Laos Luang Prabang: a unique blend of Lao culture and French influence Luang Prabang, Travel to Laos 5 (5)Located in northern Laos, at the confluence of the Mekong and Nam Khan rivers, Luang Prabang (which can also be seen in the French version as Louang Prabang), remains the most popular destination for tourists in the country, even surpassing the current Vientiane capital, much less popular.This interest is notably due to the status of the former royal city, classified as World Heritage Site in 1995. Its current charm is based on a fascinating mix between its many temples testifying to its rich past and the transformations that occurred during the era of French Indochina. This period saw the city modernize and enrich itself with infrastructure as well as buildings with colonial architecture.This symbiosis between Lao heritage and French influence gives Luang Prabang a unique character : it evokes a French provincial town, embellished with exotic touches typical of Asia.On my first visit, I was immediately seduced by this city, and I knew that I would return one day. It took me almost ten years to return, this time in the company of Jitima, who was discovering this legendary city of Laos for the first time. In this updated article, I take you to (re)discover Luang Prabang and its attractions after spending a little more time there than my first stay. Summary hide Brief History of Luang Prabang The architecture and atmosphere of Luang Prabang Must-see places to visit in Luang Prabang Exploring the temples: Vat Xieng Thong and other discoveries The ceremony of offering to the monks (Tak Bat) The morning market: a little immersion in local life Mount Phousi: THE panorama of Luang Prabang Royal Palace Museum: A Glimpse into Laos' Monarchical Past The night market: discover Laotian crafts and gastronomy Restaurants and cafes tested in Luang Prabang Where to stay in Luang Prabang Other practical information about Luang Prabang Brief History of Luang PrabangHuman presence has been proven in the region at least since 8 years BC, needless to say, it's not new! Before the 14th century and the birth of the kingdom of Lan Xang, the small town was already the capital of a local kingdom, called Muong Xua and was then called Xieng Thong Xieng Dong.In the middle of the 14th century, King Fa Ngum, returning from a stay in the Khmer kingdom, decided to unify the principalities making up Laos to make it the Kingdom of a Million Elephants (the literal translation of "Lan Xang").This unification was accompanied by the introduction and imposition of Buddhism. The king of Angkor had not forgotten his son-in-law (Fa Ngum had married his daughter) and to congratulate him on his achievements and his fervor for Buddha, the Khmer king sent Fa Ngum a golden Buddha. the Pha Bang, also written Phra Bang which became the symbol of the kingdom and its palladium (the most sacred item in existence which was also linked to the protection of the city and the kingdom).You will have become it, this is what will later give its name to the city. Indeed, when the capital was transferred to Vientiane in the middle of the 15th century, Xieng Thong Xieng Dong then took the name of Luang Phra Bang, in honor of the sacred statue, which became a national palladium.At the breakup of the Kingdom of Lan Xang In 1707, Luang Prabang became an independent kingdom until 1893These two centuries were tumultuous for the city, which was pillaged by the Burmese of the Konbaung dynasty in 1773, destroyed by a major fire the following year, and pillaged again in 1887, this time by the Chinese Black Flags. Shortly after, it was finally occupied by Siamese troops before its annexation by France.Under'French administration, which extended from 1893 to 1953, Luang Prabang serves as the residence of the French commissioner. The city retains many traces of this colonial era, with the construction of roads, bridges, schools, hospitals and especially the many houses still visible today.Detail of a bas-relief at Wat Mai.Since theLaos opened to tourism in 1989, Luang Prabang has undergone a significant transformation. The town has seen its infrastructure modernized and many historic houses have been restored to accommodate guesthouses, hotels and restaurants, meeting the growing demand from visitors.His registration on the list of UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1995 aimed to prevent uncontrolled urbanization and protect the city from excessive transformations due to increased tourism. Luang Prabang is today considered one of the most charming and preserved cities in Asia, largely thanks to the Heritage House who works to preserve the old city.Heritage House in Luang Prabang.The architecture and atmosphere of Luang PrabangDuring my first stay in Luang Prabang, I was immediately seduced by its unique atmosphere. Arriving following a two day cruise on the Mekong With my parents, my first discovery was the street along the river. It is