Chiang Mai: how to choose the right trek?

Among the many visitors to Thailand, those who decide to visit the north often choose to embark on a trek, in particular to meet the hill tribes. Whether in the mountainous region surrounding Chiang Mai, those of Mae Hong Son or even around Phrae, in the north of Thailand, experiences in the heart of nature attract. And while the majority will be satisfied with their experience, a minority will feel disappointed, due to several factors (e.g. due to the organization of the chosen local agency, or because of biased expectations).

Here are some tips that beginner trekkers should keep in mind while selecting a trek.

Why trek in Chiang Mai?

First, I want to clarify that if I'm focusing on the Chiang Mai region, as stated in the title, it's because my personal experience to date is limited to this province. Furthermore, Chiang Mai remains a must-see destination in northern Thailand , and for a first trip to the Land of Smiles—often the first major trip of its kind (outside of Europe)—this stop is highly likely to be part of your itinerary. The advice given here also applies to the rest of the country.

Chiang Mai , while undeniably the tourist hub of northern Thailand and therefore a potential deterrent for those seeking more "authenticity" and tranquility, offers a wide range of experiences. Experienced in this area, numerous local agencies offer tours, most of which take place in the Mae Taeng mountains north of the city, or in Mae Wang and Doi Inthanon National Park to the south. With a significant number of options and a large demand, prices are generally competitive.

What’s a trek in Thailand like?

It's important to know that trekking in Thailand is often more like a "simple" hike than a true trek. If we look at the definitions, a trek is characterized as a "long hike," distinguished from a typical hike primarily by its longer duration. This often involves traversing wilder or more remote areas, such as a multi-day mountain trek with overnight camping. That's the Wikipedia definition.

However, in Thailand, you often find yourself with day trekking packages . And it's often the same "magic" formula: a short time with elephants (in sanctuaries within the "no riding" movement), the famous hike, usually along a trail leading to a waterfall , followed by a swimming break. In the afternoon, a bit more walking and then perhaps an activity like bamboo rafting , which involves floating down a small river on a bamboo raft. There are sometimes packages that include actual rafting, suitable for beginners.

While the order of these activities may vary, these day treks are generally structured this way. The reason is that, due to time constraints, not everyone has the time to dedicate two full days to this type of activity. Furthermore, for some, being beginners, this format becomes a pleasant introduction , usually requiring little physical effort. It offers the feeling of experiencing something unique on the other side of the world.

But if you're looking for a bigger challenge, you can try the two-day or longer packages. This is where you truly enter the "trekking" category, as you 'll sleep in the mountains after a long day of hiking. However, the format is often the same: the first day involves driving you to your starting point, sometimes stopping to see a waterfall accessible by car. Then comes the hike up to the starting point, a village nestled in the mountains. The walk usually takes less than four hours, depending on the group's pace and stops. You'll spend the night in a mountain village , and the following day, you'll embark on the day trek, which includes an elephant ride and bamboo rafting.

I'll end this chapter by mentioning the fact that while many tours offer group walks, it's often possible to take a private tour for more privacy. This obviously means paying extra for this exclusivity. Going on a group trek isn't necessarily a bad thing, as it can be an opportunity to meet people, but I'll come back to that later.

So, what are the criteria for choosing your trek in Chiang Mai?

To choose the trek that suits you best, here are the criteria to take into account in order to select an experience that suits you.

1. Your expectations

The basics. Based on what I've summarized above, it's up to you to decide if this type of "adventure" appeals to you, if a relatively simple trek combining encounters with "classic" activities would suit you. Some of you might be looking for a real challenge , in which case, there are true treks whose goal is often to reach a mountain summit, set up camp, and admire the sunrise the next day.

To do this, you have two options: go it alone or with an agency. By default, people often choose an agency simply because they don't know where to start or where to go. But if you're the resourceful type, it's important to know that there are many treks you can do on your own , without a guide, so you don't necessarily have to use an outside organization. This is the case, for example, at Doi Mon Chong (also spelled Jong), known for its iconic rock formation resembling a lion. Located in the south of Chiang Mai province, this trek, as is often the case, requires you to register with the authorities, as you don't usually just set off into the middle of the forest (in this case, the starting point is the village of Ban Muser).

