Two weeks in northern Vietnam is both a short time and a long time… There's so much to see that we had to make choices, some of them difficult. Knowing that for this second trip to Vietnam, we decided to focus exclusively on the north and northeast, we had to leave out the entire northwest region around Son La, Mai Chau, etc.
We had originally planned an itinerary, of course, but as always, we give ourselves a minimum of flexibility in order to be able to adapt according to any unforeseen events and/or better options once other information is obtained on site.
Well, honestly we can't say that we've really changed our schedule.
Here is the planned route at the start:
- Arrival in Hanoi, departure for Ninh Binh -Tam Coc afterwards - night in Tam Coc
- Visit Tam Coc, return Hanoi, night train to Lao Cai – night on the train
- Lao Cai ➔ Sapa journey – night in Sapa
- Sapa tour and excursion to Lai Chau - overnight in Sapa
- Sapa ➔ Bac Ha route – overnight in Bac Ha
- Bac Ha ➔ Ha Giang route – overnight in Ha Giang (obtaining permit for the border area)
- Ha Giang ➔ Dong Van route – night in Dong Van
- Dong Van ➔ Meo Vac ➔ Bao Lac route – night in Bao Lac
- Route Bao Lac ➔ Cao Bang – night in Cao Bang
- Visit Ban Gioc Waterfall – overnight in Cao Bang
- Cao bang ➔ Lang Son journey – night in Lang Son
- Visit Lang Son and surroundings – overnight in Lang Son
- Return journey to Hanoi – overnight in Hanoi
- Return Bangkok
Concretely, instead of spending 2 nights in Sapa, we stayed only one night in order to be there early in the morning in Bac Ha on Sunday, to see the market. When preparing, we hadn't really thought about that but once there... Then, instead of going straight to Ha Giang, we cut off with a night in Vinh Quang, which is about halfway, it saved us from having to drive too far with only mountains, we would have spent a lot of nights.
Then, at the end, we were supposed to stay 2 nights in Lang Son, but we finally headed to Bac Son for one night. Finally I wanted to take a trip to Thai Nguyen where we slept one last night before returning to Hanoi.
Our itinerary in the north of Vietnam
- Arrived in Hanoi, departure for Ninh Binh -Tam Coc straight away - night in Tam Coc
- Visit Tam Coc, return Hanoi, night train to Lao Cai – night on the train
- Lao Cai ➔ Sapa journey – night in Sapa
- Sapa -> Bac Ha route – night in Bac Ha
- Route Bac Ha ➔ Vinh Quang – night in Vinh Quang
- Route Vinh Quang ➔ Ha Giang – night in Ha Giang
- Ha Giang ➔ Dong Van route – night in Dong Van (obtain permit for the border area)
- Dong Van ➔ Bao Lac route – night in Bao Lac
- Route Bao Lac ➔ Cao Bang – night in Cao Bang
- Visit Ban Gioc Waterfall – overnight in Cao Bang
- Cao Bang ➔ Bac Son journey – night in Bac Son
- Bac Son ➔ Thai Nguyen route – night in Thai Nguyen
- Return journey to Hanoi – overnight in Hanoi
- Return Bangkok
Which, on a map, gives this:
Some explanations :
– The yellow beds (below the lettered dots) are our overnight stops.
– The blue line represents the route taken by motorbike (a total of around 1300 km!)
– The red line is the passage made at Tam Coc, we went there by bus then taxi from Ninh Binh.
– Finally, the black line is the night train, connecting Hanoi to Lao Cai, the motorbike also having taken the train with us (see the article here)
As a preview, this is what our days looked like:
Day 1: Hanoi – Tam Coc
We headed straight from the airport to Ninh Binh, using a mix of taxi and bus as transportation. That left us with a first afternoon to visit a temple and take the famous boat ride among the karst peaks.
2nd day: Tam Coc – Hanoi
For this 2nd day, until the early afternoon, we visited the surroundings of Tam Coc, first going to the viewpoint, then we searched in vain for Hoa Lu, considered the first capital of Vietnam. Towards the middle of the afternoon, we had to return to Hanoi, see and finish paying the agency that was going to give me the keys for the motorbike.
In the evening we went to the train station and spent a night on the train to reach Lao Cai.
Day 3: Lao Cai – Sapa
Once the motorbike arrived, we were going to fill up first, then head to the mountains of Sapa! In the morning, we went to see the Tram Tron pass and the Thac Bac waterfall (Silver falls) on the way. In the afternoon, after meeting and talking with a young woman from a tribe, we confirmed that we were going to follow her.
We went to his village by motorbike and spent the end of the day there, after chatting over a good meal.
Day 4: Sapa – Bac Ha
Before leaving, we visited the Sapa market early in the morning, a fresh and friendly atmosphere. Then, a short 80 km journey awaited us to reach Bac Ha from Sapa, with a lunch break in Lao Cai where we passed again. We went along the border, waving hello to China, a rather easy day.