lined with a row of colonial-style houses, combining wood and brick, offering a timeless charm.For this new visit, our hotel was ideally located near this street, near the confluence of the Nam Khan River and the Mekong, literally neighboring the famous Wat Xieng Thong Temple. As soon as we arrived, we enjoyed the view and the sunset over the Mekong, a great way to immerse ourselves in the unique atmosphere of this city.Despite the popularity of Luang Prabang as a tourist destination, there is a feeling of tranquility there. You don't feel overwhelmed by the crowds, especially because most visitors spend their days exploring the surrounding sites, such as the famous Kuang Si Falls. Additionally, in March, the month of my two visits, the heat can be intense, prompting people to avoid the hottest hours.If we ignore the motorbikes, which are quite numerous depending on the schedule, and the bicycles to a lesser extent, it gives a bit of an impression that the city "belongs" to pedestrians. Even if this time, we came across quite a few tourist vans, particularly along the banks.On our first evening, we took advantage of the cool evening air to stroll through the old town, where we were tempted by a dessert. On the way, I came across the illustrious old red Citroën belonging to the 3 Nagas restaurant (still in excellent condition!), I also took some photos of the Wat Sensoukharam, a temple in front of which we passed.The next day, after the visit of the Wat Xieng Thong, then a small café near our hotel, we walked along the street bordered by the Nam Khan River, south of the old town. This street mixes Lao-colonial architecture, with its brick and wood constructions, and more recent buildings with art deco facades.We came across a group of kids who were coming back from a swim in the river. They then rushed to collect fruit from a well-stocked tree, first trying to make it fall by swinging a branch, then, seeing the lack of success even after trying to help them (being taller and therefore closer), they ended up climbing the tree, allowing them to pick up and eat a fresh fruit, which Jitima discovered and tasted for the occasion (and in the end, I don't know what it was...).In this corner, from where you can see the mountain in the background and the old French bridge that crosses the Nam Khan River, it is normally possible to see a bamboo bridgeThe latter is rebuilt every year, because it is dismantled or destroyed due to rising water levels during the rainy season.It is a seasonal bridge, present only in the dry season, originally a private initiative, to allow people to more easily reach the old center of Luang Prabang and its establishment (it is built at the foot of the Dyen Sabai restaurant, a good reference in Luang Prabang). This avoids a detour by road of several kilometers.You can barely see the kid in the tree!The shore opposite the peninsula of the old center.Another similar bridge is theoretically visible at the confluence of the Nam Khan and Mekong rivers, near the Viewpoint Cafe that we tested (see the section on restaurants and cafes tested). The latter is also payable ($1 per crossing) but it was not present during this stay. The other bamboo bridge was not either because the entire bank opposite was under development work, apparently to stabilize but that announces a lot of concrete and could spoil the banks…Then, after a quick passage to the Wat Siphoutthabath, located at the foot of Mount Phousi, we explored the main street of old Luang Prabang, the Sisavangvong RoadThis street is lined with many restaurants and shops and is home to the night market, located in front of the Royal Palace Museum.I would have liked to wander longer to photograph the colorful houses and immortalize the scenes of life in these alleys, but we had imperatives that day. Having an appointment at a spa that we had booked (and which offers a free shuttle), we had to start returning to our hotel. We then completed our half-day by taking the street along the Mekong.After our relaxing break at the spa (it was well outside the decor, which did not match the essence of the place, which is supposed to be chic), we went to the night market, which made us go back through what I consider to be the main street.With the late afternoon lights and the heat starting to become bearable, it's a pleasant moment. And to get back to our hotel, I'll give you a thousand guesses, another quick tour along the street bordering the Mekong, so as not to simply retrace our steps and do a loop in the area.This is what will make us go to our evening restaurant, the Calao, a good address that I share with you in my section dedicated to restaurants and cafes tested in Luang Prabang. The next day, in addition to hanging out in cafes and restaurants, we focused on the essential visits, so fewer photos on the general appearance of the city. Must-see places to visit in Luang PrabangIt was mainly during our second day that we focused