Mae Salong: a little piece of China in the heart of the Thai mountains

Mae Salong, this is a name that may not mean much, even to those who travel regularly to Thailand. And if you are planning your first trip, it is unlikely to be on your itinerary. However, perched in the mountains of the north, a stone's throw from the Burmese border (only 8 km as the crow flies), this little piece of China in Thailand deserves to be explored.

Officially, the city is called Santikhiri, but almost no one calls it that. It is Mae Salong, named after the mountain that shelters it, which has remained in use. With its architecture, its atmosphere and its omnipresent Chinese culture, the place gives the impression of a trip to another country, without leaving Thailand.

Open to tourism only since 1994, the area was once a hub for opium trafficking. Despite some visible changes since my first visit in 2010 – a few boutique hotels and even a 7/11 (unthinkable at the time!), where there were previously only a few guesthouses – Mae Salong has managed to preserve its identity. The soul of this small town with the air of China, she, remained intact.

1. Mae Salong and the “forgotten” army: the legacy of exile

Mae Salong is often referred to as a Chinese community, but in reality it is a real army in exile. Most of the families settled here are descendants of soldiers from the Kuomintang (KMT), the Chinese Nationalist army that fought Mao Zedong's communist forces during the Chinese Civil War in the late 1940s.

After their defeat in 1949, much of the KMT fled to Taiwan (that we ended up visiting), But two regiments of the 93rd division refused to lay down their arms. Pushed back towards the Yunnan, in southwest China, these soldiers eventually found refuge in the jungle of Shan State, Burma.

The Burmese government, not wanting a foreign army on its territory, quickly expelled them. Thus, in early 1960s, these soldiers found refuge in the mountains of Mae Salong, under the command of General Tuan Shi-wen, whose tomb can be visited today in the city.

Seeing them as a strategic asset in the face of the rise of communism in the region, the thai government offered them citizenship in exchange for their military services. Their main mission was to counter communist influence, both in Thailand and among their Burmese neighbors.

Thus, Mae Salong has practically remained a Chinese enclave, very different from the rest of the country. During my first stay, most of the elders did not speak a word of Thai and the many signs exclusively in ideograms immersed us in a Yunnanese universe.

2. Some visits to make in Mae Salong

Like many places in Thailand, Mae Salong has inherited a nickname: the "Little Switzerland". Yet, let's be honest, this is not really what comes to mind when arriving here. With its architecture, its signs in Chinese and its typically Yunnanese atmosphere, it feels much more like a village in southern China than in an alpine resort.

Anyway ... " town ", not quite. Even if it gives that impression, Mae Salong is indeed a city, with about 3 000 people. Its atmosphere is unique, standing out from the rest of Thailand.

When I first came, I noticed as I passed an open classroom that the classes were given in Chinese. In fact, the oldest people here often only speak their original dialect, which came straight from Yunnan.

Generally, Mae Salong is a peaceful town, a little removed from the world. It does not have the charm of the old towns of yesteryear, but it has an atmosphere all its own. For that alone, it is worth at least a stroll, if only to wander between its houses, admire its markets and soak up its very special atmosphere.

2.1 Mae Salong Markets

And let's talk about markets. In Mae Salong, you will find some two main. The first one is unmissable due to its location: it runs along the main road, at the entrance to the city if you arrive by the 1089 route.

Open all day, it brings together a mixture of brick-and-mortar stores, lined up along the road, and small temporary shops held by members of local ethnic groups, including the Akha. A good place to stroll and observe local life.

The second market is located in a small street, right next to the Shin Sane Guesthouse. Unlike the first one, this one is First of all a morning market, where you come across a few vendors from the surrounding villages who come to offer their fresh produce. It also has a covered section with permanent stalls, surrounded by classic shops which remain open during the day until 17 p.m.

And when I say "morning", it means At daybreak the place comes to life. The market is mainly active between 5am and 8am. If you really want to feel the local atmosphere, this is the time to be there.

2.2 The 93rd Division Memorials

Beyond the many Chinese tombs and small cemeteries scattered around Mae Salong, you will find two memorial sites that stand out, General Tuan's Tomband 93rd Division Memorial.

The Tomb of General Tuan

Spotted on Google Maps under the name สุสานนายพลต้วนThis discreet tomb is located on a hill, shortly after the entrance to the town and its market.

