My Bolaven Plateau Loop: 4 Days of Road Trip Between Waterfalls and Villages

The first time I came to Pakse—an essential base for exploring the Bolaven Plateau—I obviously wanted to get a glimpse of it. But due to lack of time (and because I had also chosen to linger around Champasak), I had to settle for a quick tour, focusing on a few of the most famous waterfalls.

A sort of appetizer — effective, but with a hint of “we’ll have to come back to it.”

If you're looking for information about the Bolaven Plateau, you'll probably have noticed that there are two options for exploring the area:

- the little loop : generally doable in 2 days
- the large loop : which takes 3 to 4 days depending on your pace

For my part, I left for 4 days, on a long version, but different from the classic big loop because I opted for a slightly unusual route - hence the "MY loop" in the title. It may seem a little presumptuous, but it is mainly to emphasize that I traced my own itinerary, without exactly following the classic loops (which I will detail just after).

In any case, expect quite a few stunts — it's the number 1 attraction of the Bolovens plateau — but also a few coffee breaks, lost roads, remote villages… and some wonderful encounters along the way.

Small or large loop?

We often see these two names coming up, but be careful: they are sometimes accompanied by maps showing incorrect routes (often a route marked by the national road 13 instead of the 20). To help you find your way around, here is a clear comparison between the two classic loops.

To better visualize the two classic routes of the Bolaven Plateau, here is a homemade map. It shows the main stages, waterfall areas, and key distances between each point.

Overview of my 4-day route

Before detailing my itinerary day by day, here is the generally tracing my own loopA revisited version over 4 days, with a good detour further south — well outside the classic big loop.
>To help you find your way, the lines in Blue et yellow correspond to the two classic loops, as on the previous map. You can see that my personal route, in Bordeaux, follows part of these roads before turning sharply south.

As I mentioned earlier, the big difference in my journey is this choice to go lower, notably passing through Attapeu.

The main reason was to see two waterfalls completely off the beaten track: Tad Sepa and Sae Pong Lai Waterfall, which I had spotted while planning this little road trip.

Not necessarily because they seemed exceptional (although ), but rather because it allowed me to trace a truly different loop — a way to get off the usual route and avoid simply following the big loop like everyone else.

With this XXL loop, I didn't know exactly what I was getting into, but this detour would prove fruitful. We'll talk about that later.

In the meantime, here is the progress of my loop, day by day:

And for those who want to visualize all this more precisely, I've also put together an interactive map. You can explore this route in more detail, zoom in, and locate waterfalls, stages, and other waypoints by scrolling down the menu (top left).

Note that each color on the plot corresponds to one day of travel.

How to get to Pakse?

Pakse is the logical starting point for exploring the Bolaven Plateau. If you're still planning your trip, here are the main options for getting there:

By bus or minivan:

The most common option, with frequent connections from Vientiane, Thakhek, the 4 Islands, or even Bangkok — as was my case.

• From Vientiane : Allow about 12 hours for the night bus journey. Departures often take place around 19–20 p.m. It's not the most pleasant journey, but it saves you a night.
• From Thakhek : Allow at least 7 hours for the drive. Departures are generally in the morning or early afternoon. Conventional buses or minivans vary depending on the company.
• From the 4 Islands (Don Det / Don Khone) : Combined boat and road minivans are offered by guesthouses or local agencies. It takes 3 to 4 hours in total, sometimes with a stop in Champassak.
• From Bangkok : there is a direct night bus operated by a Thai company (Transportation Co Ltd), from Mochit 2 (near the new station).
  It crosses the border at Chong Mek / Wang Tao, then continues directly to Pakse. It takes about 13 hours to travel + 1 hour to cross the border (you will save time by making your own eVisa in advance). This is the easiest option if you are coming directly from Bangkok, without any connections.

By plane :

Although officially "international," Pakse Airport remains very modest. There is only one scheduled domestic flight from Vientiane, and a few regional connections from Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon) in particular. From Bangkok, you'll have to make a stopover in Vientiane, which is neither convenient... nor cheap.

For more information on Pakse, transport, where to stay, what to do before/after the loop:see the dedicated article here.

Scooter rental

To do this loop, you obviously need a vehicle, and the easiest way is to rent a motorbike or scooter in Pakse. I already talked about it in my article on Champassak but you will find several rental companies in town, including some sure values ​​regularly recommended by travelers: Miss Noy, But also Lao Go Car ou Bolaven Trail Motorbike Rental Shop.

