Chanthaburi: what to do and see in the “moon city”
Chanthaburi attracts its share of Thai tourists, but most foreigners ignore it – and that’s a shame. The cultural mix of the provincial capital is very eclectic, sometimes Thai, Chinese, Vietnamese, Chong (Mon / Khmer), Shan, and even French (I'll come back to it after), the influences are multiple and the architecture of the old town reflects this. Its riverside atmosphere, named Chanthaboon waterfront, its delicious mix of local dishes, enhances a stroll through the old town, where you will make the most of the architectural wealth of Chanthaburi.
Chanthaburi can be translated as “the city of the moon” (from two Sanskrit words, chantha for "moon" and every for "city"), which explains the title.
The city has made a solid reputation for itself in the precious stone trade thanks to the mines in the region. (rubies and sapphires for many) and it is also a region producing tropical fruits including the famous durian, Chanthaburi alone accounting for the equivalent of almost a third of world production.
If we add to that the character of the eponymous province offering varied landscapes, from the coast with its share of beaches to the mountains which exceed 1 meters, Chanthaburi is a step not to be missed if you go for example to Koh Chang, Ko Kood or even if you are on Ko's side Samet.
History of Chanthaburi
If you are a regular reader, you know that I always attach importance to knowing the history of a city/region. So, there’s no reason why I shouldn’t give you a summary here! And I can start with one of the influences mentioned above concerning the region, the Chong. An ethnic group related to the Khmers of Cambodia and more precisely part of the group of peoples called " pear-shaped" This term refers to indigenous groups, including the pears (Frenchification of the word pear tree), same, chong, samray and bag, who speak one of the languages of the "pears".
The seal of the province represents the moon rabbit.
A crucial military base at the fall of Ayutthaya
If the presence of a Chong community dates back to the 1350th century, it is proven during the period of the kingdom of Ayutthaya (1767-XNUMX). It is also at the fall of the empire following the sacking of the capital by the Burmese that Chanthaburi will play an important role. Indeed, after the destruction of Ayutthaya and the death of the last sovereign (King Suriyamarin), the country found itself divided into six, of which Taksin found himself controlling the eastern part.
So to put things in context, because you are not necessarily familiar with this name, it was the latter who played a major role in the defense of the city and managed to leave the siege of Ayutthaya at the head of a small army shortly before its fall, in his capacity as general (alongside a certain Thong Duang, another general better known under the name of Chao Phraya Chakri, future founder of Bangkok and of the reigning dynasty still today).
A representation of King Taksin.
However, it so happens that among his main rivals was the Prince of Chanthaburi. A taxi, then still a general, he seized the city by force in June 1767 and chose Chanthaburi to establish a rear base there and raise an army (the numbers at the time barely exceeded 500 individuals), in order to drive the Burmese out of Thailand. In the process, he obtained the submission of Trat, neighbor of Cambodia (which later became a vassal state of Siam). All right decided to to reunite the country, he set out with many ships along the Gulf of Thailand and sailed up the Chao Phraya to the Burmese camp of Pho Sam Ton, located not far from the remains ofAyutthaya. Defeated after two days, it was November 7, 1767 and this action is considered a symbol of the country's liberation. A taxi subsequently established his capital at Thon Buri (today a district of Bangkok facing Rattanakosin, the old town of Bangkok) and was then able to set about the task of restoring order to the kingdom. Chanthaburi's fate was sealed.
The city therefore honors this king by dedicating a park to his name and above all a shrine, Somdej Phrachao Taksin Maharat Shrine, which attracts many faithful every day, leaving offerings and praying.
Chanthaburi and France
If we go back more recently in history, Chanthaburi developed thanks to the trade in precious stones, following the exploitation of mines which attracted Chinese merchants (another architectural influence of the city) but also, paradoxically, Burmese (Shan, we come back to the names mentioned in the intro). Then came the French episode. I said I would get to it. Because yes, Chanthaburi was "French", at least, remained occupied from 1893 to 1905.
