Chanthaburi: what to do and see in the “moon city”

Chanthaburi attracts its share of Thai tourists, but most foreigners overlook it – and that's a shame. The provincial capital boasts a very eclectic cultural mix, encompassing Thai, Chinese, Vietnamese, Chong (Mon/Khmer), Shan, and even French influences (more on that later). These diverse influences are reflected in the architecture of the old town. Its riverside atmosphere, along the Chanthaboon waterfront, and its delicious array of local dishes enhance a stroll through the old town, where you can best appreciate Chanthaburi's rich architectural heritage.

Chanthaburi can be translated as "the city of the moon" (from two Sanskrit words, chantha for "moon" and buri for "city"), which explains the title.

The city has built a solid reputation in the precious stone trade thanks to the region's mines (rubies and sapphires for the most part) and it is also a producing region of tropical fruits including the famous durian, with Chanthaburi alone accounting for the equivalent of almost a third of the world's production.

Add to that the character of the province of the same name, offering varied landscapes, from the coast with its many beaches to the mountains that exceed 1,600 meters, Chanthaburi is a stop not to be missed if you are going for example to Koh Chang, Ko Kood or even if you are on the side of Ko Samet.

CHANTHABURI'S STORY

If you're a regular reader, you know I always value learning about the history of a city or region. So, there's no reason I shouldn't give you a summary here! And I can start with one of the influences mentioned earlier concerning the region: the Chong. An ethnic group related to the Khmer of Cambodia, and more specifically belonging to the group of peoples known as "Poiric." This term refers to indigenous groups, including the Pears (a French adaptation of the word "pear tree"), the Samre, the Chong, the Samray, and the Saoch, who speak one of the "pear" languages.

A crucial military base following the fall of Ayutthaya

If the presence of a Chong community dates back to the 1350th century, it is proven during the period of the kingdom of Ayutthaya (1767-XNUMX). It is also at the fall of the empire following the sacking of the capital by the Burmese that Chanthaburi will play an important role. Indeed, after the destruction of Ayutthaya and the death of the last sovereign (King Suriyamarin), the country found itself divided into six, of which Taksin found himself controlling the eastern part.

So to put things in context, because you are not necessarily familiar with this name, it was the latter who played a major role in the defense of the city and managed to leave the siege of Ayutthaya at the head of a small army shortly before its fall, in his capacity as general (alongside a certain Thong Duang, another general better known under the name of Chao Phraya Chakri, future founder of Bangkok and of the reigning dynasty still today).

However, it so happened that among his main rivals was the Prince of Chanthaburi. Taksin, then still a general, seized the city by force in June 1767 and chose Chanthaburi to establish his rear base and raise an army (the forces at the time barely exceeding 500 individuals), in order to drive the Burmese out of Thailand.

In the aftermath, he secured the submission of Trat, Cambodia's neighbor (which would later become a vassal state of Siam). Determined to reunite the country, he set sail with numerous ships along the Gulf of Thailand and up the Chao Phraya River to the Burmese encampment of Pho Sam Ton, located not far from the ruins of Ayutthaya.

Defeated after two days, on November 7, 1767, this action is considered a symbol of the country's liberation. Taksin subsequently established his capital in Thonburi (now a district of Bangkok opposite Rattanakosin, Bangkok's old city) and was then able to set about restoring order to the kingdom. Chanthaburi's fate was sealed.

The city therefore honors this king by dedicating a park to his name and above all a shrine, Somdej Phrachao Taksin Maharat Shrine, which attracts many faithful every day, leaving offerings and praying.

Chanthaburi and France

If we go back more recently in history, Chanthaburi developed thanks to the trade in precious stones, following the exploitation of mines which attracted Chinese merchants (another architectural influence of the city) but also, paradoxically, Burmese (Shan, we come back to the names mentioned in the intro). Then came the French episode. I said I would get to it. Because yes, Chanthaburi was "French", at least, remained occupied from 1893 to 1905.

This episode followed a clash between the French army and Siam, the Paknam crisis, as it is called. If I try to summarize the affair, in July 1893, three French ships violated Siamese territory and received warning shots from a Siamese fort and a gunboat, to which the French navy responded, toll 3 dead on the French side, 16 on the Siamese side. Their intention was to join the French gunboat Lutin already anchored off the French embassy in Bangkok.

But the Siamese forbade the French gunboats from crossing the bar, as this constituted a violation of the 1856 Franco-Siamese treaty, which allowed free passage for the French as far as Paknam Island (located at the mouth of the Chao Phraya River) but permitted no more than one warship to be present in Bangkok. The French commander, Captain Borey, had not yet received a telegram of updated instructions from Paris to maintain his position at the river mouth (as he was only received by the French consul, Auguste Pavie, the following day).

Pavie, having informed him of the Siamese position, suggested anchoring off Koh Sichang and awaiting further instructions. However, Captain Borey was under pressure because his ships could only cross the bar at high tide, and he chose to follow the orders of Rear Admiral Edgar Humann, based in Saigon, rather than Pavie's advice, forcing his way through to Paknam.

