Chumphon Province It often appears as a mere stopover on the way south. Many travelers pass through without really stopping, especially on their way to Koh Tao in the Gulf of Thailand.
And yet, its 150 km coastline It holds many pleasant surprises: long, almost deserted beaches, small secluded bays, viewpoints, seaside sanctuaries, and many still relatively undeveloped areas. I'm far from having seen everything the province has to offer, but what I have seen during my travels appeals to me precisely for that reason: coastlines that are still wild, unspoiled, and full of charm.
Chumphon is also known, especially among Thais, for its islands and seabed, particularly around the national park of Mu Ko ChumphonIf you have a somewhat flexible itinerary, this could be an interesting stop to break up a journey to southern Thailand.
What to do and see in Chumphon
Obviously, the goal here is not to give you an encyclopedia of unmissable places in Chumphon, but suggestions for stops that give an overview of what the Chumphon coast has to offer, particularly through those I have seen during my various visits.
To give some context, the genesis of this article occurred after our descent towards Ranong, as I was going to the passage to Kawthaung in Burma regarding my visa issues.
But Chumphon, a province nestled between land and sea, had plenty to offer to entice me to spend some time there. While I'm focusing on the coastline here because time constraints prevented us from straying too far from the main route, Chumphon is also mountainous, with dramatic landscapes and waterfalls, and truly deserves a thorough exploration.
Tham Thong-Bang Boet Beach and the sand “dune”
After our departure from Bangkok early in the morning, the large Bang Boet beach (indicated as Tham Thong-Bang Boet Beach on this specific section), marked our first stop of the day, after about 5 hours of driving.
We still had almost 200 km to go to reach Ranong, which was only the first stage of our current journey in southern Thailand.
When planning this trip, I had spotted this beach as well as the term Noen Sai Chumphon, literally “sand dune”. So I was curious, because I had simply never heard of dunes in Thailand. I obviously wasn't expecting a local version of the Dune du Pilat, but it was still intriguing enough to warrant a stop, since it always feels good to stretch your legs.
On site, nothing was set up. There was a sign indicating the dune, but no (or no longer any) clear path to get there properly. In addition, the weather was gloomy, so I stopped quickly, especially since Jitima wasn't keen on climbing on the sand.
It remains, nevertheless, a small local curiosity and I encourage you to take a look because I know that since my visit, improvements with a beautiful wooden walkway leading to the beach have been added.
The dune borders the middle of this immense beach which stretches for more than 8 km. If you go to Bang Boet, you will see rocky headlands typical of the region at each end, and apart from a few small resorts in the far north, the whole area remains largely deserted.
It's truly the kind of place where you still get a real sense of space. It's just a shame, as is often the case, to stumble upon some barbecue remnants and litter left by inconsiderate visitors.
Wat Kaeo Prasert and Thong Maha Bay
The next stop wasn't very far, as we simply continued along the coastal road for a few kilometers before reaching the Wat Kaeo PrasertThis small temple mainly attracts Thai visitors, largely due to its hillside location with a beautiful view of the Thong Maha Bay.
As is often the case during our travels in Thailand, we participated in the life of the place by making a donation, before receiving a blessing from a monk, curious to know where I came from (I imagine that few foreigners pass through here).
Like many other temples in the country, the site evolves over time, precisely at the pace of donations, while here we came across ongoing work on the hillside.
This also helps to keep the place alive: by adding new structures, it provides work for local people on construction sites, while offering visitors the opportunity to discover a temple that is not totally frozen in time.
There was also a unique café (what would Thailand be without its coffee breaks?), housed in a building shaped like a huge tree trunk. From its terrace, you could enjoy the panoramic view of the bay. And that was, in fact, the main reason I had come here.
Admittedly, the weather was grey, but the view was exactly what I expected. The bay has a rather unusual configuration, with a sandbar covered in vegetation in the foreground, then in the distance a rocky cape and island duo — Ko Wiang — in the middle of the bay, all largely bordered by mangroves.
