During my first visit to George Town , which had been listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site the previous year, I was not particularly impressed by the historic city, nor even charmed by the island of Penang.
However, when a new visa renewal forced me to leave Thailand, I decided to give Penang another chance. It has to be said that things had changed quite a bit since my previous visit. Since its inscription in 2008, art has invaded the streets of George Town , giving it a magnificent boost and reshaping the city's identity.
It features two main themes: murals and a series of wrought iron sculptures. Each work tells the story of George Town, its inhabitants and its evolution, reflecting the multicultural identity of Penang.
This project was implemented under the auspices of the municipality and the creativity of local and international artists. From the first exhibition, "Marking George Town," to contemporary projects, art has permeated every alleyway, encouraging exploration through walking tours that pass by various points of interest.
It's an original and fun way to visit the city , which allowed me to rediscover George Town from a new perspective and to appreciate Penang even more , where I've returned several times. Mission accomplished, then. Hats off to the artists!
Street art in George Town: a living and constantly evolving city
Since its UNESCO World Heritage listing, George Town has seen a veritable art scene emerge on its streets. And one of the charms of street art in George Town is that it is constantly evolving. New works appear, some murals fade over time, others are readjusted to keep their impact.
This is what makes each visit unique, a bit like a treasure hunt where the map is never complete, and where the magic lies in the unexpected. Just venture into the alleys to discover a hidden work, a half-erased drawing, or a new mural ready to surprise.
Artists don’t just paint walls; they create connections with the city, its people, and its history. Street art in George Town is not just a decoration, but a way to explore local culture, question the past, and think about the future. It’s an art that invites participation, that makes the city alive and vibrant.
Ernest Zacharevic: The Artist Who Changed Everything
It's impossible to talk about George Town's street art without mentioning Ernest Zacharevic, the Lithuanian artist whose murals have given the city a new look. With his "Mirrors of George Town" series , launched at a festival in 2012, Zacharevic not only brought international attention to Penang but also breathed new life into the city's urban art scene. His style, blending realism with interaction with the viewer, quickly made his works essential viewing.
Here are some of his most striking frescoes:
— Little children on a bicycle —
Located on Armenian Street, this is probably one of the most popular, attracting crowds of visitors eager to take pictures with these children posing on a bike. A perfect example of Zacharevic's interactive art. It depicts a little girl taking her little brother for a bike ride. It is a painting based on a real scene captured on camera, as their parents went out to do some sketching in the city. These children exude the joy and simplicity of everyday life and this mural is a perfect illustration of the art that contributes to the charm of the city.
— Boy on Motorbike —
Another iconic work by the Lithuanian artist, located on Lebuh Ah Quee, depicts a boy on a motorbike, watching pedestrians pass by. Like other Zacharevic murals, it invites viewers to interact and imagine themselves in the scene. Since motorbikes are a popular mode of transport in Penang, it reinforces the connection between the artist and local culture. Note that you'll kill two birds with one stone by visiting this mural, as it's located immediately to the right of another work by Ernest Zacharevic, " Little Boy with Pet Dinosaur ."
— Reaching up —
Located on Lebuh Cannon, this mural depicts a boy standing on a chair, reaching for a hole above him. A simpler piece, but one that captures the essence of Zacharevic's street art.
— The Awaiting Trishaw Pedaler —
Although it is not "interactive", this giant fresco on Jalan Penang representing a trishaw, the city's emblematic bicycle taxi, does not leave you indifferent. It pays homage to a traditional means of transport that is an integral part of the city's history, even if today, it is more often used by tourists than by locals.
— The Girl in Blue —
The Little Girl in Blue is another of his imposing works. In the original photograph he took inspiration from, the little girl has her hands resting on two tables, while in the mural he skillfully depicted her based on the real elements of his decor, perched above the two windows. Because of her balanced position, she is sometimes referred to as the "Kung Fu Girl".
