What to do in Nakhon Si Thammarat? A corner of the south still ignored by tourists

Have you heard of Nakhon Si Thammarat? You may have heard of it, or even passed through it—some people use this city, which has an airport, instead of Surat Thani to reach the islands in the Gulf of Thailand.

But the reality is that few travelers actually take the time to go down there... The entire peninsula between Surat Thani and Songkhla is relatively neglected. Aside from those heading to Ko Lipe, via Hat Yai, few people stop there.

However, Nakhon Si Thammarat province has quite a few selling points. It boasts beaches, many of which are deserted, as well as mountains, the main one being Khao Luang, which peaks at 1 m, and generally, a welcoming population, as it doesn't have the drawbacks of hyper-touristy areas.

It's also my wife's home region, which has allowed me to return several times, without pressure, over the years. And each time, I discover a new corner, new beaches, and a local atmosphere that remains unspoiled.

So, what's there to do in Nakhon Si Thammarat? Here's a rundown of places to see, villages to explore, and some ideas if you're feeling adventurous.

Nakhon Si Thammarat City

The city itself, let's be honest, isn't particularly attractive, like many provincial towns. It can be summed up as two large parallel arteries that stretch out in length, residential neighborhoods with no particular charm, and traffic that isn't always pleasant.

But if you are curious and take the time to stroll around a bit, you will still find some points of interest, starting with Wat Phra Mahathat Woramahawihan.

Wat Mahathat: an important temple

Wat Phra Mahathat Woramahawihan , more simply known as Wat Mahathat , is a major Buddhist site in the south, and one of the twelve most sacred temples in Thailand . It is also one of the oldest still in use. Founded in the 13th century, it is best known for its large Sri Lankan-style stupa, whose golden spire reaches a height of 56 meters.

At certain times of the year, large processions are held here, attracting worshippers from all over the region (see box below). And if you catch the right day, you can even access the upper platform, which allows you to walk around the chedi.

The cloister surrounding the main structure is lined with a series of Buddha statues, many of which are covered in gold leaf applied by worshippers. The temple pillars are decorated with paintings depicting scenes from the Ramakien , the Thai version of the Ramayana.

Around the stupa, you will find several secondary buildings — including several viharns — but what particularly distinguishes this temple is the multiplication of small chedis encircling the main one, giving the whole a real graphic charm.

Even if you're not a temple enthusiast, it's worth the trip. The atmosphere is peaceful, and admission is free for all.

Note that there is a small group of temples in the area: just opposite, you will find Wat Na Phra Borommathat , and just south of Wat Mahathat, Wat Na Phra Lan.

Baan Tan Khun Ratwut Vicharn

Literally directly opposite Wat Mahathat, you can see a beautiful period house with a teakwood upper section. Baan Tan Khun Ratwut Vicharn , built in 1902, belonged to a local noble family. It served as a school for many years before falling into disrepair, then was restored in the 1990s by descendants of the original owner.

Today, it's a small, unpretentious house-museum , but interesting to visit if you enjoy the atmosphere of yesteryear. Inside, you'll find a few period photographs , antique furniture , and explanations about the family and the history of the place. Nothing very interactive, but the whole thing has a certain charm, especially if you're already in the area.

Suchart Subsin Shadow Puppetry Museum

Also known as Ban Nang Talung , this museum is dedicated to the traditional art of Nang Talung , the shadow puppet theater of southern Thailand. Used to tell Thai legends to the sound of traditional music, these leather puppets are an integral part of the local cultural heritage.

Founded by Suchart Subsin , a nationally renowned artist, the museum presents a vast collection of puppets , musical instruments, and documents related to the world of puppetry. It also houses antique equipment, rare objects, and even pieces from other countries where this art is practiced (China, India, Indonesia, Turkey, etc.).

This is the last “attraction” in the city I've visited to date. I'd tended to put it off, knowing that I regularly return to Nakhon Si (shorthand for short). Unfortunately, I waited a little too long, and I didn't get the chance to meet the artist himself, who passed away in 2015.

Upon arrival, you are greeted by the welcome shade of a large banyan tree, and the first house comes into view: this is where Suchart Subsin lived and worked. Inside, you can discover finely cut leather puppets and observe the creative process , from design to cutting, including tanning and painting.

On the day of our visit, an elderly woman was applying colors to a puppet, while another craftsman began the cutting work. After transferring an elephant motif using a template , he hand-carved each detail of the leather.

From the courtyard, you can reach another house. You will find the heart of the museum: the collection of puppets , performance objects and some antiques , some of which date back to 1795!

In short, it's a small, unpretentious but genuine family museum that showcases an important aspect of southern culture. Entry is free , but you can support the museum by purchasing a souvenir.