**Scooter, semi-auto or motorcycle?**

Some sections, especially towards Attapeu or around the more remote waterfalls, can be a bit challenging. Nothing insurmountable if you ride slowly, but it's best to be comfortable on two wheels, take your time, and avoid riding at night.

For my part, I took a semi-automatic (Honda Wave type), more than enough for this kind of road trip if you're not too loaded down — and above all, much cheaper. This type of motorcycle doesn't have a clutch to manage, but you still have to shift gears with your foot. If you're not familiar with this system, test it out well beforehand... or opt for a scooter: fully automatic, easier to handle — but also more expensive.

The basic bike for a good loop!

In general, count 130 kips/day for a semi-auto (around $6), and up to 200 kips/day ($9) for an automatic scooter like a Honda Click. As I write these lines, these rates take into account the current conversion, while the kip has lost enormous value in recent years.

Day 1: Pakse → Paksong → Thateng

Now that the basics are out of the way, here's how this road trip went. Let's get on board.

For this first day, I was heading out on a "small" Paksé-Kok Phoung Tai, with a planned stop at Captain Hook's in his village of Katu, a little further up the road from Thateng. A journey of just under 100 km, and it was the only day I had booked accommodation in advance.

When preparing the route, two possibilities presented themselves:

– take the national road 20 and then go back down towards the village after Beng.
– or take the national road 16 via Paksong.

We're off on the national road 16.

You obviously have the answer in the title, but this choice influenced the waterfalls I was able to include. The first option, for example, allowed me to stop at Mr Vieng, a well-known coffee producer, and pass through Tad Lo. But looking at the route, I spotted more interesting spots with option 2.

And according to Google Maps, it's also slightly shorter (though the difference is negligible... so not really a deciding factor). So I headed towards Paksong, with a few stops in mind. The first: Tad Yoi.

Tad Yoi Waterfall

So yes, I'll admit my pleonasm. Tad Yoi (ຕາດຍ້ອຍ) is a waterfall that has the advantage of being close to another unmissable waterfall in the area, Tad E-Tu. I reached it after a short hour's drive from Pakse, including about twenty minutes from the main junction.

Reaching the area wasn't particularly complicated: just follow the main dirt road. I crossed a small, makeshift bridge barely wider than a car, and continued for a few kilometers, passing my first coffee plantations. It was at the end that I struggled a bit: the waterfall was clearly marked on Google Maps, but on site... there were no signs.

Another concern: the area was under construction. The river through which Tad Yoi flows is harnessed via a network of canals to power a nearby hydroelectric power plant. Initially, I headed for a path leading above the waterfall. But the view wasn't great, and there was no way to get down below as I'd hoped. So, plan B: access the viewpoint located almost opposite, on the other side of the canyon where this remote waterfall flows.

I backtrack slightly and branch off the main path to reach the area, which I reach after 1 km. There, I find myself facing a track that runs along and down the hill. But after a few meters, I find that it descends too steeply and becomes dangerous, not to mention dangerous. I prefer not to take any risks, leaving the bike to finish the last few meters on foot to take the photo I wanted.

From this spot, the view is quite similar to the Tad Fane waterfall, a long waterfall that tumbles down a very steep slope, but much wilder since there are no facilities around it.

Luckily I had my GPS (for my part, I had preloaded the map to have it offline but taking a local SIM would not be too bad). Tad Yoi remains a "bonus" waterfall, so at this stage, you can also choose to target Tad Yuang instead, more classic, more accessible.

It doesn't look like much, but it was going downhill!

Not bad for a first stunt!

Tad E-Tu Waterfall

Back on the main road, I take a small detour back to take the path leading to Tad E-Tu (pronounced i-tout). In hindsight, I think it would have been more logical to start there: it's closer and easier to access (except for one section with a slightly treacherous turn).

Pay attention to this passage.

The entrance to the resort, when it was open...

Entrance is via the E-Tu Resort, which is private land. When I visited, the site was open; you only had to pay an entrance fee of 5 kip (about €000 at the time). Today, the hotel is closed and appears abandoned, but it seems it's still possible to access the waterfall. Access is then free, provided you bypass the gate at the entrance.