In the ensuing battle, France blocked passage over the Chao Phraya River in Bangkok and pointed its cannons at the Grand Palace in an attempt to exert pressure and clarify the situation regarding other colonial claims in the region, as France was then expanding into what would become French Indochina.

The consequences of this act were the signing of a treaty on October 3, 1893, under the terms of which Siam simply bowed to the French ultimatum and renounced all claims to the territories on the left bank of the Mekong and to the river islands. In other words, they seized what would become Laos, which was incorporated into the colony, and also annexed the province of Siem Reap, weakening Siam's control over Cambodian territories.

And so, I finally returned to the topic of the day; they obtained provisional control of the port of Chanthaburi during the period of approval of the agreements, until 1905. France then occupied Chanthaburi to ensure its security, and only withdrew when the annexation of Siem Reap was sealed (with the treaty of 1907, the provinces of Sisophon and Battambang were added, marking the borders still in force between Thailand and Cambodia today).

And because France also occupied the territory of Vietnam, Chanthaburi received several "waves" of Vietnamese immigrants (more precisely Annamites), from the end of the 19th century during the establishment of Cochin China and then in the 1920s to 1940s. A final wave fled the Vietnam War until 1975, thus explaining the Vietnamese influence that can be found in Chanthaburi, and explaining all the origins mentioned in the introduction, phew!

I'm so glad I said I was going to write a "summary"! I get carried away easily, but I really wanted to explain the historical context, detailing the various influences that have shaped the city. And as they say, when you love something, you don't count the words, so I wasn't going to hold back when sharing this unusual story with you, a story that, in the end, directly concerns us all.

Much of the information in this section comes from a well-researched history enthusiast's blog, also based in Thailand (see source).

Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception Cathedral

And all these explanations above help you understand the origin of Chanthaburi Cathedral. Because yes, you see where this is going, it was indeed the French who initiated its construction! At least, the current version. For we do have evidence of a church in Chanthaburi, built by a community of Vietnamese Annamites as early as 1711, that is, more than 300 years ago!

During the French occupation, it was rebuilt larger and in a Gothic style, but remained unfinished after the 12 years of occupation. What was still just a church was then completed starting in 1906, and it took several more years to add all the decorative elements, such as the stained-glass windows depicting a number of Christian saints. The new church was consecrated in 1909, and in 1944 the building was elevated to the status of cathedral, establishing the Diocese of Chanthaburi.

The cathedral is 60 meters long, but it is the 20-meter-high towers that make it one of Chanthaburi's most prominent and visible landmarks, and also the largest Catholic church in all of Thailand. One of the unique features of Chanthaburi Cathedral is the statue of the Virgin Mary on a gilded platform in front of the altar. Chanthaburi is famous for its gem trade, and the glittering, jewel-encrusted statue showcases the work of the local people who donated it (it is estimated to be covered with over 200,000 stones).

Located just a stone's throw from the Chanthaburi River, a footbridge spans the water and provides easy access to the city's historic riverside district.

Chanthaboon waterfront community

Chanthaboon was simply the name given by the French to the city at the time of the occupation. This street (Sukhaphiban road) being parallel to the river, this is where the term "waterfront" comes from, which can be translated as shore. And the riverside community of Chanthaburi today exudes a charm due to the mixture of old buildings preserved (as best it can) and attracts people on weekends with its shops energizing the area.

It was precisely in this context that we showed up on this street, after arriving from the cathedral located just opposite and accessible via a footbridge offering a photogenic view of the surroundings. I would like to take this opportunity to point out that although we had already been to the Chanthaburi region 10 years ago, we had not had time to set foot in the city, located about 20 km from the seaside (we had originally made a detour because we were going to the island of Ko Samet). We therefore took advantage of this return to the province to explore this little-known region in more depth and thus visit the city. We also benefited from better weather than during our previous visit, making everything more pleasant.

Here, crumbling houses built by the French mingle with Chinese merchants' shops and historic Sino-Thai temples. All of this is nestled in narrow, ancient alleyways that wind along the Chanthaburi River. It's an interesting area to explore. Some of the older buildings have been repurposed, renovated, and transformed into small cafes and restaurants, as well as a few charming guesthouses for those who wish to stay in the old town.

We crossed it in its entire length up to the foot of the What Boots Muang, where there is a bridge from which I got an iconic photo of Chanthaboon Waterfront (at the top of the article). In addition to the liveliness of the street, the merchants and the facades of the buildings, we came across murals adding to the appeal of the place.

Taksin Shrine and other temples of Chanthaburi

As I mentioned earlier, on a hill overlooking the old town of Chanthaburi, there is a shrine dedicated to King Taksin, marking the Thai people's gratitude towards the man perceived as a liberator. The shrine is adorned with a roof symbolizing Taksin's royal helmet.

Its location is not insignificant; it is situated next to Camp Taksin, the name given to the site of what is now the 2nd Battalion of the 1st Infantry Regiment of the Marine Division. But if you have read the historical section, you can deduce that this camp was precisely the location where the French established themselves during the occupation of Chanthaburi.

