Gyeongbokgung: Visit the largest royal palace in Seoul

If there is one major site that you absolutely must see in South Korea and Seoul, it is Gyeongbokgung Palace.

It's a bit like the Grand Palais in Bangkok or Versailles in France, to compare the importance. And if we count five grand palaces in seoul, which are part of the classic visits to the capital, the Gyeongbokgung Palace is the largest and most important in the country.

The construction dates back to 1395, at the very beginning of the Joseon dynasty (the most influential era in Korea) to house the royal family. Its foundation also marked the change of capital, the former being the city of Kaesong, 50 km north of Seoul and now part of North Korea. Its location was then considered blessed by the gods, sitting between Bugaksan Mountain and Mount Namsan opposite. This is why its name means "Palace greatly blessed by heaven".

This article is part of my series on Seoul. If you're planning a comprehensive itinerary, find the detailed itinerary here. 4 days in Seoul.

Practical information

Go to the palace Gyeongbokgung

The Palace is easy to reach, as it is located in the heart of Seoul, at the end of Gwanghwamun Square, a sort of local Champs-Élysées.

Address: 161, Sajik-ro, Jongno-gu, Seoul

The fastest and most efficient way to get around Seoul. Given the importance of the site, there are obviously subway exits nearby, which will only take a few minutes of walking.

• Line 3, Gyeongbokgung Station (Government Complex-Seoul), exit 5
• Line 5, Gwanghwamun Station, Exit 2

Clarification : The site is open in the evening on certain evenings of the year (see below). Metro exit 5 on line 3 is then closed at these times, so you must take exit 4 instead.

If you exit from Gwanghwamun Station, you will walk along the Gwanghwamun Square for 400 m, an alley in the middle of the imposing avenue facing the palace. You will have the palace in front of you with in the middle of the square, a statue of King Sejong, an important sovereign of the XNUMXth century. If you turn around, you will see a pedestal with the standing statue of Admiral Yi Sun Shin, a true war hero, known for being a fine strategist, thanks to his fleet of battleships (well before the modern appearance of these warships) called "turtle ships".

Gwanghwamun Square, which faces the palace.

Due to its central location, there may be traffic. As mentioned before, the subway is the best way to reach Gyeongbokgung Palace. However, from Incheon Airport or outside Seoul, the bus can be a convenient way to get there. From Incheon Airport, take bus #6011.

Gyeongbokgung Palace Hours and Fees

Gyeongbokgung Palace Map

To help you find your way around the information I will provide below, here is a Gyeongbokgung Palace map. I indicate the numbers corresponding to the photos and associated explanations, so that if you do not take this guided tour, you will know roughly what is around you.

Brief history of the palace Gyeongbokgung

Gwanghwamun Gate in the early 20th century.

I mentioned it in the intro, the Gyeongbokgung Palace was the main royal palace of the Joseon dynasty, founded at the coronation of the new king, Taejo (Yi Seong-gye) in 1392. Note that this dynasty left a lasting mark on the country and was also the last in the history of Korea.

The new King Taejo decreed the town of Hanyang (which would become Seoul) as his new capital in 1394. The location was chosen based on the Chinese principle of Fengshui. The construction of Gyeongbokgung Palace was completed in 1395. Although the name of the palace indicates a temple under the protection of the heavens, it cannot be said that it was a success…

In summary, here are the key dates to remember:

1592-1598 : it is a period of Japanese invasion, which is called the Imjin War. The systematic relentlessness of Japanese troops on the sites embodying power, will not spare the king's palace which will be largely destroyed by the flames. Following this tragic episode, Changdeokgung, a secondary palace, was rebuilt and served as the main palace for nearly three centuries.

1867 : Prince Regent Heungseon restored Gyeongbokgung Palace during the reign of King Gojong (1852 – 1919). It then had over 500 restored buildings, spread over 40 hectares.

1910-1945 : this is the period of Japanese occupation. The palace is dismantled and a good part of the buildings (80%) are destroyed during the Japanese colonization.

1927 : Gwanghwamun Gate is removed. To assert their power, Imperial Japan builds a massive structure in the front area of ​​the palace to house the Japanese government-general which blocked the view of the palace.

A view of the palace when the large Japanese building was still present.

1990-2009 : Over time, the palace was gradually restored. It was not until the late 90s that the imposing Japanese building was razed. By the end of 2009, an estimated 40% of the structures that existed before the Japanese occupation of Korea had been restored or rebuilt.

2009    : South Korea is currently in a new phase of restoration planned for 20 years to restore the site to its original splendor.

Comparison of the structures present before the Japanese occupation and the current configuration of the site.

Attend the Changing of the Guard at Gyeongbokgung Palace

Before getting to the heart of the matter about the visit itself, I wanted to talk to you about an inseparable aspect of the visit to this palace, the changing of the guard ceremony. A very symbolic ceremony, which does not have the same aura as that of the famous Buckingham Palace in London but can be interesting to attend.