A staircase descends to the foot of the waterfall, revealing a truly bucolic setting. Aside from a couple of tourists who came to enjoy the cool air, I was alone there. Also taking a moment to view the waterfall from above, I spent a good half hour soaking up the place... and snapping away, because I find the waterfall very photogenic.

Coffee Plantation – Coffee Garden Lak 45

Satisfied with my previous stop, I hit the road again without a specific goal. After these two waterfalls, I hadn't planned anything in particular. Rare enough to be noted, because usually, I'm the type to have a well-planned schedule...

To give some context: I left around 9:30 a.m. (not a very early riser, I know), and after Tad E-Tu's visit, it's already past 13 p.m. Needless to say, I'm starving.

My idea was to stop as soon as I came across a decent restaurant. Normally, I would have checked Google Maps to find a good spot, but as mentioned earlier, I chose to go without internet—just to force myself to improvise.

And it didn't take long: barely ten minutes after the E-Tu junction, I came across a large sign Coffee + Tea. I tell myself that if I don't have any food, I could at least make myself a coffee. After all, we are on the Bolovens plateau, it would be a shame not to try the local coffee. That's how I end up at Coffee Garden Lak 45.

At the time, I didn't even know it was a plantation. I thought I'd just sip my caffeine fix and leave. But after chatting with the owner, he explained that he produced his own coffee. A packet caught my eye: Lao Civet Coffee.

I already knew the process: the beans are collected after they've passed through an animal's stomach—in Thailand, it's done with elephants. Here, it's civets. The animal doesn't digest the kernel, and its gastric juices modify the structure of the bean, giving it a highly sought-after aroma. It's an expensive coffee, obviously, given the process. But someone would have to explain to me who had the idea and at what point it seems "normal" to collect this from excrement...

If I don't eat, I'll at least have my coffee (rather strong), and the owner invites me for a quick tour of his farm: washing area, drying greenhouse, and... the civet cages. I admit that the latter have dampened my mood a little.

Paksong Temple

Barely ten minutes after this impromptu break, I arrive in Paksong. Passing by a temple, planted in the middle of a vast and somewhat empty space, I stop to take some photos. The place is under construction, but a monk approaches me and invites me to take a look inside. He also shows me their living quarters: a large wooden building.

With this impromptu visit, I can't imagine not leaving something to contribute to the renovations. I then leave the temple grounds and take a look at the schoolyard just across the street. I then spot several monks visible in the doorways, the latter surely having a teaching role for this communal school.

Paksong Market + coffee break

Looking at Google Maps, I see that I'm not far from the small town's market, so I decide to drop by. Besides hoping to find something to eat there, I always like to hang around markets; they often provide interesting scenes to photograph. Well, it's clear that even if I did take a few photos of everyday life, I wouldn't find anything appetizing enough to swallow...

So I set off again, feeling hungry. Shortly after, I passed a house that looked like a small cafe. I hesitated to continue, then turned around: the place looked nice, clean, and welcoming. Back then, it was called Jhai Coffee (it's now Expresso Box Laos, still a good place).

Ahead, I see a slate with French Toast written on it. All right, let's go. With a coffee, I set off again 30 minutes later, my stomach a little less empty. It's past 15 p.m., and I still have a good hour's drive to reach the village of Captain Hook, my goal for the day.

Road between Paksong and Kok Phoung Tai village

The road is paved, so it goes by pretty quickly. I pass through a few villages, each with its own lively atmosphere. Occasionally, I come across a river where children are cooling off, while others are heading home along the road.

If around Paksong the sky was very grey and I was dreading a downpour (which is unlikely at this time of year), I was quickly reassured when, at 16 p.m., I was treated to the return of the sun, bathing the atmosphere in a soft light, as I crossed the countryside, where we could still make out workers in the fields.

I also pass through Thateng, a small town that brings a modest touch of modernity to this very rural setting. The contrast is all the more striking given that my arrival point, an ethnic village, is only 10 km away… So I continue my last few kilometers.

When I arrive at the Kok Phoung Tai village, I see some village women selling their vegetables - probably one of the few sources of income for the inhabitants of this community, which is from the Katu ethnic group. This is where I stop for the night, since I have booked a guesthouse there: the Captain Hook HomestayBehind this name, a colorful character, also a member of the Katu ethnic group, who has chosen to open his doors to travelers curious to discover an extraordinary way of life.

