The unknown side of Phuket

Phuket, Southern Provinces, Travel to Thailand

When you think of Phuket Island, Thailand's largest island located on the Andaman coast, you usually think of beaches and coconut trees. Phuket came under the spotlight after suffering the 2004 tsunami.

Summary hide

Phuket town

The Mokens, the “Gypsies” of the sea

East cost

The island has since more than raised its head and has today become a destination of choice for the many tourists who flock to Thailand each year.

But while most will be content to pamper themselves on the beaches of Kuta, Karon, or the most famous, the sultry Patong, few really explore the island, apart from the unmissable southern cape of the island (Prom Thep Cape) and its magnificent sunsets.

I was going to write a more "classic" title like " 3 reasons to visit Phuket differently " especially because of those who ignore this island, thinking it is already too overwhelmed by mass tourism.

But I wanted to get away from the "conventions" of blogging and simply talk about a side of Phuket that is often ignored but which deserves as much attention as the beaches, because visiting this island should not be limited to just lounging on the beaches, I'm thinking of those returning from Patong and saying "oh, I didn't like Phuket" when they get back, but Patong is NOT Phuket! At least that is in no way a representation of what the island has to offer in its entirety.

Phuket town

During the 19th century, the discovery of tin brought a large number of Chinese and Malay traders to exploit the mines. The city developed with the creation of many beautiful houses and businesses that are still well preserved. The typical architectural style of the region is described as Sino-Portuguese, for my part, I assimilate this style to that which can be found on the island of Penang in Malaysia.

The shop fronts extend to the 2nd floor, but the ground floor is left free and the upper floor serves as a roof for the sidewalk. Many shops have old wooden doors with carvings. The visit can be done on foot in old Phuket.

I am living proof that the main city of the island is generally ignored, I have never visited it myself… [something I have since done but it took until 2019! I invite you to read my article on the old town of Phuket]

The Mokens, the “Gypsies” of the sea

In English the "sea gypsies" and in Thai the Chao Le (literally, the people of the sea), these fishermen were originally nomads and many do not know it, they were the first inhabitants of the island. By nomad in fact, they used to settle in a bay and fish until they felt that the resources were dwindling, then they left for another bay, this in order to give nature time to recover.

Today, of the 3 existing ethnic groups (the Moken, the Moklen and the Urak Lawoi), only the Moken have remained nomadic, the other 2 having settled "permanently". The quotation mark prevails for the danger in the face of the race for development and various real estate projects, it could well be that in the long term these will disappear...

For the moment, There are 3 remaining villages of “sea gypsies”, one in Rawai, possibly the most visited since it is on the road to Prom Thep Cape. Another one north of Phuket Town on Saphan Bay and the last one on the island of Ko Sirey (marked Ko Sire on Google Maps), a small piece of land (more of a peninsula than a real island) east of Phuket Town.

Mainly of animist religion, they have their own festival, the Loy Ruea festival (see pictures here), which takes place twice a year and consists of sending small boats into the sea with gifts in order to please the ghosts of the sea and the souls of the dead, thus allowing the sea gypsies to live in peace and happiness.

Making small wooden boats.

East cost

Yes yes, basically the entire east coast has no beaches, so everyone (or almost) simply ignores it. And yet, this coast offers a beautiful view of Phang Nga Bay and its many islands, there are plenty of fishing villages and the mangroves that line this coast in the absence of sand, are the habitat of many birds and other animals including monkeys.

This is enough reason for me to take a little interest in this other half of the island. Here for example above are some photos taken on the way to Kung Bay (the shrimp bay), I can't locate it exactly but this bay is somewhere in the middle of the island (in relation to the length), it is indicated on the road by the famous blue signs relating to tourist attractions.

All of these tours are easier if you rent a scooter (usually 300 Baht per day). But I want to urge caution and read (or re-read!) my article about driving in Thailand is not too much 😉

So, Phuket, are you interested?

Île Sea and beaches Village

Roman

17/07/2014

Comments:

Thailand
17/07/2014
Very interesting this article, Romain! Indeed the whole east coast, I did not know and it makes you want to go there.
Laurent
17/07/2014
Well seen Romain, I am clearly one of those who would have said to themselves “Phuket, never”. As the ignorant person that I am, I went to Google Maps to see what the island looks like and I imagined something much smaller to be honest. I think I will set foot in the north the day I go to Thailand, but it's still good to know. Is it possible to stay in the less touristy part of Phuket?
Sea gypsies are also found in the Togian Islands in Sulawesi, but I only caught a glimpse of them briefly while sailing past the stilt villages. I regretted afterwards not trying to go there actually.
Roman
17/07/2014
Thank you, nobody actually knows it, as I am very curious I decided to take a look, just for a change, I was not disappointed.
Roman
17/07/2014
Hi Laurent,
It is possible to find accommodation almost everywhere in Phuket, so yes, outside the tourist areas (even just in Phuket Town)
Ah ah, long live Google Maps! It's a big island, that's why the argument of "there are too many people" is not valid because those who say that are all going to the same place when there are so many others...
I'm looking forward to your visit to my place one of these days!
Julien
19/07/2014
Laurent, we tried to meet the nomads of the pond on the Togian Islands, we went as far as Kabalutan, a big "city" on stilts. The welcome was very nice but there are no nomads left. They have all settled down. They still go to sea for more or less long periods but now leave their wives and children at home. A whole culture that is disappearing... He would like to try nomads again in the Moluccas Islands, we will go and see one of these days. The photos will soon be on my site...
Philippe
27/08/2014
Hello,
PHEW, it's nice to read someone who doesn't systematically trash this island of Phuket... It's true that it's full of nice places often ignored by 95% of tourists... In any case, I'm happy here...
Good site, I will visit it a little more often.
Philippe
Roman
27/08/2014
Hi Philippe!
And yes, thank you! That's kind of the goal of my blog, to show what others don't see and yes, Phuket is not just Patong and fortunately so! It's the same observation throughout Thailand where there are lots of little-known places!
Rachel @ Travel with Discovery World
02/12/2014
Ahh yeah, nothing to do with what I know about Phuket. So much more my kind of place. Your blog should have existed back then Romain hehe. But at least I can refer people who go to Thailand properly now instead of telling them to avoid Phuket. Those little Sea Gypsy villages and the beautiful mangroves are worth going to :) You're reconciling me with the island hehe.
Roman
02/12/2014
Hehe, imagine that the blog already existed! But at the time I was just starting out, I had just arrived to live in Thailand, I ended up taming the place and the technique 😉
Céline
01/03/2016
Thanks for this blog Romain! Very complete, interesting and reassuring! I'm flying to Thailand for the first time on Thursday and will stay 15 days in Phuket. And I admit that the overly touristy side scared me a little, but suddenly, I took note of your advice and will go and see it more closely 🙂
Roman
01/03/2016
Thanks for your comment! On the other hand, choosing Phuket while being "afraid" of the tourist side, I tell myself that there may also be better destinations (I already find it a shame to only stay in Phuket, even if I dare to hope that you will move around a little)
SarahGabrielle
04/08/2016
Hello,
Speaking of going to see around Phuket, what islands do you recommend around? I'm going there for 15 days in October/November and I was planning on being outside of Phuket to find very preserved landscapes.
please
Roman
06/08/2016
Hello,
I am thinking in particular of the islands of Kho Yao Yai and Koh Yao Noi, they are quieter than most of the small, popular islands in the area (like Koh Phi Phi and Co.)
Laurence
11/11/2016
Hello Romain,
I'm leaving in March to do a 4-month internship in Thailand at a French school. I have 3 choices of cities/islands: Phuket, Ko Samui and Bangkok. I'm more torn between Phuket and Ko Samui.
I have several needs depending on where I would live: to experience a feeling of change of scenery, a minimal cost of living, to be able to easily travel on weekends in your city or islands, to have easy access to nature, to live in a lively city or village and to have access to a wide choice of cultural activities (temples, museums and arts).
Thank you for your answer !
Your site is beautiful by the way 🙂
Roman
11/11/2016
Hello Laurence
I changed the first name after your hello because mine is Romain and not Philippe…
Based on your criteria, I think Phuket should suit you better.
SEGRETAIN
17/11/2016
Hello Romain,
My partner and I have been going to Asia for 4 years, including 2 times to Thailand. The first time to Bankrut, a village that is not at all touristy and which gave us love at first sight for this country. The second time to Chiang Mai, different and just as magnificent. We want to go to the south and "especially not Phuket!!!!". When I saw your blog, I changed my mind: can you advise me for a 15-day stay knowing that I am making my reservations from France and that we are wandering around on a scooter all day. Thank you for any advice you can give me.
Congratulations on your site.
Laurence (another one!)
Roman
17/11/2016
Hello,
There are quite a few possibilities in the Phuket region, I am thinking in particular of Phang Nga Bay, Khao Sok National Park, and the quieter islands of Koh Yao Yai and Koh Yao Noi.
If you have 2 weeks, you can perhaps take the time to go down south for 2 or 3 days, stopping along the way at Phetchaburi for example, the Sam Roi Yot national park further down, possibly another stop at Prachuap Khiri Khan and Ao Manao Bay (not too far from Ban Krut in fact)
[email protected]
02/03/2017
Hello Romain,
