Deoksugung is one of the five royal palaces located in the South Korean capital, Seoul. Its name can be translated as Palace of Virtuous Longevity.
While I haven't been able to find a construction date for Deoksugung Palace , the site is believed to date back to the 15th century, as it originally served as a "simple" residence for Grand Prince Wolsan, the elder brother of King Seongjong (1469-1494). Paradoxically, because it lacked the status of a "palace," it was spared the destruction of the 1592 Japanese invasion. This escape allowed the site to be reused as a temporary residence for King Seongjong upon his return from exile after the end of the Imjin War (1592-1598).
One of the unique features of Deoksugung Palace is that it is the only royal complex housing both buildings in the traditional Korean style and buildings with Western architecture.
This article is part of my series on Seoul. If you're planning a complete itinerary, you can find the detailed 4-day Seoul program here.
Practical information
Getting to Deoksugung Palace
The palace is located in the heart of Seoul, near the city hall, making it easy to access.
Address : 99 Sejong-daero, Jeong-dong, Jung-gu, Seoul, South Korea
You have the above address on Google Maps but if you plan to use the local navigation app Naver Map, it's here (it's in Korean by default...):
Since the palace is next to the town hall square, you simply need to stop at City Hall Station , which you can reach via two lines:
- If you arrive from the line 1, head towards the exit 1 or 3
- If you arrive from the line 2, head towards the exit 12
Get off in front of the city hall, at the "Deoksugung Palace" or "City Hall Station" stop. If you are already in the city center, you will have the choice between these different bus lines:
- Green line n° 1711, 7016, 7022
- Blue line n° 103, 150, 401, 402, 406, 604 or the N16 at night
- Jongno Bus No. 09 or 11
If you arrive directly from the airport, you can take bus number 6005. Further details show other bus lines that will take you to nearby locations, such as Seoul Plaza (the large square facing the City Hall), the Lotte Hotel, and the Press Center. All information is available in English on the following website: http://english.seoul.go.kr/get-to-know-us/city-hall/directions/1-seoul-city-hall/
Deoksugung Palace Hours and Fees
Deoksugung Palace Plan
To help you find your way around the directions I'll give below, here's a map of Deoksugung Palace . I've indicated the numbers corresponding to the photos and their associated explanations. This will only be useful if you happen to stumble upon it while exploring on your own, and since I like to write comprehensive articles, the information is there just in case.
- Daehanmun Gate
- Geumcheongyo Bridge
- Junghwamun Gate
- Junghwajeon Throne Hall
- Gwangmyeongmun Gate
- Seokjojeon Building
- Right wing of Seokjojeon
- Fountain
- Junmyeongdang Hall
- Jeukjodang Hall
- Deokhongjeon Hall
- Jeonggwanheon Hall
- Seogeodang Hall
A Brief History of Deoksugung Palace
Deoksugung Palace was built during the reign of King Seongjong in the 15th century as a residence for his elder brother, Prince Wolsan. While it is unclear why the elder brother was not chosen to rule, he nonetheless enjoyed his brother's protection. The site, however, did not have the status of a royal palace and is of relatively modest size.
In summary, here are the key dates to remember:
Second half of the 15th century : construction of the residence by King Seongjong for his elder brother.
1593 : The Japanese invasion puts King Seonjo (1552-1608) into exile, who returns a year later to temporarily settle in the Deoksugung Palace, which was spared by the fires.
1608 : Seonjo's successor, King Gwanghaegun (1575-1641), was crowned in this palace, although he was in the process of rehabilitating Changdeokgung Palace, which would then serve as his residence.
1611 : King Gwanghaegun renamed the palace " Gyeongungung ," thus granting it the status of a royal palace. However, I don't know the name used until then.
1618 : King Gwanghaegun takes up residence in the renovated Changdeokgung Palace. Gyeongungung Palace will later be renamed "Seogung" (Western Palace), and will remain an auxiliary royal residence for the next 270 years, playing no significant role until the end of the 19th century.
1897 : Emperor Gojong established the Great Han Empire, the first Korean empire, and took up residence in this palace, restoring its former name of Gyeongungung. The palace became the central seat of the empire. Gojong was determined to modernize the country, which explains the presence of Western-style buildings within Deoksugung Palace today.
1907 : Emperor Gojong was pressured by Japan and forced to abdicate in favor of his son, Sunjung, who would become the country's last ruler. Emperor Sunjong then gave the palace its current name, Deoksugung, in honor of his father, Gojong. The name was intended to wish Gojong a long and prosperous life, as he had lived at Deoksugung Palace until his death in 1919 at Hamnyeongjeon Hall.
2007 : As with many palaces in Seoul, Deoksugung Palace is getting a makeover and major restoration work is restoring its original appearance.
