Chiang Mai: how to choose the right trek?

Among the many visitors to Thailand, those who decide to visit the north often choose to embark on a trek, in particular to meet the hill tribes. Whether in the mountainous region surrounding Chiang Mai, those of Mae Hong Son or even around Phrae, in the north of Thailand, experiences in the heart of nature attract. And while the majority will be satisfied with their experience, a minority will feel disappointed, due to several factors (e.g. due to the organization of the chosen local agency, or because of biased expectations).

Here are some tips that beginner trekkers should keep in mind while selecting a trek.

Why trek in Chiang Mai?

First of all, I want to clarify that if I focus on the Chiang Mai region, as stated in the title, it is because my personal experience to date is limited to this province. In addition, Chiang Mai remains a must-see destination in northern Thailand and for a first trip to the land of smiles, often being a first "big" trip at all (outside Europe), this stage is highly likely to be part of your stay. After the advice given also remains true elsewhere for the rest of the country.

The old town of Chiang Mai clearly visible in the middle with the mountains in the background.

The advantage of Chiang Mai, which is certainly the tourist heart of the north of the country and can therefore put off some people looking for more "authenticity" and calm, is to offer a wide range of choices in terms of possible experiences. Experienced in the exercise, many local agencies offer tours, most of which take place in the mountains of Mae Taeng, north of the city, or in Mae Wang and Doi Inthanon National Park in the south. The offer being large and the number of applicants sufficiently high, this results in prices that are mostly competitive.

What’s a trek in Thailand like?

You should know that trekking in Thailand is often closer to a "simple" hike than a trek as such. If we take the definition of the words, a trek is characterized as a "long hike", the difference from a classic hike is mainly distinguished by its longer duration. This notably involves crossing wilder or more difficult to access areas, such as a multi-day hike in the mountains punctuated by bivouacs. That is the Wikipedia definition.

But in Thailand, we often find ourselves with day trekking packages. And it is often the same "magic" formula, namely a small moment with elephants (in sanctuaries of the “no riding” movement), the famous hike was done along a path leading to a waterfall very often, then swimming break. In the afternoon, walk a little more and then possibly do some activity like bamboo rafting, understand, let yourself slide along a small river on a raft built of bamboo. There are sometimes formulas integrating real rafting, suitable for beginners.

The elephant moment.

Bamboo rafts passing by (before our tour).

While the order of these activities may vary, these day treks are more or less like this. The reason being that, for timing reasons in particular, not everyone necessarily has the time to devote two days to this type of practice. In addition, some are beginners in this field, this formula becomes like a “nice” initiation and generally requiring little physical effort. The feeling of doing something original on the other side of the world.

But if you're looking for a bigger challenge, you can try the two-day or longer options. This really falls into the "trekking" category, as you you will sleep in the middle of the mountain after a long day of walking. But here again, the formula is often repeated, namely a first day where you are taken to your starting point, sometimes going to see a waterfall accessible by car. Afterwards, it's the climb to the starting point, in a village in the middle of the mountains. The walk generally lasts less than 4 hours depending on the speed of the group and the stops/breaks. The night then takes place in a mountain tribe village and the next day, we enter the day trek formula, with elephant + bamboo rafting.

The 4x4 to reach the starting point of a trek.

Let's go for a few hours of walking!

The kind of landscape we encounter.

Our accommodation for the day.

I'll end this chapter by mentioning the fact that while many tours offer group walks, it's often possible to take a private tour for more privacy. This obviously means paying extra for this exclusivity. Going on a group trek isn't necessarily a bad thing, as it can be an opportunity to meet people, but I'll come back to that later.

So, what are the criteria for choosing your trek in Chiang Mai?

To choose the trek that suits you best, here are the criteria to take into account in order to select an experience that suits you.

1. Your expectations

The basics. With what I've already summarized above, it's up to you to see if this type of "adventure" appeals to you, if a rather simple trek mixing encounters and "classic" activities would suit you. Some of you might be at looking for a real challenge, in which case, there are real treks whose goal is often to reach the summit of a mountain, camp there and admire the sunrise the next day.

