Ko Kood (Ko Kut): a still preserved island with heavenly beaches

Imagine a preserved island, far from the crowds and tourist clichés. An image that many still think has become impossible in Thailand. And yet, here is Ko Kood, nestled in the heart of the Trat archipelago, this little-known pearl has managed to retain its old-world charm.

Ko Kood (more often spelled Koh Kood or even Ko Kut) is the southernmost of the group of islands located in this northern area of ​​the Gulf of Thailand, close to the border with Cambodia. Although it is the 4th largest island in Thailand, it remains very undeveloped, despite its proximity to Ko Chang, an island with some popularity.

I had first discovered Ko Mak, the smallest of the 3 main islands of the archipelago, which I liked a lot for its very relaxed atmosphere. I then visited Ko Chang, the most developed, but which keeps a rather wild, rootsy overall aspect. All I had to do was discover Ko Kood to complete the trio, and without a shadow of a doubt, it is The most beautiful of the lot.

For information on the other islands of the archipelago, here are the links:

• For Ko Mak, it's this way
• For Ko Chang, over there

The most beautiful beaches of Ko Kood

Ko Kood is an unspoilt island where the beaches retain their wild and pristine character. Only some beaches are developed with hotels, while others remain completely untouched, accessible only by boat. A large portion of these unexplored beaches are found along the northern tip of the island, beyond the arrival pier of Ao Salad. All the exploited beaches are found on the western half of the island, while the east coast is devoid of beaches and road access, making it simply inaccessible.

Private beaches

In the list of beaches in Ko Kood, it is worth mentioning first of all those whose access is exclusively reserved (or almost) for the guests of the main hotels that border them. In theory, the privatization of beaches in Thailand is illegal, since the law stipulates that all beaches are public. However, in practice, some establishments occupy such large areas that it is impossible to access them without eating at the restaurant or staying there.

Soneva Kiri

Among these wild areas is a private enclave, reserved for the very luxurious Soneva Kiri, one of the most prestigious hotels in the country (from €850 per night!). That's why you can spot a runway on the small island of Ko Mai Si, as it is possible to reach it using their private plane shuttle.

Although the villas are spread out on a hillside and an area that doesn't really have a beach (a shame at this price), guests have the use of a boat that can take them to a beach just north of the resort.

Ao Noi Beach

The beach where we stayed is indeed a private beach. Although it was once possible to access it as a day visitor for a fee of 100 baht, this option is no longer available. There is only one hotel overlooking this beautiful bay, simply called Ao Noi Resort. Given the green setting, it is understandable that access to this beach is exclusively reserved for its customers (originally targeting mainly Thai families on weekends). It would however be possible to reach it by kayak from the neighboring beach of Khlong Chao, count for 20 minutes of effort.

This place is truly magnificent, the almost caricatured image of the Post card, a small lost paradise, with incredible translucent water, lined with coconut trees. The pier with its shelter also offers a privileged view of the beach and is a perfect place to admire the sunset.

However, my main complaint, in addition to its secluded side, is that the value for money is not excellent, despite a warm welcome and a decent restaurant. But I don't regret my choice, the beach was worth it!

Ngam Kho Beach and Haad Na Lay

Ngam Kho is actually two separate beaches, separated by a canal. Although most sources listing Ko Kood's beaches group them under one name, I consider them two separate entities because of this separation.

To the north, you will find a first beach, occupied by the S-beach Resort. According to some indications, it would be possible to access it by following the canal near the Nomkhon Station Cafe. We also tested this café which, taking a look at the photos, made me want to take a break there. Located on the edge of the canal that separates the two parts of Ngam Kho, the café offers a wooden terrace ideal for relaxing.

While it is true that the spot is not bad, unfortunately, the drinks offered were mediocre in terms of quality. In addition, since we were not there with this in mind, I did not check if we could actually access the beach from this place. I have a doubt, because a priori the land behind is occupied by another resort, the Huggy beach resort.

To the south, the beach is more extensive and mainly occupied by the Kohkood Dusita Resort. For some reason, perhaps it is older, the name of this beach is derived from the name of the smaller hotel located at the southern end, the Ngam Kho Resort. I wanted to stop by for a snack and a quick coffee, just to have access to the beach and see what it looks like.

And the result, well, is that at high tide, the coconut trees line the shore so much that there is no real beach available to lie down on a towel. So don't count on this place to sunbathe. However, this place offers a wild and preserved environment. From there, you can see two small chedis placed on a rock, called "Koh Jai Dee", it is a well-known snorkeling spot on the island.

Rounding out this area is the last beach in this central trio, Haad Na Lay. Its access is privileged for guests of the A-Na-Lay Resort. Just before reaching the Ngam Kho Resort, we stopped there to take a break, have a snack and a beer at the restaurant, precisely so that I could take pictures of the beach.

The restaurant is on a rocky part and several bungalows are spread along it. A wooden walkway leads onto the beach itself, with even a slide placed there to launch yourself into the water.

Khlong Han Beach and Khlong Yai Ki Beach

In the north of the island, you will find two beaches that are close to each other, each bordering a canal. I would like to point out that in Ko Kood, many of the beaches are right next to canals that flow into the sea, so the term "Khlong" is often used to refer to these beaches, although the word "Khlong" means "canal" (while "Haad" is used for "beach" and "Ao" for "bay").

