat Chedi Luang in the old city. Between 17:30 p.m. and 21 p.m., on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays, it is possible to chat freely with them. Topics vary from monastic life, to the practice of meditation, Lanna culture, or Thai society in the broadest sense… an enriching experience that goes beyond a simple visit to the temple.

Bonus: Wat Chang Kong

I'm including Wat Chang Kong here, located near the sultry Soi Loi Kroh. I'm including it as a bonus because the temple itself is fairly unremarkable and relatively new—and, more importantly, I've only just discovered it, so I haven't been there yet. But since it's only about ten minutes from the old town, it deserves a mention for one special feature: its Buddhist library, the Ho Trai.

This two-story building, built in 1903, blends Lanna, Burmese, and Chinese styles—one of the major donors was of Chinese origin. Murals on the second-story balcony, as well as stucco and carved wood ornaments, adorn the brick and plaster structure.

Photo by Google Maps contributor Thiwakorn.

Southwest axis

Further afield, southwest of Chiang Mai, you can follow a veritable itinerary that links together several major temples. From the grand Wat Suan Dok to the peaceful Wat Intharawat, passing by spiritual retreats and hilltop temples offering beautiful views, this area is easily explored by scooter or songthaew, which you can rent for the day, with the option of combining several visits in the same day.

5- Wat Suan Dok

Wat Suan Dok, whose name means “the temple of the flower garden”, is located along Doi Suthep Road (which does not lead directly to the summit but runs along its base), about a kilometer from Suan Dok Gate, the western entrance to the old town.

Built in the late 48th century on land belonging to the King of Chiang Mai, it was intended to house an eminent monk from Sukhothai. The temple now houses several structures of historical significance: a large XNUMX m Sri Lankan-style stupa with a square base, containing relics of the Buddha, as well as a vast open wiharn (gathering hall) without side walls.

For me, its main attraction is the White Mausoleum Garden, a royal cemetery that preserves the ashes of Chiang Mai's former rulers and nobles. These include those of King Kawila, who reigned in the early 19th century.

The multiple white mausoleums of Wat Suan Dok.

The open hall (without walls) of Wat Suan Dok.

The temple is also closely linked to the history of Wat Phra That Doi Suthep. Tradition has it that a relic of the Buddha, kept at Wat Suan Dok, broke in two (legend has also embellished this version by evoking a magical duplication...). One of the halves was enshrined here, while the other was carried by a white elephant to the summit of the mountain. It was on the spot where the animal breathed its last that Wat Doi Suthep was founded, today the most emblematic temple of Chiang Mai.

Note: the proximity of the airport means that planes can be seen flying over the site, a striking contrast to the calm of the mausoleums.

The airport is not far.

6- Wat Umong Suan Phutthatham

This is a truly unusual temple, not only for Chiang Mai but also for Thailand. To date, it's the only one of its kind I've had the opportunity to visit. Its unique feature? A network of tunnels, built beneath the main chedi, which serve as places of prayer.

Wat Umong.

These galleries, which gave the temple its name (umong means “tunnel” in Thai), were once covered in frescoes with floral motifs dominated by the color red. Their construction was ordered by King Mengrai over 700 years ago, shortly after the founding of Chiang Mai. Wat Umong was intended to house a respected monk, Therachan, who, tired of the noise of the city, was no longer able to meditate. Built on the outskirts and surrounded by forest, it finally offered him the tranquility necessary for his practice.

Prayer in one of the tunnels of Wat Umong.

A monk at Wat Umong.

And this atmosphere is still felt today: Wat Umong remains what is called a “forest temple,” that is, a monastery where meditation is privileged in a natural setting. Yet it is located only 4 km from the central square of the old city, at the foot of Doi Suthep. We almost forget that the airport runway is only a kilometer away.

The history of the temple was chaotic: abandoned from the reign of King Tilokarat in 1487, it remained abandoned for nearly 500 years before being reinvested in the 1940s. Restored in 1948, it is now reopened as a meditation center. In front of the tunnels, we notice a collection of statuettes and fragments of ancient statues, deposited by the faithful to preserve these relics as well as remains of Buddha statues whose provenance I do not know.

Another curiosity is that the site contains a copy of an Ashoka Pillar, dating from the same period as the temple's founding in the 13th century. These pillars, erected in India by Emperor Ashoka in the 3rd century BC, symbolized the spread of Buddhism to Southeast Asia... and even beyond.

Copy of Ashoka's Pillar.

As you wander through the grounds, you'll also come across a meditation center and small philosophical signs hanging from the trees. They offer Buddhist maxims in a shady setting, ideal for strolling or relaxing.

To the side of the site, an artificial pond populated with fish completes the visit. You can feed them, as well as the ducks, birds, and even the deer cared for by the monks. A somewhat unusual touch that contrasts with the meditative nature of the place.