The "life" of his works has not been a smooth one. Some have not stood the test of time, such as " Children in a Boat ," painted on the facade of a wooden house in the famous Chew Jetty community, which practically disappeared barely a year after its creation. Another example is "The Old Man," another large-scale painting by the artist, visible on Armenian Street—well, actually, almost no longer visible…
Several have been vandalized, with tags added on top (fortunately cleaned since). But, proof of his investment, several of his frescoes have been retouched by the artist in order to repair them and maintain their visibility.
Finally, it should be noted that he also showcased his art elsewhere in Malaysia, as you can admire several of his works in Ipoh.
Local artists: talents who enrich the scene
While Zacharevic is a mainstay, he is not alone in bringing his touch to George Town. Many local artists also bring their unique touch to the city. Their creativity and perspectives enrich the urban landscape and make every street corner even more vibrant. These artists, while remaining true to the spirit of the city, capture local culture, history and social concerns with remarkable talent.
Project 101 Lost Kittens : awareness and tenderness
One of George Town's most notable projects is 101 Lost Kittens. This project is a collaboration between two Malaysian artists, Tang Yeok Khang and Louise Low , and a Thai artist, Natthapon Muangkliang , forming a trio called ASA (for Artists for Stray Animals) to advocate for animal rights.
Indeed, the idea behind 101 Lost Kittens is to raise awareness about the problem of helping stray animals find homes. This awareness is symbolized by colorful and characterful frescoes featuring cats.
Contrary to what the name suggests, you will not have 101 cats to find but a set of around ten works, mixing paintings and sculptures (11 originally, then a few bonuses which have been added to the project since).
Among the must-see works:
— Skippy —
This giant cat painted on Armenian Street had become an icon of the city. It depicted a cat rescued from the streets on the island of Langkawi and taken in by a center, the "LASSie animal shelter." I speak in the past tense because, sadly, the cat passed away in 2019, and symbolically, its image on the mural is crumbling in parallel, to the point of being barely visible today.
— Love me like your fortune cat —
Located a few meters from " Skippy ", this work represents a "real" cat, surrounded by the lucky cats characteristic of Asia, an obvious nod to the local culture and its importance in daily life.
— Cats & Humans Happily Living Together —
A fresco that depicts the procession of Taoist deities in the streets of George Town, the majority religion in Penang, with humans replaced by cats. This painting is also an invitation to discover the city's heritage since it is visible in the courtyard on your right at the entrance to the Cheah Kongsi Chinese temple.
— No Animal Discrimination Please —
“No discrimination against animals, please” adorns the wall behind Edelweiss Cafe, which faces Soo Hong Lane. The mural is meant to promote equal treatment for pets, whether cats or dogs.
—The Real Bruce Lee Would Never Do This—
I had to mention this one since it's one of my favorites, if only for the humorous touch it adds. "The Real Bruce Lee Would Never Do That" shows two stray cats being kicked by the kung fu legend, one of which is sent flying. The mural is obviously not to encourage people to do the same, but rather to remind the public to treat stray cats well. A note is placed underneath, listing its title in three languages, Malay, English, and Chinese, stating that the real Bruce Lee obviously never did that to cats.
Louis Gan: Another perspective on daily life in Penang
Originally from Penang, Louis Gan is a self-taught deaf artist who has left his mark on the urban landscape of George Town with intimate murals rooted in everyday life. His works, simple yet deeply evocative, bring a warm and community-oriented touch to the city.
— Children Playing Basketball and Brother and Sister on a Swing —
Respectively “children playing basketball” and “a brother and sister on a swing”, these two works capture moments of life that speak to everyone, scenes that resonate with residents and visitors, evoking joy, solidarity and the simplicity of everyday interactions. They work a bit on the same principle as Zacharevic’s work, including elements of real decor to encourage interaction with the works.
— Nostalgic Meal Order —
The scene depicts a young Nyonya girl receiving a meal of noodles in a basket from the street vendor below. The scene is reminiscent of life in George Town in the early 20th century, when the upper class, the Nyonya, lived in seclusion and shopped in baskets, into which they deposited their money.