on the must-sees of Luang Prabang. For the most part, I revisited the places that I had already explored during my previous stay with my parents. However, having a little more time this time, we added a few temples that I had not yet seen and in particular the visit to the Royal Palace Museum, which I had skipped during my first visit.To put it in context, my presence in Luang Prabang was initially linked to the renewal of my visa. The stay remaining short and with Jitima's desire to enjoy without rushing, our exploration mainly focused on the old center. No need to rent a scooter: we did everything on foot, most of the sites being located less than a kilometer from our guesthouse. Two days in Luang Prabang are hardly enough but allow you to soak up and enjoy a minimum.Exploring the temples: Vat Xieng Thong and other discoveriesWat Xieng ThongThe next morning, it was quite natural that we started our visits with the Vat Xieng Thong, located right next to our guesthouse (Villa Mira Heritage). The temple is located at the end of the peninsula formed by the loop of the Nam Khan River on one side, and the Mekong on the other. The Wat Xieng Thong, whose name translates to “ Temple of the Golden City ", is one of the most important temples in Laos.Little reminder: I write it Vat and not Wat because it is marked like that on Google Maps, but having already mentioned the subject, Wat is normally the Thai version when in Laos the pronunciation is closer to "Vat", quite simply).It is an important Buddhist temple, founded in 1560 by King Setthathirat, to honor the founder of the city, King Chanthaphanith. Due to its location, next to the Mekong, this Wat often served as a gateway to the city.The kings of Laos used this site for their coronations and was also the center of many annual festivals honoring Buddha and various folk spirits. As such, it was under the patronage of the royal family until 1975, when the Lao People's Democratic Republic (LPDR) was established, ending the monarchy in the country.The temple is full of beautiful ornaments, gilding and wall paintings and it is easy to see why it is popular. One of them is a pavilion with a facade decorated with magnificent gilding, called Royal Carriage House. It houses a funeral chariot used for the ancient kings of Laos.Although it blends in very well with the group of buildings that make up the temple, it is nevertheless modern, as it is part of the additions made during the major renovations of the 50s and 60s. Other renovations will subsequently be carried out more recently in the years 2012-2013, involving carefully cleaning the buildings, repainting the gold stencils, restoring the tiles, damaged doors and windows and repainting the walls.The sacred library, called Tripitaka, is recognizable by its walls covered with colorful mosaics, very photogenic. This structure was added in the 1828th century (some sites mention 1880 while others give the date of XNUMX).Still in operation, Vat Xieng Thong has benefited from its aura which allowed it to escape pillage and destruction by the Chinese Taiping rebels (the famous "black pavilions", mentioned above). Indeed, when Luang Prabang was pillaged in 1887, Vat Xieng Thong was one of the only temples spared, because their leader had been a monk there in his youth.Opening times : 8:00 am - 18:00 pmEntrance fee : 20 kips ($000)Wat Mai SuwannaphumahamAlso simply called Wat Mai, which translates to “New Monastery,” this temple was the only other site we formally visited with Jitima. To give some context to our visits, we went there after visiting the neighboring former royal palace. Its prime location next to this museum, but also along the night market street, makes it one of the busiest sites in Luang Prabang.Initially, it was a modest-sized temple, built at the end of the 1821th century during the reign of King Anurout. It was enlarged and renovated around XNUMX, during the reign of King Manthatourat, who gave it its current name. It was mainly Jitima who wanted to explore this temple.For my part, I had no particular expectations, but I was particularly impressed by the magnificent façade of the main hall, decorated with gilded bas-reliefs (even if they date from the renovations in the 60s).Inside, besides the delicate golden Buddha image in the center, the temple walls are also remarkable. The upper part is decorated with an impressive number of small Buddha sculptures. While writing this article, I discovered that this temple has great historical significance, as it was the home of the famous Phra Bang Buddha for a long time.Opening times : 8:00 am - 18:00 pmEntrance fee : 10 kips ($000)Wat Hosian VoravihaneA vestige of the first version of this article since it is a temple in which we went to visit with my parents during the first stay. Wat Hosian Voravihane is located south of Mount Phousi, slightly away from the historic center and therefore less visited.If I'm honest, it's nothing special compared to other old temples you might come across, even though it's one of the oldest, being founded in 1705. But what makes it special is that you'll come across a lot of young monks there, because the temple is home to a fairly renowned Buddhist school.Opening times : 8:00 am - 18:00 pmEntrance fee : FreeOther notable templesIf you ever enjoy temple tours, I'll point out some other temples you can check out in Luang Prabang.