The site itself is nothing spectacular, but it remains the resting place of a key figure in the history of Mae Salong. Its location, at the foot of a small tea plantation and surrounded by vegetation, gives it a peaceful atmosphere. From up there, you can also enjoy from a partial view of the city.

The 93rd Division Memorial

Less than a kilometer from the market, slightly below, is the 93rd Division Memorial, much more imposing. Built in a resolutely Chinese style, it is distinguished from the entrance by a large golden sculpture, representing a hand holding what looks like a lotus flower.

As we move forward, we take a driveway lined with well-kept gardens, leading to the main courtyard. There, under a large building with curved roof, is located the main hall of the memorial, with an altar surrounded by wooden plaques, where the names of the soldiers who belonged to the 93rd Division are probably inscribed.

On the sides you have two adjoining rooms. You can see Photos tracing the beginnings of Mae Salong, as well as what appears to be a meeting room or administrative office. The whole is well preserved and above all access is free, so you might as well take advantage of it if you're passing through the area.

2.3 Wat Santi Khiri and its viewpoint

Perched at 1 meters above sea level, above Mae Salong, the Wat Santi Khiri dominates the city. It consists of two distinct parts.
The first includes the monks' living quarters, a prayer room, and a little further away, a little ubosot accessible by a staircase lined with nagas. Its architecture remains classic, and honestly, if you are already used to Buddhist temples, it does not present not a big interest.

Moreover, to my knowledge, this is the only Buddhist temple in Mae Salong itself. But the real point of interest of the site is higher up the mountain.

For the most motivated, a staircase allows access on foot, behind the ubosot. Otherwise, a road goes around the hill and leads directly to the summit. Up there, we find two separate buildings :

• The Phra Borommathat Chedi, large modern chedi square base, top of 30 meters. Built in honor of the Princess Mother Srinagarindra, it was completed in 1996. Its interior is sober, but it has some particularities, such as stained glass windows adorning its windows and a statue of the princess (grandmother of the current sovereign).
• In front of him, a other building takes up certain elements ofLanna architecture, although its style is resolutely modern.

From the chedi platform, we enjoya beautiful panoramic view on Mae Salong and the surrounding mountains, an excellent spot to admire the landscapes of the region.

2.4 Tea plantations

You are right here Golden Triangle, a region once infamous for its opium trade. Today, that trade is a thing of the past, and a whole different culture flourishes in these mountains.

Mae Salong is now famous for its tea plantations, which cover the sides of the surrounding hills. With an altitude between 1 and 200 meters and particularly suitable soils, the region offers ideal conditions for growing tea. Here, we mainly produce oolong tea, a high quality Chinese tea whose name means "black dragon" in mandarin.

Tea plantations to visit

The two most famous producers are 101 Tea Plantation et Wang Put Tan.

• 101 Tea Plantation : located at 5 km from the center, it is the most important and best known, largely because it is easily accessible from the main road leading to Mae Salong, coming from Doi Tung.
• Wang Put Tan : plantation closest to the city, but on my last visit it seemed a bit abandoned. Since then, a hotel has been built there and it seems that the site is gradually regaining a new dynamic.

101 Tea Plantation

Access is easy, with a parking right next to the factory (which, unfortunately, cannot be visited). There is a row of shops offering a wide choice of teas, which can be taste on site.

Its strong point? A panoramic view of the mountains, with impeccably maintained tea plantations at the foot of the shops.

Wang Put Tan

The entrance to Wang Put Tan Tea Plantation is easily recognizable, with two giant chinese lions guarding the entrance. Just after, a giant teapot, a vestige of an old tasting shop (at least, I imagine?), marks the beginning of the site.

Unlike 101, their packing plant is not located next to the plantation, but across from the boutique hotel of the same name. In principle, it does not appear to be open to the public.

However, being curious, I asked the workers present for permission to enter, which allowed me to see again the different stages of tea making, a process identical to what I had already observed in the Nuwara Eliya plantations, in Sri Lanka, which basically boils down to various processes of drying the leaves.

Interior of Wang Put Tan's packaging plant.

If you like tea, Mae Salong is a must-see destination. Between the plantations, tea rooms and shops, you will be spoiled for choice… besides, there are probably more tea shops here than there are restaurants proper !