Day 5: Bac Ha – Vinh Quang
Visit to the Bac Ha market, a place of bargaining for many tribes including the Flowery Hmong, and their beautiful colorful costumes. We left disappointed, without really knowing why, but it was quickly forgotten by going to the Lung Phin market, more rural, a few kilometers further north. After lunch, we got on the bike and left for Vinh Quang, also about 80 km away.
6th day: Vinh Quang – Ha Giang
A day spent deep in the mountains, we got lost and were eventually stopped by customs because I'd taken the wrong road, the one leading to China . And of course, I didn't yet have the required access permit, let alone a visa for China. This cost me even more time, as I then continued down the wrong road as well.
At least, technically no, since I was following the GPS and there was indeed a road… But it quickly turned into a track, soon impassable for our motorbike. The locals confirmed, with some difficulty, that it wasn't possible to go back down to Ha Giang , so I had to resign myself to taking the long way around. I therefore completed the last 40 kilometers, thankfully on flat ground, to Ha Giang.
At least it allowed us to see some great places!
Day 7: Ha Giang – Dong Van
I was planning to get the special permit to reach the Dong Van region in Ha Giang before leaving… But no luck for us, it was closed that morning, and given the road ahead (more than 150 km), I didn't see myself waiting for it to open in the early afternoon.
After checking, I have confirmation that now, you can get the permit on site in Dong Van (or Meo Vac too). This is the journey I was most looking forward to doing. I was not disappointed. Having fallen a little behind schedule, I arrived at night, a little frustrated, but well satisfied by the superb and different landscapes I had encountered that day.
The police station was still open and we were therefore able to get the permit, which is mandatory to stay in the area ( the hotel asked us for it ).
- For information regarding Obtaining the “special” permit is here!
Day 8: Dong Van – Bao Lac
And frustrated by the day before, I went back to do the loop before Dong Van, leaving our luggage at the hotel since we would go back there. Despite the rain that decided to annoy us that morning. Fortunately, it was the only time and it didn't last!
Noticing a photo of a type of local palace in a restaurant, I inquired about visiting it. This was accomplished by going to the "Hmong King's" Palace . Satisfied with our morning's 30-kilometer ride, we loaded the motorbike back in Dong Van, and after lunch, headed towards Bao Lac for another 80-kilometer journey.
Magnificent views, especially when crossing the Ma Pi Leng pass , and winding roads. By this point in the journey, my backside was starting to ache at the end of the day.
Day 9: Bao Lac – Cao Bang
A slightly less interesting part, but quite long with a little more than 130 km. A few passages in villages, we come across people selling vegetables on the side of the road, a few lost houses and this kid, peacefully on the back of a buffalo!
Day 10: Visit to Ban Gioc waterfall and surroundings
A slightly different day, since we were going back to sleep in Cao Bang, we moved without luggage this day. A little less than 90 km there but as much afterwards for the return, which ultimately made the longest day in terms of kilometers. But the road is generally easy with an average speed of 50 km/h.
After the sublime Ban Gioc waterfall , which straddles the border between China and Vietnam (it was actually the first time I'd ever seen Chinese people in their own country…), we were going to visit the Nguom Ngao cave . It was just after this cave that the mishap occurred… A small fall, the details of which I'll explain later…
Day 11: Cao Bang – Bac Son
So it was with my arm in a mess that I drove the 130 km of the day to Bac Son. Fortunately a rather easy road. The worst was not my arm or even my hill that I almost did not feel, but my buttocks, which were starting to have difficulty staying on the seat for more than 15 km…
Day 12: Bac Son – Thai Nguyen
In the morning, we climbed the hill to admire the magnificent viewpoint of Bac Son ; it wasn't easy, but it was worth it! Then we reached Thai Nguyen after an 80 km motorbike ride. Thai Nguyen is a large city north of Hanoi, known for its tea plantations. The less-than-ideal weather and my own condition didn't make me particularly enjoy the area, but I remain convinced that with a little more exploration of the province, there must be better places to be.
Day 13: Return to Hanoi
Back in Hanoi . Not without difficulty, because in addition to my still-sore arm, it was almost a two-hour drive on a dusty road (another 80 km) with truly chaotic traffic, full of motorbikes and trucks. And Hanoi itself is even worse. I was somewhat glad to return the motorbike, and thus ended my 1300 km adventure in the north of this beautiful country.
We spent the afternoon wanting to visit Hanoi, but it was Monday so all the monuments and museums were closed… So, we settled down for a while in a cafe and did some shopping (mostly souvenir shopping) while reminiscing about our visit here 5 years ago.
Day 14: Return to Bangkok
It's the end of the trip, back to "reality". We return to Bangkok, as the rainy season begins to water the big city... But my buttocks and my arm will be able to recover!
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