– Already mentioned in this article, because we passed by it every day, you have the Wat Sensoukharam and its standing Buddha visible from the street, located not far from Vat Xieng Thong.– Behind Mount Phousi is not far the What Wisunarat, a temple built in the 16th century (but rebuilt more recently at the end of the 19th century), which stands out for its atypically shaped stupa. Its base is square, but its dome has a rounded shape, earning it the nickname of watermelon stupa! (That Makmo in Lao).- The Wat Xieng Mene is a temple founded at the end of the 19th century, but more than the temple itself, it is its location that can be interesting, because it is located in the village of Ban Xieng Mene, located opposite Luang Prabang, on the other side of the Mekong. The opportunity to take a small local ferry to easily find yourself outside the city.Wat Xieng Mouane.The ceremony of offering to the monks (Tak Bat)Now we come to the controversial topic. During my first stay, I had neglected the morning offering ceremony to the monks, called Tak Bat. It was only by experiencing it this time that I realized how much of its authenticity it has lost and regret not having done it 8 years ago.Initially, this ceremony consisted of locals offering alms to monks who walked the streets early in the morning. This gesture aimed to provide the monks with food and essential products for their daily lives at the temple. A common practice that is found every day in Thailand, Cambodia and Burma.However, in Luang Prabang, this spiritual and solemn moment turned into a real money machine, a reality that I found quite distressing. In addition, we were gently scammed… Jitima, being present, wanted to be actively involved rather than passively observing to take pictures, as many tourists do by default.When we arrived at the Wat Sensoukharam, it was still dark. We noticed the row of plastic chairs along the street, placed on colorful mats. A lady approached us to sell us wicker baskets filled with sticky rice.Jitima took one for herself and another for me. In addition to the sticky rice, our set included a basket of sweet biscuits that we felt like we were stuffing the monks with, not particularly healthy for them… The real problem was the exorbitant price: 200 baht per person.Later, I saw the official prices on a sign, where a pack of sticky rice (2 kg all the same!) cost less than 100 baht. Not only did we pay double, but also, without really consulting us, or at least without warning us that we had to pay again, she served us another set. In the end, we paid 2×400 baht, or 800 baht (more than €20!).Official rates.When the crowd starts to arrive.When we arrive at rush hour, there are more people watching and taking pictures than actively participating...The latecomers are more relaxed, at this point in the photo, the crowd has already left.Jitima was positive, saying that the money could at least allow a family to live properly… Although the ceremony had a certain photogenic charm, it had lost all its authenticity. Paradoxically, most of the people offering to the monks (many of whom were young people) were tourists.The locals, however, waited until the end and were few in number to participate. The monks collecting the offerings did not recite the sutras, as is usually the case. Many reviews on Google Maps reflect this disappointment: "disaster for religion", "commercialized ceremony", "too many tourists" are among the most frequent comments, and this is understandable.Knowing the excesses of this ceremony before attending it, the live observation remains disconcerting. From this experience, I take away one advantage: by getting up early, we can enjoy a pleasant morning atmosphere and the sunrise, because the streets empty quickly after the end of the ceremony.Ceremony procedure : from 5:45 a.m. and generally until around 7:00 a.m.Price : if you participate in the ceremony by offering sticky rice to the monks, it costs 50 kips for 000 kgThe morning market: a little immersion in local lifeThe morning market is a daily institution in Luang Prabang. It starts even before the Tak Bat ceremony if you are a very early riser and ends mid-morning. In our case, it was precisely after the offering ceremony that we went to this market, taking advantage of being fresh and ready early in the morning (rare enough to be underlined).This is a rather rudimentary open-air market, where most vendors spread their wares on the ground. As Luang Prabang is the largest city in northern Laos, people from surrounding