For information on elevation gain and distance, you can, for example, use the AllTrails website, which lists this type of trek (in the example of Doi Mon Chong , there is however a mistake because the hike is about 6 km and not 11 km as written on the site, but it can give a basis, especially on where to go).

If you prefer to explore with a guide , the Thailand Mountain Trail website offers genuine treks on the iconic mountains of Doi Suthep (near Chiang Mai) and Chiang Dao. It's even possible to do a 5-day trek linking these two mountains.

Generally speaking, the right question to ask yourself is: why are you trekking? Often, the idea is to experience a special moment in the mountains and share an unusual experience with your everyday life. This often involves seeing ethnic villages and stepping outside your comfort zone. But if sleeping in isolated places where hygiene seems far from our standards puts you off, then opt for a daytime trek.

If you have in mind a trek like "Rendez-vous en terre inconnue", and expect an authentic experience in a remote village, the choice of operator can be crucial to avoid falling into the village too "commercial", because some walks are so calibrated and daily that the experience with the locals will necessarily be limited because too formatted.

2. Your physical condition

Obviously, the choice of trek will depend primarily on your physical abilities. If you're not usually a keen walker (logically, trekking wouldn't appeal to you much), you'll more easily opt for a short day trek . If, on the other hand, you're used to walks in nature, you'll likely prefer a longer trek of at least two days , allowing for a more immersive experience.

The agencies will normally be able to indicate the difficulty level of the trek, so you should know what to expect. Don't rely solely on the duration, as the elevation gain can significantly impact the fatigue. During my two-day trek , the "classic" route (including a visit to a waterfall before the hike and an elephant and bamboo rafting activity the following day), the hike itself didn't exceed four hours. And while everyone generally kept up well, it must be said that some sections required more strenuous effort due to the steep climbs.

The other important point is whether you are with children . Many day treks are less demanding, allowing children to enjoy themselves, provided they are reasonably fit walkers.

A good pair of shoes is not too much if the walk is substantial, I am always half surprised and half amused to see tourists going on an adventure in flip-flops in the middle of the forest (yes, there are some). Don't overload yourself unnecessarily. Take the essentials in a light backpack and leave your main luggage at your hotel or at the agency reception if you go there on your own.

Trekking in Thailand generally doesn't involve porters, but there are treks that involve villagers willing to take on the "dirty" work. This is the case for the Doi Mon Chong trek I mentioned earlier, but I also encountered them on the trail leading to the summit of Ramkhamhaeng National Park , adjacent to Sukhothai Historical Park.

Among the essentials, a good mosquito repellent, in the forest, you will not be spared. Rest assured, in these areas around Chiang Mai, there is no malaria, however, there can be other diseases linked to the bites of these insects (dengue, zika, chikungunya, although cases remain quite rare concerning the latter two). Bring sunscreen and a hat is not too much.

It's often forgotten, but in the cold season (mid-November to mid-February), it can get chilly in the evenings and at night. Bring warm clothes and make sure you have enough bedding (this is usually the case since you'll have blankets).

3. The trek and its activities

If we combine the two previous paragraphs, you should start to know what you would like to include as activities taking into account accessibility (easy/difficult) and their variety. You can go for a trek clearly more oriented towards landscapes, combined with a meeting of a tribe in the mountains, or a bit of a catch-all tour to multiply the experiences, elephant, walking, waterfall, bamboo or white rafting are the most common examples.

But when time is limited, it's easy to want to do too much, see too much , so don't give in to temptation. Seeing five villages in one day isn't necessarily worthwhile, as it will become repetitive. One or at most two tribes per day is more than enough. Instead, consider how much time you'll spend in each village if you're visiting during the day. Will you have the opportunity to participate in village life, for example, by trying a local craft (weaving), helping with fieldwork (planting or harvesting rice depending on the season, or other crops), or talking with the villagers about their daily lives? If possible, find out which villages you'll be staying in. Which tribe(s) will you be visiting?