The road to Khlong Han is the one leading to the luxury hotel Soneva Kiri, and passes not far from the Khlong Yai Kee waterfall. It is not wide but concreted, with a small wooden bridge spanning the canal, giving a little adventure to get lost in this very little visited area.

The northernmost beach is Khlong Han, which is actually divided into two parts as it forms an L shape. There is no visible demarcation but the western part is known as Secret Sunset Beach, and if it is not really "secret", it is in any case reserved for the customers of Soneva Kiri. The rest, facing south, is Khlong Han strictly speaking.

Secret Sunset Beach, or the northern part of Khlong Han.

This isolation meant that until recently (just before the Covid-19 pandemic), Khlong Han had remained completely untouched, without any infrastructure. When we visited, a café-restaurant, the Moana Resort & MuEi Bar, had already set up shop along the canal. Part of the beach is now occupied by a group of bungalows, which were then under construction, and which have become the Seacret Kohkood Resort.

Although the beach is not exceptional compared to others, it offers a view of the small island of Ko Raet, accessible by kayak. This elongated island has a single house that serves as a restaurant specializing in fish and seafood.

The island also serves as a snorkeling spot during the day, with boats normally leaving from Khlong Mad (see below), located opposite the southern end of Ko Raet. If I had had a bit more time, I would have been tempted, but for this time, I gave it a miss.

When we visited, the initial intention was to have a lunch break at the Moana Resort & MuEi Bar, unfortunately, it was closed due to Covid. That didn't suit me because I knew there wasn't much around... But luckily, my friend Google is there, and I see the name Bann Makok, which apparently is also a reference on the island for lunch. All that remains is to hope that it's open...

The Moana Resort & MuEi Bar, set on the water.

So we went to the Bann Makok, which is set along another canal, which opens onto the deserted beach of Khlong Yai Ki (also spelled Khlong Yai Kee). In addition to a good restaurant, with its pretty setting, surrounded by mangroves, it is also a guesthouse, although a little isolated.

This stopover ultimately turned out to be a good decision, as we were able to discover the Khlong Yai Ki beach. As it is inaccessible by road, the only way is by kayak. However, you can rent some from the Bann Makok. The only other hotel in the area being the Captain Hook Resort, which is otherwise only accessible by boat, Khlong Yai Ki beach is therefore very little visited, and therefore almost not maintained.

To take a picture, there is a nice spot right near the Captain Hook Resort. There is a sandbar allowing you to disembark and observe the surroundings from the middle of the mouth, an atypical experience.

Concretely I had rented the kayak for an hour (I don't remember if it was 200 or 300 baht, but in those waters), which was more than enough to go to the end of the canal, take some photos and come back. We didn't venture too far out to sea because I felt that there was a current beyond our little sandbank.

Klong Mad Beach

It is a very small beach located next to the pier of the village of the same name (also spelled Klong Mard). It seems privatized, because the Suanya Koh Kood Resort & Spa occupies almost all the space, but a priori it remains accessible via the side, adjoining the pontoon. As this is also where a village is located, I will talk about it again in the corresponding section.

Ao Tapao Beach

The layout of Ao Tapao is a bit unusual. It is the longest beach on the island but only the northern half is currently used. The northern end is occupied by the excellent Boutique Hotel, the Shantaa, one of the two original hotel complexes on the beach, the others having arrived much more recently.

New arrivals, you have the trio, Koh Kood Paradise Beach, as well as the smaller ones Medee Resort et Sea Far Resort, all of which are pretty good 3-4 star accommodations. It was actually while going between these last two that I first accessed Ao Tapao beach to see the last sunset of the year.

Unfortunately, the weather was overcast that evening so I decided to go back the next day to get better colors. I was content to take a few photos from the pier. Nam Leuk Pier, which provides a beautiful overall view of the beach.

This pier was also unused for a long time and was still abandoned at the time of our visit, but has apparently since been renovated and boats can now once again dock here in addition to the main pier at Ao Salad.

If it is there, it is because next door is what could be called the main village, Khlong Hin Dam, which houses a temple, the Wat Rat Bamrung, as well as the hospital, the police station and the only bank on the island, a revolution when you think that until recently, there were no ATMs (cash dispensers) on the island.

Ao Tapao beach is good for swimming since that's where we stayed on the 3rd evening of our stay, to change from Bang Bao which we had favored until then.

Klong Chao Beach

Klong Chao is now considered the tourist center of the island. This is where you will find the most accommodation options, restaurants, spas, massage parlors, an ATM or even a diving center (Koh Kood Divers). If you like to have a minimum of entertainment around you, then Klong Chao is where you should stay. You will also have the choice between several bars, some of which are located in the beachfront hotels, while others are located further inland.

After that, there is still Ko Kood, so despite this relative popularity, Klong Chao retains a certain sobriety that distinguishes it from the beaches of Koh Chang, and that is precisely what I like. Here, you will not be overwhelmed by souvenir shops, tourist agents, tattoo parlors or massage parlors in abundance.