Note: On certain days, the museum organizes shadow puppet shows . A participation fee of 100 baht is requested to attend — a beautiful way to experience the art you have just discovered.

Other places to explore in the city

To complete your visit to the city center, I also recommend checking out the markets . There are several, each with its own unique atmosphere:

• Le Talat Nat Khang Sala Klang (ตลาดนัด ข้างศาลากลาง), an open-air market located next to the provincial town hall. Very lively, you can find street food, clothing, gadgets... The atmosphere is very local.

• Le Tha Ma Market (ตลาดท่าม้า), smaller but very typical. It's a covered neighborhood market: fresh produce, meat, fish, spices, and a few stalls for quick bites. It's a place I've visited before because it's not far from my family's home.
• Le Municipality Market Tha Sak (ตลาดสดเทศบาลท่าสะท้อน), more central, is a good daytime option for diving into popular Nakhon. This is where the family does the big shopping for the Chinese New Year.

• And in the evening, if you're looking for a snack in a relaxed atmosphere, head to the Lang Dao Night Market (ตลาดหลังดาว), a small night market with a few food and clothing stalls. Not very touristy, but nice for a cheap dinner.

As for urban curiosities, the former site of Nakhon Si Thammarat prison has been transformed into a park: Si Thammasokarat Public Park . A few watchtowers and sections of wall remain, with a rather unexpected feature: they are… pink. You are standing next to the old city walls. They aren't spectacular ruins, but they give you a glimpse into the city's historical past.

Heading towards the southern exit of the city, you will come across the Nakhon Si Thammarat National Museum . Built in the 1970s, it is a rather uninspiring building but houses an interesting collection on the history and culture of the south—from prehistory to the 20th century.

It houses artifacts unearthed from excavations in the seven southern provinces, ancient religious statues, handicrafts, and a few rare pieces. There is an entrance fee (200 baht) . If you enjoy quiet, well-stocked museums, this is a visit worth considering—especially if you have a rainy day to fill.

Finally, for a greener break, you can take a stroll in one of the city's few green spaces: Suan Sanam Chalerm Phrakiat R9 – Phrom Na Nakhon Uthit (สวนสาธารณะเฉลิมพระเกียรติ ร.9). It's a public park popular with joggers at the end of the day, as well as families who come to relax.

Beaches and fishing villages

Nakhon Si Thammarat province stretches along over 130 km of coastline, overlooking the Gulf of Thailand. Little tourist-friendly, this coastal area alternates between quiet beaches, mangroves, and small fishing villages. You won't find beach bars or rows of deckchairs here, but if you enjoy quiet corners and deserted expanses, you'll probably be well catered for.

Khanom

Ao Khanom Bay encompasses the entire northern part of Nakhon Si Thammarat province. While Khanom Beach exists, each area has its own specific name. Some beaches are bordered by hills, such as Khwaeng Phao Beach in the north , or Nai Phlao Beach in the far south, offering a more intimate setting. The main part of Khanom is a long stretch of beach extending over 7 km.

All in all, this district offers the most amenities and a resort-like atmosphere , primarily catering to Thai visitors. You'll find several resorts, restaurants, and cafes along the beachfront. Its relative popularity is likely due to its proximity to the neighboring province of Surat Thani, home to Ko Samui in the nearby Gulf. Some travelers seeking tranquility choose Khanom to escape the hustle and bustle of the Gulf.

In fact, a French couple opened a small resort there a few years ago, Le Petit Saint Tropez . I don't know if it's still owned by the same people, but I'm mentioning it here because it might interest some: a small, quiet setting, right on the water, perfect for relaxing for a while.

Beyond the beaches, northern Khanom also boasts some interesting natural and maritime attractions . One of these is the Coral Pagoda (เจดีย์ปะการัง), perched atop the small hill of Khao That and constructed from fossilized coral. It is reached via a short climb, and the view from the summit offers an unobstructed panorama of the bay opposite.

Other attractions in the area include Khao Wang Thong cave, located 17,5 km from Nai Plao beach, the most popular beach in Khanom.

Heading back down towards the sea, particularly towards Cape Prathap or Talet Bay , you can embark on a boat trip to observe the famous pink dolphins that inhabit the calm waters of the nearby gulf. These same docks also sometimes serve as departure points for some of the islands—because yes, there are islands in Nakhon Si Thammarat too.

This is definitely not the place to go for relaxation: these islands are completely wild and uninhabited . The largest is Ko Tha Rai , while the others, smaller, are Ko Noi and Ko Nui —the latter home to a small shrine perched in the center of the island. From the same starting points, it's also possible to reach some islands in the gulf, such as Ko Rap , Ko Tan , or Ko Mat Sum , located just opposite, on the Surat Thani side.

