Header image: Gerrit Phil Baumann , CC BY 3.0 , via Wikimedia Commons
Let's be clear, attending a Thai boxing match (locally called Muay Thai) can be a memorable experience during a stay in Thailand. Some might rightly think "oh no, I'm not interested, it's violent, I don't like combat sports".
While I can't deny the violent nature, we mustn't forget that Thai boxing is also a part of Thai culture that therefore has its place in a "cultural visit", just as we would go to a museum or attend a religious ceremony or other. I myself surprised myself by going there and enjoying the evening without seeing the time go by.
Muay Boran, the “old” boxing
While the origins of the discipline remain unclear, it is generally accepted that the sport had a military origin, with Thai boxing having been a close combat technique first practiced by kings, particularly to settle disputes. It was later imposed as compulsory training for soldiers towards the end of the 16th century.
The sport became popular in the 18th century, when it was widely practiced and fights were organized in villages. It is said that the king himself sometimes came to challenge local champions incognito.
One soldier and boxer in particular was even elevated to the rank of hero after his exploit against the Burmese soldiers following their capture of Ayutthaya. As a prisoner, he participated in a tournament and defeated 10 of the enemy's best fighters. Impressed, the Burmese king stood up and applauded the valiant warrior who was then freed and contributed to making Thai boxing a national sport.
Fighters still pay tribute to this warrior, Naï Khanom Tom, today on the occasion of "Boxers' Night", held every year on March 10.
Thai boxing, an art
Thai boxing involves a series of processes and ceremonies that make the sport more of a cultural event than a simple demonstration of strength.
Respect and pre-match prayer
- The Wai Khru : the "Wai" is the greeting, in everyday life, when Thais meet, they do not shake hands but make a "Wai". A greeting gesture by joining both hands, which depending on the person will be practiced in a certain way depending on the respect to be shown (it is a whole protocol linked to life in a very hierarchical society in Thailand, in particular the respect for elders or monks for example). The Wai Khru in the context of Thai boxing, is a mark of respect towards the trainer first. The fighter will then kneel and bow 3 times towards him. The first wai is actually intended for his trainer and mentor. The second, Buddhist country obliges, is intended to respect the Buddha and finally the last, marks respect towards the king.
- The Ram Muay : literally the "boxing dance", it is a kind of dance with the appearance of a "mock fight". Each school normally has its own style of Ram Muay. The purpose of this dance is primarily to warm up.
- The Mongkon : this is the accessory worn during the entire pre-match ritual, it is a kind of headband supposed to bring luck (hence the nickname blessed headband). The Mongkon is removed by the coach just before the start of the match.
- Music is also an integral part of a Thai boxing match. Both during the ritual and during the match, a group of musicians who use a set of cymbals, drums and Javanese flutes play live and adjust the rhythm according to the actions during the match.
The whole thing takes place in a generally overexcited atmosphere, with each spectator encouraging their favorite by shouting at each blow landed on their opponent. This makes the experience quite unique where you frankly don't see the time pass.
Although the sport was originally particularly brutal (it was even banned for a time in the 1920s), it was subsequently codified by adopting the codes of English boxing, particularly in the use of gloves, victory by points or KO.
Muay Thai is a form of boxing using feet, elbows, knees. It is a very complete and technical sport that is becoming more and more popular.
Where to watch a Thai boxing match in Bangkok?
Here are some ideas:
- For the more shy : You can always get an idea of what a boxing match looks like by watching the matches broadcast every Sunday on Thai TV channel 7, starting at 14:15pm. The other option is Friday on channel 24 (True4u), broadcast from 18pm to 20pm.
To be at the heart of the action : there are 2 main stadiums in Bangkok for Thai boxing, the Rajadamnern Stadium (also spelled Ratchadamnoen Stadium) and the Lumpini Stadium (also spelled Lumpinee but it will change its name anyway, see below).
The ticket price is between 1 and 000 baht (for foreigners). Note that it is a fairly long event, usually between 2 and 000 hours, because it is a series of many different matches, depending on the categories and ages of the participants. In addition, the matches are traditionally held in 3 rounds.
The matches start with the youngest (usually still teenagers) and the champions come at the end (normally the most interesting fights), just to encourage people to stay until the end.
Rajadamnern Boxing Stadium
One of the two most important arenas for this sport, in Bangkok but also famous throughout Thailand. It has also become a historical monument because it is the very first stadium dedicated to Muay Thai built in Thailand. The Rajadamnern stadium is therefore the one that I recommend by default, because you will be able to see some of the best Muay Thai fights in Bangkok.
Moreover, it is easily accessible from Bangkok's main tourist sites as it is not far from the Grand Palace and therefore from Khao San Road (barely 2 km!).
Besides regular fight nights, Rajadamnern frequently hosts large-scale international events. The website isn't very user-friendly and is only available in English, but you can check the schedule of upcoming fights via the events calendar on the Muay Thai 2000 website.