It comes back to the fact that you are looking for a "trek" after all, so there also needs to be a minimum of walking, but you will certainly not be up for being on your feet for ten hours a day. So ask yourself the right questions – how many hours of walking are there each day? Are there long breaks? At what pace will the trek be walked? What is the terrain like? Will you be passing mainly through rice paddies, the jungle, following trails or roads? How long does it take to get to where the trek begins? How will water and meals be managed? Since these are generally provided, can you make special and adapted requests (allergy, vegetarian).

4. The agency

This brings us to the important choice of agency . Since trekking is a common activity in Chiang Mai, there's no shortage of agencies offering you incredible experiences and adventures. Many guesthouses will also offer their own services. It's worth noting that just because your guesthouse in Chiang Mai organizes a trek doesn't mean they organize the trek themselves – it often means they're selling you a spot on a trek organized by a separate company, for which they might receive a discount and more likely a commission (there's nothing wrong with that, really).

Generally, to ensure consistent quality, it's best if the hotel handles the excursions. It's always preferable to go directly to the source – ask if they organize the tours themselves, and if they say no, try elsewhere (I'll give you some good suggestions below). Alternatively, find out which agency they use to check their reputation.

Generally speaking, if you go and see for yourself, does the agency seem professional? Do the stock photos look recent? Can you see reviews from previous groups? On Trip Advisor? Are they run by a company or a family? Both can be good, but each has its pros and cons.

Among the references of hotels offering their own activities:

• le Swiss Lanna Lodge, a French-speaking family hotel that offers a variety of tours and treks up to 4 days with their guide, Loolu.

According to Google Mpas, the latter has unfortunately closed!

• le Spicy Villa Eco-Lodge, another hotel with a good reputation, with a location in the heart of nature.

Among the selection criteria : if you search online, does the website look professional and up-to-date? Does the information seem clear and comprehensive? When I was looking for a "classic" day trip, I wanted an "intimate" setting and a mix of activities including elephant trekking, hiking, and bamboo rafting. I chose chiangmaijungletrekking.com , run by Toto, the man behind the Toto Elephant Sanctuary, which has a very good reputation (4.9/5 rating on Google). He has also just opened a hostel, the Toto Hostel in Chiang Mai, which should be suitable for those on a budget (less than 400 Baht).

If you're looking for that particular day trip, it's no longer available on their site (not in that exact same form), which I see as a positive, as it means they're not resting on their laurels and are diversifying their offerings and locations. So I tried a similar tour with them again to see the difference ( available here ).

In addition, the latter, like some agencies, offer as a "bonus" the photos they take throughout the day, this is sometimes useful to recover memories of moments when you might not have a camera (when the activity involves water, for example, the photo of rafting).

Because I wanted to try a different agency and, above all, a different area (more on that later), I also recently tried The Green Trails , which offers treks in Chiang Dao, an hour north of Chiang Mai. It was a fairly easy day trek with a walk offering views of the beautiful Chiang Dao mountain and a lunch break in an ethnic village. Simple and effective.

Finally, to complete, I also give you two other reputable agencies:

• Chiangmai Trekking with Piroon, which, with a rating of 5/5 on TripAdvisor, is clearly a reference.
• Pooh Eco-Trekking, which has already stood out for several years for its very nature-oriented approach and notably exploring more distant regions (towards Mae Sariang).

5. The guide

Another factor that can influence the experience is the guide. While some of the agencies mentioned below will always have the same guide, sometimes they are freelancers. So, if you hear someone say, " I had a great stay with guide Lek at X ," there's no guarantee you'll actually have Lek when you go to X. In addition to the recommendations above, you can ask to meet your guide the day before, if possible.

The guide plays a crucial role in the memories you'll take home from this hike. Will they be professional and knowledgeable, willing to share information about the local community, and able to make you smile and relax? Your guide should be able to provide the experience and expertise you're looking for.

Some guides and hosts are renowned for offering high-quality treks and enriching experiences . This is the case with Tee Watertown (whom you can contact on Facebook, in English), a young man from Chiang Mai who initially intended to become a monk. After seven years in the order, he decided to explore life differently and landed his first job as a trekking guide. A self-taught individual, he has run his own business since 2016, formerly called Karen Cultural Treks but now renamed after himself. See his website: Tee Watertown.

