Chumphon: A Glimpse of Thailand's Wild Coasts

The province of Chumphon stretches over 150 km, bordered by Burma and Ranong province on one side, and the coast of the Gulf of Thailand on the other. Many tourists also pass through there without necessarily knowing it, because this is where the closest quay is located to go to and return from Ko Tao, which is around sixty kilometers away.

Often ignored, Chumphon is also renowned for its islands and seabeds rich in coral. In particular those making up the Mu Ko National Park Chumphon. This makes it an ideal stopover to break up a trip to the south of Thailand and enjoy mostly deserted and wild beaches.

What to do and see in Chumphon

To be frank, the idea here, as the title of the article implies, is not precisely to answer this question, because I am far from having sufficiently explored the region. No, it is indeed an overview of what this beautiful province has to offer, by simply showing you the sites that I was able to visit during my stay. descent to Ranong, as I was going to the passage to Kawthaung in Burma (my visa stories).

Otherwise, there would still be plenty of things to mention, because besides the beaches and the islands, you can walk in the border mountains, and cool off at some waterfalls. It is certainly less vast than in the neighboring province of Ranong, and more modest in height than its “cousins” to the north, but it is there, so we still have a “mountain” and sea mix that is always appreciable.

Tham Thong-Bang Boet Beach and the sand “dune”

We left early that morning from Bangkok and Bangalore beach Boet marked our first stop of the day, after a 5 hour drive. We then had only 200 km left to reach our first stage of this journey in southern Thailand, namely, Ranong.

It was then time to stretch our legs a little and for that, I had spotted this beach and the term Some Leaves Chumphon/ Sand dune. Some Leaves being in Thaï and Sand Dune in English, I was doubly sure that we were talking about sand dunes. Afterwards, if I put a quotation mark, it is because we should not expect the dune of Pilat. But I was curious, because I had simply never heard of dunes in Thailand, the winds being quite rare (apart from thunderstorms) and the sea conditions not being conducive to these natural formations.

The deserted road along the sea in this area.

We feel the attempt to promote this place...

On the dunes of Chumphon.

Yet this dune of Chumphon would be old since its formation dates back to the post-ice age period more than 10 years ago. If from the photos that I have seen there seem to be some nice spots in terms of photography, the latter is unfortunately not really highlighted. Although there is a sign indicating its presence, I did not see a path to access it properly, even though I stopped there really quickly. The weather was gloomy, and on top of that, Jitima I couldn't be bothered to climb the few meters of sand, so I couldn't really linger there, but let's just say it remains a local curiosity.

As for the beach, it is very large since it stretches over more than 9 km! At each end there is a rocky peak and outside some small ones resorts at the very north of the beach, the rest is mostly deserted. Afterwards, it's always a shame to see the disrespect of people who come to have barbecues. (according to the burn marks that can be seen) but don't pick up all their trash...

The large beach of Bang Boet, north side.

Looking at the south side of the beach.

Wat Kaeo Prasert and Thong Maha Bay

Our next stop wasn't very long since we continued along the coast for another 7km before stopping at a local temple, Wat Kaeo Prasert. This small temple tends to attract a few people (only Thais) because of its position on a hillside with a view of Thong Maha Bay.

As is usually done on every trip to the country, we took advantage of this passage to make a donation and received a blessing from the monk, curious to know where I came from.

View of the temple when arriving from the road.

And like any temple, this one is constantly evolving, adding buildings and Buddha statues as donations flow in. There is also a café attached to it, nestled in a building wanting to look like a huge tree trunk, un The terrace at the top also provides a view of the bay.

This is made up of several islands which can be visited (Ko Yor, Ko Pa, Ko Wiang, Ko Kai and Ko Ranpadrankai in particular). From the pictures I've seen, it looks pretty good and the spots snorkeling The area looks really full of colorful corals. I definitely plan to come back and explore this area one day (in good weather and when I have time, but after all, that's why this article is just a "preview"). In addition to the bay itself, there are a few small coves like Secret Beach or Thung Yang Beach, at the end of which there is a small cave (Malagor).

View of the bay from the temple, too bad the weather was very overcast.

We casually stayed at the temple for a good 45 minutes before getting back on the road.

coral beach

Before taking a break in Coral Beach, some 27 km further south of the temple, I stopped for a short while in a cove that I had spotted. If we did go there, it is actually a private access (there was a plantation of palm), the gate was open, because a guy (owner or staff) had just entered. If we were indeed allowed to see the beach, I prefer not to specify here where it was. On the other hand, he y not far from the beach Thung San which possibly deserves a look and public access.

