If you are going to Chiang Mai province, here is a suggestion of a place to visit, Chiang Dao district. The latter covers the northern part of Chiang Mai province and borders Burma. It is a still relatively unexplored area where you can go trekking, explore ethnic villages, waterfalls and climb one of the highest peaks in Thailand, Chiang Dao mountain exceeding 2 meters.
Here's a sampling of what awaits you in this pretty corner of northern Thailand.
Chiang Dao Cave
Located at the foot of the mountain in Chiang Dao National Park, the cave is one of the district's top attractions. You are greeted by outdoor pools filled with massive fish.
If you want to explore the cave as a whole, I would say that you should allow a good 1h30. It is made up of several galleries, a main one that goes straight down after the stairs of the covered entrance. This part is lit and costs 40 Baht, you will find statues of different sizes and positions (as is often the case in Thailand), but also interesting shapes in the walls, not to mention the classic stalactites and stalagmites.
If you want to explore the other galleries, it is mandatory to call one of the guides present after the part to pray, where there is a crossroads. For 100 Baht, a lady with an oil lamp will take you along its unlit corridors for several hundred meters (there is a gallery of 700m and another of 400m, hence the visit time which can be long)
For my part, I was more short of time than money (it's only 100 baht after all) and I came out of the cave after a good half hour (especially since my camera battery was dead... And I had left my extra battery in the car...)
It was only postponed since I was able not only to come back but also to do the full tour with a guide and her oil lamp. And I didn't expect it to be so narrow! You still have to go through some really narrow passages, you can barely fit through them! But it was fun, I recommend it if you have the time and like this kind of experience (if you are claustrophobic, forget it... I imagine that a cave is not really your thing...)
Wat tham pha plong
Marked Tham Pha Plong Priest's Camp Site on Google Maps, this temple is a little gem of tranquility. Nestled at the foot of the mountain, a few steps will lead you to what serves as a meditation center (for women I think).
Along these steps, the route is decorated with signs reminding you of the philosophical ideas specific to Buddhism. The whole is surrounded by a forest. We came across very few tourists there. It is located after the cave on a road branching off to the left, while going straight you will climb towards the mountain (see Google Maps).
This is definitely a place worth checking out. Relaxing and beautiful.
Chiang Dao National Park
The other main attraction, which doesn't go unnoticed since it's visible in the distance from the road, is the mountain of Chiang Dao National Park. Its summit is easily recognizable since it has a unique shape, and I was determined to take a closer look. The road leading there, even though the section in question is short, is beautiful, with a curve winding between large, century-old trees.
While doing my scouting, I saw that there was a small guesthouse installed on the hillside, in a village of the Lisu ethnic group, GH which has a terrace with a view of the mountain and a small café, that was all I needed to come there!
Access to the village in question is via a small mountain road that I found particularly pleasant (except that it was not a very wide road). If in my case, I did not have time (once again…), know that it is also possible to do a trek to reach the summit, the third highest in Thailand at 2m.
To do this, the start is somewhere from a bend, you will see a sign in Thai indicating a number, 6, in this case, these are meters. So count according to your walking habit, between 500 and 3 hours to cover the 4 kilometers to the camp, where you can also spend the night.
When I arrived at the village, I parked next to a few other cars, most of them guests of the guesthouse. The village itself is small, most offer homestays to sleep in huts or pitch your tent.
In the background the mountain of Chiang Dao is beautiful, imposing and the afternoon light only embellishes the picture.
Few foreigners come up here. However, as I was starting my first steps up there by going to explore the village a little, I came across another "farang" (meaning foreigner). From the English accent, I thought to myself that he seemed to be originally French, I was not far since he was a Belgian, who was traveling by motorbike (also living in Thailand).
I didn't congratulate him for not wearing a helmet (yes, I know, he does what he wants...), but we had a quick chat before setting off on our routes, he leaving again, because night was going to fall in less than an hour, me heading towards the café terrace, precisely to see the sunset.
