Header image: Gerrit Phil Baumann, CC BY 3.0 License, via Wikimedia Commons
Let's be clear, attending a Thai boxing match (locally called Muay Thai) can be a memorable experience during a stay in Thailand. Some might rightly think "oh no, I'm not interested, it's violent, I don't like combat sports".
While I can't deny the violent nature, we mustn't forget that Thai boxing is also a part of Thai culture that therefore has its place in a "cultural visit", just as we would go to a museum or attend a religious ceremony or other. I myself surprised myself by going there and enjoying the evening without seeing the time go by.
Muay Boran, the “old” boxing
While the origins of the discipline remain unclear, it is generally accepted that the sport had a military origin, with Thai boxing having been a close combat technique first practiced by kings, particularly to settle disputes. It was later imposed as compulsory training for soldiers towards the end of the 16th century.
The sport became popular in the 18th century, when it was widely practiced and fights were organized in villages. It is said that the king himself sometimes came to challenge local champions incognito.
One soldier and boxer in particular was even elevated to the rank of hero after his exploit against the Burmese soldiers following their capture of Ayutthaya. As a prisoner, he participated in a tournament and defeated 10 of the enemy's best fighters. Impressed, the Burmese king stood up and applauded the valiant warrior who was then freed and contributed to making Thai boxing a national sport.
Fighters still pay tribute to this warrior, Naï Khanom Tom, today on the occasion of "Boxers' Night", held every year on March 10.
Thai boxing, an art
Thai boxing involves a series of processes and ceremonies that make the sport more of a cultural event than a simple demonstration of strength.
Respect and pre-match prayer
- The Wai Khru : the "Wai" is the greeting, in everyday life, when Thais meet, they do not shake hands but make a "Wai". A greeting gesture by joining both hands, which depending on the person will be practiced in a certain way depending on the respect to be shown (it is a whole protocol linked to life in a very hierarchical society in Thailand, in particular the respect for elders or monks for example). The Wai Khru in the context of Thai boxing, is a mark of respect towards the trainer first. The fighter will then kneel and bow 3 times towards him. The first wai is actually intended for his trainer and mentor. The second, Buddhist country obliges, is intended to respect the Buddha and finally the last, marks respect towards the king.
- The Ram Muay : literally the "boxing dance", it is a kind of dance with the appearance of a "mock fight". Each school normally has its own style of Ram Muay. The purpose of this dance is primarily to warm up.
- The Mongkon : this is the accessory worn during the entire pre-match ritual, it is a kind of headband supposed to bring luck (hence the nickname blessed headband). The Mongkon is removed by the coach just before the start of the match.
- Music is also an integral part of a Thai boxing match. Both during the ritual and during the match, a group of musicians who use a set of cymbals, drums and Javanese flutes play live and adjust the rhythm according to the actions during the match.
The whole thing takes place in a generally overexcited atmosphere, with each spectator encouraging their favorite by shouting at each blow landed on their opponent. This makes the experience quite unique where you frankly don't see the time pass.
Although the sport was originally particularly brutal (it was even banned for a time in the 1920s), it was subsequently codified by adopting the codes of English boxing, particularly in the use of gloves, victory by points or KO.
Muay Thai is a form of boxing using feet, elbows, knees. It is a very complete and technical sport that is becoming more and more popular.
Where to watch a Thai boxing match in Bangkok?
Here are some ideas:
- For the more shy : You can always get an idea of what a boxing match looks like by watching the matches broadcast every Sunday on Thai TV channel 7, starting at 14:15pm. The other option is Friday on channel 24 (True4u), broadcast from 18pm to 20pm.
To be at the heart of the action : there are 2 main stadiums in Bangkok for Thai boxing, the Rajadamnern Stadium (also spelled Ratchadamnoen Stadium) and Lumpini Stadium (also spelled Lumpinee but it's going to change its name anyway, see below).
The ticket price is between 1 and 000 baht (for foreigners). Note that it is a fairly long event, usually between 2 and 000 hours, because it is a series of many different matches, depending on the categories and ages of the participants. In addition, the matches are traditionally held in 3 rounds.