To do this, there are two options: either on your own or with an agency. By default, we often choose an agency because we simply don't know where to start or where to go. But if you're the resourceful type, it's important to clarify. that there are many treks to do alone, without accompaniment, and that he is therefore not forced to call on an outside organization. This is the case for example at Doi Mon Chong (also spelled Jong), known for its iconic rock reminiscent of a lion. Located in the south of the province of Chiang Mai, it is necessary for this trek, as is often the case in this type of case, to report to the authorities, because one does not generally leave like that in the middle of the forest (here, it is from the village of Ban Muser).

In the middle of the mountains.

For information on elevation and distance, you can, for example, visit the AllTrails website, which lists this type of trek (in the example of Doi Mon Chong, there is however a mistake because the hike is about 6 km and not 11 km as written on the site, but it can give you a basis, in particular on where to go).

If you prefer discover while being accompanied, you have the site Thailand Mountain Trail, which offers real treks on the iconic mountains of Doi suthep (adjacent to the city of Chiang Mai) and Chiang Dao. It is even possible to do a 5-day trek connecting these two mountains.

Generally speaking, the right question to ask is: why do you go trekking? Often, the idea behind it is to experience a special moment in the mountains and share an experience that's unusual compared to everyday life. This includes visiting ethnic villages and stepping out of your comfort zone. But if sleeping in isolated places, where hygiene seems far from our standards, puts you off, then opt for a day trek.

Meeting in an ethnic village (non-tourist).

A shared room during a two-day trek.

If you have in mind a trek like "Rendez-vous en terre inconnue", and expect an authentic experience in a remote village, the choice of operator can be crucial to avoid falling into the village too "commercial", because some walks are so calibrated and daily that the experience with the locals will necessarily be limited because too formatted.

2. Your physical condition

obviously, the choice of trek will depend above all on your physical abilities. If you are not usually a walker (logically, trekking would not appeal to you more than that), you will more easily opt for a short day trek. If, on the contrary, you are used to walks in natural surroundings, you will more readily opt for a long trek of two days minimum, allowing for better immersion.

The agencies will normally be able to notify the type of difficulty of the trek, so you should know where you are going. Don't rely solely on the duration, as the elevation gain can play a significant role in the fatigue caused. During my two-day trek, in the "classic" way (including a visit to a waterfall before the walk and an elephant + bamboo rafting activity the next day), the hike itself did not exceed 4 hours. And if overall everyone kept up the pace, it must be admitted that certain sections required a more intense effort due to the hill to climb.

The other important point being if you are with childrenMany day treks are less demanding and can be enjoyed by children, provided they are at least a good walker.

A day trek is generally accessible to children.

Rafting for beginners, a good way to have a side of adventure without risk.

A good pair of shoes is not too much if the walk is substantial, I am always half surprised and half amused to see tourists going on an adventure in flip-flops in the middle of the forest (yes, there are some). Don't overload yourself unnecessarily. Take the essentials in a light backpack and leave your main luggage at your hotel or at the agency reception if you go there on your own.

Trekking in Thailand does not generally involve porters, but there are treks that involve villagers willing to take on the "dirty" work. This is the case for the Doi Mon Chong trek that I mentioned just above, but I also encountered some on the trail leading to the summit of Ramkhamhaeng National Park, adjacent to the Sukhothai Historical Park.

Among the essentials, a good mosquito repellent, in the forest, you will not be spared. Rest assured, in these areas around Chiang Mai, there is no malaria, however, there can be other diseases linked to the bites of these insects (dengue, zika, chikungunya, although cases remain quite rare concerning the latter two). Bring sunscreen and a hat is not too much.

The jungle.

It's often forgotten, but in the cold season (mid-November to mid-February), it can get chilly in the evenings and at night. Bring warm clothes and make sure you have enough bedding (this is usually the case since you'll have blankets).

3. The trek and its activities

If we combine the two previous paragraphs, you should start to know what you would like to include as activities taking into account accessibility (easy/difficult) and their variety. You can go for a trek clearly more oriented towards landscapes, combined with a meeting of a tribe in the mountains, or a bit of a catch-all tour to multiply the experiences, elephant, walking, waterfall, bamboo or white rafting are the most common examples.

But being limited by time, we tend to want to do too much, see too much, don't let yourself be overwhelmed by temptation. Seeing five villages in one day is not necessarily interesting, because there will be a repetition effect. One or at most two tribes per day is more than enough. Instead, find out how much time you will spend in a village if you visit during the day. Will you have the opportunity to participate in village life, for example by trying a local craft (weaving), helping with work in the fields (planting or harvesting rice depending on the season or other plantation), or by talking with the villagers about their daily lives? If possible, find out which villages will you stay in? Which tribe(s) will you visit?

