Tour of Phi Phi Ley and Phi Phi Don bays, with a stop at Bamboo Island, for a day trip in a private longtail boat.
Phi Phi is one of those destinations that many dream of seeing… and that some later regret. While discovering Phi Phi in a day remains one of the most popular excursions in southern Thailand, the gap between the postcard images and the reality on the ground—overcrowding, standardized tours—can quickly turn the experience into a disappointment.
A quick glance at the reviews left by some visitors reveals the gap between the image of Maya Bay and the actual experience. Many describe the visit as overly structured, noisy, with no opportunity for swimming, and an impression of a prescribed route that leaves little room for enjoyment.
This day trip in a private long-tail boat around Phi Phi Ley and Phi Phi Don mainly serves to illustrate what this type of excursion offers, and the points to know to get the most out of it today.
1. Why choose a private longtail boat
In Phi Phi, the format of the tour is almost as important as the places themselves. Most day trips follow a standard itinerary, with set times and timed stops, within groups often described as "small," but which in practice include around ten people—sometimes many more. The result: you see a lot, but rarely in good conditions.
Opt for a private longtail boat It primarily allows you to regain control over the rhythm of your day. It's not a guarantee of absolute tranquility, but a way to limit certain frustrations.
- More flexible hours
Being able to leave earlier, linger at a spot or on the contrary shorten a stop makes a real difference, especially for highly regulated sites like Maya Bay. - Access to less frequented coves
The long-tail allows you to travel along the coast, stop in secondary bays and enjoy areas that group tours fly over quickly or simply cannot access. - Adjustable breaks according to your needs
Swimming, snorkeling, a simple photo stop or continuous navigation: the program remains flexible, without depending on the pace of a group. - A cost that should be put into perspective
For two or three people, the price of a private boat often becomes reasonable considering the comfort and freedom gained, especially compared to standardized excursions.
This choice allows you to approach the archipelago in a more fluid and coherent way, focusing on navigation and landscapes rather than the forced succession of stops, and that makes all the difference.
2. Today's Itinerary
Certainly, leaving very early can avoid some of the crowds, but there's no need to get up at the crack of dawn to enjoy the place: for our part, we left at 8 a.m. from the main dock.
Our boatman was waiting for us as agreed at the meeting point in the village, near the departure dock. We then boarded his longtail boat, lined up among the many others along Tonsai beach.
➜ Phi Phi Ley: cliffs, lagoons and iconic site
After a short half-hour of sailing, we arrived near Phi Phi Leh and passed by the first "attraction" of the island, systematically included in the tours: the so-called Viking cave.
Viking Cave
The cave is exploited for harvesting swallows' nests, used in bird's nest soup, a limited but economically valuable local activity. While access to the interior is prohibited, the Viking Cave remains a frequent stop on boat tours, both for its history and to observe, from the outside, the structures that attest to this still-active industry.
From its local name, Tham Phraya NakThe Viking Cave owes its nickname to the paintings visible on its walls, depicting ships passing through these turquoise waters, while sailors took shelter in these natural cavities carved out by wave erosion.
While most resemble junks belonging to ancient Chinese merchants, some also bring to mind Viking longships, hence the name. For those curious, I found a photo of the inside of this cave with the painting here.
Pi Leh Bay
A few minutes later, we entered Pi Leh Bay (sometimes spelled all together Pileh), this famous lagoon nestled between steep cliffs.
It's a detail we don't necessarily think about: we often tend to want to leave very early to arrive "before everyone else." While this can work in terms of visitor numbers, the visual effect isn't always optimal, as some bays remain in shadow for a long time depending on their orientation.
This was the case for us when we arrived at Pi Leh: certainly empty of people, but still largely in shadow, the high cliffs preventing the sun from fully illuminating the water at that time. The result was therefore a little duller, although this obviously doesn't detract from the beauty of the place — but well, that's the photographer in me talking.
We took the opportunity to stop for a swim in these shallow waters and appreciate the relative calm of the place, before hitting the road again about thirty minutes later towards Maya Bay.
Maya Bay
It was shortly after the sun made a still timid appearance above the cliffs that we left the Pi Leh lagoon. It then only took a few minutes to reach the back of Maya Bay beach.
It always feels strange to think that I knew a time when this access, now well developed, already existed, but as a simple alternative to the landing which was then done directly on the beach, facing the bay.
Back then, there was only a simple net to climb on the rock face, giving it a bit of an adventurous, pirate feel, like landing on a secret island. Nowadays, you arrive via a floating pontoon, followed by a permanent staircase and a paved path leading, at the back, to the counter where you pay for your national park entrance ticket.
All that remains is to follow the winding path through this lost jungle before seeing the appearance THE beach, the one that made entire generations fantasize following the success of the eponymous film released in 2000.
