Perched at 1,300 meters in the mountains, just over an hour's drive from Chiang Mai, Ban Mae Kampong has become a popular getaway over the years , especially for Thais seeking peace and nature. This small mountain village, with its wooden houses lining the road, charms visitors as much for its tranquil atmosphere as for its stylishly decorated cafes, where people come to spend time rather than just drink an espresso.
There's also a small, discreet temple, an easily accessible waterfall, and, for those who want to extend their walk, a viewpoint at the top of the mountain. In short, a place that has gained in notoriety and has already evolved considerably since my first visit, but which still retains a certain charm.
The village atmosphere
Ban Mae Kampong is a village that stretches along a secondary road leading to the neighboring province of Lampang. It can be distinguished into two parts: the first, which could be described as the main street, and then a little further on, the heart of the village. The liveliest area, at least during my visits, remains the one along the road.
The first time I visited, Ban Mae Kampong was just beginning to become an attraction, even though the village's history dates back a century. The first inhabitants were farmers from nearby Doi Saket, who came to take advantage of Mae Kampong's humid climate for much of the year to plant tea.
When demand dried up, the inhabitants sought other means of subsistence. In the 80s, they began cultivating coffee under the impetus of the Royal Project (initiated by King Rama IX). Like many other villages in the North, Ban Mae Kampong benefited from this program aimed at providing sustainable alternatives to slash-and-burn agriculture and deforestation, but also to replacing opium cultivation, which was still widespread in the ethnic mountain villages at the time.
In Mae Kampong, this has helped to promote local resources, not just agricultural ones. A concrete example is the development of a small hydroelectric power plant on the stream that runs through the village, in order to produce its own electricity. This period has helped to improve living conditions while maintaining a certain community cohesion.
The shift towards tourism began in the 90s, when the Thai government established the OTOP (Office of Tourism Promotion). In Mae Kampong, the village chief then chose to offer ecotourism as a specialty, highlighting the natural environment and community life.
Tourists are invited to stay with a local family and participate in daily life, such as harvesting crops or caring for animals. This has allowed locals to diversify their income, welcome visitors, and develop an economy focused on hospitality and nature.
Today, we see the result: the village still lives off its crops (mainly coffee and still a little tea), but tourism has become an essential source of income, perfectly integrated into the model promoted by the Royal Project. This also explains why Mae Kampong is often presented as a “model village” of community tourism in Thailand.
This reputation has built up over time, as the change was barely noticeable at first. Just a decade ago, the village looked like many others. When I first visited, some houses were still very simple and served only as homes. But then the internet came along, and with the explosion of Instagrammable places combined with word of mouth, Ban Mae Kampong has been transformed.
Today, many have evolved to accommodate more visitors, with homestays, small shops, and of course, numerous cafes replacing the more modest structures. You can feel that the village has changed, but it retains a warm and relaxing atmosphere.
To a foreign traveler, Mae Kampong appears as a charming mountain village, with its wooden facades and terraces bordering the stream or opening onto the surrounding forest. For Thais, it has become a trendy destination, ideal for relaxing and taking photos. Two different perspectives, but there's something for everyone.
Even though cafes are now an integral part of the experience, people don't necessarily come here for an exceptional coffee, but to stop, enjoy the setting, and take their time. The atmosphere has a sophisticated feel, designed to appeal to Thai visitors who love this type of getaway, but it remains pleasant and ultimately reflects the evolution of the place.
If I had to name two iconic cafes in Ban Mae Kampong, it would undoubtedly be the Lung Pud Pa Peng Coffee House , run by a local couple and considered one of the very first cafes in the village, which embodies this spirit of relaxation.
The second is undoubtedly Rabiang View Maekampong , which has expanded considerably since my last visit but retains its advantage of being perched high up, with a terrace offering breathtaking views of the rooftops and surrounding hills. Two different styles, but both reflecting the village's evolution: one rooted in simplicity and local hospitality, the other designed for panoramic views and a truly immersive visual experience.
Places to see around the village
While the village itself is already worth the trip, there are fortunately other things to discover besides its cafés and restaurants, as pleasant as they may be.
Wat Khantha Phueksa: the local temple
If you walk back up through the busy area for about 300 meters, you'll come across the small local temple, located by the roadside. The first records of a temple in Ban Mae Kampong date back to 1925, but at that time it was just a simple hermitage. In 1930, a local monk named Kruba Insom Khanthornso used his sister's land to build a temple on the present site. The term "Khantha" refers to the monk's name, while "Phueksa"—which can be translated as "flora"—refers to the surrounding environment, the lush forest that encircles the temple.
With the village's growing popularity, the temple benefited from regular donations, allowing it to continually expand. But the original elements remain. The main features are located on the upper section, along the road, where a chedi and the principal viharn stand , its Lanna-style carved teak facade lending it a certain elegance.