Klong Chao can be divided into two distinct areas. On one side, you have the beachfront area where the most luxurious hotels are located. These hotels are among the most renowned on the island and form a quartet along the beach. At the northern end, between the river and the sea, you will find the Peter Pan Resort, especially famous for its bar. It is also the least expensive of the lot, due to the lack of a swimming pool (unless you take a villa with its own pool.

Right next door, we then have the Wendy The Pool Resort, whose concept is a set of villas all having access to the central swimming pool, it is, therefore, the most expensive of the lot. After you will find the High Season Pool Villa & Spa, renowned for its spa and offering excellent services. Finally, at the southern end of the beach, you will find the Tinkerbell Resort, which completes the quartet.

As you venture further inland, you will find a variety of guesthouse options. Some are located along the river, which is fed by water from the Khlong Chao waterfalls and, further upstream, by the Huang Nam Khiao waterfall. Options include the Baan Klong Jao ​​Homestay, whose restaurant, Ra Beang Mai, has a good reputation and offers views of the mangroves.

A little further you will find Mangrove bungalow & restaurant, which, as its name suggests, is both a hotel, cheaper than its neighbor, and also offers an interesting option for dining by the water. Continuing on the road leading to the Khlong Chao waterfall, you will find the excellent bar "Bartist Koh Kood", and in terms of accommodation, at the foot of the mountain, the forest homestay, housed in a beautiful wooden house, surrounded by the jungle.

Coming back to the beach itself, it is a beautiful stretch of sand, fine white sand that is super pleasant to walk on (it is also listed as White Beach on Google Maps or even Tinkerbell Beach and not Khlong Chao). Afterwards, we find the same problem as many beaches in Thailand, namely that at high tide, there is no place to sit other than by overflowing into the area reserved for hotels... Only the southern part, where the public access is, will you find a little width.

To enjoy a beautiful view of this beach, head south, up the hill you will see the Good View bungalows, which has a small cafe-restaurant with panoramic views of the length of the beach.

Bang Bao Beach

Bang Bao is a beautiful horseshoe-shaped bay. It is one of the most popular beaches on the island after Khlong Chao. Here you will find a good choice of accommodation, an excellent bar (the Hidden Gem by Monkey Bar), a dive centre (BB Divers) and at least one massage parlour. Restaurants and cafes, apart from the hotels which have them, are mainly located along the main road, which runs about 500 metres from the beach. There are a few good restaurants here, including the excellent "Chiang Mai" and "Fisherman's Hut", as well as a few mini-markets.

It is an idyllic place, also known as a snorkeling spot because of the rock walls on the sides. We actually came back here twice to swim at the end of the day. However, here again, the downside is that at high tide, most of the beach disappears underwater.

Another problem is that the south of the beach is lined with several small hotels with bungalows lined up, directly overlooking the beach. The latter, despite a lack of effort to renovate the rooms or train their staff, do not hesitate to align themselves with the prices of the other hotels, so not the best place for good value for money.

The other accommodations, to the north of the bay, are more luxurious, and all have their own pontoons, which, in my eyes, detracts from the nature of the bay a little. For example, the To The Sea Resort, located on a rocky and not sandy area, but which nevertheless offers good value for money, a superb view of the bay and elegant bungalows.

For a higher budget, you can opt for the excellent The Beach Natural Resort Koh Kood. Conversely, for a more reasonable budget, the Koh Kood Resort is one of the best options in this price range.

If being by the beach is not a priority, a new guest house, Koh Kood BEDs, has recently opened its doors slightly set back from the main road. Staying just a 5-minute walk from the beach, you can enjoy brand new rooms, attentive staff and very reasonable prices.

Takhian Beach

From the south of Bang Bao, the coastline begins to trend southwest, making it more exposed to the wind. The sea is often rougher and it is more common to find debris washed up there, as the beach is very undeveloped and receives less cleaning.

Access to the beach is via a dirt road indicating the Cham's House, a nice 4-star resort, which is currently the only one operating in Takhian. The other resort on Takhian was badly affected by the pandemic and was abandoned when we visited.

Despite these shortcomings, Takhian Beach remains a picturesque bay, with some rocky outcrops that adorn the beach, which again, disappears at high tide. Clearly Takhian is a less tourist-friendly spot due to its limited accessibility and lack of tourist development. However, it offers a tranquil and unspoiled setting, ideal for those looking to get away from the hustle and bustle and enjoy a natural environment.

Basically, apart from walking along the shore, swimming in the clear waters, possibly kayaking or just relaxing, there is nothing else to do in Takhian.

Khlong Hin

Khlong Hin is an ideal place for those seeking peace and privacy, as it is also not crowded with tourists. The beach here is serene and quiet. To get there, you have to take an unpaved road after a junction leading to Takhian on one side and Khlong Hin on the other. The route runs alongside rubber and coconut plantations, offering a wild and unspoiled atmosphere.

The beach is actually divided into two areas. On one side, there is an end bordered by a coconut grove and behind, you actually have another beach, indicated by a sign as "The Secret Beach", it was still deserted until recently. Today it is the landmark of the Hideout Koh Kood, a hotel that has quickly built up a serious reputation for itself at a very attractive price.