When I arrive, I'm lucky enough to only encounter one other couple, already eager to take their Instagram photos. I then reminisce about the few strokes I used to swim here, some time ago, whereas today Swimming is prohibited there In order to protect the seabed, only knee-deep water is permitted; beyond that, you will be quickly reminded of the rules.
So, we mainly travel along the beach, which inevitably changes the way we discover the site, even if the effect wow is still very much present for me.
The advantage of letting nature breathe is that the bay, once constantly churned by the blades of numerous landing boats, now displays clear emerald green water, with a calm much more conducive to contemplation in the face of this type of scenery.
While many were busy with photo shoots, sometimes in seemingly endless poses, I took the opportunity to walk to the far end of the beach, still in the shade at that hour. It was there, at the foot of the cliff, that I caught a fleeting glimpse of a few blacktip reef sharks, which had since returned to reclaim this shallow lagoon.
Time flies in such an environment, and after about thirty minutes there, it's already time to head back to our boat, just as the beach is starting to fill up. However, the exploration of Maya Bay doesn't end there: even without going back to the beach, tours usually include a stop offshore, at the entrance to the bay.
For those who wish, a delimited area on the side of the small beach of Loh Samah, nestled discreetly in a corner of the bay, also allows swimming, away from the passage of boats and far enough from the main beach of Maya Bay in order to limit the impact on the fragile reef.
In our case, we were content with a quick glance without getting wet, keeping our distance, before continuing the excursion and leaving Phi Phi Leh to return towards Phi Phi Don.
➜ Phi Phi Don: bays, beaches and snorkeling
Wang Long Bay
It took about twenty minutes to sail back along the sides of the main island. In the middle of the imposing cliff that occupies the entire western face of Ko Phi Phi, we then plunged between high sections of rock covered with vegetation at their summit.
It really gives the impression of arriving in a lost world. Apart from us, we only come across two other boats in the area when we find ourselves facing the small beach, surrounded by cliffs.
A small hut, accessible by a rudimentary ladder from the beach, is visible. This structure is thought to be related to the harvesting of swallow nests, similar to Viking Cave, but on a much smaller scale. This shelter serves as a temporary workstation for the collectors and is also used for storing equipment.
With the current restrictions, I don't know if it's still possible to picnic here, as some older photos might have suggested. In any case, it wasn't the right time nor in our plans: after taking a few photos, we hit the road again towards the next stop, Monkey Beach.
Monkey Beach
After Maya Bay, this is undoubtedly the most famous beach on Ko Phi Phi, systematically included in day tours. I don't need to explain the origin of its name: the archipelago is home to a colony of crab-eating macaques, and this beach sometimes serves as their playground.
For my part, I've already had ample opportunity to observe our distant cousins in action, but for those who have never seen them, it's best not to be too disappointed if they aren't here. Of course, no one can predict whether or not they'll be present in this location.
While it's common to see them on Monkey Beach—hence the name—they are still wild animals, free to roam. Therefore, there's no guarantee you'll see any during your visit.
It's a little frustrating to leave Monkey Beach without having seen any monkeys, but that's nature at work. On the day of our visit, in fact, there wasn't a single monkey in sight. Personally, it doesn't bother me that much: the unpredictable and thieving nature of these animals, accustomed to human presence, doesn't always reassure me.
At least this gave us plenty of time to appreciate the beauty of this secluded beach, accessible only by boat. In the background, offshore, we could see a rocky outcrop that forms part of the northeastern coast of Ko Phi Phi, towards which we would later head.
Monkey Beach is lined with trees — which also explains why it is so popular with monkeys — and, practically speaking, it offers welcome shaded areas to relax without getting sunburned.
Nui Beach
To reach our next stop for the day, we sail past the bay north of Phi Phi Don, where we catch sight of Loh Dalum beach. Clearly visible is the Phi Phi Rim Khao Hotel, a problematic establishment on the island, built on the small hill between the two bays.
This hotel has never been authorized to open since its construction, its location having been deemed too unstable and risky according to urban planning and safety regulations. It's a shame its construction wasn't prevented from the start, rather than letting this eyesore spoil the view. Three years after our visit, the hotel is still unoccupied.
As you approach Nui Beach, you'll encounter a few kayakers enjoying the surroundings at their own pace—powered by their own strength. The layout is more open than at Wang Long Bay, but you'll once again find yourself facing a beach nestled between cliffs covered in vegetation.
The scenery is more rugged, almost wild, with a sense of isolation reinforced by the absence of visible infrastructure. I almost feel like dinosaurs might appear at any moment from behind this wonderfully exotic vegetation. Opposite, the rocky islets seem to want to conceal the existence of this little haven of peace, further accentuating the secluded nature of the beach.