3. Explore the surroundings of Mae Salong

Even though it is possible to rent a songthaew for the day to explore Mae Salong and its surroundings, the best thing to do is to be transported for more freedom.

Depending on your itinerary, you may make some interesting stops along the way, whether it is to admire a point of view, to visit a local temple or simply enjoy the scenery.

If you arrive from Doi Tung, a beautiful viewpoint is located just after the crossroads between route 1130 and 4052 (the latter leads to the Doi Hua Mae Kham, which I discuss below).

At this point, on the other side of the road, another panoramic view opens up to you, accompanied by a small football field and traditional Akha swings and a small coffee has recently opened here, offering a pleasant stop for a coffee break or snack.

Regarding the local temple, the Wat Phra That Santitham, it is visible when going up towards Mae Salong by a secondary road connecting the 1089. Impossible to miss: it is literally right next to the road, which then joins the main road leading to Mae Salong. You can actually see it from the town.

Its octagonal chedi is recent since it dates from 2012, which gives it a more modern architecture. Not a must-see therefore but since I was passing by, I might as well take advantage of it.

Finally, beyond the tea plantations, the region counts several ethnic villages, which can be discovered by exploring the surrounding area.

3.1 Tribal villages

Even before the arrival of this Chinese army from Yunnan, the surroundings of Mae Salong were already populated by several mountain tribes, whose origins also date back to southern China (and for some to neighboring Burma).

Among the ethnic groups visible around Mae Salong, we find the Mien (also called Yao), the more "classic" Lahu and Lisu or even the Hmong. But from my experience, what I have seen the most in this region are the Akha, known for their imposing headdress decorated with silver coins.

When I first came to Mae Salong, I went for a stroll just south of the town to one of the ethnic villages surrounding it.

Akha Baan Pa Kha Suk Jai Village.

It is possible to make a loop through the small mountain roads (see map below), passing through several villages. But before saying more, I prefer to do a little clarification : over the years, these villages evolve, and their traditional architecture tends to disappear in favor of more modern constructions.

I had touched on this subject elsewhere, but today it is becoming more and more difficult to differentiate ethnicities from one village to another, as wooden houses on stilts give way to solid houses. This is a logical evolution that improves the living conditions of the inhabitants, but it also changes the perception that one can have of an "ethnic village".

To illustrate what I'm talking about, here are two photos comparing the same house in 2010 and then in 2017 (top right):

Concretely, this loop first passes through an Akha village, Baan Pa Kha Suk Jai. On my first visit, I had the chance to meet elders in traditional dress, sitting on the terrace of their house, busy with their daily tasks.

A scene that I never saw again afterwards...

There are still a few exceptions to this evolution, such as this house where only the roof has been replaced with sheet metal, but whose original structure is still intact a few years later (2010 vs 2017 and at last count, still there today).

The next stop is in a coffee producing village, Baan Pana. I had just tried a local coffee at Pana Coffee House. Unfortunately, they practice a dark roast, where the bean is almost black.

This type of roast is supposed to give more body and robust flavors, but personally, I prefer a “medium” roast, which gives a darker bean and a more aromatic coffee.

The village has changed so much that I had trouble realizing that I had also been there with my parents more than a decade ago. It was only when I looked back at my photos that familiar details—like a small bridge I remembered—tipped me off.

To give a better idea, here is the comparison between 2010 on the left and 2024 on the right, all the thatched roofs have disappeared:

If there is at least one thing that does not change over the years, it is the welcome of the people, and especially of the children, always curious to meet foreigners, few of whom pass through these villages.

If you really want explore the region thoroughly, although it is no longer necessarily essential today, an SUV may be better. When I first came, I rented a 4x4 with my parents, which allowed me to explore more remote corners. That's how I discovered a Lahu village that is difficult to access, following an unpaved path at random.

Little anecdote : it was only six years later, after digging through the details of my photos, that I was finally able to find the exact location on Google Maps, which I annotated on my map at the end of the article as well as the entire loop possible in the day.

3.2 Doi Hua Mae Kham: A Mexican Sunflower Festival

Let's move away from Mae Salong for a while to discover the Doi Hua Mae Kham, a mountain so isolated that even Google Street View has yet to set foot there.

Located at the extreme northwest of the region, less than a kilometer from the Burmese border, this site is only 50 km from Mae Salong, but we still have to count two hours drive to get there, there are so many bends.