The south of this beach is rocky, the sea looks shallow. I was amused by the two deck chairs that look like they were forgotten there but would certainly make a nice sunbathing spot at the end of the world.

On the main bay, almost half is occupied by the garden and the bungalows of the Khlong Hin Beach Resort, and at the end, a small nugget surrounded by mangroves, the At The Koh Kood Resort. On the other hand, it is so quiet that I did not come across any restaurants so it is better to have something to be independent if you want to eat elsewhere.

During my visit to Khlong Hin, the gloomy weather somewhat tarnished my experience at the time. It's never pleasant to have a grey sky, especially at the beach. However, from the photos taken in good weather that I could see, the beach does not detract from the charm of the island.

Ao Jak Beach

Ao Jak offers a similar atmosphere to Khlong Hin, with a more natural side. Access is also via a dirt track, about 1 km long, crossing a beautiful coconut forest. Apparently, the beach is gaining popularity in recent times because just 2/3 years ago, there was only one hotel, the Koh Kood Neverland Beach Resort. Since then, several other guesthouses have been added to the area, such as Koh Kood Club, nestled on the edge of the canal (again) located right next to the beach.

There is also the Rim Lay. That was actually my plan when I came here, to have lunch at the Rimlay cafe', but, I'll give you a guess, no food because of Covid... I settled for a drink and we stayed a while to enjoy the swings with our feet in the water, so as not to leave as quickly as we arrived.

I found Ao Jak Beach to be nicer than Khlong Hin, and with the addition of more accommodation there are also more dining options, as well as a bar close to the main road called Plearn by Taan. Just opposite you will find The Kood Cafe (they don't bother with names).

In our case, I had spotted a restaurant on the path leading to the beach, which also seems recent, so it was finally at the Walk In Thai Restaurant that we had our lunch that day (restaurant of the Walk In homestay that I suggest in the accommodation options).

Ao Phrao Beach

Ao Phrao Beach, the southernmost beach on Ko Kood, is considered one of the three best beaches on the island. A kilometer of bright white sand facing south. Ideal for sun worshippers. And I have to say, it certainly made a strong impression on me. Despite fewer trees on its shoreline giving it a more “bare” feel, it is a superb beach.

Most of the guesthouses are clustered on the southern part of the beach, with the exception of a few cheap options, which you'll find along the canal to the north. This is where I was coming from, and we came across a small fishing community that lives in the estuary area.

This is where the Rest Sea Resort, which turns out to be the best option to stay on Ao Phrao and even one of the best on the island, if you don't mind the isolation. I would like to remind you, however, that, as mentioned above, due to its exposure, when the wind blows, the sea can become rough, with a less clear sea proportionally to the other beaches.

It remains a relative defect, which on the one hand, I did not notice during my visit, but also because unlike other islands where it is less disturbing, I do not particularly recommend going to Ko Kood during the rainy season, when the winds will be more present.

Ao Phrao has a semblance of life, between the mini fishing village, its small supermarket, and even a temple, the Wat Ao Phrao, which we visited in passing, is a beautiful place that allows you not to feel completely isolated. In addition, it is not far from the fishing village of Ao Yai. However, since it is at the other end of the island, you have to be patient to reach it because it is 20 km from the arrival dock, and the road crossing the island is not done by driving at full speed obviously.

Coming back to the temple, Wat Phrao is divided into two parts. One borders the canal, with a large courtyard and the school next to it (it is common to have a school adjoining a temple like that in Thailand). The other part is made up of a building on the other side of the road, up high. This is precisely what led me to visit this temple in particular, because while doing my scouting, I had noticed that you can have a view of Ao Phrao beach.

Exploring the land: between waterfalls and century-old forest

Traveling around the island of Ko Kood by scooter (be legal though) is definitely the best thing to do besides lounging on the beaches. And since lazing around is not my thing, I enjoyed discovering all the natural sites that can be found on the island. Ko Kood has three small waterfalls in particular that offer a pleasant moment of freshness, especially compared to the beaches where the water can be warm due to its shallowness.

Khlong Chao Waterfall

The main waterfall on Ko Kood, especially because it is the easiest to access. It is particularly well-known because it is located in the mountainous area near Klong Chao Beach, considered the main beach on the island, but also because it has some historical importance.

In fact, King Mongkut (Rama VI) visited the waterfall in 1911 and gave it the royal name of "Namtok Anam Kok", in reference to Ong Chiang Sue, the Thai name given to the King of Annam (the former name of Vietnam) who had come to seek asylum in Siam during the reign of King Rama I.

The engraving marking the passage of the sovereign.

This is the waterfall we visited first during our stay in Ko Kood since it is the closest to Ao Noi (the beach where we slept). Coming from the main road, you cross the bridge then the village and will arrive at a T junction. On the right, it continues towards the south of the island while on the left, it goes down towards the mountain, at the foot of which you will come across a few guesthouses and restaurants.

You will have another small crossroads where you have to turn left again. In any case, it is indicated, difficult to get lost. The road is tarmac up to a certain point after which you will have a dirt track, passing next to a rubber plantation. The track continues to a parking lot, after which you have to walk for about 400 m to reach the foot of the waterfall.