Changing of the Guard Ceremony

South Korea takes the preservation of its culture and heritage very seriously. In Seoul, the dress code and procedure are based on the style of the Joseon Dynasty, but these are not "real" guards. They are actors, who have been allowing this "reenactment" since 1996 with traditional uniforms and weapons in hand. The whole thing is orchestrated with traditional music playing in the background.

The changing of the guard ceremony was first instituted in 1469 during the (short) reign of King Yejong, when the day guards changed with those on night duty.

The royal guards of the Joseon Dynasty were by definition responsible for guarding and patrolling the royal palaces and city gates. The commander of the gate guards, called Sumunjang, was the military leader who led these royal guards.

Photo credit : by ddol-mang / CC BY-SA

Guards on duty in front of the door

The Royal Palace Parade

Other “spots” to guard

Visit the different structures of the palace

Let's get to the heart of the matter this time concerning the visit to the palace itself. I will first discuss numbers 1, 2 and 3 corresponding to the map, which represents the heart of this imposing ensemble.

Note the presence on each side of the door, bases with a statue of a sort of lion. It is the one we see in the old photo above and it is especially the haetae, animal from Korean mythology. It has the shape of a lion covered in scales or fur with a horn on its forehead.

Also called haechi, it became the official symbol of Seoul in 2008 and is generally seen as a strong national symbol. They usually go together, not just for show, but because it represents a couple, male and female, protectors often placed at the entrance of important buildings.

Statue of a "haete" in front of Gwanghwamun Gate.

1. Gwanghwamun Gate

It is through its large main gate, in front of the square bearing the same name, Gwanghwamun, that you will enter the Gyeongbokung Palace complex.

Since Gyeongbokgung Palace was the main palace of the Joseon Dynasty, the gates were built like fortresses with high stone walls and three arched entrances. This is a configuration that was also found in Vietnam. Namely, the central arch is only used by the king while the crown prince(s) and government officials used the side entrances.

The architecture features a double roof, typical of Korea. A bell inside the building was used to announce the time of day. Gwanghwamun Gate was first rebuilt in 1968, in a "provisional" version in concrete, but has since been completely restored by replacing its original structure.

During the Joseon Dynasty, the square in front of Gwanghwamun Gate was used by citizens to gather and express their political opinions. Behind the palace is the Blue House, the current residence of the Korean president (equivalent to the Elysée Palace) but also with the proximity of the American embassy across the street, Gwanghwamun Square still serves as a place for demonstrations and important political events. This is what we could see with anti-communist leaflets and protests that seem almost daily.

2. Heungnyemun (The Second Inner Gate)

Just after you pass through the big gate, you will find the counter to buy entrance tickets on your right. Unless you are wearing a traditional costume, don't forget to take them 😉 If this is your first palace in Seoul, take the package mentioned above for 10 W, that way you will be ready for the following visits.

You are now inside the palace.

It is a large, vast courtyard separating the main gate from the Heungnyemun secondary gate. The opportunity to mention the crowd that can occupy the place. It goes without saying that as aunmissable in Seoul, it's going well in terms of selfies and many locals come every day to visit their heritage, magnificently restored, it must be said.

This is also the case of the inner gate, Heungnyemun, which was restored to its original state after the Japanese colonial government building was demolished. This is the gate that surrounds a cloister with an intermediate courtyard with the one surrounded the throne room, Geunjeongjeon.

There were people, and yet, I want to point out that we arrived late. To clarify the circumstances, we had just arrived from Bangkok that morning, the time to go to the hotel and reach the palace via the Cheonggyecheon promenade, we entered the Gyeongbokgung Palace only around 16 p.m.

On the other hand, I didn't particularly expect this fashion here either, to dress traditionally to visit a historical site. It's a phenomenon that we had already seen the year before in Japan. I don't know who had the idea first, but for the record, it's also something that you can come across in Thailand, especially in the ruins of ayuttaya.

3. Geunjeongjeon, the throne room

Geunjeongjeon means "diligent government". It was the throne room of the kings of the Joseon Dynasty, to handle important state affairs such as coronations, cabinet meetings, state visits, etc.

The current hall was built in 1867, after being burned down during the Japanese invasion in 1592. Symbolizing the sacred monarchy, it is the great hall of the palace. It is in the middle of a stone-paved square, the path leading to the hall is marked by steles with inscriptions on them. These indicate the positions of court officials, lined up here by rank (as indicated on the stone steles) during official functions at Geunjeongjeon.

The Geujeongjeon Hall rests on a stone base, which is accessed by a series of steps decorated with floral motifs carved into the stone. The balustrades are also carved into the stone, and animal statues (including the haetae, of course) scattered here and there complete the decor.