This episode followed a clash between the French army and Siam, the Paknam crisis, as it is called. If I try to summarize the affair, in July 1893, three French ships violated Siamese territory and received warning shots from a Siamese fort and a gunboat, to which the French navy responded, toll 3 dead on the French side, 16 on the Siamese side. Their intention was to join the French gunboat Lutin already anchored off the French embassy in Bangkok.
The three French ships approaching.
The Thai fort in action.
But the Siamese forbade the French gunboats from crossing the bar, as this was a violation of the Franco-Siamese treaty of 1856 which allowed free passage of the French to Paknam Island (located at the mouth of the Chao Phraya) but did not allow more than one warship present in Bangkok. The French commander, Captain Borey, had not at that time received a telegram of updated instructions from Paris to maintain his position at the mouth of the river (as it was not received by the French consul Auguste Pavie until the following day). Pavie, however, having informed him of the Siamese position, suggested that they drop anchor off Koh Sichang and await further instructions. But Captain Borey was under pressure as his ships could only cross the bar at high tide and so chose to follow the orders of Rear Admiral Edgar Humann based in Saigon rather than advice from Pavia, forcing passage through Paknam.
A representation of the grounding of the JB Say.
In the ensuing battle, France blocked passage over the Chao Phraya in Bangkok and aimed his guns at the Grand Palace in order to exert pressure and clarify the situation regarding other colonial claims in the region, France being then in full expansion in what was to become French Indochina. The consequences of this act were the signing of a treaty on October 3, 1893, under the terms of which Siam simply bowed to the French ultimatum and renounced all claims to all the territories on the left bank of the Mekong and to the islands in the river. Translation: they were robbed the future Laos that we integrated into the colony and the annexation of the province of You reap, weakening Siam's control of Cambodian territories.
Upon taking possession of Trat, neighboring Chanthaburi province.
And by the same token, I end up returning to the subject of the day, they obtained provisional control of the port of Chanthaburi, during the period of approval of the agreements, until 1905. France then occupied Chanthaburi to ensure its safety, and only withdrew when the annexation of You reap was sealed (with the treaty of 1907, the provinces of Sisophon et Battambang were added, marking the borders still in force between Thailand and Cambodia today).
And because France also occupied the territory of Vietnam , Chanthaburi received several "waves" of Vietnamese immigrants (Annamites more precisely), from the end of the 19th century during the establishment of the Cochin China and then in the 20s to 40s. A final wave fled the war Vietnam until 1975, thus explaining the Vietnamese influence that can be found in Chanthaburi, and explaining all the origins mentioned in intro, phew!
Good thing I said I was going to write a “summary”! I get carried away quickly, but I wanted to explain the historical context detailing the different influences characterizing the city. And as they say, when you love, you don't count, so I wasn't going to count the words to share with you this atypical story that ultimately concerns us directly.
Much of the information in this section comes from a well-researched history enthusiast's blog, also based in Thailand (see source).
Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception Cathedral
And all these explanations below therefore help you to understand the origin of the cathedral of Chanthaburi. Because yes, you see the thing coming, it was the French who initiated its construction. At least, the current version. Because the presence of a church is attested at Chanthaburi as early as 1711, that is, more than 300 years ago! Built then by a community of Vietnamese Annamites.
During the French occupation, it was rebuilt larger and in Gothic style, but remained unfinished after 12 years of presence. What was still only a church was then completed from 1906 and it took several more years to add all the decorative elements such as the stained glass windows which present a certain number of Christian saints. The inauguration of the new church took place in 1909 and it was in 1944 that the building obtained the status of cathedral, establishing the diocese of Chanthaburi.
Chanthaburi Cathedral Square.
The cathedral is 60 metres long, but it is the 20-metre-high towers that help make it one of the most important and visible monuments in Chantaburi, this also makes it the largest Catholic building in all of Thailand. One of the unique features of the cathedral is Chanthaburi is the statue of the Virgin Mary located on a golden platform in front of the altar. Chanthaburi is famous for its gemstone trade and the glittering, jewel-encrusted statue showcases the work of the local people who donated it (it is estimated that it is covered by more than 200 stones).