The matches start with the youngest (usually still teenagers) and the champions come at the end (normally the most interesting fights), just to encourage people to stay until the end.
Rajadamnern Boxing Stadium
One of the two most important arenas for this sport, in Bangkok but also famous throughout Thailand. It has also become a historical monument because it is the very first stadium dedicated to Muay Thai built in Thailand. The Rajadamnern stadium is therefore the one that I recommend by default, because you will be able to see some of the best Muay Thai fights in Bangkok.
Furthermore, it is easily accessible from the main sites of Bangkok sightseeing because it is not far from the Grand Palais and therefore Khao San Road (barely 2 km!).
Apart from the regular parties, there are frequently international events organised at Rajadamnern. The website is not very "clear" and in English only but you can check the schedule of upcoming fights via the events calendar on the website muay thai 2000.
The stadium has recently undergone a facelift and, above all, a modernization that transforms the evening into a truly unique experience. They've integrated a ceiling with a giant LED screen that projects animations between matches, guaranteeing an immersive experience! However, be aware that, according to their website (See information here(in English), this only happens once in the evening, at precisely 20:10 pm!
At the end of the show, you won't have to go far to enjoy some street food, as vendors will usually be stationed outside the exit! It's also a great place to grab a snack between matches. In any case, you'll have to eat outside, as you won't be able to bring your purchases back in; outside food and drinks are not permitted.
Not a big deal since they now have something to drink and snack on inside.
How much does it cost ?
1 500 bahts For the seats in the "LEO section" (which ultimately offer a better overall view because it's a higher level than the seats around the ring), the low cost is mainly due to the fact that you don't have an assigned seat. It's primarily where locals gather and place bets while shouting at the top of their lungs.
1 800 bahts For the "Club Class" seats, which offer side views, you'll have an assigned seat. Depending on the side, you'll also be close to the drinks and snack service.
2 500 bahts For seats around the ring, perfect if you like to be as close to the action as possible!
VIP areas are accessible from 4,500 baht.
Also, I can add that many gyms in Bangkok are affiliated with the stadium, so if you are training, check with your gym to see if there is a discount on basic (ringside) tickets. You can get your tickets from the official Rajadamnern website and you just need to show up with your confirmation email for entry.
If you have ever fought in this stadium yourself, you will get a 2-year pass to access the stadium and watch the fights for free. Still something.
How to get to Rajadamnern Stadium:
- If you stay to Khao San Road, Rambuttri, or the first streets of Samsen Road, you will only have about 20 minutes of walking.
- If you are in another area of Bangkok, there is no direct public transport, apart from the bus. If you want to test, you have the bus lines 70, 503 and 509 AC which passes in front of the stadium. To help you with transport, I recommend in this case the Moovit app available on Android et the App Store.
- With the opening of the extension of the underground metro, Blue Line (MRT Blue Line), you now have a station just 2 km from the stadium, Sam Yot ruling.
- Otherwise stay the taxi, which should be able to get you there in less than half an hour from the city centre or even less if you take it from one of the skytrain stations in the BTS Sukhumvit Line (Phaya Thai station, Victory Monument, or possibly Ratchathewi). It should cost you less than 100 baht in that case.
New Lumpinee Boxing Stadium
I leave its original name as the title but I should say, goodbye Lumpini, hello Royal Thai Army Sport Centre. But it is less glamorous you will agree, even if we add the annotation Muay Thai Lumpini as it should be, the stadium has lost its aura of yesteryear.
Founded in 1956 by a marshal of the Thai army, Prapas Jarusatien, it is one of the seven standard boxing stadiums in Thailand. It is famous not only for being the origin of the glory of some of the greatest Thai boxers but has acquired over the years a reputation in promoting the art of Thai boxing both nationally and internationally. Its name is due to its original location, facing Lumpini Park, along Rama IV Road, a major artery in Bangkok. The latter was also located next to another mythical place a decade ago now, the Suan Lum Night Bazaar, which I had known as well as the original stadium, from which the illustrative photos of this article are taken (except those annotated).