The trail is well marked at first, with a paved path, then it becomes a bit rocky but easy to traverse. The last part of the journey is done by walking on the stream bed, which is made up of flat rock slabs. In only about 10 minutes, you will arrive at the waterfall from the parking lot. Khlong Chao is similar to Khlong Yai Kee, with a steep stone wall, but in a much larger version.

Khlong Chao also offers a larger playground, with a larger natural pool where you can find ropes suspended from the branches of the trees to play Tarzan in the water. It is a great place to have fun and relax. However, bring something to eat and drink, as there is nothing around.

Si access is free, there is normally a box to make a donation if you are ever in a generous mood.

Khlong Yai Kee Waterfall

The second waterfall of Koh Kood is located in the northwest of the island, near Khlong Yai Kee. It is the northernmost waterfall of the island and we went there by going to see the beach of Khlong Han, the latter being on the road leading to Soneva Kiri. If you arrive like us from Ao Noi (or from further down like Khlong Chao), the shortest way is to go straight to the intersection that you will come to after passing the small hospital and the police station. This also allows you to visit the village of Khlong Mard.

If you go to the right, at the base it joins Ao Salad but can at some point also branch off towards the waterfall road. In other words, you can also visit the waterfall after a tour of the village of Ao Salad, without going back down to Klong Mad.

When you are on the right road, the waterfall will be clearly indicated by a sign on the right, shortly after a small grocery store lost there in the middle of nowhere. If you arrive at a small wooden bridge spanning the canal, it is because you missed the sign. It is obvious, but it is the water coming from this waterfall that feeds the same canal on the edge of which we had our lunch that day (at Bann Makok) which opens onto the beach of the same name (Khlong Yai Kee therefore).

At the junction, you will have toilets, and just after, you will come across a small parking lot, where there is potentially a drinks and snacks vendor. The path to the waterfall is downhill, with stairs and a rope on each side. It is really not far so easy to access.

Huang Nam Keaw Waterfall

Hidden in the depths of the island, beyond the century-old trees (see below), this is the third waterfall of Koh Kood. For a long time, it was a bit of a legend as its access was difficult, it was necessary to count a good hour of trek and still, in the absence of signs, it was still necessary to find it… This earned for a long time Huang Nam Keaw (spelled Huang Nam Khiao on Google Maps), nicknamed “secret waterfall”.

However, for a few years now, the old narrow path has been concreted for more than a kilometer of the 4 km separating the parking lot from the main road. The unpaved part is wide and easy up to the height of the century-old trees and requires a bit more caution on the next part, because it is more in a straight line and it goes down a little.

When you arrive, you will see a parking lot, located next to a nice little restaurant run by locals who have always lived there, which also does homestay with just 2 rooms at 500 baht per night. I had planned to eat there because it was perfect for our timing and it has a very good reputation. But hey, I was too optimistic, it was, covid requires, not yet open…

The falls themselves are on the right and are now accessed by steps up a rocky hillside to reach the bottom. Depending on the time of year, it may be possible to climb over the huge boulders to reach the top, where there is a small pool.

Personally, I really liked the place, very photogenic, right in the middle of the jungle, with the possibility of passing behind the main waterfall which descends for a good ten meters.

The great trees Sai Yai and Makayuk

On your way to Huang Nam Keaw Falls, you can see two giant, multi-hundred trees that were discovered by the people of Ko Kood. Their age is not known precisely, but I saw the information that one would be around 200 years old and the other would reach the venerable 500 years old. First, you will come across the Banyan Tree or banian, called Sai Yai (with the annotation Big Chai Tree on Google Maps). It is technically a ficus, and by extension, a genus of fig tree well known in Southeast Asian landscapes.

As you are on the small road leading to the waterfall, you should see a first discreet sign at some point on your right, since you have to take a small dirt road perpendicular to the road and follow it for just 200 m. The tree is literally next to the end of this road on the left. Banyans are often majestic trees, but you have to admit that this one has some serious roots.

Because it is a sacred tree, in addition to the traditional garlands of flowers, statuettes and pieces of colorful fabric wrapped around the trunk, we could even see banknotes between the sprawling roots. What also makes it atypical is that it actually seems to be composed of two separate trees that have merged together. We can therefore see two large trunks with a gap between the two.

Back on the "main" road, continue to the right, still towards the waterfall and you will see about 300 m plus another sign, this time on the left, indicating the other remarkable tree of this forest, a giant Makha (Afzelia xylocarpa from its scientific name). This imposing tree, named Makayuk (attached to the term The Old Tree, on Google Maps), is located just 100 m below the road.

This species can measure up to 30 m, but here, it is not so much the height that impresses, but the diameter of its trunk, which requires more than 5 people to surround it. Here again, the sacred aspect is marked by garlands and flowers.

Khao Ruearab and Sabai Dog

Also spelled Khao Rea Rob, or nicknamed "Battleship Mountain", it is a rock formation a little hidden in the forest behind Ngamkho beach. In fact, I had not planned to go there, because I saw that the interest was quite limited.