villages come here to sell their wares, despite the market's modest size.You will find a variety of products there: beautiful fresh vegetables, fruits (fresh or transformed into chips), cooked or raw fish, frogs, dried buffalo meat and other local oddities that are less appealing, knowing that some here offer a multitude of finds harvested near rivers or in the jungle.As is often the case with local markets, this is a great place to observe the daily lives of the locals, and Luang Prabang is no exception. Despite its proximity to the tourist heart of the city, this market retains a deeply local character. It retains the peaceful charm of Laos, and locals continue to go there every day to buy fresh produce for their families.There are two main areas:The alley perpendicular to the rue du palais royal: This is where you will find mainly fresh vegetables and some ready-made products, all presented on the ground.The street parallel to that of the royal palace: This back part of the market is partially more organized with a few shops in front of houses, a fishmonger's section, and a series of vendors offering crafts, similar to the night market. The vendors at the morning market are not the same as those at night (we asked the question out of curiosity).Opening times : 5:00 am - 10:00 pmThis small market takes place in a perpendicular alley as well as in the street parallel to that of the night market, not far from the royal palace.Mount Phousi: THE panorama of Luang PrabangAfter our morning market visit, I suggested we head to Mount Phousi, a must-see in the city. Built in 1804, this mountain offers a panoramic view of Luang Prabang. To reach it, you have to climb a series of 300 steps, lined with trees with twisted trunks, offering an appreciable shaded setting.The first time, I had chosen to go up there in the late afternoon, making the experience a little oppressive due to the crowds due to the sunset. By going this time early in the morning, we were able to enjoy the site in complete peace.At the top stands a golden stupa and a small temple, Wat Chom Si. You will have a breathtaking 360° view: on one side, the historic center of Luang Prabang and the Mekong; on the other, the city spreads out with the mountain in the background.There are several paths up Mount Phousi. The one we took is in front of the royal palace, which is considered the main access. However, on the way back down, we opted for a different path that runs along the crest of the mountain, offering a descent to the Nam Khan River embankment or Wat Siphoutthabath.As I started down, I noticed a few changes since my last visit. The site once occupied by the remains of an aerial cannon is now occupied by a statue of a hermit. Further down, a series of golden Buddha statues stand out, including a reclining statue with closed eyes that stands out from the rest.A little further on, we come to a "crossroads" with one of the stairs that goes back down here to the quay along the Nam Khan River. This is also where you will pay if you go up from the back of Mount Phousi. There we see a sign indicating the entrance to a cave. Curious, I follow the sign to go to this cramped space, where there are other Buddhas and an altar with a hermit in the center.The entrance to the cave in question.Well, nothing to write home about...You shouldn't be too tall either.Continuing on, we arrive at a shelter with a partial view of the Nam Khan River, where we see another indication marked "Buddha Footprint". These are often natural marks in the rock, or sometimes completely artificial, with the shape of a footprint, generally recalling the passage of Buddha on this earth.We approach the terrace with the footprint of Buddha.The building housing the imprint.As written, we don't see much...As Jitima pointed out, the one here is protected by a structure that requires kneeling, which is not so much the problem but clearly limits the visibility of the footprint. A few minutes later, we were back downstairs, in the courtyard of Wat Siphoutthabath.We arrive at the bottom, in the courtyard of the Wat Siphoutthabath staircase.Opening times : 5:30 am - 18:00 pmEntrance fee : 20 kips (000$)My advice : no need to come at sunset, the view is beautiful all the time. Might as well try to come early in the morning and admire the sunrise.Royal Palace Museum: A Glimpse into Laos' Monarchical PastBuilt between 1904 and 1909, the Royal Palace Museum subtly blends Laotian and French architectural styles. Some elements were directly designed by King Sisavangvong. The location was strategic: it allowed dignitaries arriving by the Mekong to disembark directly at its feet, because until 1975, it was the Royal Palace of the Kingdom of Laos.Following the fall of the monarchy to the communists, this palace became a museum. It offers several spaces, including the bedrooms of the royal couple, exhibitions evoking the history of Laos over several centuries, and a room dedicated