The Artist's House in Bangkok: art and khlongs in Thonburi

Today I am introducing you to an unusual place in Bangkok that is still preserved from mass tourism (so keep it a secret!). Baan Silapin, its name in Thai, or The Artist House for its English version, is an old wooden building nestled along a major khlong in Bangkok.

And if there is of course a road to access it by land, it is by a ride in a long tail boat that access is the most fun. A ride in the famous canals of Bangkok (the khlongs, in Thai) is really a must, because you can come across interesting places and the artists' house is one of them.

The Artist House: Baan Silapin

The Artist House, or Baan Silapin in Thai, is located at the corner of Bang Chak Khlong and on the edge of the wider Bangkok Yai canal. As a side note, Bangkok Yai was once a meander of the Chao Phraya River before a shortcut created across the river transformed this important artery into a "simple" canal. If you take a boat tour from Saphan Taksin or the Tha Chang quay near the Palais-Royal, you may have walked past it without realizing it!

Yet it's quite recognizable with its life-size statues sitting in front of its wooden terrace. This one-story house on stilts, made entirely of wood, is a former family home, 200 years old. Purchased by a group of artists, the house has not only been restored but also given a unique touch.

Located on Bangkok's right bank (known as Thonburi), this is the perfect place to spend a quiet afternoon. Strolling through the surrounding streets gives you the feeling of traveling back in time, to a time without cars, when canals ruled and wood was the dominant building material. A visit like this also reminds you that before becoming the chaotic metropolis we know today, Bangkok was nicknamed the "Venice of the East."

Bangkok, the Venice of the East

And let's talk about it precisely, because we forget it a little, but Bangkok was indeed known under the name of "Venice of the East", obviously due to its many canals that were once used to move from one point to another. With the emergence of the car and a desire for modernization, many khlongs have been filled in to make way for roads or other newer infrastructure.

Today, while a vast network still exists, many have unfortunately become open sewers or are no longer truly navigable, due to bridges that are too low or the concreting of the banks. The few canals that are still wide enough on the left bank, such as the Saen Saep, are still used for public transport. But it is mainly on the right bank, in Thonburi, that the majority of waterways remain, accessible by private boat. You can still come across old-fashioned houses on stilts and access some popular floating markets such as that of Lat Mayom, also accessible from the artists' house.

The Artist House is precisely one of the most beautiful examples of this heritage.

Traditional puppet show

One of the special features of the place is that it offers every weekend at 14 p.m. a traditional Thai puppet show, note that this one is free ! This is not guaranteed, however, because sometimes the puppeteers are busy with a show and cannot perform at Baan Silapin.

Just like the statue in front of the canal illustrates, traditional Thai puppets are manipulated by 3 people, one manipulating the head and the left arm, another, the right arm and the last one the legs.

The puppets tell the stories of the Ramakien, the Thai national epic, derived from the Indian Ramayana (in short, a story of princes, princesses, demons and the monkey king). It is interesting to see these puppeteers, men if it is a masculine character and women if feminine, move gracefully, in symbiosis to form one and give life to this puppet.

In addition to the show, there are sometimes workshops for children, learning the gestures of traditional dance accompanying this type of theater, paintings, mask creation, etc. It is also possible to simply enjoy a coffee, eat a small ice cream or feed the fish and watch the boats parade on the canal.

Artists and a cafe

Baan Silapin is evolving but remains dedicated to artists, as there are still paintings on display upstairs (which can also be purchased elsewhere). In addition, many people take advantage of this picturesque setting on weekends to indulge in painting or drawing. Similarly, the shops adjoining the house are all dedicated to crafts.

Otherwise, you can always relax at the café inside, and the neighborhood remains more vibrant than ever. In short, The Artist House is always worth a visit!

Neighborhood with its temple and local life

You can loop around the back of the house and walk the surrounding streets, forgetting you're still in Bangkok. It's a chance to experience the simple life in a generally quiet neighborhood, except for the occasional scooter passing through the narrow streets.

If you are not yet disgusted by temples in Thailand, do not forget to visit the temple Kampaeng Pak Khlong, notable for its murals.

How to get to the artists' house

Several methods to do this:

• Take a boat from Saphan Taksin (accessible by BTS) or Tha Tien (near Wat Pho) or Tha Chang (near the Grand Palace) docks and ask to stop at Baan Silanpin. Expect at least 1 Baht for an hour on the boat. Not the cheapest, but perhaps the most "typical" 😉
• Take a taxi and go to Charansanitwong Road soi 3. At the very end of the soi, there is a 7-Eleven, the taxi can't go any further, it's time for you to get off. Cross the small bridge over the khlong then turn left and follow the canal on the pontoon in front of the wooden houses for about 100 meters.
• If you are driving, this was my option the first time, go to street (soi) Phetkasem 20 or soi 28 and park at Wat Kampang or Wat Thong Sala Ngam (my choice).

Sleeping at The Artist House

The Artists' House doesn't offer accommodation per se. However, and this is why I'm writing this column, it's possible to sleep right across the street and enjoy the tranquility of the neighborhood (well, a little less so during the day, as the boats pass by regularly).

Bangluang House

Knowing that there is a bridge nearby to cross the canal, you can choose to spend a night at Bang Luang House. The establishment has a good reputation with nicely decorated rooms and all at less than €30.

You can book this hotel via the link below:

• Book Bang Luang House on Agoda

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