Visit the different structures of Deoksugung Palace
To give you an idea of where we were in our trip, we visited Deoksugung Palace on our second day in Seoul, after having visited Gyeongbokgung Palace on our first day . We later combined this visit with a trip to Namdaemun Gate (South Gate) and the market of the same name located opposite it.
I won't hide from you that for this palace, I was too lazy to redo the plan in my own way... So, I kept the one from the official website and its numbering. And as such, it doesn't seem logical to me because it's not really in the order of the visit... Don't be surprised if the numbers don't follow each other in my list of titles, because I prefer to keep the chronology of our visit to explain what each building and area corresponds to.
Daehanmun Gate (Main Entrance) – No.1
Although it is now the main gate, it was not always the case. Traditionally, the main gates of palaces in Korea are located in the south, while this one is located in the east corner. It became the main gate after the expansion of the road in front of it. This is not an exception to the rule, however, as the main gate of Changgyeonggung Palace is also in the east.
However, it is the only example of a single-story palace gate (as opposed to the usual two). Originally named Daeanmun and then renamed Daehanmun in 1906 when it was rebuilt , this gate has been moved several times. Daehanmun was most likely the gate that was originally located to the south, but was relocated to the east due to urban planning. This planning also altered the wall surrounding the palace, shifting it further east, just as this gate was moved.
The base and stairs of the gate are now buried underground, after the gate was moved back slightly to its current location to make way for the expansion of the avenue in front of it. As an aside, the calligraphy under the roof of Daehanmun Gate was made by Nam Jong-cheol, a high-ranking official during the reign of King Gojong.
Geumcheongyo Bridge – No.2
This is the kind of little thing that is easy to miss. I say this even though I didn't notice it myself and therefore don't even have a photo... It's the small bridge with two arches just behind the main gate, spanning a canal that doesn't exist today. It's a fairly old stone bridge. It's special in the sense that, normally, all the royal palaces had a canal, fed by a natural spring, that crossed them and a stone bridge to cross it.
However, Deoksugung Palace developed from a private residence rather than being originally planned as a royal palace, so there was no natural stream. Consequently, an artificial canal was dug and a stone bridge was eventually built over it. The canal has since disappeared, and any water that may have existed around the palace has dwindled to a mere pond.
Hamnyeongjeon Residence and Deokhongjeon Hall (No. 11)
To reach this group of buildings, one passed through the Gwangmyeongmun Gate (number 5 on the map), which appears quite alone in the middle of a large courtyard. The reason being that originally, this gate was the gateway to the emperor's residence (Hamnyeongjeon Hall, not numbered on the map but next to number 11).
However, the Gwangmyeongmun Gate was moved by the Japanese in 1938 near the Seokjojeon Building, which was then being renovated with the addition of the West Wing and the fountain. While the gate has recently returned to its original location, the walls and the rest of the layout of this area of the palace have not, leaving the gate as an "orphan."
Hamnyeongjeon served as Emperor Gojong's bedroom, although the building also housed the Empress under the same roof. The arrangement was as follows: the right wing was the Emperor's quarters, while the Empress slept in the left. The fire I mentioned earlier started in this building, and while it's not directly related (he didn't die in the fire), it was also in this building that Emperor Gojong breathed his last.
These two events are however linked. At this time, the Japanese Empire already had its sights set on the Korean peninsula, which it sought to occupy, and it considered Gojong as a bulwark against this objective. It was then strongly suspected that the fire was of criminal origin when Emperor Gojong, who died in 1919, succumbed to poisoning.
Deokhongjeon Hall is the secondary building adjoining the Emperor's quarters. It is one of the most recent constructions since it dates back to 1911 and that is why it has some characteristics specific to the transition to modernity, launched by Gojong. In fact, we can see an electrical installation there (just like Hamnyeongjeon which has chandeliers on the ceiling), in fact, it was the one present since 1887 at Gyeongbokgung Palace, which was moved to this palace.
The Deokhongjeon hall is somewhat unusual because it's square, unlike the rectangular halls typically found in Korean architecture. Deokhongjeon was designed to receive ambassadors and high-ranking officials, and to conduct the day-to-day affairs of the government. Another interesting detail is that a wall once separated Deokhongjeon from the private quarters of Hamnyeongjeon.
So, I've kindly given you the summary as it's presented on the various websites about Deoksugung Palace . But personally, I raised an eyebrow while reading all of this. Because if you check the information, there's something illogical. Deokhongjeon, for example, is presented as having served Gojong, the first Emperor of the new Korean Empire. However, as I mentioned earlier, he was deposed and replaced by his son, Sunjong, in 1907. Up to this point, there could simply be a confusion of "titles," because if Gojong was no longer the Emperor, officially, he could have contributed to the affairs of state. Except that in 1911, the Korean Empire no longer existed! It had just been annexed by Japan, and even Emperor Sunjong had abdicated, leaving the country without a sovereign for the first time in its history.