to gifts offered to the king by various foreign countries.During my first visit, I had only seen the exterior (accessible for free, by the way, since only the interior was paid, which is no longer the case) and I had written in this article, and I quote myself: "I'm not expecting anything amazing".Although the palace looks much more modest from the outside compared to, for example, the Royal Palace in Bangkok, the interior surprised me with the majesty of the throne room, which marks the separation between the reception wing and the residential wing. Too bad photos are forbidden inside.But outside of this room, it was more in line with the idea I had of it, namely a rather sober, even austere, general decoration, especially in the rooms, which seemed vast and almost melancholic to me. The main building is surrounded by a garden, with a large circular pool on the side.The gardens of the royal palace.Haw Pha Bang Temple, home to the statue that gives Luang Prabang its name.Nearby, the Phralak Phralam Theatre, added in 2003, aims to perpetuate the Ramayana Lao, a live show evoking the epic of Rama, called Ramakien in Thailand. This is the theatre where you should first go (on the left after the ticket checkpoint) if, like me, you don't have trousers to cover your legs, an essential accessory for this visit. They offer you some to rent for 10 kips.Since photos are prohibited inside, you will also have lockers available to store your bags and cameras (including smartphones), which you can obviously lock (don't lose it!).A statue of King Sisavangvong stands in front of the theater.The circular pool adjoining the theater.The facade of the theater, very sober.Phralak Phralam TheaterOpening times : show on Monday, Wednesday, Friday, Saturday at 18:00 p.m. from October to February / 18:30 p.m. from March to September Entrance fee : there are 3 different prices depending on the seat row: 100 kips, 000 kips and 120 kips / person (respectively $000 -$150 -$000)After exploring the main building, head to the famous Haw Pha Bang temple, clearly visible from the street. Built in the 60s, it houses the famous Pra Bang Buddha statue. However, it is said to be a copy, the original being kept in a safe and used only during important ceremonies.Despite the approaching closing time, we took a quick look at the building at the back, which houses a collection of vintage cars and sedan chairs (photos are also prohibited). From there, we made our way to the side exit, passing a beautiful banyan tree, those trees with intertwined roots, from which we could see the summit of Mount Phousi where we were that very morning.royal palaceOpening times : 8:00 a.m. – 11:30 a.m. / 13:30 p.m. – 17:00 p.m.Entrance fee : 30 kips (000$)The night market: discover Laotian crafts and gastronomyThe market is quite lively as it is a bit of a beating heart of Luang Prabang's nightlife. Its location along Sisavangvong Road, from the tourist office to the Royal Palace Museum, right in the city centre, makes it a must-see. From 17pm onwards, this thoroughfare turns into a pedestrian shopping street, abandoning vehicles for pedestrians and colourful stalls.After wandering around the stalls the day before, we decided to go back the next day, this time with the idea of buying some souvenirs. Arriving just before sunset, with its rays tinting the sky with orange hues, we started with a reconnaissance, evaluating the items and asking about the prices. Bargaining is almost essential because from one stall to another, you will be given different prices for the same product.We bought some odds and ends there, including t-shirts with designs that stood out, because they were original creations from a local merchant. Unfortunately, I relied on the shoulder width and the size indicated (depending on the cut, a size M can fit me, but sometimes you need a size L), without trying them on… Back home, I had to give them to my nephew and niece because they turned out to be way too narrow…Returning to the beginning of the market, I took the opportunity, being at the foot of Mount Phousi, to climb a few steps to overlook the street, while enjoying the last light of day, with a view of the red and blue tents.It is worth noting that opposite the tourist office, at the end of the market, you will find an area including Laotian street food stands with tables and chairs to enjoy them directly on site. Grilled meats, Laotian noodle soup, stuffed baguettes or other quick delicacies to taste are in the spotlight.This area is located practically opposite the street where the market takes place in the morning, which, in the evening, also becomes a space offering various local gastronomic dishes.Opening times : 17:00 am - 22:00 pmSituation : along Sisavangvong Road (at the royal palace)Restaurants and cafes tested in Luang PrabangThis is usually a paragraph that I never write, for the simple reason that restaurants, in general, come and go. It is therefore difficult