In an ethnic village.

Break at a waterfall during a day trek.

A kilometer on foot is tiring, tiring…

It comes back to the fact that you are looking for a "trek" after all, so there also needs to be a minimum of walking, but you will certainly not be up for being on your feet for ten hours a day. So ask yourself the right questions – how many hours of walking are there each day? Are there long breaks? At what pace will the trek be walked? What is the terrain like? Will you be passing mainly through rice paddies, the jungle, following trails or roads? How long does it take to get to where the trek begins? How will water and meals be managed? Since these are generally provided, can you make special and adapted requests (allergy, vegetarian).

4. The agency

We come to the important choice of the agency. As this is a classic activity from Chiang Mai, there is no shortage of agencies offering you wonders and other adventures. Many guesthouses will offer their own services. It should be noted that this is not because your guesthouse in Chiang Mai organizes a trek that they organize the trek themselves – this often means that they are selling you a place on a trek organized by a separate company for which they will possibly get a discount and more likely a commission (there is nothing wrong with that, by the way).

Generally, to ensure equal quality, it is best if the hotel manages the outings. This is always better to go to the source – ask if they organize the visits themselves and if they say no, try elsewhere (I'll give you some good addresses below) or if not, find out which agency they use, just to check their reputation.

Generally speaking, if you go and see for yourself, does the agency seem professional? Do the stock photos look recent? Can you see reviews from previous groups? On Trip Advisor? Are they run by a company or a family? Both can be good, but each has its pros and cons.

On a street in Chiang Mai.

Among the references of hotels offering their own activities:

• • le Swiss Lanna Lodge, a French-speaking family hotel that offers a variety of tours and treks up to 4 days with their guide, Loolu.

According to Google Mpas, the latter has unfortunately closed!

• le Spicy Villa Eco-Lodge, another hotel with a good reputation, with a location in the heart of nature.

Among the selection criteria : If you search online, does the website look professional and up-to-date? Does the information seem clear and comprehensive? When I was looking for a "classic" day out, I wanted an "intimate" setting and a mix of activities including elephant riding, walking, and bamboo rafting. I chose chiangmaijungletrekking.com, managed by Toto, behind the Toto Elephant Sanctuary, which has a very good reputation (4.9/5 rating on Google). The latter has just opened a hostel, the Toto Hostel in Chiang Mai, which should suit small budgets (less than 400 Bahts).

If you are looking for the day in question, it is no longer available from them (not as is), which for me is also a positive point, because it means that they do not rest on their laurels and vary their offers and places of discovery. So I had re-tested a new similar tour with them to see the difference (available here)

At Toto Elephant Sanctuary.

In addition, the latter, like some agencies, offer as a "bonus" the photos they take throughout the day, this is sometimes useful to recover memories of moments when you might not have a camera (when the activity involves water, for example, the photo of rafting).

Because I wanted to try a different agency and above all, change area (I'll talk about it below), I also tried more recently The Green Trails, which notably offer treks to Chiang Dao, 1 hour north of Chiang Mai. It was a fairly simple day trek with a walk overlooking the beautiful Chiang Dao mountain and a lunch break in an ethnic village. Simple, effective.

Finally, to complete, I also give you two other reputable agencies:

• Chiangmai Trekking with Piroon, which, with a rating of 5/5 on TripAdvisor, is clearly a reference.
• Pooh Eco-Trekking, which has already stood out for several years for its very nature-oriented approach and notably exploring more distant regions (towards Mae Sariang).

5. The guide

Another point that can play on experience is the guide. While some of the agencies listed below will always have the same ones, sometimes they are freelancers. So if you hear someone you know mentioning " I had a great stay with the guide Lek at X", there is no guarantee that you will get Lek in turn by going to X. In addition to the references given above, you can ask if possible to meet your guide the day before.

The guide plays an important role in the memories you bring back from this hike. Will the latter be professional and serious, willing to share information about the ethnic group hosting you, and also know how to make you smile and relax? Your guide should be able to provide you with the experience and knowledge you are looking for.

The guide for the two-day trek carving a bamboo cup.

With a local hunter (old-fashioned rifle!)