The original stadium has given way to a large mixed commercial, office and residential complex called The One, still under construction. The latter has been modernized and expanded, but it is therefore located well away from the center, more than 30 km away. Still managed by the army, the latter has, according to the official reason, wanted to put an end to illegal betting by simply prohibiting Thais from entering the stadium... Absolutely... The latter therefore want to privilege access to this stadium only to foreigners... who obviously bring in much more given the price of the tickets than the Thais...
As a result, how can you hope for an "authentic" evening if the shows are only intended for a foreign audience... It will ultimately be just another tourist attraction and will lose the charm of what makes up the atmosphere of a local stadium. As a result, I find it difficult to advise you to go there, the only valid reason being if you are a fan and that on the day in question, the matches are taking place at Lumpinee and not at Rajadamnern.
But just to be complete, I'll give you all the information.
How much does it cost ?
2 000 bahts for the seats around the ring (Ring Side).
Similar to Rajadamnern, you should get discounted rates if your training center is affiliated with this stadium. It is possible to request 2nd and 3rd class seats on site.
How to get to Lumpinee Stadium:
- It is unlikely that you will be staying in the vicinity, however I can point out that the stadium is quite close to Don Muang International Airport.
- If you like taking the bus, you have the bus lines 26, 95, 150, 520 and 554 AC which passes next to the stadium on Ram Inthra Avenue.
- This is where we see the benefits of an expansion of the metro network in Bangkok, with the extension of the BTS Sukhumvit Line, you now have a station less than 2 km from Lumpinee Stadium, Wat Phra Sri Mahathat stop.
- Otherwise stay the taxi, either a nice one with a meter, otherwise keep it simple by ordering a Grab Whichever option you choose, you should be looking at a good hour's drive given the heavy traffic in this part of town. It should cost you less than 300 baht (not counting any tolls if he takes the motorway) on the way there, it should be a little cheaper on the way back because there will be less traffic jams.
Channel 7 TV Studios Stadium
I mentioned it just above, every Sunday at 14:15 p.m. there are matches which take place in the studios of the national television channel CH7 (belonging to the royal army).
Well, know that the studios are open to the public!
After Lumpinee Stadium and Ratchadamnoen Stadium, this is the 3rd most important stadium in Bangkok. You will therefore be entitled to intense, authentic matches, in an electric and purely local atmosphere, all for free!
In recent years, the stadium has attracted more and more tourists, attracted by the possibility of watching free matches and, in addition, being close to the famous Chatuchak weekend market.
Many take a look and walk out after a few games, because this freebie also comes with discomfort. The stiff seats, the deafening shouts of the hoarse-voiced punters and the view that is likely to be blocked by the horny ones who prefer to cheer on their champion while standing make the experience exhausting for some.
There are chairs towards the front, considered VIP seats, but they are not free (normally 300 baht) but I doubt you will find any free unless you come well in advance.
In absolute terms, if this local atmosphere appeals to you, plan to arrive an hour in advance.
NOTE: Since it is broadcast live on national television, the studio is attentive to the attire of the spectators (and in particular tourists). So if you plan to try this experience, plan for men, a shirt or possibly a polo shirt (no t-shirt). For women, You must wear a dress (no mini-skirts), have your shoulders covered and wear closed shoes. Otherwise you will be turned away or, failing that, forced to buy on the spot at a price that is obviously unfavorable to you.
MBK Fight Night (Maah Boon Krong: The All-Purpose Store!)
After being paused for a while, following renovations to the department store, it is once again possible to attend demonstration matches on the first and last Wednesday of the month between 18pm and 20pm, at the MBK store (National Stadium station of the BTS).
The big advantage is that it's FREE to access! You just need to show up on the G Floor (street level floor).
Rangsit Boxing Stadium
New to this updated list, it is not the first one to come. Because this very local stadium and well known to purists, was created in 1962 on the outskirts of the city (at the time). It moved several times but remained in the vicinity of Rangsit before settling in its current location in 1985. Despite its somewhat old-fashioned appearance, this stadium is as much appreciated by fighters looking to make a name for themselves as by the more famous ones, who respond present to the show every Friday evening.