The main attraction, however, remains the ubosot (the ordination hall, as a reminder). Made entirely of wood, it sits in the middle of the stream that flows down the mountain at the foot of the temple. This is what is called an Uthoksema , formed from Uthok (which means “water,” in a more formal register than the usual naam – น้ำ) and sema → literally “sema in the water,” the sema being the sacred stones that traditionally delimit the ubosot.
From what I've read, only two structures of this type remain in the north of the country: here in Ban Mae Kampong and at Wat Si Sutthawat Enmeku , also called Wat Phutthaen , in the Mae Chaem district (also in Chiang Mai province). Situated facing a waterfall, the ubosot in Mae Kampong offers a particularly remarkable setting.
If you continue for another 300 m past the temple, you will arrive at the “centre” of the village, where the houses today mingle with the numerous homestays.
Mae Kampong Waterfall
If you go up the road for about 1 km upstream from the temple, you will come across the small parking lot leading to the small Mae Kampong waterfall. The road is quite steep and, for the record, with my city car at the time I really skidded on a bend, thinking for a moment that I was not going to make it...
Given the distance, walking there from the village is still an option, although it's not ideal because the road is narrow and therefore dangerous for pedestrians. The waterfall consists of a series of seven falls, which are reached by a narrow path that winds up through the jungle along the stream.
It's a pleasant little walk, thanks to its freshness and serenity, surrounded by dense vegetation. Access to the first level is easy, with a small natural pool perfect for dipping your feet or, for the more adventurous, for a complete refreshment.
On the other hand, the climb to the upper levels can quickly become slippery: it is best to wear non-slip shoes and, if possible, come early in the morning to enjoy the calm before the arrival of groups of visitors, depending on the period.
The view from Kew Fin
Continuing along the road past the waterfall, you'll reach the campsite about 3 km further on, which is part of Chae Son National Park. On the other side of the road, a trail leads up to the Kew Fin viewpoint. Located at an altitude of 1 m, it overlooks the mountain range surrounding Ban Mae Kampong.
It's not a panorama that I would describe as exceptional, but it's still not bad and given its proximity to the village, if you are independent in transport, the stopover may still be worth the detour.
Nature and mountain activities
Turning north before reaching Mae Kampong, you have a small road winding through the mountains, leading first to a famous local cafe, the Giant Cafe, whose terrace surrounds a magnificent tree.
Continuing higher, you'll reach an area where several popular outdoor activities have set up shop, such as Kingkong Smile Zipline and Sky Hawk Zipline Chiangmai , both specializing in treetop adventure courses and zip lines. Another, Skyline Adventure , stands out with its unique activity: a downhill ride on a go-kart, a kind of wheeled sled that you race down a specially designed track.
Without necessarily participating in these activities, it's an opportunity to take a road that crosses or runs alongside small picturesque villages - almost all of which are now focused on coffee - and to discover other waterfalls. Among them, the Ya Chan Waterfall (น้ำตกย่าจันทร์) or the Tad Mok Waterfall (a small clarification, this waterfall is marked as “Tabsadet Thebsadej Waterfall Tad Mork” on Google Maps, referring to the area crossed, Doi Thepsadet, but the local sign clearly indicates Tad Mok).
A great way to extend your getaway by alternating between nature and coffee breaks. I should point out, however, that the road to get there is already an adventure in itself: narrow, with some tricky sections that require careful driving. It's best to have at least some experience behind the wheel or handlebars to take on this adventure.
Practical Info
When to come: preferably during the week to avoid the crowds. Spending a night in a homestay is a good idea to enjoy the village atmosphere once the day-trippers have left.
How to get there: From Chiang Mai, it's about 50 km, or a 1 hour 15 minute drive. You can get there by car, by motorbike for those more comfortable with mountain roads, or via a songthaew organized from the city (depending on your itinerary, expect to pay between 1,500 and 2,000 baht). The road is winding but well-maintained. You can also opt for a day trip organized by a local agency, which often combines Mae Kampong with a treetop adventure course in the surrounding area.
Budget: As it's primarily a destination for local tourists, restaurants and cafes remain affordable, often around 40–60 THB for a drink and 80–100 THB for a main course (2–3 €). Accommodation, however, seems geared towards a middle-class clientele, with prices frequently ranging from 1,500 to 2,500 THB per night, depending on the level of comfort and the season.
Accommodation: Initially, the offering was mainly based on homestays with simple and welcoming comfort. Today, it has become more professional and diversified: a few modest homestays remain, but you can also find modern rooms and even entire villas for families.
Examples of reasonably priced options include:
One of the most interesting, due to its location overlooking the village, is ขึ้นเขาฟาร์มสเตย์ (name only in Thai, literally "farmstay on top of the mountain"). Some also offer full board, such as Baan Ing Doi Maekampong.
Combine with: a stop in Doi Saket , where you can visit the Muang On Cave , the San Kamphaeng Hot Springs or the perched temple of Wat Phra That Doi Saket , to complete the outing with another facet of the region.