Logic would therefore dictate that a blunder was repeated everywhere but that the building rather dates from 1901 and not 1911. And if it is indeed 1911, it could certainly be the work of Gojong, but I doubt that he carried out any state affairs there since he no longer had any power at that time, being barely tolerated by the Japanese. At most, he used it as a personal office and perhaps received guests but without directly deciding the fate of his country. I also think that there is an abuse of language, considering Gojong, then still alive, as still being "Emperor" de facto, despite Japanese domination.
Jeonggwanheon and the Deoksugung Gardens (No. 12)
Just behind Hamnyeongjeon and Deokhongjeon is a lovely terraced garden, dominated at the top by a small hall, Jeonggwanheon. The name could be translated as "the place to observe the garden in silence". Understand that it is like a garden shed to enjoy this green area in peace.
Built in 1900, Jeonggwanheon was the first example of European architecture integrated into a royal palace . Emperor Gojong enjoyed relaxing here, drinking tea, listening to music, and hosting small receptions. The Japanese also used it as a cafeteria during the occupation.
The building is supported by a series of wooden colonnades and surrounded by three verandas. The tops of the exterior columns are Romanesque in style, and the spaces between them are decorated with openwork designs. Deer, pine trees, bats, and floral motifs adorn the upper columns and balustrades, creating a Korean-inspired atmosphere.
This subtle touch is the work of the Russian architect Sabatin , who designed the structure. While he did indeed create the whole in a distinctly Western style, he respected local culture by incorporating details specific to Korea. The deer that can be admired on the wooden panels of the railings holds a bullocho branch in its mouth, a plant known in Korea for its medicinal properties. One can also see pine trees, symbols of longevity (just like those in the garden), as well as dragons, symbols of the Emperor. Less commonly, but with a closer look at the motifs, one can also spot a bat, because in Asia, this animal, which has a bad reputation in Europe, is seen as a symbol of good fortune (among other reasons, due to the similarity in sound between the words "fortune" and "bat" in Chinese characters).
Seogeodang Hall (No. 13)
To reach the next area, we walked along a small, tree-lined path. This led us behind the Seogeodang Hall. It's the only building with a double-tiered roof. Because it isn't decorated with colorful paintings like the royal palace buildings usually are, Seogeodang looks more or less like typical houses of the period , namely the late 15th century.
Shortly after the Japanese invasion of 1592, King Seonjo established his residence here and remained for the remaining 16 years of his reign. It was in this very building, Seogeodang , that Seonjo died in 1608, leaving behind, among others, his young queen consort, Inmok. It was in the courtyard in front of this building that Queen Inmok severely reprimanded King Gwanghaegun, Seonjo's successor, for his misdeeds. As a consequence, Queen Inmok was placed under house arrest here for 10 years.
Gwanghaegun's successor, King Injo, moved most of the buildings in Deoksugung Palace to Gyeongbokgung Palace, which was under renovation, but kept Seogeodang in its current location. Unfortunately, the current building does not date from this period, as it was not spared by the fire of 1904.
Junmyeongdang and Jeukjodang Halls (No. 9 and 10)
These two adjoining halls are located behind the throne room (Junghwajeon). Junmyeongdang is the building to the west . And it was indeed here that King Gojong (before he became Emperor and founded the Korean Empire) received foreign delegations and conducted affairs of state. The original structure was also destroyed by fire in 1904 , and the current building was rebuilt immediately afterward.
It later served as a nursery for young girls from noble families surrounding the royal family, including his young daughter, Princess Deokhye, who would be the last in all of Korea to bear this title (she died in 1989). Junmyeongdang is connected to Jeukjodang by a narrow corridor supported by a stone bridge.
Jeukjodang is the East Hall , its name simply meaning "house where the kings ascended their thrones," as it was there that Kings Gwanghaegun (1608) and Injo (1623) were crowned . Also rebuilt after the fire of 1904, the sign above the gate was written by King Gojong himself.
Western Buildings (Seokjojeon)
Seokjojeon was built in 1910 , the first of its kind in a royal palace, as it is a Western-style building , more specifically, a 19th-century Neoclassical architectural style, with Greek-style colonnades and a triangular central roof. Designed by the British architect John Reginald Harding as early as 1898, construction began in 1900, then supervised by Sim Uiseok, a Korean; Sabatin, the same Russian architect who designed the veranda of this same palace (if you missed it, I mentioned him earlier regarding number 12); and finally Ogawa, a Japanese architect. Since it would take no less than 10 years to complete the building, the work was then finished under the direction of M.H. Davidson, an Englishman.