The stadium has recently undergone a facelift and, more importantly, a modernization that transforms the evening into a truly unique experience. They've installed a ceiling with a giant LED screen that projects animations between matches – an immersive experience guaranteed! However, be aware that according to their website ( see info here , in English), this only happens once during the evening, at precisely 20:10 PM!
At the end of the show, you won't have to go far to enjoy some street food, as vendors will usually be stationed outside the exit! It's also a great place to grab a snack between matches. In any case, you'll have to eat outside, as you won't be able to bring your purchases back in; outside food and drinks are not permitted.
Not a big deal since they now have something to drink and snack on inside.
How much does it cost ?
1,500 baht for seats in the "LEO section" (which ultimately offer a better overall view as it's a higher level than the seats around the ring). The low cost is mainly due to the fact that you don't have an assigned seat. This is primarily where locals gather and place bets while shouting loudly.
1,800 baht for the so-called "Club Class" seats, which offer side views and, this time, an assigned seat. Depending on the side, you will also be close to the drinks and snack service.
2,500 baht for seats around the ring, perfect if you like to be as close to the action as possible!
VIP areas are accessible from 4,500 baht.
Also, I can add that many gyms in Bangkok are affiliated with the stadium, so if you are training, check with your gym to see if there is a discount on basic (ringside) tickets. You can get your tickets from the official Rajadamnern website and you just need to show up with your confirmation email for entry.
If you have ever fought in this stadium yourself, you will get a 2-year pass to access the stadium and watch the fights for free. Still something.
How to get to Rajadamnern Stadium:
- If you stay to Khao San Road, Rambuttri, or the first streets of Samsen Road, you will only have about 20 minutes of walking.
- If you are in another area of Bangkok, there is no direct public transport, apart from the bus. If you want to test, you have the bus lines 70, 503 and 509 AC which passes in front of the stadium. To help you with transport, I recommend in this case the Moovit app available on Android et the App Store.
- With the opening of the extension of the underground metro, Blue Line (MRT Blue Line), you now have a station just 2 km from the stadium, Sam Yot ruling.
- Otherwise stay the taxi, which should be able to get you there in less than half an hour from the city centre or even less if you take it from one of the skytrain stations in the BTS Sukhumvit Line (Phaya Thai station, Victory Monument, or possibly Ratchathewi). It should cost you less than 100 baht in that case.
New Lumpinee Boxing Stadium
I leave its original name as the title but I should say, goodbye Lumpini, hello Royal Thai Army Sport Centre. But it is less glamorous you will agree, even if we add the annotation Muay Thai Lumpini as it should be, the stadium has lost its aura of yesteryear.
Founded in 1956 by a marshal of the Thai army, Prapas Jarusatien, it is one of the seven standard boxing stadiums in Thailand. It is famous not only for being the origin of the glory of some of the greatest Thai boxers but has acquired over the years a reputation in promoting the art of Thai boxing both nationally and internationally. Its name is due to its original location, facing Lumpini Park, along Rama IV Road, a major artery in Bangkok. The latter was also located next to another mythical place a decade ago now, the Suan Lum Night Bazaar, which I had known as well as the original stadium, from which the illustrative photos of this article are taken (except those annotated).
The original stadium has given way to a large mixed commercial, office and residential complex called The One, still under construction. The latter has been modernized and expanded, but it is therefore located well away from the center, more than 30 km away. Still managed by the army, the latter has, according to the official reason, wanted to put an end to illegal betting by simply prohibiting Thais from entering the stadium... Absolutely... The latter therefore want to privilege access to this stadium only to foreigners... who obviously bring in much more given the price of the tickets than the Thais...
As a result, how can you hope for an "authentic" evening if the shows are only intended for a foreign audience... It will ultimately be just another tourist attraction and will lose the charm of what makes up the atmosphere of a local stadium. As a result, I find it difficult to advise you to go there, the only valid reason being if you are a fan and that on the day in question, the matches are taking place at Lumpinee and not at Rajadamnern.
But just to be complete, I'll give you all the information.
How much does it cost ?
2,000 baht for seats around the ring (Ring Side).
Similar to Rajadamnern, you should get discounted rates if your training center is affiliated with this stadium. It is possible to request 2nd and 3rd class seats on site.
How to get to Lumpinee Stadium:
- It is unlikely that you will be staying in the vicinity, however I can point out that the stadium is quite close to Don Muang International Airport.
- If you like taking the bus, you have the bus lines 26, 95, 150, 520 and 554 AC which passes next to the stadium on Ram Inthra Avenue.
- This is where we see the benefits of an expansion of the metro network in Bangkok, with the extension of the BTS Sukhumvit Line, you now have a station less than 2 km from Lumpinee Stadium, Wat Phra Sri Mahathat stop.
