Ban Mae Kampong: a mountain village and nature refuge near Chiang Mai
Perched at 1 m in the mountains, just over an hour's drive from Chiang Mai, Ban Mae Kampong has become a popular getaway over the years, especially for Thais seeking peace and quiet and nature. This small mountain village, with its wooden houses lined up along the road, is as attractive for its tranquil atmosphere as for its elaborately decorated cafes, where people come to spend time more than just drink an espresso.
There's also a small, discreet temple, an easily accessible waterfall, and, for those who want to extend their walk, a viewpoint at the top of the mountain. In short, a place that has gained in notoriety and has already evolved considerably since my first visit, but which still retains a certain charm.
The village atmosphere
Ban Mae Kampong is a village that stretches along a secondary road leading to the neighboring province of Lampang. It can be distinguished into two parts: the first, which could be described as the main street, and then a little further on, the heart of the village. The liveliest area, at least during my visits, remains the one along the road.
The first time I visited, Ban Mae Kampong was just beginning to become an attraction, even though the village's history dates back a century. The first inhabitants were farmers from nearby Doi Saket, who came to take advantage of Mae Kampong's humid climate for much of the year to plant tea.
When demand dried up, locals looked for other means of livelihood. In the 80s, they began growing coffee under the impetus of the Royal Project (initiated by King Rama IX). Like many other villages in the North, Ban Mae Kampong benefited from this program aimed at providing sustainable alternatives to slash-and-burn agriculture and deforestation, but also at replacing opium cultivation, which was still widespread in ethnic mountain villages.
In Mae Kampong, this has helped to promote local resources, not just agricultural ones. A concrete example is the development of a small hydroelectric power plant on the stream that runs through the village, in order to produce its own electricity. This period has helped to improve living conditions while maintaining a certain community cohesion.
The tourist shift began in the 90s, when the Thai government implemented theOTOPIn Mae Kampong, the village chief then chose to offer ecotourism as a specialty, promoting the natural setting and community life.
Tourists are invited to stay with a local family and participate in daily life, such as harvesting crops or caring for animals. This has allowed locals to diversify their income, welcome visitors, and develop an economy focused on hospitality and nature.
Today, we see the result: the village still lives off its crops (mainly coffee and still a little tea), but tourism has become an essential source of income, perfectly integrated into the model promoted by the Royal Project. This also explains why Mae Kampong is often presented as a “model village” of community tourism in Thailand.
This reputation has built up over time, as the change was barely noticeable at first. Just a decade ago, the village looked like many others. When I first visited, some houses were still very simple and served only as homes. But then the internet came along, and with the explosion of Instagrammable places combined with word of mouth, Ban Mae Kampong has been transformed.
Today, many have evolved to accommodate more visitors, with homestays, small shops, and of course, numerous cafes replacing the more modest structures. You can feel that the village has changed, but it retains a warm and relaxing atmosphere.
To a foreign traveler, Mae Kampong appears as a charming mountain village, with its wooden facades and terraces bordering the stream or opening onto the surrounding forest. For Thais, it has become a trendy destination, ideal for relaxing and taking photos. Two different perspectives, but there's something for everyone.
Even though cafes are now an integral part of the experience, people don't necessarily come here for an exceptional coffee, but to stop, enjoy the setting, and take their time. The atmosphere has a sophisticated feel, designed to appeal to Thai visitors who love this type of getaway, but it remains pleasant and ultimately reflects the evolution of the place.
If I had to name two iconic cafes in Ban Mae Kampong, it would definitely be the Lung Pud Pa Peng Coffee House, run by a local couple and considered one of the very first cafés in the village, which embodies this spirit of relaxation.
The 2nd is undoubtedly the Rabiang View Maekampong, which has grown considerably since my last visit but retains its advantage of being perched on the heights, with a terrace offering a breathtaking view of the rooftops and surrounding hills. Two different styles but which reflect the evolution of the village: one rooted in simplicity and local hospitality, the other designed for the panorama and the visual experience.
Places to see around the village
While the village itself is already worth the trip, there are fortunately other things to discover besides its cafés and restaurants, as pleasant as they may be.
Wat Khantha Phueksa: the local temple
If you walk up the busy area for about 300 meters, you will come across the small local temple, located by the roadside. The first traces of a temple in Ban Mae Kampong date back to 1925, but then it was just a simple hermitage. In 1930, a local monk called Kruba Insom Khanthornso used his sister's land to build a temple on the current site. The term "Khantha" refers to the monk's name, while "Phueksa"—which translates as "flora"—refers to the environment, the lush forest surrounding the temple.
With the growing attendance in the village, the temple has benefited from regular donations, which has allowed it to continually expand. But the original elements are still there. The main part is located on the upper part, along the road, where there is a chedi and the main thing viharn, whose teak wood facade carved in the Lanna style gives it a certain elegance.
The main attraction, however, remains theubosot (the ordination hall, as a reminder). Made entirely of wood, it is placed in the middle of the stream that flows down the mountain at the foot of the temple. This is what we call a Uthoksema, formed from Uthok (which means “water”, in a more formal register than usual your name – น้ำ) and of sema → literally “sow in water”, the sema being the sacred stones that traditionally demarcate the ubosot.