The imposing, particularly colorful roof is immediately noticeable. While there is a certain similarity with Japanese roofs in the architecture, Korean roofs are much more decorated, with colorful patterns, all dominated by a pretty green.

The Geujeongjeon Hall itself is quite plain. There is hardly any furniture despite the large space, but the ceiling is superb. In an alcove in the ceiling is a pair of seven-clawed dragons, which symbolize the king and the state. Behind the throne is a painting of a five-peaked mountain, with the sun and moon on both sides.

4. Sajeongjeon Hall

Sajeongjeon served as the king's main office to manage state affairs. Joseon leaders held daily morning assemblies with top officials here. It features a tableau similar to that of the throne room.

One of the buildings also served as a library for the kings, where they studied classics of Chinese literature and sought advice from a group of scholars on how best to be fair. We don't linger too long in this area before moving on, because otherwise we'll never finish visiting...

After I say that but it doesn't stop me, true to myself, from serving you a "big" series of photos of the place.

11. Gyeonghoeru Pavilion

We then went to the Gyeonghoeru Pavilion. Surrounded by a pond, it is one of the most photogenic spots in the palace.

Le Gyeonghoeru Pavilion served as a royal banquet hallIt was used during important state events, for royal celebrations, receptions of foreign diplomats and certain rituals.

The windows of the rooms on the upper floor frame the magnificent view of Inwangsan Mountain. Furthermore, the 12 rooms of the pavilion refer to the 12 months of the year while the 24 exterior pillars supporting the structure represent the 24 solar terms.

Royals and special guests also used to boat on the pond. In 1997, the pond's clean-up project revealed two bronze dragon sculptures lying at the bottom of the mud. Each dragon weighed 66,5 kg and was about 1 m tall. It was believed that the dragon controlled water and therefore rainfall. They deliberately placed these dragons in the pond to protect the wooden architecture from fire, but to hope for rainfall that would allow for a prosperous harvest.

FYI, this pair of dragons is currently on display at the National Palace Museum (on the left after the large Gwanghwamun gate).

Le The current pavilion was rebuilt in 1867, after it burned completely during the Japanese invasion in 1592. While other structures in the palace have since burned down or been destroyed again, this pavilion at least survived until then. This makes it the oldest of the new restoration still standing.

15. Taewonjeon Hall

We then rushed to the next spot to see, because it was already 17pm and some areas start to close (it takes a while to get everyone out before the 18pm closing time in May). We were the last ones to enter the complex of buildings called Taewonjeon, located at the very back of the palace, near the North Gate (Sinmumun).

A more airy area of ​​the palace, leading to the Taewonjeon Hall at the back.

Le main hall of Taewonjeon housed the portrait of King Taejo, founder of the Joseon Dynasty. The other buildings in this complex located at the northwest corner of Gyeongbokgung Palace are named Binjeon Hall, Honjeon Hall and Yeongjeon Hall, Taewonjeon Hall. Each had a specific function, resembling shrines, or failing that, religious sites.

Binjeon Hall is where deceased royals were laid to rest right after their death. While Honjeon Hall kept the mortuary tablets for two years before moving them to Jongmyo Shrine. Finally, Yeongjeon Hall was used to display the portraits of the deceased and is also where funeral rites were held.

At the beginning of the 20th century, the Taewonjeon Hall complex was dismantled and the current one is just a replica. This is also what I often hear as a criticism of Korea. It suffered heavy damage following the various wars, so there is not much left that is original, but almost only reconstructions, replicas.

It is felt, it is true, but firstly, it is not really their fault, and secondly, we must give time time too. Tell yourself that these buildings will perhaps still be visited in 400 years if there are no other wars (well in Korea, it is not won, with its neighbor ...), and that it will therefore be old at a given moment.

After this quick passage, we passed behind the pond at the pavilion, in a group of buildings not numbered on the map, so I don't know what they correspond to. So the design remains similar to what we had been able to see until then, so nothing transcendent, we didn't linger either while the time was running out, the palace was going to close soon.

12, 13. Hyangwonjeong Pavilion and Geongcheonggung Palace

We were starting to hurry up since the doors of Taewonjeon Hall had just closed behind us. To make life easier for us, it turns out that the Hyangwonjeong Pavilion, and the entire area, was closed for restoration when I visited…. 

It was the personal garden of Emperor Gojong and his queen, Myeongseong. Gojong reigned from 1867 to 1907 and was the last king of the Joseon Dynasty and the first of only two emperors of the Korean Empire, which collapsed with the country's colonization by Japan in 1910. It was Gojong who undertook most of the renovation work on the palace (begun by his father who was in charge of the regency when his son was still a minor), after it had been abandoned for more than two centuries.

