Mae Salong, this is a name that may not mean much, even to those who travel regularly to Thailand. And if you are planning your first trip, it is unlikely to be on your itinerary. However, perched in the mountains of the north, a stone's throw from the Burmese border (only 8 km as the crow flies), this little piece of China in Thailand deserves to be explored.
Officially, the town is called Santikhiri , but almost no one calls it that. Mae Salong , named after the mountain on which it sits, is the name that has stuck. With its architecture, atmosphere, and pervasive Chinese culture, the place gives the impression of traveling to another country without leaving Thailand.
Open to tourism only since 1994, the region was once a hub for the opium trade. Despite some visible changes since my first visit in 2010 – a few boutique hotels and even a 7-Eleven (unthinkable at the time!), where previously there were only a few guesthouses – Mae Salong has managed to preserve its identity. The soul of this small town, with its Chinese feel , has remained intact.
1. Mae Salong and the “forgotten” army: the legacy of exile
People often talk about a Chinese community in Mae Salong, but it is actually a veritable army in exile . Most of the families settled here are descendants of soldiers of the Kuomintang (KMT) , the Chinese nationalist army that fought Mao Zedong's communist forces during the Chinese Civil War in the late 1940s.
After their defeat in 1949, much of the KMT fled to Taiwan (that we ended up visiting), But two regiments of the 93rd division refused to lay down their arms. Pushed back towards the Yunnan, in southwest China, these soldiers eventually found refuge in the jungle of Shan State, Burma.
The Burmese government, not wanting a foreign army on its territory, quickly expelled them. Thus, in early 1960s, these soldiers found refuge in the mountains of Mae Salong, under the command of General Tuan Shi-wen, whose tomb can be visited today in the city.
Seeing them as a strategic asset against the rise of communism in the region, the Thai government offered them citizenship in exchange for their military service. Their main mission was to counter communist influence , both in Thailand and in neighboring Burma.
Thus, Mae Salong has practically remained a Chinese enclave, very different from the rest of the country. During my first stay, most of the elders did not speak a word of Thai and the many signs exclusively in ideograms immersed us in a Yunnanese universe.
2. Some visits to make in Mae Salong
Like many places in Thailand, Mae Salong has acquired a nickname: "Little Switzerland ." Yet, let's be honest, that's not really what comes to mind when you arrive. With its architecture, signs in Chinese, and typically Yunnanese atmosphere, you'd think you were in a village in southern China rather than an Alpine resort.
Well… “village ,” not quite. Even though it gives that impression, Mae Salong is indeed a town , with about 3,000 inhabitants . Its atmosphere is unique, setting it apart from the rest of Thailand.
On my first visit, I noticed, while passing by an open classroom, that the lessons were being taught in Chinese. Moreover, here, the older people often speak only their native dialect, which comes directly from Yunnan.
Overall, Mae Salong is a peaceful town , somewhat removed from the world. It lacks the charm of old towns of yesteryear, but it has a unique atmosphere all its own . For that alone, it deserves at least a stroll, if only to wander among its houses, admire its markets, and soak up its distinctive ambiance.
2.1 Mae Salong Markets
And speaking of markets, in Mae Salong you will find two main ones . The first is unmissable due to its location: it runs along the main road, at the entrance to the town if you arrive via route 1089.
Open all day , it brings together a mix of permanent shops, lined up along the road, and small temporary stalls run by members of local ethnic groups, particularly the Akha . A good place to stroll and observe local life.
The second market is located on a small street, right next to the Shin Sane Guesthouse . Unlike the first, this one is primarily a morning market , where you'll find vendors from the surrounding villages offering their fresh produce. It also has a covered section with permanent stalls, surrounded by traditional shops that remain open during the day until 17 pm.
And when I say "early bird," I mean at sunrise when the place really comes alive . The market is mainly active between 5 a.m. and 8 a.m. If you really want to experience the local atmosphere, that's when you need to be there.
2.2 The 93rd Division Memorials
Beyond the numerous Chinese graves and small cemeteries scattered around Mae Salong, you will find two memorial sites that stand out: the tomb of General Tuan and the memorial to the 93rd Division.
The Tomb of General Tuan
Spotted on Google Maps under the name สุสานนายพลต้วน , this discreet tomb is located on a hill, shortly after the entrance to the city and its market.
