Phetchaburi: 7 good reasons to discover the city and its region

Phetchaburi is one of those little-known areas. Because it is a city and region that could be described as "less important". Many will go for example to the floating market of Damnoen Saduak, 60km away and then return nicely to Bangkok. Otherwise people generally go directly to Hua Hin or to the islands further south.

Let it be said, Phetchaburi will certainly please more those who like to enjoy themselves, having time to discover a country in more depth. Otherwise simply those wishing to really get away from the tourist areas.

Even though some places to visit have a certain notoriety, without which Phetchaburi would really have a hard time making itself known. Here is a summary of what you can find there!

The image has nothing to do with this chapter but I wanted to put it somewhere!

1- On the road to the south

The first and almost the best reason, since there is no need to make a detour to visit this city. Phetchaburi is located on the road leading to the south of Thailand.

On the road to Phetchaburi.

Phetchaburi can be a first stopover city, before for example reaching Hua Hin, 70km south of there. Obviously, this will only be interesting if you have a few days ahead of you to reach the south of Thailand.

Also located only 130km from Bangkok, it is an easily accessible destination for a short excursion outside the capital.

2- Khao Luang Cave

One of the main attractions of Phetchaburi. After parking in a small car park at the bottom of the hill, I reached the site on foot.

You will first be greeted by a swarm of small monkeys that swarm around the site. These are not very shy, so avoid annoying them or luring them with a little food.

While there is another parking lot at the top, closer to the cave, it is not possible to go there by car. Shuttles (tuk-tuks in short) are available if you do not want to do it on foot. Note that motorbikes can take this path to the summit.

A good thing about this cave is that it is free to visit. And as is often the case in Thailand, more than just a “simple” cave, it is a real place of worship.

Popularized by King Mongkut (Rama IV), who reigned between 1851 and 1868 and made this cave his preferred location for practicing meditation and studying Buddhism.

The main Buddha statue you will see as you descend the stairs leading to the cave, was added by Rama V, in honor of his predecessors Rama III and Rama IV.

In total, there are no less than 170 Buddha statues resting in this large complex of 3 rooms, reaching 27m in height. One of its statues is an important representation, a reclining Buddha (having reached Nirvana) 5m long.

Finally, its particularity is its play of light. Especially in the morning (ideally around 11am but also in the evening around 17pm apparently), the cave lets the sun's rays pass through (when it is there 😉 ) via different natural gaps in the rock of the ceiling.

Add to that the incense and it really is a special atmosphere that awaits you in these places.

3- Khao Wang Summer Palace (Phra Nakhon Khiri)

Khao Wang means the hill with the palace. King Mongkut (Rama IV) fell in love with this region and decided to build a summer palace there, which was completed in 1860. And it was on top of this 100 m hill that he had it built.

In fact, it is a complex of buildings including a temple, with its pagodas and other chedis, as well as royal reception rooms, a museum and other buildings that are part of a historical park, the Phra Nakhon Khiri Historical Park. Some of the buildings are in a classical Thai style, while others are strongly influenced by the neo-classical European or Chinese style.

The site overlooks the city, which in itself makes the visit interesting for the view it offers.

Just like at the cave, expect to be greeted by monkeys. Arriving at the parking lot, we could see some crocodile stuffed animals on the roofs of the cars, the monkeys being afraid of them… (it seems that this keeps at least 40% of them away).

The visit is spread over 3 ridges from which the hill is formed.

Western Ridge

This is where you will arrive if you take the cable car to the top (40 baht return, paid separately from the entrance fee). King Mongkut's Palace is located on the western tip. This is where the king had his personal living quarters.

The Phra Thi Nang Phet Phum Phairot Throne Hall, the largest building in the Palace, houses a bedroom, a dining room and a dressing room. Inside are exhibits of personal items from the period.

Another important building is the Phra Thi Nang Pramot Mahaisawan, which is believed to have been used as the queen's personal quarters.

There is also a Prang, the Phra Thi Nang Wetchayan Prasat. A typical building style in the Khmer architecture of Cambodia.

The Ho Chatchawan Wiang Chai is a tower used by King Mongkut as an observatory. The king was very interested in science, innovation and astronomy and was known as "the Father of Thai Science".

Around it were several small buildings that were used as stables, quarters for guards and servants and a kitchen. The palace was protected by a fort on each corner of the complex.

Central ridge

On the central peak is a 40-meter-high white chedi called Phra That Chom Phet. This chedi is believed to contain relics of the Buddha. Due to its central location, this peak is an excellent place to admire the Royal Palace on the western peak and the temple on the eastern peak in the distance.

Eastern Ridge

This is where you will find the temple with the unoriginal name, Wat Phra Kaew. It's normal if the name seems familiar to you, it's the same as the royal temple of the Grand Palace in Bangkok.

One difference, however, is the red pagoda, which is very recognizable and can be seen from afar.

– Note that if you are interested in old palaces, there is another one in Phetchaburi, the Phra Ram Ratchaniwet Palace (also known as Ban Puen Palace). Its construction began in 1909. Ordered by King Rama V, he unfortunately never had the opportunity to stay there since he died in 1910 while the construction was completed in 1916.

Phra Ram Ratchaniwet Palace (photo credit Wikipedia)

4- The temples of Phetchaburi

Of course, like any good city in Thailand, Phetchaburi has its share of temples. If you had to choose, the ancient royal temple Wat Mahathat Worrawihan would be one not to be missed.

Its central Khmer-style tower (called a Prang) stands out from other more "traditional" Chedi. Its construction dates back to the period of the Sukhothai Kingdom (so at least 800 years ago!).