7- Wat Ram Poeng (Tapotaram)

For this 7th temple, we go down a little towards the southwest of Chiang Mai, not far from the airport and Wat Umong which I talked about in my previous article on the temples around Chiang Mai. We are then at the foot of the Doi Suthep mountain, a perfect place to relax in the calm of the tumult of the city, yet not so far away. And that's good, because this temple serves as a meditation center, which also welcomes foreigners, eager to learn the technique of so-called Vipassana meditation.

If you are interested, there is a page with the information in English on their website: https://www.watrampoeng.com/vipassana-information/

The temple was founded in the 1492th century. A stone inscription even allows us to precisely date its creation (despite some sources indicating another year): the third day of the seventh lunar month of the year 26, or July XNUMX (for the curious like me, I established this date by looking at the lunar calendar here).

The main surviving feature of this period is the large main chedi. Although extensively renovated, it still stands after more than five centuries: a circular base topped with several floors, each decorated with niches housing Buddha statues.

The history of the temple is linked to that of King Phaya Yot Chiang Mai (พญายอดเชียงราย). According to tradition, after avenging his father's death in a context of treason, he had a monastery built here as an act of merit. Legend has it that a monk confirmed the presence of relics buried on this site, and it was on this site that the chedi was erected.

In front of the stupa stands the main viharn, surrounded by a covered walkway. Its current structures are recent: work began in 2016, with the teak viharn replacing a modern building constructed with ordinary materials. By returning to wood, the temple regains a more authentic style, faithful to Lanna architecture, restoring prestige and once again attracting worshippers, who, like me, appreciate the elegance of the woodwork.

A little to the east, the ubosot (ordination hall), also made of teak, is also worth a visit. It is entered through a magnificent door topped with a pyramidal sculpture typical of the region. The building, without side walls, houses a Buddha statue carved from stone—a rarer material that contrasts with the surrounding wood and gilding. The complex is completed by a teak corridor, whose gleaming parquet floor contrasts with the rich gilded decorations of the doors.

Uncrowded during our visit, the temple exuded tranquility. Aside from another tourist, a Thai one at that, and the worker at work in the viharn, we only encountered one woman taking advantage of the ambient zen to meditate. Although largely modern, it's nice to see that it respects—or rather, re-enhances—the traditional codes of the Lanna style. A blend that gives it an undeniable charm and fully justifies its place on this list.

8- Wat Phra That Doi Kham

Wat Phra That Doi Kham, literally "the temple of the golden mountain," is often presented as the little brother of Wat Phra That Doi Suthep, as their characteristics are so similar: relics of the Buddha (hence the name Phra That), a temple perched on a hill, and a beautiful view of Chiang Mai. It ticks all the boxes. However, this is not a simple copy and paste: the temple stands out enough to merit its own visit.

On Google Maps it is also indicated under the name Luang Pho Tanjai, in reference to the monumental 17 m Buddha statue which dominates the site.

Less well-known to foreigners but highly revered by locals, it nevertheless has a more ancient history than its famous neighbor. Its foundation dates back, according to some sources, to the 687th century—more precisely, to XNUMX AD, approximately six centuries before the creation of the Lanna Kingdom! Its main chedi is said to date from this period.

Surrounded by a courtyard and cloister reminiscent of Doi Suthep, it was later neglected and abandoned. In 1966, heavy rains damaged the chedi, revealing numerous Buddha statues inside. Villagers rallied together to finance its restoration and revive this forgotten mountain temple.

Beneath the cloister, classical Buddha statues are displayed in various positions. The site remains highly venerated: worshippers come in large numbers to lay wreaths of white flowers before a covered altar, in an atmosphere of prayer and song.

Outside the chedi area, one can admire a richly decorated ubosot, with the stair railings guarded by two nagas mixed with makara, mythological aquatic creatures. Also impossible to miss is the monumental 17-meter-high statue of Buddha, placed at the entrance to the cloister.

The 17 m tall Buddha.

The ubosot of Wat Phra That Doi Kham.

In terms of panorama, the view of Chiang Mai is less elevated than at Doi Suthep, but it has its charm: mountains in the background, rice fields in the foreground, and the pavilion of the Royal Park Rajapruek which can be seen clearly below.

The view of Chiang Mai from Wat Phra That Doi Kham.

9- Royal Park Rajapruek

This is the most recent of all those listed here, but I'm cheating a little because it's not a temple in the classic sense of the term. Indeed, no monks live here, but in the heart of the park stands the Ho Kham Luang Royal Pavilion, the true centerpiece of the site, which incorporates all the architectural codes of religious buildings.

These gardens were developed in 2006 to commemorate the 60th anniversary of the accession to the throne of His Majesty King Bhumibol Adulyadej (Rama IX, who died in 2016). The following year also marked his 80th birthday.