The site itself is not particularly spectacular, but it remains the resting place of a key figure in the history of Mae Salong . Its location, at the foot of a small tea plantation and surrounded by vegetation, gives it a peaceful atmosphere. From up there, one can also enjoy a partial view of the city.
The 93rd Division Memorial
Less than a kilometer from the market, slightly downhill, lies the much more imposing memorial to the 93rd Division . Built in a distinctly Chinese style , it is immediately striking upon entry with a large gilded sculpture depicting a hand holding what appears to be a lotus flower.
As you walk forward, you follow an avenue lined with well-maintained gardens , leading to the main courtyard. There, under a large building with a curved roof , is the main hall of the memorial, with an altar surrounded by wooden plaques, where the names of soldiers who belonged to the 93rd Division are probably inscribed.
On either side, there are two adjoining rooms. You can see photos documenting Mae Salong's early days , as well as what appears to be a meeting room or administrative office. The entire place is well-preserved, and best of all, access is free , so you might as well take advantage of it if you're in the area.
2.3 Wat Santi Khiri and its viewpoint
Perched at 1 meters above sea level, above Mae Salong, the Wat Santi Khiri dominates the city. It consists of two distinct parts.
The first includes the monks' living quarters, a prayer room, and a little further away, a little ubosot accessible by a staircase lined with nagas. Its architecture remains classic, and honestly, if you are already used to Buddhist temples, it does not present not a big interest.
In fact, to my knowledge, this is the only Buddhist temple in Mae Salong itself . But the real point of interest of the site is higher up on the mountain.
For the more determined, a staircase provides access on foot, located behind the ubosot. Otherwise, a road skirts the hill and leads directly to the summit. Up there, you'll find two separate buildings :
- The Phra Borommathat Chedi, an large modern chedi square base, top of 30 meters. Built in honor of the Princess Mother Srinagarindra, it was completed in 1996. Its interior is sober, but it has some particularities, such as stained glass windows adorning its windows and a statue of the princess (grandmother of the current sovereign).
- In front of him, a other building takes up certain elements ofLanna architecture, although its style is resolutely modern.
From the platform of the chedi, one can enjoy a beautiful panoramic view of Mae Salong and the surrounding mountains , an excellent spot to admire the landscapes of the region.
2.4 Tea plantations
You are here in the heart of the Golden Triangle , a region once infamous for its opium trade. Today, that trade is a thing of the past, and a completely different culture flourishes in these mountains.
Mae Salong is now renowned for its tea plantations , which blanket the slopes of the surrounding hills. With an altitude ranging from 1,200 to 1,400 meters and particularly favorable soils, the region offers ideal conditions for tea cultivation . Here, they primarily produce oolong tea , a high-quality Chinese tea whose name means "black dragon" in Mandarin.
Tea plantations to visit
The two best-known producers are 101 Tea Plantation and Wang Put Tan.
- 101 Tea Plantation : located at 5 km from the center, it is the most important and best known, largely because it is easily accessible from the main road leading to Mae Salong, coming from Doi Tung.
- Wang Put Tan : plantation closest to the city, but on my last visit it seemed a bit abandoned. Since then, a hotel has been built there and it seems that the site is gradually regaining a new dynamic.
101 Tea Plantation
Access is easy, with a car park right next to the factory (which, unfortunately, is not open to visitors). There is a row of shops offering a wide selection of teas, which can be tasted on site.
Its strong point? A panoramic view of the mountains , with impeccably maintained tea plantations at the foot of the shops.
Wang Put Tan
The entrance to Wang Put Tan Tea Plantation is easily recognizable , with two giant Chinese lions guarding the entrance. Just beyond, a giant teapot, a remnant of a former tasting shop (or so I imagine?), marks the beginning of the site.
Unlike 101, their packing plant is not located next to the plantation, but across from the boutique hotel of the same name. In principle, it does not appear to be open to the public.
However, being curious, I asked permission to enter from the workers present, which allowed me to review the different stages of tea production, a process identical to what I had already observed in the plantations of Nuwara Eliya , in Sri Lanka, which essentially boils down to various leaf drying processes.
If you love tea, Mae Salong is a must-see destination . Between the plantations, tea rooms, and shops , you'll be spoiled for choice… in fact, there are probably more tea shops here than actual restaurants!