However, it happened to be right next to the dog shelter. Sabai Dog", run by a Lithuanian couple and which Jitima obviously wanted to visit. By the way, if you are a dog lover, do not hesitate to drop by and see them.

They manage to take in as many stray dogs as possible, caring for them, getting them back on their feet, managing adoptions (they look after many of them themselves!) in order to give them a more decent life and also control the population on the island.

We had gone there on the first day, when we were focusing on the central area of ​​the island, starting with the main waterfall and then Khlong Chao beach before going down to Ngamkho which we were not visiting that day, to go directly to Sabai Dog. We stayed there for a good hour chatting before realizing that it was already 14pm. They then offered to take us to a restaurant they recommend to eat together.

I thought we were going to move quickly in the area and finally we found ourselves going up the island 6 km further up, to the height of Ao Tapao. It was a good little cheap Thai restaurant, whose name I unfortunately did not remember, but it was opposite the hospital. Back at Sabai Dog, that's where they offered us to take a walk with the dogs to this famous rock formation of Khao Ruearab.

It was 600 m from Sabai Dog, and from the parking lot, it was still a hundred meters to walk to reach the local curiosity, because, as such, it is a naval memorial. Curiosity, because yes, we are on an island, but finding such a monument a few kilometers inland is not common.

The reason being that in the imagination of the locals, the rocks on which the statue of the Prince of Chumphon is placed resemble the bow of a battleship. Sometimes called the "Prince Chumphon Veterans Memorial Shrine", it is therefore dedicated to the one who is considered the founder and "father" of the Thai Navy, Admiral Prince Abhakara Kiartivongse, Prince of Chumphon, who was the 28th child of King Chulalongkorn (Rama V).

For a long time, there was only a simple dirt road to access it. Given how easy it is now, nothing prevents you from taking a look, like us, and saying hello to the dogs of Sabai Dog as you go.

Note that if you feel like an adventurer, you can take a 1,5 km walk through the jungle on a marked trail around the sanctuary.

Discovery of fishing villages and local communities

There are two main fishing communities, one at the northern arrival village of Ao Salad, and the other, Ao Yai, isolated on the east coast in the south of the island. Khlong Mad is a village further north as well, but has converted to tourism.

Ao Salad

When you arrive on the island, you can't miss it, the "Big Buddha" is watching over you. The large golden statue, placed on a concrete structure that seems to have never been finished, is the centerpiece of the Ao Salad temple (with the ultra-researched name, Wat Ao Salat). Obviously it is not a temple with crazy architecture, but the countryside atmosphere is there and above all, the interest lies in its bell tower. It is indeed possible to access the top of the height, to benefit from a breathtaking view of the temple and the seafront.

The temple which turns out to be basically the only structure in the village built on land. The rest of the village is essentially composed of a row of houses on stilts, which nevertheless extend over more than 400 m along the shore.

A concrete path on stilts allows you to move between the houses, most of them quite basic, still made of wood and with tin roofs. At the time we were there, it was quite quiet, most of the small fishing boats were at anchor. The inhabitants we passed were sometimes untangling the nets, drying the day's catch or simply enjoying a small meal.

A very local atmosphere, quite nice for taking pictures. Between the visit to the temple and the village itself, we spent about 45 minutes there. Note that there are homestays, and the possibility of taking sea excursions with fishing boats.

Khlong Mad

We went there for the first time when we were visiting the north of the island (after Ao Salad, and a trip to Khlong Han Beach, then Khlong Yai Kee and its waterfall). Originally, it was also a fishing community, but it has since become a small marina.

This is where day trips for fishing or sea discovery depart, especially because of its proximity to the snorkeling site, which is located next to the small island of Ko Raet, 2 km away. It remains cute, especially since the view from the pontoon and the small beach next door adds charm to the place. The houses are arranged in a circle and are mostly on stilts, a little more opulent than in Ao Salad or Ao Yai, but it remains very local.

You will find some accommodation places there like the excellent Baan Rabieng Talay Homestay or Klongmad Hostel Kohkood, which has (had, not sure according to Google Maps) a nice little cafe too, the Weeraya Café (if you know its status, feel free to share in the comments!)

Finally, you also have a few cheap restaurants (including one offering seafood, of course) and the small supermarket that goes well, in short, everything you need to not feel isolated. Since on our first visit, it was still a bit sad (the gray sky is terrible for ruining a photo), I wanted to go back there and it makes the place much warmer and more welcoming!

Ao Yai

Another fishing village, this one is isolated and is the only visible attraction on the east coast. To give an idea of ​​the distance, there are 15 km between Khlong Mad and the village of Ao Yai, although in our case, we did not visit them both in a row or on the same day.

We went to Ao Yai on the 3rd day, then dedicated to visits to the southern part of the island (including the beaches of Ao Phrao, Ao Jak and Khlong Hin). Before arriving at the village, don't miss the viewpoint on the left (simply marked Scenic Lookout on Google Maps).

When I arrived, I witnessed a funny scene, when I saw a piece of rock in the middle of the water, with a spirit house on it, and 3 dogs sitting quietly around it, the photo below will be more telling.

Viewpoint over Ao Yai just before arriving.

