The unknown side of Phuket

When you think of Phuket Island, Thailand's largest island located on the Andaman coast, you usually think of beaches and coconut trees. Phuket came under the spotlight after suffering the 2004 tsunami.

The island has since more than raised its head and has today become a destination of choice for the many tourists who flock to Thailand each year.

But while most will be content to pamper themselves on the beaches of Kuta, Karon, or the most famous, the sultry Patong, few really explore the island, apart from the unmissable southern cape of the island (Prom Thep Cape) and its magnificent sunsets.

I was going to write a more "classic" title like " 3 reasons to visit Phuket differently " especially because of those who ignore this island, thinking it is already too overwhelmed by mass tourism.

But I wanted to get away from the "conventions" of blogging and simply talk about a side of Phuket that is often ignored but which deserves as much attention as the beaches, because visiting this island should not be limited to just lounging on the beaches, I'm thinking of those returning from Patong and saying "oh, I didn't like Phuket" when they get back, but Patong is NOT Phuket! At least that is in no way a representation of what the island has to offer in its entirety.

Phuket town

During the 19th century, the discovery of tin brought a large number of Chinese and Malay traders to exploit the mines. The city developed with the creation of many beautiful houses and businesses that are still well preserved. The typical architectural style of the region is described as Sino-Portuguese, for my part, I assimilate this style to that which can be found on the island of Penang in Malaysia.

The shop fronts extend to the 2nd floor, but the ground floor is left free and the upper floor serves as a roof for the sidewalk. Many shops have old wooden doors with carvings. The visit can be done on foot in old Phuket.

I am living proof that the main city of the island is generally ignored, I have never visited it myself… [something I have since done but it took until 2019! I invite you to read my article on the old town of Phuket]

The Mokens, the “Gypsies” of the sea

In English the "sea gypsies" and in Thai the Chao Le (literally, the people of the sea), these fishermen were originally nomads and many do not know it, they were the first inhabitants of the island. By nomad in fact, they used to settle in a bay and fish until they felt that the resources were dwindling, then they left for another bay, this in order to give nature time to recover.

Today, of the 3 existing ethnic groups (the Moken, the Moklen and the Urak Lawoi), only the Moken have remained nomadic, the other 2 having settled "permanently". The quotation mark prevails for the danger in the face of the race for development and various real estate projects, it could well be that in the long term these will disappear...

For the moment, There are 3 remaining villages of “sea gypsies”, one in Rawai, possibly the most visited since it is on the road to Prom Thep Cape. Another one north of Phuket Town on Saphan Bay and the last one on the island of Ko Sirey (marked Ko Sire on Google Maps), a small piece of land (more of a peninsula than a real island) east of Phuket Town.

Mainly of animist religion, they have their own festival, the Loy Ruea festival (see pictures here), which takes place twice a year and consists of sending small boats into the sea with gifts in order to please the ghosts of the sea and the souls of the dead, thus allowing the sea gypsies to live in peace and happiness.

Making small wooden boats.

East cost

Yes yes, basically the entire east coast has no beaches, so everyone (or almost) simply ignores it. And yet, this coast offers a beautiful view of Phang Nga Bay and its many islands, there are plenty of fishing villages and the mangroves that line this coast in the absence of sand, are the habitat of many birds and other animals including monkeys.

This is enough reason for me to take a little interest in this other half of the island. Here for example above are some photos taken on the way to Kung Bay (the shrimp bay), I can't locate it exactly but this bay is somewhere in the middle of the island (in relation to the length), it is indicated on the road by the famous blue signs relating to tourist attractions.

All of these tours are easier if you rent a scooter (usually 300 Baht per day). But I want to urge caution and read (or re-read!) my article about driving in Thailand is not too much 😉

So, Phuket, are you interested?