3. Explore the surroundings of Mae Salong
Although it is possible to hire a songthaew for the day to explore Mae Salong and its surroundings, it is best to have your own transport for more freedom.
Depending on your route, you may be able to make some interesting stops along the way, whether to admire a viewpoint , visit a local temple or simply enjoy the scenery.
If you are coming from Doi Tung , a beautiful viewpoint is located just after the intersection between route 1130 and 4052 (the latter leads to Doi Hua Mae Kham , which I will discuss later).
At this spot, across the road, another panoramic view unfolds, complete with a small football pitch and traditional Akha swings . A small café has recently opened here, offering a pleasant place to stop for a coffee break or a snack.
As for the local temple, Wat Phra That Santitham , it's visible when heading towards Mae Salong via a secondary road connecting to Route 1089. It's impossible to miss: it's literally right next to the road, which then joins the main road leading to Mae Salong. It can even be seen from the town itself.
Its octagonal chedi is recent, dating from 2012, giving it a more modern architecture. Not a must-see, then, but since I was passing by, I figured I might as well take advantage of it.
Finally, beyond the tea plantations , the region has several ethnic villages , which can be discovered by exploring the surrounding area.
3.1 Tribal villages
Even before the arrival of this Chinese army from Yunnan, the area around Mae Salong was already populated by several mountain tribes , whose origins also go back to southern China (and for some to neighboring Burma).
Among the ethnic groups visible around Mae Salong are the Mien (also called Yao), the more "traditional" Lahu and Lisu, and the Hmong. But in my experience, what I saw most in this region were the Akha , known for their imposing headdresses decorated with silver coins.
When I first came to Mae Salong, I went for a stroll just south of the town to one of the ethnic villages surrounding it.
It's possible to make a loop through the small mountain roads (see map below), passing through several villages. But before going any further, I'd like to clarify something : over the years, these villages have changed, and their traditional architecture is tending to disappear in favor of more modern buildings.
I touched on this subject elsewhere, but today it's becoming increasingly difficult to distinguish between ethnic groups from one village to another, as wooden stilt houses give way to brick and mortar buildings. This is a logical evolution that improves the living conditions of the inhabitants, but it also changes the perception one might have of an "ethnic village."
To illustrate what I'm talking about, here are two photos comparing the same house in 2010 and then in 2017 (top right):
In practice, this loop first passes through an Akha village, Baan Pa Kha Suk Jai . During my first visit, I had the chance to meet elders in traditional dress, sitting on the terrace of their house, busy with their daily tasks.
A scene that I never saw again afterwards...
There are still a few exceptions to this evolution, such as this house where only the roof has been replaced with sheet metal, but whose original structure is still intact a few years later (2010 vs 2017 and at last count, still there today).
The next stop is in a coffee-producing village , Baan Pana . I had just tried a local coffee at the Pana Coffee House. Unfortunately, they use a dark roast, where the bean is almost black.
This type of roast is supposed to give more body and robust flavors, but personally, I prefer a “medium” roast, which gives a darker bean and a more aromatic coffee.
The village has changed so much that I had trouble realizing that I had also been there with my parents more than a decade ago. It was only when I looked back at my photos that familiar details—like a small bridge I remembered—tipped me off.
To give a better idea, here is the comparison between 2010 on the left and 2024 on the right, all the thatched roofs have disappeared:
If there is at least one thing that does not change over the years, it is the welcome of the people, and especially of the children, always curious to meet foreigners, few of whom pass through these villages.
If you really want to explore the region thoroughly , although it's not strictly necessary these days, an SUV might be preferable . On my first visit, I rented a 4x4 with my parents, which allowed me to explore more remote areas. That's how I discovered a hard-to-reach Lahu village , by following a random unpaved track.
A little anecdote : it was only six years later, after digging through the details of my photos, that I was finally able to find the exact location on Google Maps, which I annotated on my map at the end of the article along with the entire possible loop for a day trip.
3.2 Doi Hua Mae Kham: A Mexican Sunflower Festival
Let's move away from Mae Salong a little to discover Doi Hua Mae Kham , a mountain so isolated that even Google Street View hasn't set foot there yet.