You will find other viewpoints as you walk around the temple, since there are several platforms offering views of the bay and its surroundings.
I know that one of the islets in the bay houses a small Buddhist shrine, while a rocky outcrop called Ko Sikong, hidden by Ko Wiang, is a renowned snorkeling spot in the area. Given the setting, I'd gladly return, preferably in good weather.
Ban Chak Beach and Khai Nao Private Beach
Afterwards, we made two stops in quick succession, some 27 km further south of the temple. I had spotted a cove typical of the region, nestled between two rocky peaks bordering the coastline.
I had some doubts while following the dirt road via GPS and arrived at the entrance to a small palm plantation. A worker (or so it seemed) was nearby, so I asked him if I could access the beach; as he seemed rather indifferent, I went ahead with my plan.
The land along the beach was cleared, with scattered coconut palms giving the place a wonderfully wild feel. I wouldn't particularly recommend this beach as access is still somewhat private, but at the very least, it shows the kind of coves you can find here, as there are plenty of others along the Chumphon coast.
I would cite two examples:
- Arunrak Beach : near the temple mentioned just before, it is a small cove lined with bungalows, but which seems accessible to the public.
- Thung San Beach : clearly a public beach, just like its neighbor.
After this brief stop, I arrived just a little further on the beach marked today as Khai Nao Private Beach, then known as "Coral Beach".
It was around 15 p.m., so definitely time for lunch. Given the coastline we'd been traveling along for quite a while, we figured we absolutely had to find a restaurant by the sea. But paradoxically, it was so deserted that the choices were actually quite limited in this still rather wild area.
Looking at the map, I came across the New Nordic Coral Beach Resort, thinking there would probably be something to eat there.
The area was under construction at the time, and the whole place seemed very quiet, not to say downright empty. At the time, it didn't necessarily give the impression that we were going to be able to eat there, but in the end, we were.
The meal wasn't exceptional, but the setting with the beach and surrounding cliffs was nice. However, the whole place was a bit neglected, and the gray weather didn't really do it justice. What we didn't know at the time was that barely three years later, the New Nordic company went bankrupt (embroiled in a dark story of real estate scam…; the hotel has closed, but the beach remains accessible.
Krom Luang Chumphon Khet Udomsak Shrine
Located not far from our hotel, this monument stands on a promontory at the end of Sairee Beach. It pays homage to Admiral Krom Luang Chumphon Khet Udomsak (1880-1923), the 28th son of King Rama V, considered the father of the Royal Thai Navy.
Trained in the United Kingdom, he played a significant role in modernizing the Thai navy and professionalizing its officer corps. Shortly before his death, he became its commander. His memory remains very much alive in the country, and even more so in the province to which his name is closely linked.
The shrine is now very popular with locals, who come to leave offerings and pray. It's well worth a visit, if only for the view of Sairee Beach and the very local atmosphere. Below, you can also see an old Royal Thai Navy shuttle boat on display.
Note that this site is located only a few kilometers north of Thung Makham Noi Beach, departure point for Lomprayah company catamarans heading to Koh Tao.
To give you an idea of how revered this admiral is in the region, there is another shrine an hour further south, north ofArunothai Beach, with yet another lovely view of the shore and the islets in the bay.
Khao Dinsor Viewpoint
A small stop that I made later in relation to the main visits mentioned in this article, but which fits perfectly into this coastal theme of Chumphon.
As always when I plan my trips, if I see interesting spots that don't require a big detour, I gladly include them as soon as the time allows. That day, we had just stopped for lunch in the pretty bay of Bo Thong Lang, located in the neighboring province of Prachuap Khiri Khan (also a beautiful province), and rather than returning to the main road, we had stayed on the small roads close to the coast.
An hour and a half's drive along country roads, lined with coconut palms and scattered houses, led us to the foot of the small hill where the viewpoint is located. The narrow road that climbs steeply to the parking lot at the top.