We are leaving in 10 days for 2 weeks in Thailand. Our first week is complete (Ayutthaya, Chiang Mai), we then want to go down to Phuket for 1 days and finish with Bangkok for 4 days.
We want to take a cool break in Phuket while visiting some must-see places.
What visits do you recommend (Phang Nga? Similan Islands?)
For accommodation, where?
Thank you
Roman
02/03/2017
Hello,
If you have the possibility, go to the Similan Islands indeed, it is very beautiful. Phan Nga Bay and Koh Phi Phi are 2 other options, after 4 days it is quite short so if you move every day, it can be tiring anyway. For accommodation, you have for example Kata Noi beach is a nice one, otherwise Surin beach further north of the island, Rawai is quite popular too if the beauty of the beach is not your priority.
Rhimbault
02/03/2017
Thanks Romain, I'll take a closer look at this!
And for Bangkok? In the end we will probably only be there for 2 days… too little but the holidays are not extendable…
What should we prioritize?
Thank you
Roman
03/03/2017
Hello,
For Bangkok, it is best to focus on the old town, so towards the Bang Lamphu district, look in streets like Phra Athit, Samsen Soi 2 or 4 or Soi Rambuttri.
nadia
13/12/2018
Hello Romain
We will arrive in Phuket on December 27 with my family (2 children aged 3 and 9)
we don't know where to stay
I would like to avoid the common places Patong Karon etc etc I want more calm and nature
while staying in a superb location
What do you advise us?
please
Nadia
Roman
13/12/2018
Hello,
The quieter beaches are in the north of the island. You can stay on the Naithon Beach side for example or possibly the beach of the Sirinat National Park, just south of the airport.
blaizac
15/01/2020
Hello Romain
A good discovery at the beginning of this year, your blog. So many thanks to you
We are leaving (2 couples) for Thailand in 15 days.
The defined program is 4 nights in Bangkok then 3 nights in Chang Mai before a plane transfer to Phuket to reach Kao Lak where we will do an Argentine tango course for a week.
I still have to organize the remaining 5 days (from 15/02 to 19/02) knowing that we are leaving on the 19th late afternoon from Phuket to Paris via Bangkok
For Bangkok, your article confirmed my choices for visits and gave me a lot of details. Really cool. Thanks
For Chang Mai, we were thinking of going to see Wat Doi Suthep, the old town of course and maybe an encounter with elephants. I saw that there are centers that respect these animals, do you have any advice for the choice? Elephant Nature Park? or other. Maybe other more judicious ideas?
During our tango workshop, we will have the opportunity to go on a few trips during the day. Do you have any advice?
For the last 5 days, we would like a cool and quiet place with nature, beach, possible small visits., I have difficulty evaluating the distances. I saw Kho Yao Yai, Kho Ta, Kho Phra Tong.
It would be a good place to settle down and radiate it not too far.
This is our first discovery of Thailand, even if we had wanted to come for a long time.
Sorry for all these questions. Anyway, I find your blog really interesting.
Goods.
Christine
Roman
17/01/2020
Hello,
It's original to do an Argentine tango course in Thailand 😉
I just came back recently, indeed the Elephant Nature Park is a safe bet. But it is better to choose one of their programs called "Saddle Off" rather than a day at the park itself, it is more intimate and there is a choice of intermediate activities in addition to seeing the elephants (for example, the Majestic Project day allows you to do Rafting, others will make you take a quiet ride on a bamboo raft, etc.)
If you are staying in Khao Lak first, head to Ko Phra Thong (I talk about it here on the blog: https://thailande-et-asie.com/ko-phra-thong-ile-paysage-unique/) seems a good option to avoid having to travel long distances.
However 5 days would probably be too much, so you can consider a trip to Khao Sok National Park and its beautiful lake to complete it. Otherwise Ko Yao Yai (or its neighbor Ko Yao Noi) is also a good choice.
Maryse
02/09/2022
Bonjour.
I'm coming to Phuket in January 2023. I'm thinking of staying in the south because I've already done the northern part towards Khao Lak and ko Sok.
Who can advise me on which areas to stay in so that there is a bit of life but it is quiet for sleeping.
. I would like to rent a bungalow on a beach. With swimming pool if possible and breakfast included. Maximum budget 80€ per night.
I'm also thinking of going to Ko Yao Yai for a few days.
Any ideas? . Thanks. Maryse
Roman
03/09/2022
Hello,
The only hotel I know of that meets your criteria is the Friendship Resort, located on the south coast, but it is not the best beach because it is not suitable for swimming. Otherwise, you have to understand that Phuket is clearly not a destination to find bungalows on the beach, the latter being generally separated from the hotels by a road, and those that are not, will only have large hotel complexes or classic resorts directly on the shore (without bungalows and if with, out of your budget).
Ko Yao Yai on the other hand is wilder and ultimately has quite few beaches, so quite few options in terms of beach bungalows. Most are on the north-east coast, like the Thiwson Beach Resort.
Maryse PEREGO
03/09/2022
Thank you very much for your reply. I think we will settle down for 3 weeks in the same place and have a ball
stick to day to day.

The unknown side of Phuket

Phuket town

The Mokens, the “Gypsies” of the sea

East cost

previous article

next article

Romain B.

Comments:

Thailand

Laurent

Roman

Roman

Julien

Philippe

Roman

Rachel @ Travel with Discovery World

Roman

Céline

Roman

SarahGabrielle

Roman

Laurence

Roman

SEGRETAIN

Roman

[email protected]

Roman

Rhimbault

Roman

nadia

Roman

blaizac

Roman

Maryse

Roman

Maryse PEREGO

post a comment

The unknown side of Phuket

Phuket town

The Mokens, the “Gypsies” of the sea

East cost

previous article

next article

Similar items

Comments:

Céline

SarahGabrielle

Laurence

SEGRETAIN

Rhimbault

nadia

blaizac

Maryse

Maryse PEREGO

post a comment