to keep the information up to date and to always find it relevant in the longer term. But if I make an exception here, it is for several reasons.First of all, it reflects the atmosphere of our stay in Luang Prabang, where we favored relaxation rather than intensive exploration, as I would tend to do in normal times. Then, mentioning these different establishments visited allows us to capture the very essence of Luang Prabang, with this "French" atmosphere and these terraces where you can sit.Besides places offering stunning views of the Mekong, the city is full of restaurants with varied cuisines, as well as many bakeries and cafes.I'll give you some prices at the end of this paragraph but I want to mention the subject here, inflation in Laos is quite impressive. When you look at the photos of the menus, from only a year ago, and the prices we had, we noticed a 50% increase in prices!!So unless you only eat really basic Lao dishes, it's not easy to eat really cheaply.Arrival dayThe evening of our arrival, we naturally went close to our hotel. So we tested the Peninsula Xieng Thong View Restaurant, which has a covered terrace on the street side, but above all another nicer one just in front, in the shade of the trees and with a view of the Mekong.Later that evening, we were walking around the historic center and were tempted by a dessert at the Villa Santi Hotel. The building is pretty, the dessert was okay, but the service left a little to be desired, but it would be our only "bad" experience of the stay.1er dayThe next day, as has become our habit, we had to try a coffee. We went to the Read Lao, which has a good reputation and offers filter coffees. Unfortunately, they only use Laotian coffee, the latter is not fundamentally bad but pure, it is too bitter for our tastes (on the other hand mixed with other beans, like Brazilian or Colombian to name a few, it can give an interesting taste).That day, as a reminder, we had an appointment at a spa. The walks having kept us busy, we found ourselves having a quick lunch. And in this context, we looked for something close to our hotel so we tested the famous Viewpoint Cafe.Well, it wasn't too bad, fast service as we needed (we had a simple meal, she had a salad, I had a sandwich) even if we couldn't really enjoy the view, the café being located at the confluence between the Nam Khan River and the Mekong. That evening, as we were driving along the Mekong to get closer to our hotel, we set our sights on the hornbill, a somewhat classy restaurant, located in a beautiful building overlooking the street. It was very good, without being excessively expensive, a very good address.This is where we tasted the local beer for the first time, Luang Prabang Beer, a really original name, but a nice surprise, light and to my taste (and unusually, Jitima also liked it).2th dayAfter the Tak Bat ceremony and our visit to Mount Phousi, we were getting hungry. Jitima wanted to try the Joma Bakery Cafe, especially because she had seen photos on a social network making her want to try it. It's a chain that I knew from having tried it recently in Vientiane. Their sandwiches are good so I thought ok, why not, even if personally, I would have preferred to try the Zurich Bread Artisan Bakery for example.The fact is that the one we ended up going to, the one closest to where we were, is not like the photos and therefore less "charming" (the one she saw is another branch, along the same artery, but 900 m from where we were). It's especially that in the end, seeing the color of the coffee bean (too black), I forgot the idea of having a coffee there and was content with a small sandwich.Frustrated by the lack of caffeine, our next step that morning was to test the Dada Cafe, on the street along the Mekong. And there bingo, in addition to having the choice between several beans, it was a really good coffee (cold, as usual). Enjoying the morning peace on the terrace was not unpleasant!After a break at the hotel to rest, we set off again to eat, testing one of the bakeries, which also offers meals,e Banneton Café French Bakery. It wasn't bad although I was a little disappointed by the disc breaking, which was my first choice.Later, especially after the visit to the Royal Palace, the afternoon heat encouraged us to take a break. So we had a beer at the Luang say cafe&restaurant, a beautiful place, again on the banks of the Mekong.Terrace of Luang say cafe&restaurant.In the evening, we first looked for a restaurant close to the night market, where we came from, but nothing inspired us more than that (don't ask me why, basically, there's plenty to do). Then we said to ourselves, hey, what if we went to the traditional house Heuan Chan Heritage House. Passing through an alley the day before we saw his garden and thought it was a restaurant too. When we reached the height of the garden, there was indeed a gate, but closed, with an indication to go to the main entrance.So we