People were "watching" the place once they were up there, and I saw them noting down license plate numbers... I don't really know why, but what is certain is that from the parking lot, you already have access to the main platform with the basic viewpoint of Khao Dinsor.
The site is perched on the heights, with a very clear view of the coastal landscape. Two cove beaches are particularly visible: Saphli and Thung Wua Laen Beach.
Next to the platform is a sculpture of a bird of prey. And for good reason, Khao Dinsor (which translates to "pencil hill") is a very famous area in the country for birdwatching during the raptor migration season, from September to November.
Many people come to watch the birds, which can cross the Chumphon sky by the thousands. This gives Khao Dinsor an added appeal beyond just the view. That's also why there's a small "Birds of Prey Center" next to the parking lot, which also has clean restrooms.
There's also a hike to do, with a first intermediate platform near the parking lot and a second one further on, apparently requiring a 45-minute walk. I didn't try it: I didn't have the time and, in any case, there weren't any birds of prey around.
Khao Matsee Viewpoint
If I go back to the "original" timeline, this was our last stop before continuing our journey out of Chumphon province. And for the same reason as before, when I see "viewpoint" displayed somewhere, I rarely want to miss it.
This viewpoint is located at the end of Pharadonphap Beach, the beach where the hotel we stayed in this time was located.
From this small hill, easily accessible by road, one can enjoy a very beautiful panoramic view of the coastline, both to the north and to the south.
On the north side, you can see the long beach of Pak Hat; below, the small island of Ko Mattaphon, accessible at low tide via a sandbar; and on the other side, the village of Pak Nam with its fishing boats.
In the distance, you can also see the hills that close the horizon towards Ranong. There are a few more facilities and amenities than in Khao Dinsor, and therefore more people passing through. There's also a café with a terrace where you can enjoy the view.
In short, it remains a fairly simple point of view, without frills, but which visually summarizes the coastal charm of Chumphon very well.
Nong Yai Wooden Bridge
Since we had just slept in Chumphon the night before, I was looking for a nice little place to visit nearby before hitting the road again. It was the mention of the wooden bridge, in the title, that first caught my eye, and right next to it, another bridge described as a suspension bridge, with deer to see (well, stags and does, but in English they don't distinguish between them since it's just "deer").
Knowing the lady's affection for animals, that's why I decided to include this visit. The area encompasses a conservation project managed under royal patronage, the Nong Yai Area Development Project Under Royal InitiativeWe are changing the focus a bit from beaches, temples and viewpoints, with a site more geared towards walking and landscaping.
The site is organized around a body of water alongside a wide canal that flows into the sea in Ao Phanang Tak Bay, 6 km away (so we're not straying too far from the coastal theme of this article). I didn't really know what to expect, so it was a complete discovery.
During my reconnaissance, I had seen that it was normally possible to park right by the suspension bridge to observe the deer directly. But once there, since there was no one on the road leading there, I instinctively just followed the car in front of me, which parked in the first parking lot I came across.
We started our walk from there, first heading to a sort of island where employees were busy maintaining this vast area. It was early morning, so it wasn't hot yet, but the humidity was already noticeable. From what we could see, this island serves as something of a "laboratory" for plant research projects.
We arrived at the first section of the bridge just after. Although it was February, the sky was surprisingly grey that day, but the view was still very pleasant, with beautiful reflections of the vegetation surrounding the lake.
After a few hundred meters, we arrive at another intermediate island, before reaching another small bridge, with a curious configuration in the middle. There we see a circular platform, with stairs leading down to a low area near the water.
The map of the entire site, visible just on the other side of the bridge, indicates this particular spot as "Nature Study Trail"... I wouldn't know any more than that.
Just after this passage, we saw a row of five wooden cabins on stilts. Judging by their general condition, it was clear they were abandoned, but we were curious to know what they were used for. Jitima then asked some employees who were cutting the grass on the steps of the large building next door.