Jim Oo Chun Hee and John Cheng: A tribute to local culture
Other artists, such as Jim Oo Chun Hee and John Cheng , have also added their personal touch to George Town. The most notable is a 2-meter mural entitled "Teach You Speak Hokkien ," which you'll find on a large purple wall at the beginning of Soo Hong Alley, perpendicular to Armenian Street. More discreetly, you'll find another work on the same wall, entitled "The Cultural Girls . "
“Teach You Speak Hokkien” refers to the main dialect spoken on the island, which is an integral part of Penang’s identity. As for “The Cultural Girls” (official name: “Wo Ai Nee Chinese Malay Indian ,” literally “I love you Chinese, Malay, and Indian”), it pays homage to Penang’s multiculturalism. The mural depicts three young girls—one Chinese, one Malay, and one Indian—dressed in exquisite finery, symbolizing Penang’s diversity and the heritage of its people.
Independent and spontaneous works: art that invites itself elsewhere
The artworks are scattered throughout George Town, but Armenian Street concentrates a good portion of the most popular street art. While I've mostly mentioned paintings commissioned by the municipality and created for festivals so far, others are the work of independent local artists, like "I Want Pau!".
Also spelled "I Want Bao" , this mural is located on a wall at the end of Armenian Street Ghaut (an extension of Armenian Street). It shows two children stretching their hands from inside a window towards a parked bicycle carrying a stack of rattan supports used for steaming Chinese buns.
The mural was created by WK Setor , an artist from Penang who has been active for over twenty years. The owner of the Ming Xiang Tai pastry shop , where the painting was created, invited his friend Setor to decorate his establishment. Simply titled "Childhood," the artwork depicts the pastry shop owner's two children. This personal connection gives the mural an even more intimate and heartwarming dimension.
Obviously the goal here is not to detail everything, but above all to give an idea of what you can see in Penang. I'll let you discover it for yourself, especially since this article was written, other creations have surely been added, when others have disappeared.
“Marking George Town”: a story in wrought iron
Marking George Town is a collection of caricatures placed in the historic streets of George Town by the company Sculpture At Work . In 2010, when George Town was experiencing an artistic boom, the company won a design ideas competition launched by the Penang State government in late 2009.
The concept presented by Sculpture at Work is to tell the story and/or characteristics of selected streets in George Town using steel rod caricatures by local cartoonists. The aim is to make the story of George Town interesting and understandable to all, whether visitors or residents, young or old.
As an aside, for years I wrote that the project was called "Making George Town", which is quite consistent since it could be translated as "Shaping George Town", while its official title is in fact "Marking George Town", meaning rather "Marking George Town", in the sense of creating landmarks.
The project was carried out by four artists: Baba Chuah , Lefty (Julian "Lefty" Kam) , Reggie Lee , and Tang Mun Kian . The latter is the most prolific and the creator of the majority of the sculptures. Upon closer inspection, one can discern the distinctive "touch" of each artist, each possessing a unique style influenced by its creator.
Here I list the main sculptures according to each artist:
Baba Chuah: tribute to the ancestors
— Jimmy Choo —
Located at the corner of Leith and Muntri streets, this sculpture pays homage to the " Hong Kong Shoe " workshop, where the famous shoemaker Jimmy Choo began his career as an apprentice, before becoming the shoe designer to the stars, notably after designing a pair for the late Princess Diana.
— Yeoh only —
Installed on the wall of the Yeoh clan's communal house (Yeoh Kongsi) on Chulia Street, this sculpture commemorates the house's founding in 1836, a symbolic place for the Chinese community in Penang. A little-known fact : although she hails from Ipoh, Malaysian actress Michelle Yeoh, often perceived as Chinese, may have ancestors connected to this same clan, as her name suggests.
Lefty (Julian “Lefty” Kam): Stories from the past
— Win win —
Located on Muntri Street, this sculpture refers to a 19th-century tin merchant who worked with Ngah Ibrahim, a Malay nobleman. It tells a story of prosperity and trade cooperation.
— Property —
On Victoria Street, this sculpture commemorates the extension of the quays between Beach Street and Weld Quay, with the addition of warehouses, a major development for trade in Penang, when steamships began to replace sailing ships, requiring deeper harbours.