Its main attraction – at least, what brought me there – is the flowering of Mexican sunflowers (บัวตอง – Bua Thong) that cover the mountainside between November and early December. Incidentally, a famous spot for this is Doi Mae U Kho in Mae Hong Son province.

But we also find these vast yellow expanses in Doi Hua Mae Kham. A festival, then in full preparation, is also celebrated there on this occasion, bringing together all the surrounding tribes. Unfortunately, I arrived a day too late to attend, not knowing the exact date….

Next to the sunflower area, the locals told me to go see a small local waterfall. It is not even indicated on the map but is easily accessible. Anyway Hua Mae Kham is located on the mountainside, and therefore offers a panoramic view of the surrounding area.

I will add that the village where I stopped to admire the sunflowers is of the Lisu ethnic group, an opportunity to approach the daily life of a different tribe. And there too, the welcome and the smiles, especially from the children, were there. I was even able to try a small local restaurant that didn't look like much but fulfilled its function very well!

Out of season, coming here is still an interesting experience. The journey alone is worth the detour., provided you are not prone to motion sickness, because the bends follow one after the other. On the way, you pass through several villages, where life goes on peacefully, and you can enjoy beautiful hilly landscapes, punctuated by rice fields.

3.2 Ban Thoet: walk in the heart of the mountains

During another stay in Mae Salong, I headed towards the Choui Fong Tea Plantation. I'm not talking about the one located near the Doi tung, in the plain, but from another, from the same company, lost in the mountains, right next to the Burmese border.

It is located off the beaten track, also on the road leading to the Doi Hua Mae Kham. The problem being that at the time, I had no idea of ​​the condition of the road to get there (it's now clarified since the Google Street car went there in 2022!). So, I had abandoned the idea along the way but it's what had led me to the outskirts of the small town of Ban Thoet.

A city in the heart of the mountains

Ban Thoet is a peaceful village, nestled in the heart of the mountains, with some local attractions and temples. On the way, we already find a roadside viewpoint which, in clear weather, allowssee the chedi of Wat Santi Khiri in the distance.

At the entrance to the city, I also stumbled upon an intriguing site completely by chance. I parked in what looked like a parking lot in a courtyard that I wasn't sure was private or not. Behind it, you can see a staircase going up to a building overlooking the area.

This place is a priori referenced under the name “ Huai Phueng Shrine » on Google Maps, although poorly indicated on the other side of the road. When I parked, locals confirmed that I could go up. I'm not sure what the building near the top was for, but behind it, there are some Chinese tombs. But above all, what a privileged spot, the view of the nature surrounding Ban Thoet is breathtaking!

The temples of Ban Thoet

Also during this stay, I made a stop at Wat Phra Songchai Ratanapalangphuang, nicknamed “Temple of the Giant Bronze Buddha”. There is indeed a bronze statue there… but not so “giant” in reality!

The temple is especially notable for its gardens decorated with statues, several of which are also made of bronze. Another notable point is a massive staircase leading to the main building, on which sits the large statue of Buddha. From the top, one can enjoy a beautiful panorama of the surrounding mountains.

That day, the rain was starting to fall, and I didn't want to risk myself on wet mountain roads. So I cut my visit short and postponed exploring the area until later.

When I passed through the area again, heading to Doi Hua Mae Kham, this time I took the time to stop at the chedi of Wat Sam Tao, which dominates the town of Ban Thoet.

A vestige of the past: Khun Sa Old Camp

One of the only sites I haven't visited in the area yet is the Khun Sa Old Camp. It is the former stronghold of drug lord Khun Sa, who settled here in 1964 with his own militia, dubbed the "National Liberation Army" before being driven out of Thailand by government forces in 1982.

4. How to get to Mae Salong

Mae Salong is located in 70 km northwest of Chiang Rai and 45 km east of Thaton.

By bus or songthaew

Whatever your starting location, there is no no direct route by bus to Mae Salong. Here are the options:

• Via Mae Sai : Take a bus to Mae Sai (Platform 5 of Chiang Rai Bus Terminal) or possibly a songthaew. Go down to Pa Blood, opposite a PT station (green logo)Where road 1130 goes up towards Mae Salong. Next to the crossroads, blue songthaews are waiting to make the climb.
  → Please note: after 13:00 p.m., there is no more transport available.
• Via Mae Chan : Another possibility is to go down a little earlier, in the small town of Mae Chan. After the roundabout, you will find a stop where dark green songthaews, which then go up to Doi Mae Salong by road 1089.