They explained that the structures had been built over 20 years ago for nature observation, and that the question now was whether to demolish them or preserve them through renovation. Jitima supported the idea that they should be kept, as they possess a vintage aesthetic that complements the site, even suggesting they be converted into bungalows for rent for weekend getaways in the great outdoors.
The building at the foot of which the employees worked can be used as a reception hall, while events are sometimes organized in this natural space.
After this brief stretch "on land," we were back on a wooden boardwalk, which runs alongside a wetland where I'd seen a few birds, and where we finally spotted the famous deer of this kind of reserve. Reaching the edge of a small wood, we saw a group of stags and hinds, along with a few fawns. This was also where we encountered the most people, as we were close to the parking lot I'd originally planned to use.
Several vendors offer bags of food to feed the animals, who do not hesitate to get wet to get closer to their benefactors of the day.
All that remained was to cross the suspension bridge that had originally brought me here, and there, just as I'd suspected, I saw Thai people parking on the road directly on the other side. By the time we got back to the car, we'd completed a leisurely loop of just over a kilometer, which took us about 45 minutes.
Just as we were returning to our parking lot, a small group of tourists arrived on scooters; as soon as I heard them speaking French, I couldn't resist offering a friendly "bonjour." Even in unlikely places like this, I always manage to run into French people. Later, while the crowd was mostly Thai, we also encountered other foreigners passing through, curious like myself, and others who were probably locals, choosing this designated area for a jog around the lake.
Chumphon, a coast that deserves a closer look.
This overview is necessarily partial, but it already gives a good idea of the province's tourism potential. There's still so much to see; there are plenty of other beaches, more secluded bays, and, of course, the islands of Mu Ko Chumphon National Park, which are among the area's major attractions.
Not to mention the entire mountainous land area, with nature and waterfalls, in short, an underrated province that I would gladly return to, while many pass through it without really giving it the attention it deserves.
Where to stay in Chumphon
The Nouveau Chumphon Beach Resort & Golf
Budget: from €64
During our long trip through southern Thailand, we wanted to stay in a nice hotel for our stop in Chumphon. I then spotted the Chumphon Beach Resort (then managed by Novotel) right on the beach, at a rather attractive price. Since we don't often have the opportunity to stay in this kind of establishment, it seemed like a good deal.
It is located opposite the small island of Ko Samet (not to be confused with the one off Rayong) and roughly halfway between the Admiral's Shrine and Khao Matsee Viewpoint, therefore isolated, it's best to have a vehicle.
Euro Boutique Hotel
Budget: from €12
On our later return to Chumphon, we stayed right in the city center this time, so we wouldn't have to take the car out again to find somewhere to eat. Don't be fooled by the misuse of the term "Boutique Hotel," as it's just a simple, low-end city hotel.
For what we needed and within our budget, it was perfect: simple but clean and well located, with parking (an important point for us).
Getting to Chumphon
Without going into all the details here, here are the main options for getting to Chumphon:
- The train The city is located on the main southern railway line. This is a convenient option for getting here from Bangkok without driving.
- The aircraft Chumphon has a small airport with flights from Bangkok (Don Mueang). Two airlines offer regular flights. Thai Air Asia et Nok Air.
- The bus Several companies provide service from Bangkok to Chumphon, both day and night.
- By car The drive from Bangkok takes approximately 5-6 hours, depending on traffic and your starting/ending point. This is obviously the most flexible option if you want to explore the coast at your own pace.
To easily compare bus, train, ferry or transfer journeys, you can take a look at the search engine below.
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2 Comments
hello, thanks for this article on Chumphon. as you seem to point out, there is potential…. I really like this region, I live there 9 months a year and I discover new things every day…
I don't know if you know my website or if I talk about it.
Hello.
Hello,
I have already come across your site yes! I put your page aside, I already knew some sites that I spotted and planned to visit, the rest will help me explore the region later.