Photo credit : Joseph Park / CC BY-SA

At the back of the complex, he decided to build a separate residence, the Geongcheonggung Palace (#13 on the map) to enjoy their quiet private time. The residence was built in 1873, five years after the reconstruction of Gyeongbok Palace. Opposite this residence is Hyangwonji Pond, which was developed with the Hyangwonjeong Pavilion in the middle and a wooden bridge connecting it. It is the centerpiece of this garden adjoining the palace, designed to be a place of relaxation, specific to the royal family.

It also looks very photogenic, too bad we couldn't take a look, in the late afternoon, there was beautiful light.

14, 18. Jibokjae and the National Folk Museum of Korea

Next to the Geongcheonggung residence is Jibokjae, which is actually three buildings, with the Hyeopgildang and Parujeong halls. These three structures were originally located in Changdeokgung Palace. They were later moved to Gyeongbokgung when King Gojong moved from his then residence to the newly renovated palace in 1888. King Gojong used these buildings as a library and a reception hall for foreign delegations.

Compared to other buildings, Jibokjae Hall is different because it presents a chinese architecture which was considered “modern” at that time.

So, hiding this whole part, we had in view number 18 of the plan, the National Folk Museum of Korea, recognizable by its pagoda, which stands out above the other buildings. It is one of two museums integrated into the palace (the other being the National Palace Museum of Korea, already mentioned and corresponding to number 17). It would not have been particularly visited anyway and it is a more modern construction.

Building and its page of the National Folk Museum of Korea.

9, 10. Jagyeongjeon and Donggung

As we reached the main gate, although we had been relatively alone since our visit to the Taewonjeon hall, we began to see a few people again, as we passed by the Jagyeongjeon Residence (n ° 9).

Jagyeongjeon Hall served as a residence area for Queen Sinjeong, the one through whom King Gojong came to power, although she was not his descendant (but had power as the eldest dowager). The hall was built when Gojong's father Daewongun (then the Heungseon Regent) had started the reconstruction of Gyeongbokgung Palace. Unfortunately, the building went up in smoke as soon as it was finished…. But the new structure was restored shortly after in 1888.

Entrance to the Queen's Quarter, Jagyeongjeon Hall.

Not far from Jagyeongjeon, there is Donggung Residence (No. 10 on the plan), that of the crown prince. This residence is to the east of the throne room, which is not completely insignificant, because while the sun rises from the east, this palace therefore symbolizes the future ascension of the crown prince who ascends to the throne.

While this configuration was not original to Gyeongbokgung Palace, it was added by King Sejong in 1427. Obviously not having survived the tragic history of the place, the current building was rebuilt in 1999.

If we look at the plan, we see that there is normally nothing between these two residences. Which is no longer the case today. I have not found an up-to-date plan while these buildings have apparently been completed since 2015…

6, 7 and 8. Gangnyeongjeon, Gyotaejeon, Amisan Garden

This is a whole area that we will completely skip due to lack of time. It is located at the back of the Sajeongjeon hall (behind the throne room as a reminder).

It includes the king's quarters (Gangnyeongjeon, n ° 6) and the queen (Gyotaejeon, in n ° 7). The Gangnyeongjeon Hall has been burned down three times in history, including during the reign of King Sejong in 1397-1450, who instigated it.

It was rebuilt in the late 19th century like the rest, but was dismantled to be used as material for the reconstruction of the living quarters of Changdeokgung Palace in 1918. The current building was not rebuilt until 1995, using specifications based on the original plan.

Gangnyeongjeon Hall. Photo credit: Spike / CC BY-SA

Similar fate for the Queen's quarters, Gyotaejeon Hall having been dismantled at the same time. Its materials were used to build the Daejojeon Hall of Changdeokgung Palace.

Le n ° 8 finally, corresponds to the Amisan garden. Located behind the queen's quarters (Gyotaejeon), Amisan consists of an artificial mound, which symbolizes Mount Emei (located in Sichuan in China). This sacred mountain was then considered the most beautiful and mysterious of that time.

There are terraces of flowering plants arranged harmoniously on the mound. One can also notice chimneys, which functioned as exhausts of the heating system of the Gyotaejeon Hall.

Amisan Garden. Photo credit: G41rn8 / CC BY-SA

Back to the throne room

To complete our loop around Gyeongbokgung Palace, we passed the East Gate, Geonchunmun, much more modest in appearance than the main one. We reached the cloister surrounding the throne room under a beautiful late afternoon light, while we urged the last recalcitrants like us to leave.

It was an opportunity to take some photos of the place, previously so lively and now empty with only the staff waiting to be able to close all the doors.

The East Gate, Geonchunmun.

A couple in traditional dress, the hanbok, heading like us towards the exit at the end of the afternoon.

What to do around Gyeongbokgung?

• • Bukchon Hanok Village
  • Insadong Neighborhoods
  • Walk along Cheonggyecheon

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