6. The group

One last point to be prepared for all eventualities: group cohesion. Obviously, it's difficult, if not impossible, to predict who you'll end up with… But if you take a tour of your guesthouse, some will provide you with a list of participants upon request. Gender, age, and nationality are usually included, giving you an idea of ​​the people who will be sharing your trip, which is especially important if you're going away (and therefore have to put up with them) for several days.

While private tours are generally more expensive, it's up to you whether you prefer to be intimate with your friends, family or alone as a couple, or whether you're open to discovering in a small group (usually 10-12 people) without necessarily speaking English.

It is in this section that I can mention Pauline , who runs Évasion Karen , as she is married to a man of the same ethnic group and lives in a village nestled in the mountains of Chiang Mai. She offers a two-day immersion experience in a Karen village , and while she doesn't have a set program, it's possible to incorporate a jungle trek, thus fitting perfectly into the "trekking" category, and speaking French can be helpful.

She can only be contacted through her Facebook page and only offers private tours, so you'll be alone, as a couple, or with your family, and it will be just you. However, it goes without saying that her schedule fills up quickly, so it's best to book months in advance!

7. The location

This last point was added later, but it's still important! I only touched on this point above by mentioning that most treks in the Chiang Mai region are mainly concentrated around two areas: Mae Taeng and Mae Wang. Although they are close, these two areas offer quite different experiences, both in terms of physical effort and activities.

• Mae Taeng is aimed more at experienced hikers, looking for a real challenge in the middle of the jungle.
• Mae Wang, more accessible, combines short walks, relaxation in nature and cultural or fun activities such as bamboo rafting.

Mae Taeng vs Mae Wang, two different approaches

Treks usually mention the area covered by the day(s). If you see one of these two names, you know you're staying in the "classic" category, but here's what sets them apart in style:

Well, that's the summary, which deliberately exaggerates the lines to clearly distinguish between the two areas: Mae Taeng and Mae Wang are really two different styles of trekking.

To be more specific, Mae Taeng is indeed a bit more adventurous. Treks often include a visit to the beautiful Mork Fa waterfall before heading into the mountains. Since the Mae Taeng River is more turbulent, you can do "real" rafting there —I put that in quotes to distinguish it from bamboo rafting , which by definition uses bamboo rafts, unlike the inflatable rafts typical of the sport.

In Mae Wang , the atmosphere is generally more tranquil, much like its river, which is ideal for floating down a bamboo raft. There are also numerous elephant sanctuaries, and the surrounding mountains have gentler slopes, making the area particularly suitable for families and young children.

Other possible areas

Doi Suthep : this is the easy option since it's right next to Chiang Mai, convenient if you want to avoid spending too much time traveling (typical treks usually take a little over an hour in the morning, and the same on the return). It's a good opportunity to combine it with classic sights like Wat Phra That Doi Suthep or Hmong villages (I discuss possible visits to Doi Suthep in more detail here ).

Doi Inthanon : another option, a bit less common but offering plenty of possibilities. The mountain, part of Doi Inthanon National Park , includes numerous waterfalls, ethnic villages (mostly Karen), and rice paddies. It's also in this part of the province that you'll find some of the most beautiful terraced rice fields, notably Ban Pa Pong Pieng , from which the famous Tee Watertown mentioned earlier can take you.

Chiang Dao : This is an option particularly highlighted by the Green Trails agency mentioned earlier. It's an interesting option because it takes you off the beaten path of trekking. Mae Taeng and Mae Wang are classic treks, and it goes without saying that, even when visiting different villages, the locals eventually become very accustomed to the repeated passage of tourists. Chiang Dao is significantly less popular for trekking, and due to a lack of familiarity with the area, this option offers a more immersive experience.

Have a nice trek in Chiang Mai!

With all this information, you should have everything you need to find an interesting trek and make the most of your experience while staying in Chiang Mai. Feel free to come back here and share your tips and memories; I'll update the blog if it's worth mentioning, so be a part of the community!