With few boats at anchor when we passed by, the stop was perfect for a quiet swim or simply enjoying the site, with no other expectation than to savor the place.
This blend of light sand, slabbed rocks, and turquoise water gives Nui Beach a very special atmosphere. Less exposed than the other stops of the day, it truly feels like a secluded, almost private place.
This is a far cry from the hustle and bustle often associated with Ko Phi Phi, and this secluded, more intimate, and unspoiled beach gave me a real sense of privilege. Let's be honest, it was love at first sight for me and one of the highlights of the day so far, a wonderful discovery of a place I didn't know existed.
Loh Lana Bay
It is shortly after noon when we leave the scenery of Nui Beach and resume sailing towards our next stop. A few minutes are enough to bring us to Loh Lana Bay, a bay approximately 400 m wide which, despite its size, remains surprisingly undeveloped.
From the sea, the remains of the single resort that once occupied the entire area behind the beach are indistinguishable. It's difficult to say for certain whether the complex was abandoned following the 2004 tsunami, but the site has clearly never been rehabilitated since, judging by satellite imagery.
Along the western shore of the bay, one can make out a series of small cabins on stilts, clustered close to the water. From what can be seen at this distance, these are not simply temporary shelters but modest homes linked to local life and fishing, nestled at the foot of the dense vegetation that climbs towards the hills surrounding the bay.
It was with a truly magnificent view of the entire bay that we dropped anchor for a little impromptu swim, completely alone in the area, enjoying this stretch of calm and uncrowded water.
From our anchorage, however, we can clearly see a visible trace of Phi Phi's tourist activity. Overlooking the neighboring slope, we can make out a few villas of the Phi Phi Holiday Resortadjoining the Sunset Restaurant and Barreminding us that this feeling of isolation is only relative. We'll enjoy this stop for about thirty minutes before setting sail again.
➜ Bamboo Island (Ko Mai Phai)
To reach our last stop of the day, we passed by a small intermediate island — which I had never noticed before — Ko Yung. It stretches for almost a kilometer, with several beaches visible on its eastern side, which we were passing by boat.
We didn't stop there because it would have added about an hour to the visit, and therefore the corresponding budget. Nicknamed "Mosquito Island" (its Thai name), Ko Yung is nevertheless renowned for its seabed, easily accessible by snorkeling.
When you arrive on Ko Mai Phai, aka Bamboo Island, the view is quite worthy of the Caribbean. The fine, very light sand contrasts beautifully with the lovely blue sky we had that day, and the translucent water completes this idyllic picture… yes, I'm repeating myself a bit, but even I, who am not usually very much of a "beach" person, am won over!
It's a small detail, but even the fact of disembarking without any artifice, stepping directly off the boat with the warm tropical water up to your knees, makes the experience even more enjoyable.
However, I immediately notice a change on the island, because in my memory, the forest visible on the beach, where we had lunch during our previous stay here, seemed much more present… It almost gives a “desert” feel, while the entire northern tip is now devoid of vegetation.
In fact, it's mainly the work of erosion. Looking out of curiosity on Google Earth Pro, I quickly understood that it's not the forest that has disappeared, but rather the coastline that has receded, clearly transforming the shape of the island, particularly on its eastern side.
Two satellite images taken about ten years apart are enough to realize this.
Before
AfterSmall aside: Unlike our previous visits here, eating is no longer permitted on Bamboo Island, a measure put in place to limit waste and preserve the site.
We got caught out: I was under the impression that day trips on the island included a lunch break as part of the itinerary. However, our timing meant we arrived right at lunchtime. Once there, the rules are strictly enforced, and they even check the national park tickets.
So we ate quickly and discreetly, off to the side, making sure of course to take all our rubbish with us—but this is clearly not something to be taken as an example or a habit. If you're planning a similar excursion today, the easiest thing to do is to plan ahead and have lunch before you arrive.
After this brief moment of embarrassment, it was time to explore the island a little, which essentially amounts to a stroll along its northern coast.
The view is particularly clear and the islands and islets that line the coasts of Krabi are very clearly visible. In the direction from which we landed, Ko Jum is visible in the distance, while due north, Ko Poda is clearly visible and, beyond it, the mainland, although located more than 20 km away.
Reaching the end of the beach, we pass a group of tourists sunbathing in the shade of the trees that cover the island and spill onto the beach at this point.
We then cross a slightly rocky area, which connects to another beach, arriving at the corner of the western facade. From there, we have a view of Ko Yung, the island we previously passed by boat.
We lingered for a while, taking photos and enjoying the peace and quiet, while only one other couple had made the same choice as us by coming to explore the area. Bamboo Island was the highlight of the day, a perfect way to end this wonderful day.