Sichon

Heading a little further south, you arrive at Sichon , a district that encompasses both the coastal area and part of the mountains located inland.

Just like Khanom, Sichon is divided into several beaches. The main part consists of two long stretches of sand: the first to the north, about 6 km long, and the second, even longer, extending over 10 km. Between the two lies Sichon Beach itself, smaller but used as a central landmark.

Note that there is now a superb coastal road linking Khanom to Sichon , which crosses a hill within the Hat Khanom – Mu Ko Thale Tai National Park . The road itself is almost worth the detour, as it offers beautiful panoramas.

Otherwise, in Sichon, you'll certainly find a few resorts and cafes scattered along the coast, but overall it remains relatively unspoiled. There are still beautiful stretches of deserted beaches , sometimes lined with coconut palms. The liveliest area is in the north, near the secluded Phlai Dam Beach , where you could find a great spot to relax for a few hours: the HuuLaa Beachclub Sichon.

If you're in the area, it's hard to miss Wat Chedi (Ai Khai) — วัดเจดีย์ (ไอ้ไข่) , a temple now famous throughout the country. It owes its renown to the figure of Ai Khai , a young spirit revered for his ability to grant wishes. As a result, the place is constantly bustling with crowds of devotees who come to make offerings, pray, and give thanks by lighting firecrackers or offering statues… of roosters!

And this is perhaps the most striking image of the site: thousands of resin roosters, of all sizes and colors, lined up around the temple. A colorful jumble, it has become emblematic of Wat Chedi, which is constantly changing as buildings are added. It's definitely not a peaceful spot, but it remains a fascinating example of popular fervor in Thailand.

Tha Sala

If you continue a little further south, towards Tha Sala , you'll find even more secluded beaches . There isn't much infrastructure, but you can still find a few cafes, restaurants, and small resorts around Bo Non Beach.

Beyond that point, it's just the sea, sand, and often, no one in sight. On one occasion, we stopped near Ban Nai Thung , a Muslim village whose inhabitants live off fishing. There, we met fishermen returning from sea , while their wives were untangling their nets.

Next door was a bustling fish shop, specializing in shrimp and crab . These kinds of moments might seem unassuming, but that's what gives the place its charm.

For those who enjoy driving aimlessly and stopping where the road meets the sea, this is a great spot to explore. It doesn't promise anything special , but it gives you the feeling of being somewhere no one ever thinks to go, and that's just fine.

Pak Phanang and Laem Talumphuk Peninsula

Pak Phanang , located southeast of Nakhon Si Thammarat, is known for producing a unique delicacy… During your stay in Thailand, you might come across small baskets filled with jars containing a kind of translucent jelly. This is a popular drink in Asia, believed to have numerous health benefits… and it's made from… swallows' nests ! These nests are themselves created using the bird's saliva, and harvesting them has become a real business.

Here in Pak Phanang, rather than risking an acrobatic harvest (the nests are traditionally retrieved from cliff faces or caves), they literally build swallow buildings : large, gray (not exactly attractive) structures designed solely for the birds to nest in. Once the nests are collected, they are then sold for exorbitant prices to make these famous drinks.

A little further along lies the Laem Talumphuk peninsula . It's a peaceful spot, perfect for a stroll or lunch by the sea. About 6 km from the tip of the cape and its viewpoint, you'll find a small cluster of seafood restaurants renowned in the region, located along the edge of Talumphuk Cape Beach.

This part of the coastline remains relatively uncrowded. But if you are in the area, it's a good idea to make a detour, if only to discover another side of the South, between local traditions and a peaceful life by the water.

Slightly further south of the peninsula, you'll find other beaches, mostly deserted, except for a few fishermen we pass putting their boats under a makeshift shelter. The whole place is lined with coconut trees. So yes, they're not the heavenly beaches we imagine, but they're all for us!

Coastal viewpoint in Pak Nakhon

If you explore the other side of Laem Talumphuk Cape , just a few kilometers east of the city in the Pak Nakhon area, you'll find a long concrete jetty extending into the bay. This spot, known locally as " จุดชมวิวอ่าวเมืองนครฯ" , offers a lovely view of the coastline, which is covered in mangroves in this area.

It's a quiet, simple but pleasant spot, perfect for a short break at the end of the day. That's when we used to go there, seeing families dining outside on their terraces, or the village kids getting into trouble. The access runs along a canal where there are houses on stilts and fishing boats.

To conclude this section on the seaside , I would say that the Nakhon Si Thammarat coastline, with its 130 km of shores, alternates between deserted beaches, small harbors, discreet villages, and a few mangrove areas. It's a quiet seaside, free from large-scale developments and mass tourism. Just simple landscapes, a tranquil atmosphere, and the feeling of having all the space to yourself.