Inside one of the buildings, you can see beautiful old wall paintings, a little damaged by the ravages of time.

Another suggestion is to take a tour of the Wat Yang temple complex. It has several buildings including a beautifully crafted wooden structure and a library set over the water.

Finally another option, the Wat Yai Suwannaram, a beautiful group of buildings including a very beautiful wooden building, all in length. We passed by it twice including at the end of the day, superb colors and sunset at that time!

There was also a temple not far from our guesthouse which had street art on its low walls, quite atypical and unexpected in this place!

5- The old wooden houses of Phetchaburi

This is what makes it charming. Phetchaburi still has many, many old wooden houses, most of which are a hundred years old or more. This is becoming rare in most cities, which tend to replace these old houses with new structures (which is particularly striking in Bangkok, even if the capital still has many old communities).

Walking the streets of Phetchaburi gives a slight feeling of going back in time, or at least a pleasant sensation of visiting what one might call "authentic Thailand".

From the market to the canal crossing the city, these small alleys, these houses with shops where you can feel the experience, these smiling inhabitants, Phetchaburi will charm you as much as I enjoyed wandering around and taking photos.

Once night falls, it's quiet, but it's still Thailand. So you can find your spots with street vendors offering all sorts of good things.

6- The beaches of Phetchaburi

Phetchaburi is not a seaside resort in the strict sense. And for good reason, the nearest beaches are 25km away. Even so, 25km is not a lot. So there is nothing to stop you from taking a little trip there.

Of course, don't expect the famous turquoise water beaches with white sand that Thailand is famous for. No. Here, just like a good part of the coast along the Gulf of Thailand, the waters are muddier and often take on a brown color as soon as the sea is even slightly rough.

A very deserted beach!

Something that few people know. It is possible to come and observe whales. Yes, yes, you read correctly. And I am not talking about the whale sharks that play into the hands of the divers of Ko Tao, no. Here, it is more precisely about Bryde's whale or tropical rorqual.

This cetacean, which, depending on whether it is male or female, will have a size varying between 12 and 15m long (for 16 to 18 tons) populates the north of the Gulf of Thailand. Between Samut Sakhon, Samut Songkhram and Phetchaburi, around twenty specimens have been observed, not counting the Irrawaddy dolphins which can also invite themselves into the area.

A trip to sea is not easy because it is now (a priori and fortunately) limited and regulated after an uncontrolled craze which had started to make them flee.

You can contact an association that regularly organizes outings, but we can't say that the way to book is the most practical. Chom Whales, plus you have to count 2000 baht per person.

On site, we were offered to go there by fishing boat but it cost 4000 baht for the boat. Knowing that there were only 2 of us, we preferred to postpone it until later. It can be profitable if you come with 4 or 5 people.

Overall, the seaside here offers a feeling of Thailand as we like it, which lives at its own pace, with people going about their business peacefully.

We enjoyed our stop just before the city, stopping for lunch late in the afternoon, in a boat that served as a restaurant. Only Thais, next to us, mangroves, monkeys, while the fishing boats went out to sea.

7- Salt marshes

If you are using independent transport, I invite you to leave the main road (#35) and turn left, following road #4012 from Bangkok. You will then find yourself following a pretty road for a while, notably through salt marshes.

A region that sometimes reminds me of the Vendée, which I know a little about having spent a lot of time in Noirmoutier.

Along the coast, you will see mangroves and can see monkeys. It is a landscape similar to that of Samut Songkhram, if you do not know, it is the region where the floating markets are located including that of Amphawa and Damnoen Saduak, 80km from Bangkok.

[BONUS] Kaeng Krachan National Park

If you are in the area, Phetchaburi is a good starting point to visit Kaeng Krachan National Park, about 50 km away. It is a relatively little visited park, because it is certainly less well served and developed than the more famous Khao Yai park, near Bangkok.

However, it has a large and varied fauna. It is particularly known for the observation of many birds but also butterflies (more than 400 species!). Otherwise, you can come across, among others, various mammals including monkeys such as langurs and gibbons, porcupines, civets, black giant squirrels, martens, etc.

Although rare, there are also tigers.

I haven't visited it myself yet, but it's still a park on my "to do" list. More information on this site in English.

How to get to Phetchaburi

From Bangkok, there is the possibility to get there from the Southern Terminal, the rapid buses are the blue and white ones (leaving from platform 6), tickets are normally bought via counter 89 and cost 112 baht at the latest news. These buses stop at the Phetchaburi bus terminal which is not far from a night market.

From Mo Chit, a terminal in the north of the city, there are vans that go to Phetchaburi for 120 baht. The disadvantage in this case is that it stops next to a Big C supermarket, 3km from the center, once there, the only means of transport are motorbike taxis, so it is better not to be too loaded with luggage.

By road, it takes around 2 hours.

If you have time, it is possible to get there by train. Phetchaburi is located on the railway line that goes down to the south of Thailand. Depending on the type of train (Ordinary, Rapid, Express etc.), the ticket will vary between 34 Baht and more than 250 Baht. It takes between 3h and 4h. See details on timetables and prices (in English)

On site, mainly tuk tuks, rickshaws (manual tricycles) and motorbike taxis.

Where to stay in Phetchaburi

We had chosen the White Monkey Guesthouse, very well located, in the heart of the old town, not far from the canal and for a very reasonable price (from 12€!)

Cheaper but very basic (from 170 Baht!), you have the JJ Home who has a good reputation.

Have you heard of Phetchaburi? Have you been there?