Even with the GPS, luckily there are a few signs indicating the direction, because I have to take a small, bumpy path, warped by the rain, to reach his house in the heart of this remote village.

Upon arrival in the village.

Night at Captain Hook's

I chose this place for several reasons. First, it was one of the only accommodations still available at the time on Agoda, my usual platform. And for $7 a night, I got a double room (so spacious), dinner and breakfast included. Unbeatable!
Everything is in the Kok Phoung Tai village, within the Katu community. This is where the famous “Captain Hook” and his wife live. A community of about 700 people, with traditions that may surprise you. One of the most visible: everyone smokes, including the youngest...

From what I have learned, they can get married as early as 8 years old, or the parents traditionally always live under the same roof as the children, until death do them part, implying that several generations can accumulate in the same house (the record being 200 members!

In Laos (as in Thailand, for that matter), the central government doesn't really like this kind of ethnic group, whose traditions differ too much from national norms (especially Buddhist ones). As a result, children are now required to attend primary school... and for men, polygamy is out!

My accommodation is secluded, at the very end of the village, which I'll be sharing with other evening companions. There's a terrace and a superb view of a hill, where the sun is beginning to tickle the ridge as my blankets are laid out for the night.

In front, there's also a pool, "sold" as the local swimming pool. It's shortly after a short moment of relaxation in the hammock that I take a photo that I like, while one of our hosts, present on the terrace, daydreams while admiring the sunset.

Shortly after these poetic moments, reality returns. The latter goes into the organic garden at the foot of the building, and it's time to head to the kitchen of the family home to watch the evening meal being prepared. This is where I meet the day's travelers.

It's pretty crazy to see that we're in a wooden house, and that the cooking fire is on the ground, fueled by... wood. On the evening menu: an assortment of vegetables, fish soup, accompanied by the inseparable rice. Obviously, if you plan to sleep there, it's best not to be too particular about hygiene. But while I didn't personally taste everything, I can say that no one got sick.

Preparation in progress…

It's a convivial moment when everyone discusses travel and traditions, while family members, including young people, pass around bamboo pipes to smoke freely. As a non-smoker, this is the thing that confuses me the most.

Once we're full, the evening isn't over yet, as our host takes us for dessert to the gardens at the back of the village. He collects crabs, crickets, and other insects that roam the area.

We set up a small fire on our terrace and, voila, enjoy. In Laos, nothing goes to waste! I won't hide the fact that I personally skipped this extra food, but the other people present all played along.

Day 2: Thateng → Mun-Houamuang

Basically, from this second day on, I had more freedom in my time management because I had no accommodation planned that evening. However, when I had roughly established my daily schedule, my original plan was to reach Attapeu to spend the night there. This represented a 2 km journey, so it was largely doable.

Knowing that when I left Pakse, I had only planned 3 days to complete the loop, since I planned to reach Pakse from Attapeu the next day. In this way, I would have visited the famous waterfalls which were the central element of this entire expedition.

Again, the title spoils your day a bit, but I didn't go as far as Attapeu...

Captain Hook Ethnic Village Tour

I've already spent quite a bit of time in Captain Hook Village. Breakfast was served as the little egg and tomato sandwiches were being prepared, along with homemade coffee, the beans of which are hand-ground with a pestle and filtered through bamboo.

And most importantly, in addition to offering Homestay, Captain Hook offers tours to travelers passing through between 9:30 a.m. and 13:30 p.m. (according to the official time slot; in practice, it ends earlier). This service is accessible to all for 20 kip. He then takes you to the plantations around the village, explaining the use of different plants and some of the traditions specific to the Katu, already mentioned above.

When this morning guided tour ends, it's time for a coffee tasting for the passing tourists, as Mr. "Captain" begins to roast the beans in a wok. During this time, I made friends with several of the occupants of the neighboring rooms, including a French-speaking Belgian, a German (or Dutch, I don't really remember, sorry...) and a Cuban. Of course, they were also making their loop, so we decided to share a stretch of the road and agreed to leave together.

On the road to Sekong

We take off shortly after noon, and we make our first stop after an hour's drive, when we come across a roadside arena with a cockfight in progress. Naturally, this piques our curiosity. It's something I'm already familiar with, since it's a practice also found among their Thai neighbors.

A few dozen minutes further on, we are surrounded by a typical Asian countryside landscape, with rice paddies in full harvest season. Here again, our small group stops to observe and photograph a slice of life, with these villagers tending the hay left in the fields, while cows graze peacefully nearby.