French forces established a camp in what was then just a village (called Ban Lum), now known as "Camp Taksin". Of the buildings that were constructed, only a few remnants remain, due to decades of neglect. Today, only the former headquarters, the artillery depot, the logistics section, a supply depot, Arsenal No. 5 (formerly the gunpowder factory), and Arsenal No. 6 (similar to the Red Building at Laem Sing, where another French camp was located) still stand.

Additionally, it is also here, right next to the Taksin Shrine, that the building containing the city's protective pillar is located. A constant in all cities in Thailand, it is the heart of the city and considered essential for its protection, a bit like a "spirit house" if you are familiar with the concept, but on a city scale.

An important temple in the city is Wat Phai Lom (วัดไผ่ล้อม), a royal monastery dating back to the Ayutthaya period. It is primarily visited for its large, gilded reclining Buddha. Since the temple is only 500 meters from the cathedral, the two visits can easily be combined. Another notable temple is Wat Khetnaboonyaram (วัดเขตร์นาบุญญาราม), which clearly shows Chinese influence with its dragon-decorated pillars and dominant yellow and red colors.

"Capital of precious stones"

For centuries, Chanthaburi has been a wealthy city thanks to the gemstone mines in the nearby hills. Prospectors flocked from all over Southeast Asia to exploit these riches, and today there is an entire street dedicated to selling jewelry adorned with local stones. The mines were primarily composed of sapphires and rubies, which are now almost depleted, but Chanthaburi's reputation as a gem center continues to thrive.

The city's gem street (centered around Si Chan Road) attracts gem traders from all over the world. Chanthaburi specializes in "baking" gemstones, a process of skillfully heating them to enhance their appearance and thus their value (although this method is not always recommended).

This is the ideal place in Thailand to buy blue sapphires, rubies, emeralds, and other gemstones at wholesale prices. Since not all of them originate from Thai mines but are imported from abroad, it's best to leave the buying and selling of precious stones to experts.

Walking tour through Chanthaburi

If up to this point I have given you a rather "formal" presentation of the places, here is what our route was through the old town of Chanthaburi, giving you an overall idea of ​​what you can see there and thus usefully summarizing this article.

So we started with the famous cathedral. We were there not only on a weekend, but more precisely on New Year's Eve, so it was quite crowded, and of course, a Christmas tree stood proudly next to the building. This is a good opportunity to mention that if you want to celebrate Christmas in Thailand, Chanthaburi is a perfect destination!

From the outskirts of the cathedral square, you can see some beautiful wooden houses and sense that Chanthaburi has clearly preserved a trace of its history. The view of the river from the footbridge already gives you a sense of the atmosphere of this mid-sized city (just under 30,000 inhabitants), with its houses on stilts and a typical mix of modern and older buildings. And from the first steps into the alleyway that unfolds before us, I'm captivated by the place, despite a crowd that slightly hinders taking photos.

After a short break in a nice local cafe and a few photos, we resumed our walk along the old street. It was at this point that we passed by the Wat Khetnaboonyaram temple, with its very Chinese decorations, and next to which is an old market, Phokhasiri Market, which is especially lively in the morning (open from 7 a.m. to 14 p.m.).

Before reaching the end at Wat Bo Muang, we stopped to take a look at an old house whose lower floor displays some period objects freely, even though it's a small hotel on the riverbank (if you're interested, it's the Luang Rajamaitri Historic Inn).

This area is lined mostly with wooden houses, changing from more "hard" facades at the beginning of the street. But it's after the hotel that you'll see what I think is the most "beautiful" part of the street, just before Wat Bot Muang. There, on a promontory, you'll find another Chinese shrine and, above all, a beautiful row of house facades in the period French style. I really like the idea that it's still preserved, and given the dynamism they're trying to bring with local tourism, it should remain as it is, which is all the better for the heritage of future generations. It was shortly after that I took the photo on the other side of the bridge.

We then climbed the small hill to reach Wat Bot Muang, and continued to the shrine dedicated to Taksin, located just in front of the Taksin camp, less than 400 meters past the temple. Along the way, we passed some beautiful old houses (though unfortunately poorly maintained), and the Chanthaburi archive hall, housed in a century-old building constructed shortly after the French left.

We first went to the city pillar, where crowds had gathered to pray at the end of the year, before heading to the military camp to see the old barracks. By the time we'd finished our tour and Jitima had paid homage to the king, 45 minutes had already passed. Shortly after, we made another stop at a café for a quick bite. We passed the YOU and ME CAFÉ and BREW BAR, located along Thetsaban Street, 200 meters from the Taksin Shrine.

Nearly a kilometer further on, we arrived at Suan Mamuang Market (which can be translated as the mango garden), located next to a temple of the same name and close to another market, Nampu Market. We passed Wat Khetnaboonyaram again before returning to Chanthaboon Waterfront and back to the footbridge crossing the river to the cathedral.

The loop was complete. However, we weren't stopping there yet, as I was keen to take a look at the royal temple, Wat Phai Lom. To do this, we added a little extra distance by walking through the community next to the cathedral and the river, encountering more street art and some beautiful examples of houses. In total, it made for a walk of about 5 km, and since the heat wasn't too intense, it was a leisurely stroll.

Map of the walking route