The magnificent statue of the Virgin Mary encrusted with thousands of precious stones.
Interior of the cathedral.
Located just a stone's throw from the Chanthaburi River, a footbridge spans the water and provides easy access to the city's historic riverside district.
On the footbridge crossing the river in front of the cathedral.
Chanthaboon waterfront community
Chanthaboon was simply the name given by the French to the city at the time of the occupation. This street (Sukhaphiban road) being parallel to the river, this is where the term "waterfront" comes from, which can be translated as shore. And the riverside community of Chanthaburi today exudes a charm due to the mixture of old buildings preserved (as best it can) and attracts people on weekends with its shops energizing the area.
We are arriving.
It was precisely in this context that we showed up on this street, after arriving from the cathedral located just opposite and accessible via a footbridge offering a photogenic view of the surroundings. I would like to take this opportunity to point out that although we had already been to the Chanthaburi region 10 years ago, we had not had time to set foot in the city, located about 20 km from the seaside (we had originally made a detour because we were going to the island of Ko Samet). We therefore took advantage of this return to the province to explore this little-known region in more depth and thus visit the city. We also benefited from better weather than during our previous visit, making everything more pleasant.
Here, crumbling French-built houses mix with Chinese merchant shops and historic Sino-Thai temples. All nestled in narrow, ancient alleys that wind along the river. Chanthaburi. This is an interesting area to explore. Some of the older buildings are being redeveloped, renovated and turned into small cafes and restaurants as well as a few characterful guest houses for people who want to stay in the old town.
We crossed it in its entire length up to the foot of the What Boots Muang, where there is a bridge from which I got an iconic photo of Chanthaboon Waterfront (at the top of the article). In addition to the liveliness of the street, the merchants and the facades of the buildings, we came across murals adding to the appeal of the place.
Taksin Shrine and other temples of Chanthaburi
I mentioned it above, on a hill overlooking the old town of Chanthaburi, there is a shrine dedicated to the king A taxi, marking the Thais' recognition of the one who is perceived as a liberator. The sanctuary is decorated with a roof symbolizing the royal helmet of A taxi.
Its location is not insignificant, it is located next to the camp A taxi, name given to the location of what is today the 2nd Battalion of the 1st Infantry Regiment of the Marine Division. But if you have read the historical part, you can deduce that this camp was precisely the very location where the French settled during the occupation of Chanthaburi.
The shrine dedicated to King Taksin.
Inside the sanctuary.
French forces set up camp in what was once a village (called Ban Lum), today “Camp Taksin ». Of the buildings that were built, only a few remains remain, due to lack of maintenance for decades. Today, only the former headquarters, the artillery depot, the logistics section, a material warehouse and arsenal no. 5 remain standing. (formerly the powder mill), and arsenal no. 6 (similar to the Red Building of Laem Sing, where another French camp was located).
Additionally, it is also here, right next to the Taksin Shrine, that the building containing the city's protective pillar is located. A constant in all cities in Thailand, it is the heart of the city and considered essential for its protection, a bit like a "spirit house" if you are familiar with the concept, but on a city scale.
The city pillar shrine in Chanthaburi.
An important temple in the city, the What Fade Lom (วัดไผ่ล้อม), a royal monastery dating from the period ofAyutthaya. The latter is mainly visited for its large reclining Buddha covered in gilding. The temple being 500 m from the cathedral, the two visits can be easily combined. Another notable temple, the What Khetnaboonyaram (วัดเขตร์นาบุญญาราม), with obvious Chinese influence, with its post decorated with dragons and its yellow and red colors dominant.
A chapel at Wat Phai Lom.
"Capital of precious stones"
For several centuries now, Chanthaburi became a wealthy town due to the gemstone mines in the nearby hills. Prospectors having flocked from all over Southeast Asia to exploit these riches, today there is an entire street dedicated to the sale of these jewels decorated with stones from the region. Mainly, there were veins of sapphires and rubies, which are almost out of print today, but the reputation of Chanthaburi as a gem center continues to thrive.