The funny scene of the day.

As such, the village is similar to Ao Salad, in that it is also built on stilts, with houses spread out along the waterfront. The village is, however, a little more modest in size. Ao Yai is mainly visited for its seafood restaurants, with two located at either end of the community.

There is also a small path along the sea at the very end (next to the car park and the pier) which leads to the small shrine, again dedicated to the Prince of Chumphon. The latter benefits from a more generous maintenance and basic budget than the structure at Khao Ruearab, with a beautiful view of the bay.

Basically, by chance of the calendar, we visit at the same time as Ao Salad. So, the atmosphere is comparable. We come across several people sewing or mending their nets, a few customers in the largest floating restaurant in the village, installations with fish drying and a group of children playing, one of them jumping happily into the water.

The kids were acting even more crazy while I was taking pictures of them. Curious, they even wanted to improvise being photographers for a moment. Since we were by the water and they were a bit excited, I won't hide from you that I kept the camera strap tightly attached to my wrist.

We left them for a few moments, the time to go to the end of the village. The first part of the jetty is concrete, but becomes all wood later. This gives a more rustic overall appearance to the village. We then come across other inhabitants, and the small local grocery store. Posts in the water indicate the presence of old dwellings. Arrived at the southern end, the jetty becomes concrete again on the part that returns to the mainland, where several restaurants are lined up.

In our case, we had to go back to the parking lot so we went back along the footbridge, crossing paths with the children who were asking for an impromptu photo shoot. Given their good mood, I couldn't resist giving them this little treat.

Without realizing it, we spent a good hour there in total and, satisfied, we left for the rest of our visits for the day.

Practical information

Best time to visit

To enjoy the island to the fullest, the ideal period is between November and April. In any case, the ferry service is reduced during the period from mid-May to mid-October, and it is not for nothing.

How to get to Ko Kood

I have already given all the details in my article about Ao Noi, but here's a summary. To reach Ko Kood, the easiest way is to take a bus or flight to Trat, the nearest town. From there, you can transfer to Laem Sok Pier, where ferries depart for Ko Kood.

There are 4 companies that share this cake: I saw the counters of Ko Kut Express and Boonsiri just at the end of the road, just before the pier. I'm not sure where the others are but you can buy online easily, especially Seudamgo, the newest of the companies, which use small fast catamarans.

Koh Kood Princess is the most rustic but therefore the cheapest, 375 bahts against 500 or 600 bahts one way for the others. Note that there are boats daily but only between 9:00 and 14:20, take that into account (we arrived exactly at 14:20 the day we were there! we were able to take the last one just in time because I thought there were at least some until 15:XNUMX).

I have already given all the details in my article on Ao Noi, but here is a summary. To reach Ko Kood, the easiest way is to take a bus or flight to Trat, the nearest town. From there, you can transfer to Laem Sok Pier, where ferries depart for Ko Kood.

There are 4 companies that share this cake:

• Boonsiri Ferry
• Koh Kood Princess
• Ko Kut Express
• Seudamgo.

I saw the Ko Kut Express and Boonsiri counters just down the road on the left, just before the pier. I'm not sure where the others are, but you can buy online easily, especially Seudamgo, the newest of the companies, which use small fast catamarans.

Koh Kood Princess is the most rustic, but therefore the cheapest, 375 bahts against 500 or 600 bahts one way for the others. Note that there are boats daily, but between 9:00 and 14:20, take that into account (we arrived exactly at 14:20 the day we were there! we were able to take the last one just in time because I thought there were at least some until 15:XNUMX).

Finally, some hotels have their own shuttle or can organize the transfer, inquire beforehand.

If you want to support the site, you can also book your transport via the form below:

Hosting

The secluded and privileged aspect of Ko Kood is reflected in the price of accommodation. Most beachfront hotels are at least €50-60. Off the beach, there are a few cheaper options in the €25-40 range but it is more limited. Please note that some establishments require a minimum stay of 3 nights.

As a reminder, during our stay, we were at the Ao Noi Resort, but the website, formerly managed by a Frenchman, disappeared after the covid and the establishment is not available on platforms like Agoda or Booking…

I've already given you a lot of options throughout the article, depending on each beach, but here's a summary with a few other choices depending on your budget:

Bungalows:

• Mangrove bungalow & restaurant (1500 baht / night): located on the canal in Khlong Chao as a reminder. They also have kayaks available, a nice way to get to the beach, located 5 min walk away.
• Suan Maprao Ko Kut Resort (1500 baht / night): located in the middle of coconut trees on the small road leading to Sabai Dog, therefore close to the private beach of Ngamkho.
• Baan Bua Cottage (2000 baht/night): surrounded by nature, a stone's throw from Khlong Mad.
• Walk in homestay (1200 baht/night): good option with wooden bungalows in a garden 600 meters from Ao Jark beach.
• Baan Panseng Bungalow (1200 baht / night): located in the middle of nature, on the small road leading to the Khlong Chao waterfall.
• Gumm Lonely Club (1800 baht / night): establishment run by a very welcoming Thai couple, along the canal a stone's throw from Ao Phrao beach, in the south of the island.