The next stop was a small personal suggestion. While planning, I had spotted a spot that seemed photogenic to me, on the banks of the Xe Khong River, and which didn't require a big detour from the national highway (5 km exactly). This river is the main source of water in the region and eventually flows into the Mekong, much further south—but on the Cambodian side.

I'm not unhappy with my find, because the place does indeed have its charm, with quite a few exposed rocks, the water level being rather low. You should also know that with the kind of small bike we all have, it's not designed to swallow up kilometers in one go. So getting off your butt even for a few minutes to walk a little always feels good, and everything is an excuse to stop for a little while.

The team of the day.

This is precisely why we stopped again upon disembarking at the entrance to Sekong. Our quartet quickly noticed this pillar, standing in the middle of a small esplanade. We didn't really understand its significance, but this commemorative pillar—simply marked on the map as the “Sekong Monument”—was decorated with bas-reliefs and garlands. On the esplanade, we could see a series of statues of men and women representing several of the region's ethnic groups. Each couple wore traditional attire specific to their ethnic group.

Tad Faek Waterfall

Next stop: a waterfall. We couldn't spend a day in the Bolovens without seeing one. . We descend for almost 20 km after Sekong to reach the area where there are two waterfalls, starting with Tad Faek. There are only about 3 km between the national road and the access to the waterfront.

For some reason I've forgotten (possibly we're just snacked), it took almost an hour to make this stretch of the journey from the Sekong Monument. As a result, it's almost 16:30 p.m., and the sun sets in about half an hour... Needless to say, we won't be going much further.

Watching this Lao family enjoy the waterfall setting, bathed in the beautiful golden light of late afternoon, I was reminded of the Captain Hook village I'd visited that very morning. It's crazy, though, the lifestyle differences you can encounter in Laos. Between the very urban clothing style of this family—probably city dwellers—and the traditions still deeply rooted in the Katu village, you feel like you're traveling between two worlds.

Tad Hua Khon Waterfall

As the sun begins to set, we quickly head back to the other waterfall in the area: Tad Hua Khon, which we had passed on the way to Tad Faek. Some people take advantage of the moment to bathe in the relatively clear water (but too cool for me). The light changes quickly, and the landscape quickly becomes duller. We know that we won't go any further today (no one risks driving at night in these parts).

General view of Tad Hua Khon.

Night near Mun-Houamuang

We are right next to a village, Mun-Houamuang, which is on the other side of the bridge we could see from the waterfall. But there is no need to go that far. It turns out that access to Tad Hua Khon was via the P&S Garden Restaurant, which at the time offered tents at the foot of the water, for barely $4 (70 kips from memory). The people are super welcoming (and the pug in need of cuddles participated), the place is very clean, quiet, and having a restaurant available is just perfect. Sold. No need to move for this second day which is coming to an end.

The restaurant in question (still open normally) offered good, hearty dishes, and suffice to say that after yesterday's day, I was quite hungry. Even though I was exhausted from today's stage, I still had to decide what my program would be for the next day before falling asleep, since, following the pace of the group today, I found myself having to change my plans.

Day 3: Mun-Houamuang → Attapeu → Sanamxai

On this 3rd day of the road trip, the question arose of what I was going to do... Even if it meant delaying the total duration of my loop, I had left that morning with the idea of ​​reaching Attapeu, and stopping there as planned the day before. This 3rd day became a sort of "rest" stage, to then pick up the thread of what I had planned for the 4th and last day.

Obviously, my titles spoil everything every time... and indeed, I ultimately didn't get as much rest as I had hoped.

Heading for Attapeu

Sleeping in a tent often means getting up early. This morning, the whole group enjoyed a hearty breakfast—with bread, please! Perfect for recharging their batteries while enjoying the still-mild temperatures. After a few cuddles with the lodge's pooches, it was time to say goodbye.

Personally, I would have liked to have lingered a little longer. But in the spirit of my fellow travelers, I set off again... even though our paths diverged barely 9 km further. I continued due south on National Highway 11, towards Attapeu, while they branched off onto a secondary road towards Houay Kong to reach Paksong. In short, each of us continued on our own loop. We took advantage of the stop in the village, just before the crossroads, to buy water, some snacks... and wish each other a good trip.