The city's gemstone street (centered around Si Chan Road) attracts gemstone traders from all over the world. Chanthaburi specialized in "cooking" of stones, a process of skillfully heating gemstones to enhance their appearance and therefore their value (although this method is not always recommended).
This is the perfect place in Thailand to buy blue sapphires, rubies, emeralds and other stones at wholesale prices. Not all of them originate from Thai mines but are imported from abroad, he therefore It is best to let experts buy and sell your gemstones.
Walking tour through Chanthaburi
If until now I have given you a rather "formal" presentation of the places, here is what our route through the old town of Chanthaburi, giving you an overall idea of what you can see there and thus usefully summarizing this article.
And so we started with the famous cathedral. We were there not only on a weekend, but more precisely on New Year's Eve, so there were quite a few people, and of course a Christmas tree standing next to the building. The opportunity to point out that if you want to celebrate Christmas in Thailand, Chanthaburi is a destination that lends itself very well to this!
From the outskirts of the cathedral square, we can see some beautiful wooden houses and we feel that Chanthaburi has kept a clear trace of its history. The view of the river from the footbridge already gives an idea of the atmosphere emanating from this medium-sized town. (a little less than 30 inhabitants), with these houses on stilts and a typical mix of recent and less recent. And from the first steps in the alleyway before us, I am won over by the place, despite a crowd slightly hindering the taking of photos.
View of the Chanthaburi riverfront from the walkway next to the cathedral.
A beautiful wooden house adjoining the cathedral square.
In the old street (Chanthaboon Waterfront).
After a short break in a nice local café and a few photos, we continued our walk along the old street. It was at this moment that we passed by the temple What Khetnaboonyaram, with very Chinese decorations and next to which there is an old market, Phokhasiri Basket Market, especially lively in the morning (open from 7h à 14h).
A nice little cafe.
The facade of the Khetnabooyaram temple.
The adjacent old market (Phokhasiri market).
Before reaching the end of the What Bo Muang, we stopped to throw a eye in an old house whose lower floor exhibits some period objects with free access while it is a small hotel on the banks of the river (if you are interested, it is the Luang Rajamaitri Historic Inn).
Inside the Luang Rajamaitri Historic Inn.
This area is more lined with wooden houses, changing facades to "hard" ones at the beginning of the street. But it is after the hotel that we will see what is I think the most "beautiful" part of the street, just before Wat Bot Muang. There we came across another Chinese sanctuary on a promontory and especially a beautiful alignment of house facades in the French style of the time. I really like the idea that it is still preserved and given the dynamism they are trying to bring with local tourism, it should remain as such and it is so much the better for the heritage of future generations. It was shortly after that I took the photo on the other side of the bridge.
We then climbed the small hill to reach the What Boots Muang, and we reached the sanctuary dedicated to A taxi just in front of the camp A taxi less than 400 m after the temple. In doing so, we passed some beautiful old houses. (but unfortunately poorly maintained), and in front of the archives room of Chanthaburi, located in a century-old building built shortly after the departure of the French.
In the courtyard of Wat Bot Muang.
The facade of the Nonthaburi Archives Hall (dating from 1916).
We first went to the city pillar, where people were rushing to pray at the end of the year before going for a tour of the military camp to see the old barracks. The time to tour the place and for Jitima to pay homage to the king and 45 minutes had already passed. We made a new stop shortly after in un coffee, just to have a snack. To do this, we passed in front of the YOU and ME CAFÉ and BREW BAR located along the street Thetsaban, 200 meters from the sanctuary of A taxi.
The city pillar shrine.
At the You and Me cafe.
Another kilometer and we arrived at the market of suan Mamuang (which can be translated as the mango garden), located next to a temple of the same name and close to another market, Nampu market. We were passing by the What Khetnaboonyaram before joining again Chanthaboon Waterfront and return to the footbridge crossing the river to the cathedral.
Just before Suan Mamuang Market.
The courtyard of Wat Suan Mamuang temple.