It was then around 15pm and therefore more than time to have a bite to eat. And given the coast, we thought that we absolutely had to find a restaurant by the sea. The choices were still quite limited, because it is ultimately a fairly wild area. Looking at the map, I saw a hotel, the New Nordic Coral Beach Resort. I thought, rightly, that the latter would have plenty to eat.

The view from our table.

Coral Beach.

A piece of the beach.

The area was under construction and the whole thing looked quite deserted. At the time, it didn't seem like we were going to be able to fill our bellies there. But in the end, yes, it was good. There was a small restaurant next to the beach and the swimming pool. In fact of resort, the whole thing is more like apartments that are intended as second homes to rent out when the owners are not using them. Jitima Being so curious, we quickly found ourselves chatting with the staff, with a brochure of the site, in case we were interested...

In the end the setting could be better because it lacked maintenance, in addition, the always gloomy weather did not do justice to this small beach surrounded by cliffs.

Krom Luang Chumphon Khet Udomsak Shrine

Located close to our hotel (see below), it is a monument built on a promontory at the end of Sairee Beach, in memory of Admiral Krom Luang Chumphon Khet Udomsak (1880-1923). He was the 28th son of King Rama V (who, as a reminder, had 77 children!), and is considered the father of the Royal Thai Navy, the Thai Royal Navy. To train, he spent six years in the United Kingdom studying at the Royal Naval Academy.

Upon his return to Siam, he held several important positions in the Royal Thai Navy. He is known for modernizing the navy and creating a professional officer corps. He became Commander of the Navy in 1922 shortly before his death on these shores. Apart from his naval studies, the Prince is also known as a herbalist, a boxer and a lover of artistic painting. The anniversary of his death, May 19, marks Royal Thai Navy Day.

The shrine is widely frequented by locals who always show respect for members of the royal family who played an important role in the modernization and evolution of the country. They therefore come regularly to meditate at this type of sanctuary, to make offerings and to pray. The visit is worth it if only for the view of the beach of Sareee and enjoy a purely local atmosphere. In addition to the sanctuary, you can see a Royal Navy shuttle there. Thai Navy exhibited below, which was used to patrol the area in the past.

For the record, this site is located just 7 km north of Thung Makham Noi Beach, from where the Lomprayah company catamarans leave for Koh Tao.

Khao Matsee Viewpoint (จุดชมวิวเขามัทรี)

Our last stop before going back up and leaving the province of Chumphon. And when I see somewhere posted " viewpoint", I rarely fail to take a look at it. This viewpoint is located at the end of Pharaohphap Beach, the beach on which our hotel was located.

Pharadonphap Beach from Khao Matsee viewpoint.

The long beach of Pak Hat on the north side of the viewpoint.

The small island of Mattaphon from Khao Matsee Viewpoint.

The view of Pak Nam.

From the small hillock, accessible via a road, you can admire the view while sipping a coffee on the terrace of the establishment located there. On the north side, you will have a view of the long beach of Pak Hat, below, you will see the small island of Ko Mattaphon (เกาะมัตโพน) which is accessible on foot at low tide via a sandbank leading to it.

Behind you will have a breathtaking view of the village of Pak Nam, where the fishing boats are stationed and you will see in the distance the mountains separating the province of Chumphon to the one of Ranong.

Chumphon, to be continued…

This overview, however brief it was, already gave a good idea of ​​the tourist potential of the province. There are still many beaches that I have not seen and above all, all the islands that are part of the Mu Ko national park Chumphon, who make as many spots snorkeling and for some, also allow you to rest there for a night cut off from the world.

Definitely a region where he I will have to come back and explore this in more depth!

Where to sleep in Chumphon province

Novotel Chumphon Beach Resort and Golf

Getting to Chumphon

Since the purpose of this article is not to go into detail, I will just mention the modes of transport to access Chumphon :

• Le train : The town being located along the line going down to the Malaysian border, there is a railway station. count 9 hours from Hua Hin Station Lamphong in Bangkok for a cost of 900 ฿ (€30).
• The aircraft : there is a small airport in Chumphon, served in particular by the low-cost airline Air Asia. The cost is interesting since you can find it for less than €35, which is barely more than the train and the journey only takes 1h30. There is only one daily flight from Bangkok leaving from Don Muang at 17:15 (and arriving at 18:45).
• The bus : for Sai bus station Tai May (Southern Bus Terminal) located west of Bangkok, you will have bus departures going to Chumphon. If you can get some directly from Khao San, the latter are not only often subject to theft, but their terminal is more the quay of Lompraya to then go to Ko Tao that city.
• By car : if you rent a car, allow at least 5 hours of driving to reach Chumphon province from Bangkok. Join the Rama II road and follow the national 35 to reach the road number 4 which goes down towards the South.

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