This is where our paths separate.

Before parting ways, I learned some very bad news: one of the girls who was with us the day before at Captain Hook's had a serious accident. She had to be rushed to a hospital in Bangkok, which is much better equipped than those in Laos. This was an opportunity to remind myself of what I said earlier: you don't set off on this kind of trip without a minimum of experience. An accident can certainly happen anywhere, but this area, as nice as it is to explore independently, is not a playground. In Asia more than anywhere else, the lack of environmental awareness among some locals makes the roads particularly dangerous—this is even more obvious in Thailand, where traffic is significantly denser.

It's then 9:9 a.m., and here I am again alone with my little motorbike. I have a whole day ahead of me, and I admit I don't really know what to do. Attapeu is only about fifty kilometers away, so barely an hour's drive... At the time, after some hesitation, I decide to return to the bridge near the waterfall, where we had passed a little earlier, because I hadn't taken a photo. It was only XNUMX km away, so the round trip is done quite quickly.

It is then 10 a.m., and I finally leave for Attapeu, through landscapes sometimes decorated with rice fields already harvested and houses scattered here and there.

A stopover in Attapeu

In the end, the road, although sometimes rough, is easy because it is in good enough condition, which means that I arrive at the entrance to Attapeu a little before 11 a.m. I tell myself that this day is going to be long... Until then, my idea was to wander around town and leave quietly the next day to do what I had originally planned for that day.

It's only been two days since I left Pakse, and yet, returning to a city that, at least on its main artery, gives off a modern feel, feels very strange. My first instinct upon arriving is to head to the market, or more precisely to Saysettha Market, which is located next to the river. Attapeu is located in a bend of the same Xe Khong River that I followed from my vantage point the day before.

It's a covered market divided into two areas, but at this time of day, activity is quite reduced. The heat this time is much more oppressive, and it doesn't really make you want to linger outside. So, I decide to get back on my motorcycle to take a tour of the city. I think I could take the opportunity to scout out a hotel for tonight. I do indeed come across a few, but since the standards are higher, they're not the same budgets...

I also come across an old shack which must have certainly had some character, once upon a time... Then I go down along the banks, where there is a floating restaurant.

Walking through what are supposed to be streets, I definitely don't feel like I'm in a city, however modest it may be. As is often the case in Laos, the cities have the air of simple, slightly upgraded towns.

Yes, it doesn't look like it, but I'm in the middle of Attapeu!

It's not even 11:30 a.m. and I'm going around in circles. Glancing at the map, I see that there's a temple on the outskirts of town. This is an opportunity to mention that in Laos, I find that we see proportionally few temples compared to its equally Buddhist neighbor. In Thailand, in a town of this size (33 inhabitants for Attapeu), you'll easily find several dozen.

Here in Attapeu, besides the one I'm going to, I only see one other in the city center: Wat LuangThis difference is surely explained by very different living standards. Fewer donations in Laos, because the population is significantly poorer than in Thailand. The fact remains that this temple, just like in Paksong, is undergoing renovation. It seems to have been redone, so I don't linger too long. I then pass by the only public park in the city.

There's a lack of trees, and the whole thing doesn't really encourage people to stay there... It's still not even noon, and I'm starting to doubt my plan to spend the night in Attapeu. At the time, I said to myself: go on, find yourself a small massage parlor and go relax. There's clearly less choice than in Thailand, but I find one fairly quickly, and what's more, a very clean parlor with air conditioning. And the advantage is that being cool and with peace of mind, I was able to think clearly. I also took advantage of the Wi-Fi to scan the map and weigh the different possible options.

As you will have already understood by reading the title of this paragraph, the decision was made to leave Attapeu and continue my journey to the Tad Sepa and Sae Pong Lai waterfalls this very afternoon.

If it still exists, the massage parlor is in this large building (although I doubt it...)

I'm leaving feeling refreshed.

Here we go again on the roads: heading for Sanamxai

It bothered me a little to have to retrace my steps, but hey, it's only 12 km between the intersection leading to the waterfalls and Sanamxai. Nothing insurmountable. The problem is that at this point in the journey, the roads haven't been paved for a while. As a result, I'm stuck in the dust for miles.