The loop is closed. However, we didn't stop there, because I wanted to take a look at the royal temple, the What Fade Lom. For this, we made a little extra by walking in the community next to my cathedral and the river, crossing paths with a few more street arts and beautiful specimens of houses. In total, it was a walk of about 5 km, as the heat was not excessive, it was easy.
What to do and see in Chanthaburi province?
Because I will detail all of this in a dedicated article, I will not go into detail here, but I still wanted to mention the possible visits in the surroundings of the city, just to make you want to take a trip to this beautiful region even more.
Delimitation of Chanthaburi province.
Beaches in Chanthaburi
And because the province borders the sea, we start with the most obvious, the beaches. First you have that of Kung Wiman, located not far from the peninsula of Noen Nangphaya where we had subsequently stayed (at Peggy's cove resort). There is also Hat Chao Lao, the beach we went to during our first stay and finally, what could be called the “main” beach, Laem Sing.
Another small beach nearby (Ao Krathing).
Laem Sing Beach.
Laem Sing
And right near this beach you have several points of interest. Starting with the peninsula, where there is an old lighthouse from where you can admire the view of the province. Near the beach, you have the "red house", which served as a barracks during the French occupation as well as a former prison (only a small one remains tour).
View of the province from the peninsula lighthouse.
Noen Nangphaya
Another very photogenic peninsula thanks to the viewpoint at the end of the scenic road leading to it and bordering the sea. Below is a fishing village and a small pagoda on the water (Hua Laem) from where you can admire the bay.
View from Noen Nangphaya Peninsula.
Namtok Phlio National Park
I cannot end this overview of the province without mentioning its main national park, whose name refers to the waterfall located there. (the site is also called national park of Khao Sa bap, in reference to the mountain where this park is located natural). For the record, if you type “Province of Chanthaburi in Google Maps, it is the photo of this fall which normally appears first (in the area to the left of the map). I'm mentioning this because, on the one hand, it shows that it is considered one of the "flagship" points of the said province (at least for Google), but also because at the time of writing this article, it was my own photo that was displayed!
Waterfall in Nam Tok Phlio National Park.
I won't tell you more here, however, because I wrote an article detailing the information you need to know about this national park (and the others to see in the Chanthaburi province).
Where to sleep in Chanthaburi?
D Varee Diva Rimnaam Chanthaburi
Budget: from €54
As it was our New Year's Eve stay, we wanted something a little more upscale, as a sort of end of year reward for all the hard work. And in terms of value for money, we found the D Varee as the best option. We had a large, comfortable room that overlooked the pool and the river that runs alongside the hotel. On the other hand, it is still preferable to have a vehicle, because on foot, you will not have much around (it is 2 km from Chanthaboon Waterfront).
Getting to Chanthaburi
Chanthaburi is 250 km from Bangkok, on the road to the islands of Ko Chang, Ko Mak and Ko Kood, located in neighboring Trat province.
- The aircraft : there is no airport in Chanthaburi. The nearest ones are Trat, 80 km away and possibly Pattaya (U-Tapao).
- The bus and minivan: for the bus station ofEkkamai located along the avenue Sukhumvit In Bangkok you will have regular bus departures and minivans (Triple T) going towards Chanthaburi. count 4h of journey with departure between 6h et 18h for about 260 Baht (8 €) if in a minivan. There are fewer choices of schedules, but you will also have minivans (from the same company) also departing from the new station " Morchit New Van Terminal”, located under the highway opposite the Mo Bus Terminal Chit. Note that if you are coming from Trat (and the islands), buses connecting Bangkok pass and stop at Chanthaburi. Book your tickets to Chanthaburi
- By car : si you rent a car, count 3h30 check the route mini to reach the city of Chanthaburi from Bangkok. First join the highway leading to the international airport (S) then exit on route 344 when you reach the exit for Chonburi, Ban man and stay left (direction Ban man, after Chonburi). Continue on Route 344 to the town of Thang Kwian where you will join the main road n°3 which will take you to the outskirts of Chanthaburi.
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