The entrance already sets the tone, with a wide driveway lined with hedges and well-trimmed pine trees. At the end, we see the royal pavilion, erected on a vast raised platform surrounded by statues and carved motifs, which highlight the building and accentuate its palace-like appearance.

The park was originally named the International Exposition for His Majesty the King. Since the king had worked hard for the country's agricultural development, the Royal Park also served as a research center for culture and agriculture.

The garden is divided into several zones. One example is the Thai Tropical Garden, which showcases the country's plant diversity. Another zone is the "King's Gardens," where Thai government departments and the private sector showcase their floral creations inspired by the royal principles of agricultural and landscape management.

There is also a greenhouse dedicated to more delicate flowers, while outside, a collection of tropical plants and trees is arranged around a small artificial river. Depending on the season, you can admire a wide variety of plants and flowers.

Further into the park, a monumental driveway leads to the foot of the pavilion. Access is via a wide staircase framed by undulating white balustrades, punctuated by sculptures and gilded ornaments. The building's slender silhouette echoes the codes of Lanna architecture, with its richly decorated, multi-tiered teak roof.

The path leading to the royal pavilion with Wat Phra That Doi Kham perched on the hill above.

The interior, supported by imposing golden columns, impresses with its refined decor. The black walls are adorned with colorful frescoes and floral motifs. Display cases along the walls feature an exhibition dedicated to the life and achievements of King Rama IX, a reminder that the pavilion was designed as a tribute to the sovereign.

From the outside, the building rises amidst a vast pond and impeccably arranged flowerbeds, providing a setting worthy of a palace. With the mountains as a backdrop and Wat Phra That Doi Kham visible on the hill, the ensemble creates one of the most photogenic panoramas in Chiang Mai.

The park also hosts many events, particularly for New Year's Eve or during celebrations of Loy Krathong in November (which coincides with the Yi Peng festival). But the most notable is undoubtedly the flower festival, which runs from December to February, an ideal time to visit Chiang Mai and the site.

As an aside, I was able to visit it for free back then, after simply asking for my ticket in Thai… I doubt that would still be possible today. At 200 baht entry, even without any real interest in botany, it remains a beautiful photogenic place — and in time, it will undoubtedly end up becoming “historic.”

10- Wat Intharawat (Wat Ton Kwen)

Last but not least as our English-speaking friends would say, the Wat Intharawat, better known locally as Wat Ton Kwen, is considered an exceptional example of classical Lanna architecture. It is located further south, in the Hang Dong district, not far from Royal Park Rajapruek - whose central pavilion is directly inspired by this viharn.

In addition to the prayer hall, the complex includes a U-shaped corridor surrounding the main building, as well as a cruciform pavilion, unique in northern Thailand. This serves as a mondop, a building intended to house relics or religious objects, whose symmetrical architecture refers to Buddhist cosmology (I'll come back to this shortly).

On the roof of the mondop, stucco ornaments depicting nagas can be seen on the weathered wooden tiles. Their highly stylized heads are almost reminiscent of the figures found in Bali, with eyes encrusted with colored glass. These sculptures, both decorative and symbolic, recall the protective role of nagas in Buddhism: watching over the temple and warding off evil spirits.

The “mondop” pavilion.

Its appearance is deceptive, as the viharn is not particularly old, having been built in 1857 (during the reign of Rama IV, then king of the neighboring Rattanakosin Kingdom), with the addition of the cross-shaped pavilion the following year. But it is unanimously praised for its exquisite workmanship, to the point that historians believe it was probably the work of royal craftsmen.

In 1989, it was even recognized by the Siamese Architects Association as one of the most remarkable pieces of architecture in the country. You see, I don't choose my temples lightly!

As I mentioned, the layout of the place obeys a cosmological symbolism: the viharn represents Mount Meru, the center of the universe, while the gravel courtyard surrounding it symbolizes the Srithundorn Ocean. This aspect has remained intact since its creation, a rare occurrence at a time when many temples replaced earth floors with concrete, in order to avoid the discomfort of mud during the rainy season.

Architecturally, the viharn has a three-tiered roof at the front and two at the back. The upper part and columns are made of teak wood, as is common in northern Thailand. The interior retains wall paintings that are now very faded, as well as posts decorated with gilded motifs. In the background stands the main statue, a seated Buddha, also gilded.

Overall, Wat Intharawat stands out and remains popular with Thais. Not only because it's considered a Lanna-style masterpiece, but also because it regularly serves as the setting for historical television series. Despite this prominence, the site was surprisingly quiet during our visit (no doubt helped by the pandemic).

Note that opposite the courtyard is a green space dotted with houses on stilts. One of them seemed destined to become a cafe or a small restaurant, but it was still closed during our visit.