Located in the far northwest of the region , less than a kilometer from the Burmese border, this site is only 50 km from Mae Salong , but it still takes two hours to get there by road, as there are so many bends.
Its main attraction – at least, what brought me there – is the flowering of Mexican sunflowers (บัวตอง – Bua Thong) that cover the mountainside between November and early December. Incidentally, a famous spot for this is Doi Mae U Kho in Mae Hong Son province.
But these vast yellow expanses can also be found at Doi Hua Mae Kham . A festival, then in full preparation, is celebrated there on this occasion, bringing together all the surrounding tribes. Unfortunately, I arrived a day too late to attend, not knowing the exact date…
Next to the sunflower field, the locals told me to go see a small local waterfall. It's not even marked on the map, but it's easily accessible. Finally, Hua Mae Kham is located on a mountainside, and therefore offers a panoramic view of the surrounding area.
I will add that the village where I stopped to admire the sunflowers is of the Lisu ethnic group, an opportunity to approach the daily life of a different tribe. And there too, the welcome and the smiles, especially from the children, were there. I was even able to try a small local restaurant that didn't look like much but fulfilled its function very well!
Even out of season, coming here remains an interesting experience. The journey alone is worth the trip , provided you're not prone to motion sickness, as the road winds and curves come one after another. Along the way, you pass through several villages, where life unfolds peacefully, and you can enjoy magnificent rolling landscapes dotted with rice paddies.
3.2 Ban Thoet: walk in the heart of the mountains
During another stay in Mae Salong, I went to the Choui Fong Tea Plantation . I'm not talking about the one located near Doi Tung , in the plain, but another one, from the same company, lost in the mountains, just next to the Burmese border.
It's located off the beaten track, on the road that also leads to Doi Hua Mae Kham . The problem was that at the time, I had no idea what the road conditions were like (this is now clear since the Google Street View car drove through it in 2022!). So, I abandoned the idea partway through, but that's what led me to the outskirts of the small town of Ban Thoet.
A city in the heart of the mountains
Ban Thoet is a peaceful village nestled in the heart of the mountains, with a few local attractions and temples . Along the way, there's a roadside viewpoint which, on a clear day, offers a glimpse of the Wat Santi Khiri chedi in the distance.
At the entrance to the city, I also stumbled upon an intriguing site completely by chance. I parked in what looked like a parking lot in a courtyard that I wasn't sure was private or not. Behind it, you can see a staircase going up to a building overlooking the area.
This place is listed as " Huai Phueng Shrine " on Google Maps, although it's poorly signposted on the other side of the road. When I parked, some locals confirmed I could go up. I'm not entirely sure what the building near the summit was used for, but behind it, there are a few Chinese tombs. But above all, what a privileged spot! The view of the surrounding nature at Ban Thoet is breathtaking!
The temples of Ban Thoet
During this same trip, I also stopped at Wat Phra Songchai Ratanapalangphuang , nicknamed the "Temple of the Giant Bronze Buddha." There is indeed a bronze statue there… but it's not so "giant" in reality!
The temple is particularly distinguished by its gardens adorned with statues, several of which are also made of bronze. Another notable feature is a massive staircase leading to the main building, upon which sits the large Buddha statue. From the top, one can enjoy a beautiful panoramic view of the surrounding mountains.
That day, the rain was starting to fall, and I didn't want to risk myself on wet mountain roads. So I cut my visit short and postponed exploring the area until later.
When I passed through the region again, on my way back to Doi Hua Mae Kham, I this time took the time to stop at the chedi of Wat Sam Tao , which overlooks the town of Ban Thoet.
A vestige of the past: Khun Sa Old Camp
One of the only sites I haven't yet visited in the area is Khun Sa Old Camp . This is the former stronghold of drug lord Khun Sa , who settled here in 1964 with his own militia, dubbed the "National Liberation Army," before being driven out of Thailand by government forces in 1982.
4. How to get to Mae Salong
Mae Salong is located 70 km northwest of Chiang Rai and 45 km east of Thaton.
By bus or songthaew
Regardless of your starting point, there is no direct bus route to Mae Salong. Here are your options:
- Via Mae Sai : Take a bus to Mae Sai (Platform 5 of Chiang Rai Bus Terminal) or possibly a songthaew. Go down to Pa Blood, opposite a PT station (green logo)Where road 1130 goes up towards Mae Salong. Next to the crossroads, blue songthaews are waiting to make the climb.