But as all good things must come to an end, it was time to return to our boat. In total, we still managed to spend an hour in this little corner of paradise.
We then had about thirty minutes to enjoy the seascapes before reaching Phi Phi Don, passing a local fishing boat, also returning home.
3. Practical information
Actual duration of the outing
Unlike many excursions sold as "day trips," the time spent on the water can vary greatly depending on the chosen package, but generally revolves around 5 room.
In our case, the departure took place at 8h from Phi Phi Don, with a return to 15 hours 15/XNUMX To be precise. A full day of 7 hours — a far cry from the compressed half-day tours. This longer format, besides allowing you to see more, lets you visit sites at your own pace and adjust your rhythm throughout the day.
Price (rough estimate)
On our outing, the price was 4 000 THB for the boat. It was based on a formula of 6 hours at 3,500 THBto which we had added An additional hour will be charged at 500 THB.
Note that the prices have increased sinceThe equivalent formula is currently displayed around 4,500 THB for 6 hourswhich would bring the output to a similar value of approximately 5 000 THB for a day of the same duration.
The price will depend on the number of people, the season, and the duration agreed upon with the boatman if you book directly on site. As a guide, a trip in private long-tail A half-day typically falls within a range of 2,500 to 4,000 THB for the boat.
To get back to our case, there were two of us, and the cost remains reasonable considering the time spent and the flexibility offered, especially compared to classic organized tours.
Operator used : we went through Longtail Boat Phi Phiwhich I had booked in advance. Communication was simple, the timing was respected, and the actual duration corresponded well to what had been agreed.
Best departure time
Leaving early allows you to avoid some of the crowds at the most popular spots, especially Maya Bay. You might think everyone will have the "same idea," but Ko Phi Phi is quite a party island, so many people linger in the morning, leaving plenty of room for early birds.
However, as mentioned above, leaving too early doesn't always guarantee the best viewing conditions. Generally, leaving between 7:30 p.m. and 8 p.m. constitutes a good compromise: early enough to limit the crowds, while still allowing the sun time to properly illuminate the recessed bays.
Calm sea and season
Sea conditions greatly influence the comfort of the outing. During the dry season (approximately November to April), the sea is generally calmer around Phi Phi, making sailing more pleasant, especially in a long-tail boat.
During the rainy season, snorkeling trips are still possible, but you must accept that the sea may be rougher and visibility reduced. The website specifies that the itineraries are adapted during this period (May to October), with exploration primarily focused on the eastern part of Phi Phi Don, including, for example, Loh Moo Dee, Loh Ba Kao, or Laem Tong, depending on weather and sea conditions.
With or without snorkeling
Most excursions include one or more stops for swimming or snorkeling, with equipment provided. The experience varies depending on sea conditions and the sites visited, but some spots like Bamboo Island or the waters around Phi Phi Don are well-suited for snorkeling in calm seas.
Note that everything is à la carte: you are free to prioritize swimming, exploration or simply observation from the boat.
Long-tail or speedboat?
Le speedboat allows you to cover more distance in less time, but at the cost of a faster pace, larger groups and an often noisier experience — a bit like the cattle truck format.
Le private long-tailSlower but more flexible, it offers a more progressive approach to the sites, adjustable stops and a much more pleasant "à la carte" exit feeling for this type of route.
In my case, the answer is clearly positive. This day in a private long-tail boat around Phi Phi Leh, Phi Phi Don and Bamboo Island allowed me to (re)discover the archipelago in very good conditions, without rushing and with real freedom in the process.
Of course, let's be honest: Phi Phi hasn't been a secret destination for a long time, and some sites like Maya Bay are now heavily regulated and sometimes overloadedTherefore, one must approach it with full awareness of this reality and do everything possible to obtain the best possible conditions.
Because when well organized, the excursion remains a memorable experience. As part of a well-planned private boat tour, by accepting current constraints and adjusting one's expectations, the day remains very beautiful — especially for the seascapes around Phi Phi Leh and Bamboo Island.
I therefore recommend this outing if:
- you opt for a private long-tail,
- you adapt the schedule to avoid peak visitor numbers,
- You accept that some places are regulated and possibly crowded.
- and that you are primarily looking to enjoy the landscapes, lagoons and beaches rather than ticking off everything in a chain.
Conversely, if the idea is to follow a standard grouped tourWith timed stops, large groups and little room for maneuver, the experience is likely to be much less pleasant — and sometimes frustrating.
In short, Phi Phi remains spectacular, but it's not a destination to be discovered by chance. The difference lies not so much in the places themselves as in how you approach them. With careful planning, this day trip can still create wonderful memories.