Consisting of three floors, the first was used for attendants and valets while the second was then intended as an audience hall, although rarely used except for a few banquets, as was the third floor, intended as the new residence of the king. This last floor included the bedrooms of King Gojong, the living rooms and an office for the use of the king and the queen consort.
Later, the building was converted into a museum and is now part of the royal museum, the Daehan Empire Historical Museum . Its 11 exhibition rooms house personal effects belonging to the last members of the Yi royal house, which included the last Emperor of Korea. It is a museum that offers a glimpse into the daily life of the royal family during the short-lived Korean Empire.
If you are interested, please note that it is necessary to make a reservation to visit the museum. See information below.
Daehan Empire Historical Museum
Booking
Registration at reception is mandatory . Depending on the day and time (see below), you will have the choice between a shorter 45-minute tour and a longer 75-minute tour. Please note that in both cases, only 5 foreign visitors can register for each tour. Furthermore, the tours are conducted in Korean, but you can request English audio guides at reception; otherwise, there would be little point, as the lack of free entry already limits the appeal…
Opening days and hours
– For the 45-minute tour :
Tuesday: 9:30 a.m., 11 a.m., 13 p.m. and 15 p.m.
Wednesday to Friday: 10:30 a.m., 11 a.m., 11:30 a.m., 13 p.m., 14:30 p.m. and 16 p.m.
Weekends (Saturday and Sunday): 10:30 a.m., 11 a.m., 11:30 a.m., 13 p.m., 13:30 p.m., 14 p.m., 14:30 p.m., 15 p.m. and 15:30 p.m.
During holiday periods: 9:30 a.m., 11 a.m., 13 p.m. and 15 p.m.
– 75-minute tour :
Tuesday to Sunday (including holidays): 9:30 a.m. and 16:30 p.m.
Starting in 1936, the west wing was added and completed in 1938, during which time a garden and fountain were built in front of it. This new building, in a style similar to Seokjojeon, now houses the National Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art (Deoksugung).
This museum specializes in modern art and is dedicated to various activities: academic studies, collection and preservation of works of art, staging of temporary and permanent exhibitions, development and execution of educational programs, publication and international dissemination of information.
Junghwamun Gate and Junghwajeon Throne Hall (No. 3 and 4)
This brings us to the centerpiece of Deoksugung Palace , and I'm obviously not talking about the Junghwamun Gate, which faces south, aligned with Junghwajeon, the throne room. It's the main hall of Deoksugung Palace, built in 1902, just like the gate, only to burn down two years later (yes, that infamous fire of 1904 again).
Originally topped with a two-story roof like other palaces, it was rebuilt more modestly just two years later in 1906 (at the same time as Junghwamun Gate). And it's almost anecdotal, but this makes Junghwajeon one of the last structures built during the Joseon Dynasty before the Japanese annexation in 1910. As with all the other palaces, one can admire a large paved courtyard behind the gate, where state ceremonies were held. The stones once again mark the positions of officials according to their rank, with those closest to the king obviously being the highest-ranking officials.
This hall is much more sober in terms of size compared to those of the other palaces, showing the limited role that Deoksugung Palace has as a royal palace. Junghwajeon rests on a "small" two-story terrace. The stairs are traditionally bordered by "haetae", these kinds of mythological lions specific to Korea. Another particularity specific to this palace, the throne room is to this day freely accessible around.
Usually, these important halls were surrounded by a covered corridor, as seen at Gyeongbokgung, Changdeokgung, and Changgyeonggung Palaces, which is no longer the case at Deoksugung Palace. Historians believe that the corridor that currently partially surrounds the Hamnyeongjeon residence was once part of the structure surrounding the throne hall.
Inside the building, you can admire the throne, behind which is the painting called Irwoloakdo, a classic in Korea. It includes the sun, the moon and five mountains. This painting symbolizes the Korean people's wish that their emperor be prosperous forever. The dragons that can be seen on the ceiling symbolize the emperor's total authority.
That concludes our visit to Deoksugung Palace. To give you an idea of the time it took, it took us just over an hour to explore at a leisurely pace. To be honest, I visited it to have actually seen all five of Seoul's famous palaces, so I could be at least somewhat thorough on the blog.
Luckily it was only the second one for us, so not particularly boring, and still interesting, because due to its recent history, it has its "own character". But due to the similarity in the overall architecture of the buildings (except Seokjojeon), I can understand that the latter is skipped in favor of other places if you don't have enough time in Seoul.
To complete: what to do around Deoksugung Palace?
- Myeongdong Neighborhoods
- South Gate and Namdaemun Market
- Cheonggyecheon
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