→ Please note: after 13:00 p.m., there is no more transport available. - Via Mae Chan : Another possibility is to go down a little earlier, in the small town of Mae Chan. After the roundabout, you will find a stop where dark green songthaews, which then go up to Doi Mae Salong by road 1089.
Prices : approximately 60 Baht per person for the songthaew journey from Pa Sang or Mae Chan if taken in a shared taxi. Charter trips are also available starting from 400 Baht.
By car
As with the songthaews, there are two main roads to reach Mae Salong by car:
- By Pa Sang : from Chiang Rai, take the 1 route heading north (Mae Sai) to Pa Sang, then turn onto the 1130 route, which will be in this direction on your left.
- By Mae Chan : the “main” road passes through the 1089 route, which leads to Thaton and Fang. At the crossroads with a checkpoint, take the 1130 route on your right to go up to Mae Salong.
GPS tip : If you follow Google Maps from Chiang Rai, it will take you via the 1089 , but will make you climb before reaching the 1130. This saves about 10 minutes , and that's how I discovered the road passing in front of Wat Phra That Santitham , mentioned above.
️ Journey time : allow 1 hour 30 minutes from Chiang Rai , same from Mae Sai, with many bends , but a superb panorama of the region!
5. Where to eat and sleep in Mae Salong?
5.1 Eating in Mae Salong: Limited options, but some good places
In Mae Salong, the restaurant options are quite limited. Many restaurants close early and offer mainly Chinese cuisine, particularly noodle dishes, which restricts culinary choices.
Unless you have a restaurant in your hotel, you may quickly find yourself in the same situation as me… Namely, walking along the main road, you will see little light, little activity , and here, even the mastery of Thai is sometimes limited, so English even more so!
If you're staying at Shin Shane Guesthouse , you can visit Xin Shi Dai Bakery . Don't let the name fool you into thinking it's just a bakery: while they do bake during the day, they also offer a selection of dishes in the evening, including classic Thai cuisine. It's simple, delicious, and the service is fantastic—the people who run the shop are truly lovely!
Alternatively, if you walk a little further, you'll find 7-Eleven (always handy in a pinch). Right next door is CJ Coffee & Tea (ร้านซีเจ cj coffee and food ดอยแม่สลอง on Google Maps). It closes earlier than Xin Shi Dai but offers a few simple, typical, and tasty dishes.
Otherwise I once tried the terrace restaurant of the My Place hotel, which I can also recommend.
5.2 Sleeping in Mae Salong: my tried and tested options
Regarding sleeping arrangements, in addition to My Place , mentioned above, here are my 3 choices tested to date:
– Shin Sane Guesthouse (from 300 Baht ): which boasts of being the first guesthouse in Mae Salong (since 1970!). It was my place to stay during my first visit, as options were extremely limited at the time. It was quite basic, as was the price, but the welcome was warm. They have since expanded and it remains an excellent option.
– Wang Put Tan Boutique Hotel ( from 800 Baht) : More modern, this hotel has undeniable charm and, thanks to its location, offers superb views from the room terraces. Unfortunately, it's a victim of its own success and often fully booked during peak season, so book well in advance.
– Phumektawan Resort ( from 850 Baht) : a real gem in the region thanks to its excellent hospitality! This is a family that knows how to make guests feel welcome! While the hotel has the feel of a "large" resort, it maintains a family-run atmosphere. And above all, what a view! From the platform that serves as a parking area, where you'll find the reception, you can see the entire mountain to the east. Its main drawback is its location a bit outside of Mae Salong (3 km). Having your own transportation is therefore preferable, if not essential, for a stay here.
6. Mae Salong attractions on a map
Here is a map to help you find your way with the list of places mentioned in the article:
I'll conclude by saying that if you have a day or two to spare between a stay in Chiang Rai and Chiang Mai, and despite its "modernization," Mae Salong is definitely worth the short detour . It remains a favorite in this region, an integral part of the Golden Triangle, which is less visited and quieter than the area around Chiang Mai.
Note that weekends can be a bit busier, especially during the winter period (November to early February) as Thais enjoy the fresh mountain air.
So, shall we embark on a little tour of “China”?
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