Small bungalows of the Walk In HomeStay among the coconut trees.

Low budget options:

• Pink Kangaroo Bungalows (950 baht / night): family atmosphere for these bungalows which are really cheap for the island, also on the road not far from Sabai Dog.
• Kuba Bungalows (950 baht / night): located on the road not far from Bang Boa beach. Great welcome and bungalows in a charming setting with garden.
• Ao Salat View Koh Kood (700 baht / night): really cheap, it's a small resort with bungalows overlooking the bay of Ao Salat, in the north of the island, there is even the little luxury of having a swimming pool.

More luxurious resort:

• Rest Sea Resort Koh Kood (2400 baht / night): a little isolated in the far south but overlooks the beautiful beach of Ao Phrao and is among the best value for money on the island.
• Dusita Koh Kood (3000 baht / night): very beautiful setting for this hotel with private beach (Ngamkho).
• The Beach Natural Resort Koh Kood (4800 baht / night): cozy bungalows on Bang Bao beach, with the possibility of also having villas with swimming pool (11000 baht all the same).
• Tinkerbell Resort (7800 baht / night): a reference on the island, overlooking the main beach of Khlong Chao.

Rest Sea Resort Koh Kood on Ao Phrao Beach.

Walking on the island

Unfortunately, on this kind of island, the scooter is king. Unfortunately, because I remind you that you must have your motorcycle license A (not just A1) + international license, but I suspect that this is not within everyone's reach. Accidents are certainly more limited on an island like Ko Kood, where there is almost no traffic, but I do not encourage anyone to rent without being in compliance.

I invite you to read this my article about driving in Thailand.

So you will need a scooter if you really want to enjoy the island. The island is too big and hilly to walk around and public taxis usually only take people for day trips.

The bikes are mostly 125cc Hondas or Yamahas. Expect to pay between 3 and 250 baht for 400 hours, depending on the age and condition of the bike. As a side note, it is best to buy fuel at the gas station just north of the hospital. It is cheaper to fill up there than to buy the bottles you will see on the roadside stalls.

Other general information

Cash is king: you have a total of 3 ATMs (cash machines) on the island, it's better than nothing, but limited, especially since there is no guarantee that they will be usable. There is only one bank, near the main area with the hospital, but I wouldn't necessarily count on it to exchange money. Some resorts allow you to exchange money but the rate will be bad so, in summary, bring cash before coming, to have enough to get by on the island...

Internet access: These days, it’s rare to find accommodations that don’t offer free Wi-Fi to their guests. However, the speeds aren’t necessarily the same as in more developed areas of Thailand. In fact, you’ll sometimes find that it’s faster to use your phone’s mobile data if you have a local SIM card. Additionally, 4G coverage is widespread across the island and the main beaches now have 5G coverage, with True Move and AIS being the best mobile operators on Ko Kood.

Restaurants: you will find a wide choice of restaurants and cafes. If we go by the ratings, many have a very good reputation. There will also be something for everyone because there is of course Thai cuisine, including regional (like Issan), but also international if you ever want to take a break (until recently there was even a good French bistro with good plates of charcuterie and cheese, but apparently it has closed...).

We of course had the opportunity to test several like the one at Bann Makok, or the Walk In, but we were quite limited during our visit since a large number were closed. Among the references, there is the Relax House And Restaurant, in the south of the island, the Monkey Garden, close to Bang Bao, or even the Happy time, halfway between Relax and Monkey Garden. We didn't find any good coffee, due to lack of choice there too, but you will also find several on the island if, like me, a little coffee break would do you good.

Electricity : This can almost be considered trivial, but Ko Kood is now connected to the mainland on the national grid, so has 24-hour power. It should be noted that until 24, the island was, like its neighbor Ko Mak, still dependent on two large generators to provide all the inhabitants with electricity. Suffice to say that power cuts were frequent.

health: I have mentioned this several times but there is indeed a small hospital on Koh Kood. It is located on the main road near Ao Tapao beach. It is well equipped and the resident nurses and doctors can handle most common ailments and injuries. In case of emergency or critical situation, a transfer by plane or boat to facilities such as Bangkok Hospital in Trat or Chanthaburi can be arranged. This service is very expensive so it is advisable to subscribe good travel/health insurance.

There is also a good local pharmacy, simply called Koh Kood Pharmacy, about 1 km south of the hospital. It is well stocked and can also order specific medications if you contact them in advance.

My opinion on Ko Kood

This is definitely one of my favorites in Thailand and in terms of an island, it suits me very well! Some will find it too quiet, lacking in activity and things to do, but Ko Kood represents for me a perfect balance between dream beaches and lush nature, without the crowds, but without falling into the Robinson Crusoe side either.

I really enjoyed traveling the entire island, from north to south, taking practically every possible road and track, discovering the local and peaceful life of its 2 inhabitants, most of whom still live in wooden dwellings that blend in beautifully with the scenery.

All I hope is that this preserved aspect continues, even if I am aware that simply talking about it could indirectly lead to making it more known. But I remain in the general idea that most people will continue tirelessly to visit the classics, further south, and that Ko Kood will remain more of a favorite place for Thais on weekends or informed tourists.