On one of the walls I noticed a photo showing a 4x4 going up a very muddy road, the road I had just taken, only 20 years ago…
For the record, there are no electrical outlets in the rooms, which are bamboo huts, so the guests all put their chargers on the only accessible power strip next to the café.
The evening light beautifully illuminated the mountain in front, and the atmosphere that reigned over the place made it difficult for me to want to leave. It was just before dark that I decided to leave, to avoid the descent in complete darkness, even if the journey is not that long since between the village and the foot of the mountain there are only 14 km.
Trek to a waterfall
Following the advice of our host, I went to the neighboring village to do a little trek to see a waterfall. If I found the village without problems, it was not the same for the waterfall…
No signs, nothing. The village is quite quiet and I feel helpless and am already getting ready to leave when some villagers show up and offer to take us there. Phew…
We are told about a 1km walk. I think, comfortable. Yeah… not that much though.
We set off along the hillside, first skirting cultivated fields and then heading into the forest. The first part is, in fact, quite easy. We more or less follow a path. And from the moment we come across a small stream, we have to get our feet wet, and that's just the beginning...
Afterwards, you have to climb, walk in water, walk balancing on pipes, climb a small wooden ladder without falling into the pool below, on the hillside, it's the rainy season so it's humid too (it was in August) and finally, we were there.
Well, without saying that it was really hard (you just had to be careful, and we were accompanied by 2 people), I find that the waterfall is still a little disappointing given the effort involved. To do if you like adventure.
The way back is easier, because we know what to expect... Once back at the "parking lot" (it's better to have a 4x4 already to get there), I gave a tip to the 2 guides.
In the vicinity of Chiang Dao
In addition to the cave and access to the mountain villages, the surroundings of Chiang Dao also have their charm! The most famous attraction in the area are the famous “sticky waterfalls”, often indicated by local agencies by their English name “Sticky Waterfall”.
I talk about it in a separate article (read it here): these are waterfalls in the middle of nature, appreciated by all generations for the freshness they offer and for their originality - you can go up the waterfall on foot thanks to the limestone rocks whose properties make it not slippery, but indeed “sticky”.
There are also beautiful rice paddy landscapes to get there, especially by taking the secondary roads. You can also visit a beautiful temple, Wat Ban Den.
Practical advice
Where to sleep in Chiang Dao
We can consider that there are 2 main spots. One at the top of the mountain, and the other at the foot of the mountain. I tested both for my part.
At the bottom, classic choices, there are quite a few nice hotels/guesthouses, especially near the cave, before the road leading to the top of the mountain.
I had to get tested on At Home Chiang Dao Resort. What can I say except that it was great, a real little haven of peace.
My bungalow was located in the middle of a beautiful garden from where you can see the mountain well. The bungalow itself is really cute, clean and super comfortable. The owners, a couple whose husband is foreign, are welcoming. Little bonus, they serve a good organic breakfast.
Upstairs, there are several bungalows, most of them basic, with bamboo huts and each one with its own little terrace. Their number had exploded after my first visit, but this has since been regulated after the authorities had those who had built illegally razed, seeing the potential windfall with the arrival of more Thais enjoying the cool air and the landscape.
So I don't know if the one tested is still there, but you have the map at the bottom of the article to see the location of the village with the accommodations at the top of the mountain.
How to get to Chiang Dao
I won't hide from you that the simplest in my eyes, but above all the most practical, remains to rent a scooter from Chiang Mai.
Rental usually costs less than 300 baht per day and you have the freedom.
It is possible, if you prefer to avoid long distances with this means of transport, to reach Chiang Dao by bus from Chiang Mai, from (Chang Puak bus station), the bus (orange) will normally cost less than 50 baht for a 2 hour journey.
But from Chiang Dao city, a scooter will cost you more because it is normally available between 300 and 400 baht per day. But it is still worth it, for comparison, a taxi ride from your guesthouse to the cave for example is charged 300 baht return.
It is of course possible to get there from other destinations, mainly from Fang, further north, or from Bangkok, some buses making connections such as Bangkok Thaton can stop there on the way.
Chiang Dao mountain on a map
In summary, here is a map of the places mentioned in this article, to help you find your way around this region.
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