Some guides or hosts are known to offer quality treks and an enriching experience. This is the case of Tee Watertown (who you can contact on Facebook, in English), a young native of Chiang Mai who was destined for a life as a monk. After 7 years in the orders, he decided to explore life differently and got his first job as a guide for treks. He is a self-taught man who has also opened his own structure since 2016, previously called Karen Cultural Treks but since renamed in his own name, see his site: Tee Watertown.

6. The group

The last point to be prepared for all eventualities: group cohesion. Obviously, it's difficult, if not impossible, to predict who you'll end up with... But if you take a tour of your guesthouse, some can make it available to you. the list of participants if you ask for it. Gender, age, nationality are all normally indicated and will allow you to get an idea of ​​the people who will share your daily life, especially important if you are leaving (and therefore have to put up with them) for several days.

While private tours are generally more expensive, it's up to you whether you prefer to be intimate with your friends, family or alone as a couple, or whether you're open to discovering in a small group (usually 10-12 people) without necessarily speaking English.

It is in this section that I can mention the case of Pauline, which manages Karen Escape, because she is married to a man of the same ethnic group and lives in the village nestled in the mountains of Chiang Mai. It allows her to live 2 days of immersion in a Karen village, and if it does not have a defined program at the base, it is possible to integrate a walk in the jungle and therefore fits well into the "trekking" box, and in French, that can help.

She can only be contacted via Facebook page and only does private tours, so you will be alone as a couple or with your family and just you. However, it goes without saying that his calendar fills up quickly and it is better to book months in advance !

7. The location

This last point was added later, but it's still important! I only touched on this point above by mentioning that most treks in the Chiang Mai region are mainly concentrated around two areas: Mae Taeng and Mae Wang. Although they are close, these two areas offer quite different experiences, both in terms of physical effort and activities.

• Mae Taeng is aimed more at experienced hikers, looking for a real challenge in the middle of the jungle.
• Mae Wang, more accessible, combines short walks, relaxation in nature and cultural or fun activities such as bamboo rafting.

Mae Taeng vs Mae Wang, two different approaches

Treks usually mention the area covered by the day(s). If you see one of these two names, you know you're staying in the "classic" category, but here's what sets them apart in style:

Well, that's the summary, which deliberately exaggerates the lines to clearly distinguish between the two areas: Mae Taeng and Mae Wang are really two different styles of trekking.

To be more concrete, Mae Taeng is actually a bit more adventurous. Treks often include a passage through the beautiful Mork Fa waterfall, before heading into the mountains. The Mae Taeng River is more agitated, so you can go there “real” rafting — I put quotation marks around it to distinguish it from the bamboo rafting, which by definition uses bamboo rafts, unlike the inflatable rafts typical of sporting activity.

Mork Fa waterfall, visited during a two-day trek.

On Mae Wang's side, the atmosphere is generally more tranquil, like its river, ideal for sliding down on a bamboo raft. There are also many elephant sanctuaries, and the surrounding mountains have gentler slopes, making the area particularly suitable for families and young children.

Other possible areas

Doi suthep : this is the easy option since it is right next to Chiang Mai, practical if you want to avoid spending too much time in transport (the usual treks generally take a little more than an hour in the morning, and necessarily the same on the way back). It is the opportunity to combine with classic visits like Wat Phra That Doi Suthep or the Hmong villages (I will discuss in more detail the Visits to Doi Suthep are possible here).

Doi inthanon : another option, already a little rarer but offering quite a few possibilities. The mountain, which is part of the Doi Inthanon National Park, includes numerous waterfalls, ethnic villages (mostly Karen) and rice paddies. It is also in this part of the province that you have some of the most beautiful rice terraces, notably that of Ban Pa Pong Pieng, including the famous Tee Watertown mentioned above, which can take you there.

Chiang Dao : this is an option notably put forward by the Green Trails agency mentioned above. It is an interesting option because we then move away from the "highway" of treks because Mae Taeng and Mae Wang are classics, it goes without saying that, even by varying the villages visited, the inhabitants end up being very used to the repeated passage of tourists. Chiang Dao being clearly less privileged for treks, for lack of knowledge, it can allow for a more in-depth immersion.

Have a nice trek in Chiang Mai!

With all this information, you should have all the tools you need to find an interesting trek and allow yourself the best experience while staying in Chiang Mai. Please feel free to come back here to share. your good plans and memories, I will update if it is worth talking about it, then be an actor in the blog too !

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