— Narrowest Five Foot Way —
Installed at the end of Stewart Lane, this sculpture placed on the arches of a typical covered sidewalk of the region, refers to the history of the latter. It evokes Stamford Raffles, future "founder" of Singapore, who, after being well soaked by a monsoon downpour in Jakarta, decided that sidewalks should be covered to protect pedestrians from the elements. This particular sidewalk is considered to be the narrowest in George Town, not respecting the usual width of 1 m (50 Foot) recommended for such constructions.
Reggie Lee: anecdotes and local culture
— Kapitan Chung Keng Kwee —
Located on Ah Qee Street, next to a small lost Minion, this sculpture represents the powerful businessman of Penang in the late 19th century, who bequeathed his house to the municipality to ensure his name's prosperity.
— Spy —
Located near the intersection of Cintra Street, this sculpture refers to the suspicions of espionage activities that took place in this area, especially after the installation of many Japanese-run photo shops in this area.
Tang Mun Kian: the common thread of the project
Tang Mun Kian, one of the artists behind Marking George Town , created many of the project's sculptures, each depicting particular aspects of local life. His sculptures adorn numerous street corners and strategic locations throughout George Town.
— Double Role —
Installed at the intersection of Beach Street and Chulia Street, just opposite the fire station. This sculpture represents a policeman of Indian origin, and evokes the dual role that the city's officers had at that time, who, until 1909, also had to intervene as firefighters in the event of a fire.
— One Leg Kicks All —
Located on Muntri Street, the sculpture refers to the “amah,” Cantonese maids. Since most of them come from the same Chinese province of Guangdong, a sense of solidarity quickly forms and they call themselves “Yat Keok Tet,” which means “one leg for everything” in Cantonese, a reference to their multi-tasking role in the homes of wealthy families.
— Kandar —
On Ah Quee Street, this sculpture celebrates nasi kandar, a Tamil Muslim rice dish that was originally sold as a street vendor. The name kandar refers to the pole used to carry the food.
— Then and Now —
Installed on Armenian Street, this sculpture illustrates the transformation of this street, which once ("Then") was the district of scrap metal dealers and copper traders, to become today ("Now") the corner of recyclers of newspapers, plastics etc.
— Untrained Parakeet —
Located on the corner of King Street and China Street, this caricature refers to the Indian fortune tellers who used tame parakeets to predict their clients' futures (a tradition that continues in India).
— Cannon Hole —
Located on Cannon Street, not far from the street art "Reaching up", it depicts a rickshaw driver comically disappearing into a hole in the ground while the passenger watches in amazement. It commemorates a particular episode of the Penang riots of 1867, when a cannon shot was fired, thereby blowing a hole in the area. But popular myth has it that the hole was not in the ground as depicted in the sculpture, but in a wall of the minaret of the nearby mosque at the end of the street. A hole that is still visible on its minaret even though it appears to be "original".
A map to guide you
To make your visit more immersive, here is a map listing the majority of the sculptures and frescoes in George Town. This map will help you locate the major works I talked about in this article, but also discover other creations hidden throughout the city.
Whether you are looking for the famous works of Zacharevic or the historical sculptures of Making George Town , the map will guide you and allow you to discover Penang from a new perspective.
The map is not mine but comes from a very comprehensive website on the subject (in English), which helped me write this article: penang-traveltips.com
It's your turn: the hunt for works of art
While the paintings originally had meaning and a deep connection to Penang and its people, Ernest Zacharevic's work opened a Pandora's box that has since unleashed a slew of street art on George Town. Today, everyone thinks they have the skills to paint walls with a paintbrush in hand.
Today, George Town is somewhat of a victim of its own success, invaded by less thoughtful works, drowning the original message in the profusion of styles and genres that adorn the city's walls. This phenomenon, although unavoidable, raises the question of public art and its limits.
But beyond the debates, George Town remains a hidden gem waiting to be discovered. If you're a history buff, a street art enthusiast, or simply curious, embark on an adventure and let yourself be surprised by the sculptures, installations, and murals that make this fascinating city so rich. There are so many of them that you'll have no trouble finding them!