- Otherwise stay the taxi, either a nice one with a meter, otherwise keep it simple by ordering a Grab Whichever option you choose, you should be looking at a good hour's drive given the heavy traffic in this part of town. It should cost you less than 300 baht (not counting any tolls if he takes the motorway) on the way there, it should be a little cheaper on the way back because there will be less traffic jams.
Channel 7 TV Studios Stadium
I mentioned it just above, every Sunday at 14:15 p.m. there are matches which take place in the studios of the national television channel CH7 (belonging to the royal army).
Well, know that the studios are open to the public!
After Lumpinee Stadium and Ratchadamnoen Stadium, this is the 3rd most important stadium in Bangkok. You will therefore be entitled to intense, authentic matches, in an electric and purely local atmosphere, all for free!
In recent years, the stadium has attracted more and more tourists, attracted by the possibility of watching free matches and, in addition, being close to the famous Chatuchak weekend market.
Many take a look and walk out after a few games, because this freebie also comes with discomfort. The stiff seats, the deafening shouts of the hoarse-voiced punters and the view that is likely to be blocked by the horny ones who prefer to cheer on their champion while standing make the experience exhausting for some.
There are chairs towards the front, considered VIP seats, but they are not free (normally 300 baht) but I doubt you will find any free unless you come well in advance.
In absolute terms, if this local atmosphere appeals to you, plan to arrive an hour in advance.
NOTE: As this is broadcast live on national television, the studio is attentive to the clothing of the audience (and especially tourists). Therefore, if you plan to participate, men should wear a short-sleeved shirt or possibly a polo shirt (no t-shirts). Women must wear a dress (no miniskirts), have their shoulders covered, and wear closed shoes. Otherwise, you will be turned away or, failing that, pressured to buy anything on-site at a price that will obviously be to your disadvantage.
MBK Fight Night (Maah Boon Krong: The All-Purpose Store!)
After being paused for a while, following renovations to the department store, it is once again possible to attend demonstration matches on the first and last Wednesday of the month between 18pm and 20pm, at the MBK store (National Stadium station of the BTS).
The big advantage is that it's FREE to access! You just need to show up on the G Floor (street level floor).
Rangsit Boxing Stadium
New to this updated list, it is not the first one to come. Because this very local stadium and well known to purists, was created in 1962 on the outskirts of the city (at the time). It moved several times but remained in the vicinity of Rangsit before settling in its current location in 1985. Despite its somewhat old-fashioned appearance, this stadium is as much appreciated by fighters looking to make a name for themselves as by the more famous ones, who respond present to the show every Friday evening.
Because since its reopening after the March 2020 lockdown, the stadium has been the center of a TV show called "Muay Man Wan Suk" (wan suk meaning Friday in Thai). Presented by a big name in Muay Thai (Petchyindee if you're familiar), the weekly show attracts the great champions who normally fight at the two main stadiums of Rajadamnern and Lumpinee. Due to its conditions, there is a bit of an American "show" side, but with a Thai twist.
Its main drawback is its location, which is out of the way and subject to traffic jams in the evening.
How much does it cost ?
1,500 baht for foreigners (1,000 baht for Thais who are entitled to the VIP area).
Note that the ticket includes two coupons for free drinks.
How to get to Rangsit Stadium:
- It's unlikely that you'll be staying nearby either, but Rangsit Stadium is also close to Don Muang International Airport. Alternatively, you could take a van from Victory Monument to Future Park, for example, and walk the 1m to the stadium (it'll be a good workout).
- You can take a bus by stopping at Makro in Ransit, as there are many choices, I will not list them all but give you the link Makro Rangsit judgment, where are marked at the bottom of the tab on the left, the different lines stopping there.
- The simplest option obviously remains the taxi or Grab This should also cost you less than 300 baht (not including any tolls if motorway).
World Siam Stadium
Last of the stadiums, here is the WSS, a stadium born from the collaboration between veterans of the Muay Thai industry both foreign and local. As such, the stadium plans to offer both Muay Thai fights but may include other specialties like MMA.
The fact is that it was created during the beginning of the pandemic and to date, it has only been able to host two major events. While it has received good reviews for its atmosphere and show management, it currently has nothing scheduled.
Photos taken from their Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/worldsiamstadiumWSS/
How much does it cost ?
They offer an attractive price starting from 1,000 baht.
How to get to Word Siam Stadium:
- You can take a bus by stopping at The Mall Bang Kapi, located next to the stadium, along Lat Phrao Road.
- The option to date remains the taxi or Grab Also watch out for traffic jams, which are especially important in this area as it is under construction. The good news is that soon there will be a metro stop because the work concerns the addition of the MRT yellow line, which passes through this artery.
Bonus: Thai boxing on video
To help you get an idea of what a Thai boxing session is like in a stadium, here is a video I took during my visit to Lumpinee Stadium (at its former location):
And as a complement, a clip from the Thai rock group “Bodyslam” depicting the daily life of 2 young boxers in the making:
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