Wat Tha Sung , its generic name, which I am referring to today, is also known as Wat Chantharam . It is one of the main attractions of Uthai Thani province, a region located 200 km north of Bangkok.
The must-see temple in Uthai Thani province
I mentioned it in the introduction, Wat Tha Sung is certainly one of the major attractions of Uthai Thani. This is the very reason why I was personally interested in stopping in this province until then ignored by my "radars" of interest.
The temple boasts a unique architecture, both inside and out, earning it several nicknames in addition to its two official names. For a long time, I myself referred to it by one of these nicknames: the Temple of Mirrors. This remains an "unofficial" nickname, as it is more commonly known as the Crystal Temple , or, as I knew it previously, the Glass Temple. All these details clearly illustrate what makes it such a special temple.
A short history of Wat Tha Sung
Its modern history began under the impetus of the venerable monk, Luang Pho Ruesi Ling Dam. Indeed, the original temple, dating back to the Ayutthaya period, was then a small, somewhat sleepy and forgotten temple on the banks of the Sakae Krang River. The monk succeeded in attracting people by transforming the site initially into a meditation center, and since it was renowned for this, the temple subsequently developed into a complex housing some architectural marvels, attracting ever-growing numbers of visitors.
This successful gamble has made Luang Pho Ruesi Ling Dam a true local star, and the site's popularity has led to the temple expanding on both sides of the road. However, during its heyday, Wat Tha Sung remained just one of many relatively modest temples. Its real boom began less than 10 years ago, around 2013. The complex now includes several areas, including a park for practicing meditation in a natural setting, as well as a school.
The buildings making up the temple
What strikes you from the first time is that you feel the significant size of the temple. Today, the part on the river bank, still hosting a small historic ubosot, is only the tip of this iceberg that is this major religious site. The bulk of its space is now located on the other side of the road. Imagine, the temple now covers more than 50 hectares (I have even seen the mind-boggling figure of 80 hectares!), expanding by buying up neighboring land as and when development needs arise.
Spaces for meditation
This area includes various buildings as well as a park, and even a small forest in the back. You can walk for 3 km and still be in the temple.
And to do so, you can use the surrounding wall, which is built around the main buildings and the park, as a patrol path, perfect for indulging in meditation (well, if the latter were 100% finished). All along, hundreds of three-meter-high Buddha statues are lined up.
Viharn Kaeow: The Glass Chapel
It is the "centerpiece" of the temple, yet the first time I even had trouble finding the (narrow) entrance to what is nevertheless one of the main buildings making up the temple, the Viharn Kaeow (วิหารแก้ว).
- sanctuary ou "viharn" in Latin = prayer room, Chapel
- glass ou "kaeow" = (the material, but also refers to the container)
You now understand the origin of the nickname of the temple. But why this name exactly? When you enter the great hall (pay attention to the opening times, see below), you will understand immediately. The Wow effect is guaranteed. It feels like seeing a kind of hall of mirrors, without the gilding and finesse of the details but still.
The Viharn is a long, 100-meter-long building covered in tiny mirrors everywhere. On the pillars, on the ceiling, adorned with crystal chandeliers, everything sparkles brilliantly, including our eyes. As we become accustomed to this shimmering light, we begin to take an interest in what lies within. And on one side, often crowded with worshippers praying, is a glass bell jar, displaying the mummified body of the venerable Luang Pho Ruesi Ling Dam , who died in 1992.
It is common in Thailand to exhibit monks in this way, if they are particularly recognized as masters of meditation. Moreover, if Wat Tha Sung has become a leading monastery, it is thanks to the influence and tenacity of this monk to share his knowledge. This large room was also inaugurated in 1987 by King Rama IX himself, proof of the importance of the temple obtained at that time.
On the other side, you notice an altar that displays a Buddha statue. It might look like just about any style to you, but it is actually a replica of the Phra Phuttha Chinnarat (พระพุทธชินราช), a representation of the famous Buddha, which is located at Wat Phra Si Rattana Mahathat in Phitsanulok and is considered one of the most beautiful in Thailand.
Prasat Thong Kham: the golden castle
Another building worth seeing is the Prasat Thong Kham. You will have to walk a bit to get there if you are without transport, although there are often (more on weekends) local tuk tuks to get there. It is actually only 700 m away, heading left as you exit the large glass hall.
You will first walk along a park, which you will see bordered by the famous enclosure wall and its Buddhas. You will also pass in front of a large standing Buddha holding an alms bowl, wedged between two wings of a building that is part of the Wat Tha Sung complex.
As you approach the square-based structure, rising like a pyramid, you'll realize that this is Prasat Thong Kham. Its overall appearance closely resembles Loha Prasat, an annex to Wat Ratchanatdaram in Bangkok. It features chedis adorning each roof above the windows, and three stories, the top floor of which houses a Buddha statue, visible here in a style typical of Sukhothai (standing and "walking").
To give an idea of the time scale. This building in particular was intended as a gift to celebrate the 50 years of Rama IX's reign. Started in 1996, the exterior was only completed in 2018. When I first came, the ceilings were not yet 100% complete with their gilding and the electrical outlets remained without switches for the lights.
Now the interior finishes are being applied, including the floors, which are currently closed to visitors. This structure, which takes up the codes of an older "castle", similar to Loha Prasat, is also resolutely "modern" since the latter includes a battery of devices to control the hydrometry, important to help conserve the building.
The interior is also sparkling, but has a different atmosphere. Here, it is all about gilding and seems more elaborate if you take into account the figures on the posts and doors. This is also because at present, the whole thing is empty. Only a few safes that can accommodate donations as "furniture. In front of this "pyramid", you have a place at the end, another building, white and more sober, whose function I do not know, because I have always seen it closed.
Other buildings
In addition to the main buildings, which are the main thing to see at Wat Tha Sung, you can come across other buildings with secondary functions or used to accommodate lay people who come to practice meditation (who, incidentally, seem to be mainly, if not exclusively, women).
The watchword for the overall architectural style seems to be "silver and shiny," as this is evident on quite a few structures. There is also a standing Buddha right in front of a small U-shaped building, and the whole thing is a real curiosity to see in the area.
Location and area of Wat Tha Sung
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