Pricing : about 60 Baht per person for the songthaew ride from Pa Sang or Mae Chan if taken together. Also possible by charter from 400 Baht.

Songthaew circulating in Mae Salong.

By car

As with the songthaews, there are two main roads to reach Mae Salong by car:

1. By Pa Sang : from Chiang Rai, take the 1 route heading north (Mae Sai) to Pa Sang, then turn onto the 1130 route, which will be in this direction on your left.
2. By Mae Chan : the “main” road passes through the 1089 route, which leads to Thaton and Fang. At the crossroads with a checkpoint, take the 1130 route on your right to go up to Mae Salong.

GPS Tip : If you follow Google Maps from Chiang Rai, it will take you through the 1089, but will make you climb before reaching the 1130. it saves about 10 minutes, and that's how I discovered the road passing in front of the Wat Phra That Santitham, mentioned above.

️ Travel time : count 1h30 from Chiang Rai, same since Mae Sai, with many turns, but a superb panorama of the region!

It's good, you've arrived!

5. Where to eat and sleep in Mae Salong?

5.1 Eating in Mae Salong: Limited options, but some good places

In Mae Salong, the restaurant offering is quite limited. Many restaurants close early and offer mainly Chinese cuisine, especially noodle dishes, which limits the culinary possibilities.

Unless you have a restaurant in your hotel, you may quickly find yourself in the same situation as me… Namely, walking along the main road, you will see little light, little animation, and here, even the mastery of Thai is sometimes limited, so English even more so!

Shin Guesthouse, a reference in Mae Salong.

If you are staying at Shin Shane Guesthouse, you can go to the Xin Shi Dai Bakery. Don't be fooled by the name, which suggests that it's just a bakery: yes, it does bakery during the day, but it also offers a few dishes in the evening, including classic Thai cuisine. It's simple, good, and the welcome is great, the people who run the shop are really lovely!

Otherwise, if you go down a little further, you will arrive at the 7/11 (always handy for emergencies). Right next door, you have the CJ Coffee & Tea (ร้านซีเจ cj coffee and food ดอยแม่สลอง on Google Maps). It closes earlier than the Xin Shi Dai but offers some simple, typical and tasty dishes.

Otherwise I once tried the terrace restaurant of the My Place hotel, which I can also recommend.

5.2 Sleeping in Mae Salong: my tried and tested options

As for sleeping, besides the My Place , mentioned just above, here are my 3 choices tested to date:

- Shin Sane Guesthouse (To from 300 Baht): which prides itself on being the first guesthouse in Mae Salong (since 1970!). This was my base during my first stay, since at the time the options were more than limited. It was quite basic, as was the price and a good welcome. They have since expanded and it remains an excellent option.

- Wang Put Tan Boutique Hotel (To from 800 Baht) : more modern, this one has an undeniable charm and due to its location, a superb view from the terrace of the rooms. Unfortunately, it is a bit of a victim of its success and often full during the high season, so book in advance.

- Phumektawan Resort (To from 850 Baht) : a favorite in the region due to its excellent welcome! Here is a family that knows how to welcome! If the hotel has the appearance of a "large" resort, its operation is nonetheless family-friendly. And above all, what a view! From the platform that serves as a parking lot, where you will find the reception, you can overlook the entire mountain to the East. Its main disadvantage is that it is a little away from Mae Salong (3 km). It is therefore preferable, if not essential, to have a vehicle to stay there.

View of the Phumektawan Resort.

6. Mae Salong attractions on a map

Here is a map to help you find your way with the list of places mentioned in the article:

I will conclude by specifying that if you have a day or two of spare time between a stay in Chiang Rai and Chiang Mai, and despite its "modernization", Mae Salong is definitely worth the detour. It remains a favorite in this region, an integral part of the golden triangle, which remains less visited and calmer than around Chiang Mai.

Note that weekends can be a bit busier, especially during the winter period (November to early February) as Thais enjoy the fresh mountain air.

So, shall we embark on a little tour of “China”?

Did you like the article? share on Pinterest!