I console myself by admiring the countryside, as captivating as ever. Despite the state of the road, this stretch is anything but monotonous: here, a buffalo half-submerged in a pool of muddy water, there, a woman walking peacefully, guiding her cattle. The houses are a little more spaced out, but you're never completely alone. There's always a field to walk along, an animal to encounter, or a silhouette on the horizon. This is a corner of rural Laos, raw and alive, where the road is nothing more than a pretext for observation.

I quickly pass through Sanamxai, a small town that looks like a Wild West village, with its ever-present reddish earth, its dented and dusty main road, and its small wooden or sheet metal stalls lined up in a somewhat haphazard fashion. Only a state-of-the-art mobile phone shop stands out in this setting.

And judging by the other shops here, you can tell that life here revolves largely around agriculture, with quite a few shops dedicated to mechanics. Along the roadsides, you'll find the classic stalls selling fruit, vegetables, and sometimes a few cellophane-wrapped cakes. The atmosphere is calm and basic, and time seems to stand still under the shade of a large tree, where people chat away from the heat. I hesitate to stop there to find accommodation, but I decide to prioritize my sightseeing. Time is ticking.

Tad Sepa and Tad Sae Pong Lai

Ten kilometers further on, I arrive at the intersection where I leave the main road. Venturing into this area, I hadn't realized that this is where a tragedy had occurred shortly before. A dam under construction, further up the river, which I cross on a temporary bridge, had burst, devastating the villages located downstream...

Walking along the Vang Ngao River, I pass several abandoned houses, an almost apocalyptic setting. Only the local temple seems intact, still standing, and active. After a few more kilometers, even though I had no doubts about the route, I am still reassured to finally see a sign indicating the waterfalls on the right.

Little subtlety: Because of the Lao pronunciation, “SE” is often transcribed as “XE” — as for the Xe Khong River, a different transcription but a reference to the Sekong province. Here, the falls are indicated as “Xepha” and “Xeponglai,” all joined together, just to confuse things even more.

When I arrive near Tad Sepa, the damage from the violent flooding is obvious. But the setting is exactly what I'd hoped for: it's wild, raw... and I'm completely alone. For this first waterfall, I'm not charged an entrance fee—in fact, it's a combo ticket that I'll pay for a little later. I take the time to take a few photos, including one with my little motorbike proudly perched in front of the waterfall, then I head back towards Sae Pong Lai.

We can see that things have really taken a beating in the area.

Tad Sepa.

The two waterfalls are only 8 km apart, but it took me a good twenty minutes to reach them. Proof of my leisurely driving—or the state of the path. It follows the river north through a forested area. I then come to a junction; there's a sign, but the direction isn't indicated... Luckily, I come across some workers working near a logging operation. This is where I pay the 30 kip entrance fee to both sites.

I then turn right onto a narrower dirt road, which leads me shortly after to the foot of the waterfall. If I had gone straight ahead, I would have simply reached the upper part. But here again, I have the spot all to myself, bathed in this warm late-afternoon light, because it is already 16 p.m. The only paradox of this solitude is that it does not allow for any scale. In reality, it is a rather impressive wall of water, difficult to transcribe in a photo without anyone nearby…

As the sun begins to sink behind the treetops, I allow myself one last series of photos on the fine sandy beach found at the foot of the site. It's almost 17 p.m. when I finally leave. A small race against time begins to return to Sanamxai before nightfall...

Night in Sanamxai

As I made my way towards the end of the day, the sun behind me, I briefly considered stopping at a small guesthouse I'd spotted on the edge of town. But seeing the completely deserted surroundings—not a restaurant, not a dive, not even a shop—I figured I'd be in a real bind for dinner. So I decided to continue on to the center.

It's in the last light of day that I pass through Sanamxai again, greeted by a somewhat surreal scene: a cow standing right in the middle of the main intersection, as if striking a pose. Peaceful.

Calm.

Luckily, a few minutes later, I finally found a place to put my things: the Vonghorm Guesthouse. The entrance is a little strange at first glance, because they also have a grocery store right in front, but the sign is clearly visible, and it quickly becomes clear that the accommodation is located at the back, in the house you can see at the end of the driveway.

If I remember correctly, it was the most expensive accommodation on my loop: 300 kips, or about $000. But for that price, I was entitled to a small, air-conditioned room with a private bathroom. And since I was back in an urban area (everything is relative), I was easily able to find a small local roadside restaurant to get a well-deserved meal after this busy day.

My little evening restaurant in Sanamxai.