continue our way down the alley and end up in the courtyard of the Wat Xieng Mouane. The monks are then in full prayer but others are there in the courtyard to give us information, while we look for the entrance to the house. No luck, we can't find it and from the little we can see of the house in question, we don't have the impression that it's a restaurant (spoiler alert, there's actually no restaurant there).Passage to Wat Xieng Mouane at night.So I Googled an address in the area and found an interesting one, the Khaiphaen. The latter turns out to be popular and so it was full that evening without reservations… A little short of ideas, we finally returned to the Calao, a sure bet that did not disappoint us this 2nd time.Day of departureWe had almost half a day left before our flight in the late afternoon. After our breakfast, we came back to drink our coffee at Dada Café, and when it was time to eat, we said what could be better than to try our luck again at Khaiphaen! The concept of this restaurant is that it is managed by a group of teachers, training young people in the catering professions, whether in the kitchen or in service.The principle is nice and the food is well presented. Afterwards, Laotian cuisine lacks subtlety in flavors for my taste, compared to Thai cuisine, my curry being essentially salty. It turns out that this restaurant is right next to the shop of the seller of the t-shirt with original creations, crossed at the night market the day before (lalalaos, I'll give you the google maps link)Examples de price à luang Prabang : – Bottle of water: 7 kips (about $000)– Coffeeé au Dada Cafe: 45 000 kips (about 2,10 $)- Bière au luang say cafe&a restaurant : 40 000 kips (about $1,9)- Défast simple : 50 000 - 80 000 kips per dish (approximately 2,40 – $3,80)- DîNer au Hornbill : 235 000 kips per person, with dessert (approximately 11,10 $)Where to stay in Luang PrabangBelow are the two hotels tested to date:View Khemkhong GuesthouseNote: 8,9 / 10Budget: from 16€During the first stay with my parents, we put our suitcases down at the View Khem Khong, which I criticized for its cramped room without a fridge, but which, apart from that, is ideally located on the street on the banks of the Mekong, not far from the main places to visit.Most of the rooms are in a building adjacent to the house which serves as reception. Learn more and book the View Khem KhongVilla Mira HeritageNote: 8,9 / 10Budget : from 37 €With Jitima, we stayed at Villa Mira, located at the very end of the peninsula of the historic center, right next to Vat Xieng Thong. The room was spacious even if the bed was a little hard for my taste.The street was quiet and the owners were super nice, a little extra to start the day off right, the breakfast is certainly simple, but fresh and good. Learn more and book Villa Mira HeritageOther practical information about Luang PrabangTo complete this article I wanted to add some additional information.How to get to Luang Prabang from Thailand:Buses are available from major border towns including Houai Sai et Vientiane.On my first visit I arrived using the famous slow boat from Houai Sai, a 2-day cruise along the Mekong.The fast train now connects Vientiane to Luang Prabang in less than 2 hours (you can book your tickets here).Luang Prabang has an international airport. There are at least two direct flights per day from Bangkok, one with Bangkok Airways (rather expensive) and another with Air Asia (4 times cheaper!). From the airport, plan on around 200 baht to reach the city center (and vice versa).Money tips: And speaking of bahts, note that the Thai currency is widely accepted in Luang Prabang. This is not necessarily always beneficial because the conversion will often be to your disadvantage and the change will necessarily be given in kips, but it is still good to know because it can help out. Same with the dollar which is also used in Laos (I am less sure about the euro).Other possible visits in Luang Prabang:In the city you can visit the UXO center that deals with unexploded bombs, offering an insight into the demining process the country is still facing.30 km south of the city, don't miss the famous Kuang Si Falls.15 km to the east, discover the Tat Sae waterfall, consisting of a series of small falls accessible by boat by following the Nam Khan River quickly (look for “Tad Sae Waterfall ferry”).25 km upstream from Luang Prabang are the Pak Ou Caves, a historic site containing hundreds of miniature stone and wooden carved Buddhas. Slow boats usually stop here before reaching the city, but you can also take small boats from Pak Ou village to cross.Did you like the article? share on Pinterest! Did you like the article? Vote on the article Note globale 5 / 5. Number of votes: 5 No votes yet. Be the first to rate this article! Did you like the article? Follow me on social media Brand Essentials to visit Historic Districts Suggestions for visits Temple 0 5 Roman 05/09/2016