Because since its reopening after the March 2020 lockdown, the stadium has been the center of a TV show called "Muay Man Wan Suk" (wan suk meaning Friday in Thai). Presented by a big name in Muay Thai (Petchyindee if you're familiar), the weekly show attracts the great champions who normally fight at the two main stadiums of Rajadamnern and Lumpinee. Due to its conditions, there is a bit of an American "show" side, but with a Thai twist.
Its main drawback is its location, which is out of the way and subject to traffic jams in the evening.
How much does it cost ?
1 500 bahts for foreigners (1 baht for Thais who are entitled to the VIP area).
Note that the ticket includes two coupons for free drinks.
How to get to Rangsit Stadium:
- It's unlikely that you'll be staying nearby either, but Rangsit Stadium is also close to Don Muang International Airport. Alternatively, you could take a van from Victory Monument to Future Park, for example, and walk the 1m to the stadium (it'll be a good workout).
- You can take a bus by stopping at Makro in Ransit, as there are many choices, I will not list them all but give you the link Makro Rangsit judgment, where are marked at the bottom of the tab on the left, the different lines stopping there.
- The simplest option obviously remains the taxi or Grab This should also cost you less than 300 baht (not including any tolls if motorway).
World Siam Stadium
Last of the stadiums, here is the WSS, a stadium born from the collaboration between veterans of the Muay Thai industry both foreign and local. As such, the stadium plans to offer both Muay Thai fights but may include other specialties like MMA.
The fact is that it was created during the beginning of the pandemic and to date, it has only been able to host two major events. While it has received good reviews for its atmosphere and show management, it currently has nothing scheduled.
Photos taken from their Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/worldsiamstadiumWSS/
How much does it cost ?
They offer an attractive price starting from 1,000 baht.
How to get to Word Siam Stadium:
- You can take a bus by stopping at The Mall Bang Kapi, located next to the stadium, along Lat Phrao Road.
- The option to date remains the taxi or Grab Also watch out for traffic jams, which are especially important in this area as it is under construction. The good news is that soon there will be a metro stop because the work concerns the addition of the MRT yellow line, which passes through this artery.
Bonus: Thai boxing on video
To help you get an idea of what a Thai boxing session is like in a stadium, here is a video I took during my visit to Lumpinee Stadium (at its former location):
And as a complement, a clip from the Thai rock group “Bodyslam” depicting the daily life of 2 young boxers in the making:
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21 Comments
Very good idea this article, the next time I go to Bangkok a Thai boxing match really tempts me… should I book the places in advance? So it is better to come 1h to 2h after the start of the tournament to really enjoy the atmosphere, because 4h of boxing can seem a bit long…
Thanks Amélie, it's generally not necessary to book, although I imagine that on evenings featuring renowned champions there might be a larger crowd, but unless you know the boxers' names, it's hard to say whether certain fights are more or less important. Well, theoretically, it's not possible to arrive partway through the evening. Furthermore, as I mention in the article, in practice, at first glance, when you do think 4 hours is a long time, you don't notice the time passing, you get caught up in the excitement and the atmosphere, and I honestly didn't have a moment to be bored.
Hello!
Is it possible to book a ticket online for a boxing match and print it?
then, is visiting the temples of Bangkok really necessary in French? because the prices double! (but at the same time I don't want to take a 15 hour plane ride to not understand what I'm seeing)
Good day!!!
Hello,
It is indeed possible to book online, I have just added the information to the article, see the link here.
The prices double because it is difficult to find French guides, law of supply and demand… I know what I am talking about, I offer guided tour services myself! If you are really interested in history and your level of English is not sufficient, I am afraid I do not see any alternative. Answering the question “is it really necessary” is not really my area of expertise, personally I rarely visit monuments with a guide and simply find out on the Internet to understand what I am going to see or have seen. If you are used to doing this then I suppose the answer is yes 😉
Have a nice day too, thank you!