Day 4: Sanamxai → Don Daeng Island → return to Pakse

I knew this return would not be easy. Having already covered the 12 km after Sanamxai the day before, I understood that I could no longer count on tarmac for a good part of the journey...

The irony is that I chose to go through Attapeu knowingly: yes, it would lengthen the overall route, but on Google Maps, the route appeared in yellow, numbered like a national road (the 18). And until now, roads marked this way were always paved. So I logically expected to find a decent surface. Not at all...

Sanamxai…

…and his ATM!

Passing through Ban Khiet Ngong

So here I am, off on a 76 km dirt track. Yes, 76 km, believe me, it's a long way! Fortunately, knowing the often dusty Laotian roads, I had the bare minimum: a scarf to cover my mouth, and long sleeves to protect me from the blazing sun.

The road conditions vary quite a bit: sometimes smooth and rolling, sometimes rocky and more difficult, where I clearly have to take it easy or I'll slip. I encounter few people and pass through a few villages, but this time I stop only a few times, just to have time for the visits planned for the day.

Even though it's towards the end of this long, bumpy road, I wanted to stop at the village of Ban Khiet Ngong. It seemed picturesque, bordered by a lake—even if I still can't decide whether it's natural or artificial. The site is also attractive enough to house a renowned resort in the region: the Kingfisher Ecolodge, nestled in a quiet area with a view of the flooded plains.

By the time I arrive at the village, I've been trudging along this bumpy track since Sanamxai for a good two hours. Needless to say, it feels good to slow down a bit. The place exudes a quiet charm, with its traditional houses on stilts, its small temple hidden in the trees, and the children coming out of school in uniform. The scenes of daily life are simple but full of authenticity: a farmer walking home laden with wood, an old lady helping her son on a farm.

I struggle a bit to reach the shores of the lake, because the only path I can find, going straight past the village, is frankly dangerous. But I admit: without being exceptional, the area has something. I see a few birds, fishermen in the distance, a man with a cone hat, crouching at the water's edge and the boats, waiting in the reeds... In short, a real little corner of Lao life as we like them.

On the way back, I take the time for one last look at the village. It was a peaceful interlude, a detour without regret, which only took me about twenty minutes round trip from the dirt road.

Wat Tomo and Don Daeng Island

I still had 10 km of dirt road left from Ban Khiet Ngong to reach the intersection with National Road 13, near Thang Beng. I can't tell you how relieved I was to find a proper road, which would take me back to Pakse in no time. But before returning to my starting point, I still had to complete the day's visits. In my sights: Wat Tomo. A small Khmer temple lost in the middle of the woods, on the banks of the Mekong, which I found again after several days around the Bolovens Plateau.

Come on, just one more little effort!

Back on the banks of the Mekong.

Next, I headed for Don Daeng Island. After crossing via a basic boat, I spent a little time exploring this piece of land in the middle of the river. In addition to a few villages, there are several temples and even a large white sand beach. This is where I treated myself to my little treat of the stay, as a reward after this intense morning, by stopping to enjoy a good burger at the restaurant of the chic hotel on the island, La Folie Lodge.

View of Wat Tomo.

To conclude quickly : I then reached the mainland, the boat dropping me off this time at the height of the Champassak Terminal West, just north of the city (of Champassak). I then had just 30 minutes left to reach Pakse and complete this 4-day loop, and approximately 400 km, through the south of Laos.

It smells like the end!

For those with a slightly more flexible schedule, it is possible to return via the Champassak East Terminal and take the opportunity to make a final stop at the waterfall of Tad Koy Loy Far, before finally returning to Paksé (I also talk about it in my article on Champassak).

A demanding but unforgettable loop

Which I close with my eyes still full of images. Four days, 400 kilometers, a few detours and just as many memories: this great loop in the Bolovens will remain a highlight of my various stays in Laos. Would I do it again? Clearly, yes—even if I'm not going to lie, some sections are a bit hot (hello, the dust between Sanamxai and Ban Khiet Ngong).

It also requires a good dose of resourcefulness, especially if you're going off the beaten track. In my case, understanding Lao, which is perfectly understandable if you know Thai, is an undeniable plus.

But beyond that, what a treasure: isolated waterfalls, remote villages, unspoiled nature and countryside, and that feeling of exploration that's becoming rare. In short, if you have a little time and the desire to go further than just the "little loop," go for it.

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