Ubon Ratchathani: Sam Phan Bok, the “Grand Canyon” of Thailand

As there were still nearly 80km to reach Sam Phan Bok from Khong Chiam, we left early, when the sun was barely rising. The opportunity to see some rather ghostly landscapes on this morning full of fog.

Having left around 6am, it would take me 2 hours to make the journey, because I couldn't help but stop for a few moments and take photos on these deserted roads, between the monks we could come across giving their morning alms, the reddish sun playing hide-and-seek with the fog and the fields, the Thai countryside in all its simplicity/serenity, it was a treat!

You should also know that the road is not always in good condition, in fact, I was wondering about the management of the network... Because you could drive on a beautiful, brand new, black, well-tarmacked road and suddenly, poof, go to a road like a small country road strewn with potholes and rubble.

And in concrete terms, it alternated like that all along, constantly changing my speed between a good 100km/h and going to 50/60km/h a few km further on...

The “Grand Canyon” of Thailand

A good morning in short before even arriving at the main visit of the day, the "Grand Canyon" of Siam, that's what the corner of the 3 holes is nicknamed. Corner which is a spot known just for the greatest concentration of these rock formations due to the erosion of the powerful river that is the Mekong, but concretely, we can finally see this kind of erosion all along the river in the whole region and not only at the place called "Sam Phan Bok".

On the other hand, the site is only to be visited during the dry season, from December to April, the ideal being when the level is at its lowest, revealing a maximum of these "holes" and the work of the rock by Mother Nature. The rest of the time, the rainwater swells the level of the river and the rocks disappear under the muddy waters. For our part, at the end of December, it was still only the beginning of the dry season, but already gave a very good rendering of what Sam Phan Bok has to offer.

Arriving on site among the first tourists, we could see that the Thais actually come there to camp as a family with their pickups.
The still high water level still left the presence of mud on the rocks near the river bed. We decided after requesting prices to make a longtail ride (since it is clearly a must-do in the area, price: 500 baht).

Walk along the Mekong and breakdown…

As we were heading towards the first point of interest, our guide explained that when the water level is low, the islands and lands that emerge from the middle of the water are officially in Thailand, while when everything is covered, the border between Thailand and Laos, which is facing us, is in the middle... not very fair, but we must admit that clearly only the Thais have known how to exploit the area because opposite we will barely see a fisherman, except for forest and not a single house in the area...

We will therefore disembark for the first time in the middle of the river, a sort of surreal landscape where the point of visit is a curiosity in a rock, erosion has formed in the rock what clearly resembles a pot. Local belief has it that you can read/interpret numbers on a part of it, numbers that if you play them in the lottery will make you win. Apparently a local personality is keen on it (because it works for him...)

As we were leaving from there, several other boats were starting to land. We had just left when suddenly, boom, the breakdown. And with the current we started to drift quickly. No real panic on the part of either us or the guy who calmly started to row to tie himself to a ledge near where we had come from a few moments earlier.

Thais come with their families for a picnic.

Watch out for the mud.

Boat tours are possible.

Holes and Mickey

We will still be stuck there for half an hour while a colleague brings him the necessary tool to repair it. At first we thought he was going to transfer us to his colleague's boat when he approached us as he was taking his passengers to the next stop.

Once we left we went to a sand dune which reminded me of the one at Mui Ne in Vietnam. An impression of a stateless land with this beach in the middle between Thailand and Laos.

The sand is rather fine, but the heat is starting to be felt so we won't linger there. We just set off a few meters further in order to reach the main spot, the one where you can see the hollow between 2 blocks of rocks, giving the place the nickname of "canyon", the one where you can see beautiful natural pools filled with turquoise water and Mickey-shaped holes (yes, really).

Most people end up focusing on this very specific spot… There was also a professional photoshoot with its model who was smiling kindly while the sun was not yet too strong, it was not going to last, I imagine her afternoon…

So we still stayed a little over 3 hours in Sam Phan Bok, which was the whole morning in the end.

After a lunch break next to the car park with a view of the site, we got back on the road to reach one of the region's national parks, the signs for which we had come across on the way there, Pha Taem National Park.

Emerald colored swimming pool.

Hello Mickey!

Fashion shooting.

So, 1,2 — 3 holes ok.

A sand ramp is provided to go down directly by car (pick-up strongly recommended).

Everyone takes their picture in front of the sign.

Small rice cake as an appetizer.

Meal with a view of the river and the “Sam Phan Bok”.

Did you know this place? Would Issan be part of your visit plans? Your impressions are always welcome!