From what I have read, there are only two buildings of this type left in the north of the country: here in Ban Mae Kampong and in Wat Si Sutthawat Enmeku, also called Wat Phutthaen, in the district of Mae Chaem (also in the province of Chiang Mai). Facing a waterfall, the ubosot of Mae Kampong offers a particularly remarkable setting.
If you continue for another 300 m past the temple, you will arrive at the “centre” of the village, where the houses today mingle with the numerous homestays.
Mae Kampong Waterfall
If you go up the road for about 1 km upstream from the temple, you will come across the small parking lot leading to the small Mae Kampong waterfall. The road is quite steep and, for the record, with my city car at the time I really skidded on a bend, thinking for a moment that I was not going to make it...
Given the distance, walking there from the village is still an option, although it's not ideal because the road is narrow and therefore dangerous for pedestrians. The waterfall consists of a series of seven falls, which are reached by a narrow path that winds up through the jungle along the stream.
It's a pleasant little walk, thanks to its freshness and serenity, surrounded by dense vegetation. Access to the first level is easy, with a small natural pool perfect for dipping your feet or, for the more adventurous, for a complete refreshment.
On the other hand, the climb to the upper levels can quickly become slippery: it is best to wear non-slip shoes and, if possible, come early in the morning to enjoy the calm before the arrival of groups of visitors, depending on the period.
The view from Kew Fin
Continuing along the road past the waterfall, you'll reach the campsite about 3 km further on, which is part of Chae Son National Park. On the other side of the road, a trail leads up to the Kew Fin viewpoint. Located at an altitude of 1 m, it overlooks the mountain range surrounding Ban Mae Kampong.
It's not a panorama that I would describe as exceptional, but it's still not bad and given its proximity to the village, if you are independent in transport, the stopover may still be worth the detour.
Nature and mountain activities
Turning north before reaching Mae Kampong, you have a small road winding through the mountains, leading first to a famous local cafe, the Giant Cafe, whose terrace surrounds a magnificent tree.
Continuing higher, you will arrive at an area where several outdoor activities renowned in the region have been set up, such as Kingkong Smile Zipline, or the Sky Hawk Zipline Chiangmai, both specializing in tree climbing and zip lines. Another, the Skyline Adventure, stands out with an original activity, since you have a kart-luge descent, a sort of sled on wheels that you go down a specially designed track.
Without necessarily participating in these activities, it is an opportunity to take a road that crosses or runs alongside small picturesque villages - almost all of which are now focused on coffee - and to discover other waterfalls. Among them, the Ya Chan Waterfall (น้ำตกย่าจันทร์) or the Tad Mok Waterfall (small clarification, this waterfall is marked as “Tabsadet Thebsadej Waterfall Tad Mork” on Google Maps, in reference to the area crossed, Doi Thepsadet, but the local sign clearly indicates Tad Mok).
A great way to extend your getaway by alternating between nature and coffee breaks. I should point out, however, that the road to get there is already an adventure in itself: narrow, with some tricky sections that require careful driving. It's best to have at least some experience behind the wheel or handlebars to take on this adventure.
Visitor information
When to come: It's best to stay during the week to avoid the crowds. Spending a night in a homestay is a good idea to enjoy the village atmosphere once the day-trippers have left.
How to get there: From Chiang Mai, it's about 50 km, or 1 hour 15 minutes by road. You can get there by car or motorbike for those more used to mountain roads, and this is obviously, as is often the case for me, the option I recommend to make the most of the place while being independent. The alternative is via a songthaew organized from the city (depending on your program, count on around 1 to 500 baht). The road is winding but well maintained.
How to get there: From Chiang Mai, it's about 50 km, or 1 hour 15 minutes by road. You can get there by car, by motorbike for those more accustomed to mountain roads, or via a songthaew organized from the city (depending on your schedule, expect to pay around 1 to 500 baht). The road is winding but well-maintained. There is also the option of opting for an organized day trip with a local agency, which often combines Mae Kampong with a treetop adventure in the surrounding area.
Budget: As it is primarily a popular destination for local tourism, restaurants and cafes remain affordable, often around 40–60 THB for a drink and 80–100 THB for a dish (2–3 €). On the other hand, accommodation offers seem to be aimed at a middle-class clientele, with rates frequently between 1 and 500 THB per night, depending on comfort and the season.
Accommodation: Originally, the offer was mainly based on homestays with simple and warm comfort. Today, it has become more professional and diversified: there are still some modest homestays, but there are also modern rooms and even entire villas for families. Reasonable prices include the Baan Ing Dao or Hugkao Maekampong. One of the most interesting for its location overlooking the village is the ขึ้นเขาฟาร์มสเตย์ (name only in Thai, literally "farmstay at the top of the mountain"). Some also offer a full board option, such as the Baan Ing Doi Maekampong.
Combine with: a stop at Doi Saket, where you can visit the cave Muang On Cave, the hot springs of San Kamphaeng Hot Springs or the hilltop temple of Wat Phra That Doi Saket, to complete the outing with another facet of the region.