Great, thank you very much. I am slowly making progress in organizing my honeymoon and what advice could you give me to go to the Talin Chan market while staying in Bangkok?
It all depends on how you want to play it, if in "easy" mode, just take a direct taxi (don't forget to confirm that it has the meter), if in "local" mode, you can get there by taking bus #79 in front of Central World (Chidlom skytrain station). Note that this market only takes place on weekends.
Hi,
I just discovered your blog, and enjoyed your article on Mua Thai 🙂
We are currently in Koh Samui (Lamai beach) do you know if there is a place where we could watch a match?
Khop Kun ka
Hi,
Yes! To do this you have to go to Chaweng Beach, just to the north and go to the Hat Chaweng Boxing Stadium 😉
Have a good stay !
May Pen Rai Khrap
Hello,
I am currently in Thailand and would love to see a Muay Thai fight.
I looked for Bangkok but there are none on the days I'm there (September 9,10,11,12, XNUMX, XNUMX, XNUMX). Maybe you're more aware?
Otherwise I am in Ayutthaya currently and until September 4 and after in Kanchanaburi (September 6,7,8).
It would be great if you could help me find that.
Thank you and good day.
Hello,
I don't know where you looked to find match dates, but if I look on the website of one of the stadiums in Bangkok (see here), there will be matches on September 9th and 10th! Enjoy 😉
Hello,
I discovered your blog very recently, and the information provided is very interesting! I just went to see a match in the Chang 7 "stadium", it was great I highly recommend it to anyone who wants to see the atmosphere of a match with a stadium filled mostly by locals.
I have a question: in your article, you say that there are matches on the first Wednesday of the month at noon, and elsewhere on the internet I saw that it was the 3rd Wednesday of the month? Do you know if there is a number where we can call to check the information (even if we have to speak Thai)? Because I looked and I didn't find it. Thanks again!
Hello,
Thanks for your comment, no need for a number 😉 It was me who made a mistake, it is indeed the 3rd Wednesday of the month! It is corrected on the article, thanks again for pointing out the typo!
Hello Romain,
Many thanks for all this information!!
My husband is particularly fond of combat sports and we would like to see one. But in addition to that, he would like to be able to train with locals. Friends had told us that this was possible (one of them was even given a pair of Thai boxing shorts).
Do you know of any places where visitors could "train" with locals in Bangkok?
Thank you in advance for your help,
Siham
Hello,
Thanks for the comment and compliment! I don't know any particular training center but if the end goal is to be surrounded only by locals, not sure you'll find an instructor who speaks English...
Hello,
While searching for information on boxing matches in Bangkok I just came across your article.
We would like to attend the boxing match at Rajadamnern stadium next Wednesday 11/02.
Do you think it is necessary to book seats in advance online? Which area do you recommend? Is the 1000B area enough to fully enjoy the show?
Thank you bcp for your advice
cordially
Jessica
Hello,
It is usually not necessary to book in advance, however if you want seats in front it is preferable. Since you mention the 1000 baht one, there are usually enough seats without needing to book since that is where the Thais pile up and get excited with bets. After that I have only been to one party, it was at Lumpini and in front, but I think that even at the back the atmosphere is just as strong.
Hello, I'm on your blog, and I booked my tickets for the Rajadamnern stadium for an evening on Sunday, April 21st, when I go to Thailand. It says 6:30 AM / 11:00 PM. Do I have to arrive at 6:30 PM, or is it okay if I arrive at 8:00 PM?
Thank you for your blog…
Hello, normally it's fine if you arrive at 20pm, as long as you have a ticket.
Hello, great yes I have my tickets, they are bought in advance....
Hello, I am planning a trip to Bangkok for August 2022. I would like to know if the Channel 7 TV studios stadium will welcome the public again at this time (with Covid, no public was accepted as of June 2022)?
Hello,
I admit that I don't have any more information on this subject, if the matches have resumed, I can't find out if the public are accepted... The safest remains the Rajadamnoen stadium which is operating a priori as before.