Khao Luang Mountain and Kiriwong Village

A beautiful mountain, one might say, like so many others. But Khao Luang has something special about it. Perhaps because it remains relatively uncrowded, especially during the week, or perhaps because of its lush nature and the smiles of the locals.

The mountain is part of Khao Luang National Park , a vast protected area covering a central part of the province, renowned for its biodiversity, dense forests and above all… its many waterfalls.

In the vicinity of Khiriwong village, there are several small waterfalls that are freely accessible, without an entrance fee. For example, my nephews and nieces and I stopped one day at Wang Mai Pak Waterfall , which was perfect for a relaxing family afternoon. Nothing spectacular, but a very pleasant natural spot for a picnic and a refreshing dip.

Nestled in the hollow of the mountain, the village of Khiriwong is worth a visit. Not so much for its remarkable architecture (which it isn't), but rather because it's renowned for its fruit production—mangosteen, durian, rambutan, and pakria (sator)—and it's also a village of artisans. Several groups specialize in: fruit juices and wines, jams (yes, even durian), natural dyes, weaving from coconut fibers, and more.

The community is even recognized in Thailand as an example of sustainable tourism. It was awarded an award in 1998 by the Tourism Office for its ecological and community management.

In addition to discovering beautiful nature, you can also observe the local way of life, interact with the locals, and taste some homemade specialties. A simple but charming experience.

Thung Song: nature, waterfalls and local atmosphere

Located in the southwest of the province, Thung Song district is relatively undiscovered. It is home to Namtok Yong National Park , known for its river and waterfall, at the foot of which lies a large natural pool. It's a popular spot for Thai families on weekends and hot summer days to picnic and cool off.

The area also houses a small spiritual site, Putthasathan Tham Talod , a cave converted into a sanctuary with several Buddha statues, including a reclining Buddha.

It's worth noting that other waterfalls are located nearby, such as Nan Plio Waterfall or Wang Pring Waterfall , but they are more difficult to access. I had actually tried to go to the latter, but the road eventually climbed steeply and became a dirt track. With my car at the time, I didn't dare go any further… But the drive itself was pleasant: bordered by the river and rubber plantations, it was already a lovely walk.

I talk in more detail about this nature getaway in a dedicated article: Nature and waterfalls, a relaxing moment in Thung Song.

Khlong Daen Market: a “floating” market spanning two provinces

To complete this exploration of the province's lesser-known corners, don't miss Khlong Daen Market , an unusual market located on the border between Nakhon Si Thammarat and Songkhla . Its unusual aspect? Part of the market is in one province, the other in another. Bisected by a canal, it is sometimes described as a "floating" market, even though the stalls are firmly set up on dry land on both sides of the water.

Unfortunately, the latter is only open on Saturdays. So when we went there, it was particularly quiet. But a few shops were open, and the place is very photogenic.

It's lined with plenty of wooden houses, some of which are set back and feature traditional southern Thai architecture: multi-sided roofs, carved ornaments beneath the ledges, and a structure made entirely of wood and raised on stilts. This type of building, halfway between a southern Thai house and local Muslim influences, gives a crazy charm to this somewhat timeless market.

It turns out that this part of the market is in " Songkhla" . Walking just a few hundred meters, a small bridge spanning the canal brought us back to the " Nakhon Si Thammarat" side , near a local temple: Wat Khlong Daen . A modest temple, but its surroundings give it a certain charm.

The main viharn remains classical in structure, but it is surrounded by well-kept gardens and several old buildings, both wooden and concrete. One of the buildings, with its light-colored walls and two-tiered red roof, evokes a rather unusual hybrid of colonial-Thai architecture.

A temple that doesn't look like much, but has a real local atmosphere. There's no one in sight, except for a few monks going about their business.

How to get to Nakhon Si Thammarat

Having returned so often, I've had the opportunity to try out every means of transportation to get here: plane, bus, train... and even my own car. Here's a quick overview to help you choose.

By plane

This is obviously, by far, the fastest and easiest.

• Duration : 1h15 flight from Bangkok (Don Mueang)
• Companies : AirAsia, Nok Air and Thai Lion Air
• Arrival airport : Nakhon Si Thammarat International Airport (NST)
• Average price : 800 to 1 baht depending on the period

Ideal for avoiding long hours of driving. Flights are frequent, with morning and evening departures. And although the airport already held the title of "international," it recently underwent a facelift: new infrastructure, a modern building, and increased regional ambitions.

By bus

This is the most economical option and a good compromise if you want to travel overnight without breaking the bank.

• Duration : 12 to 13 hours of travel
• Start time : Bangkok South Terminal (Southern Bus Terminal / Sai Tai Mai)
• Check-in : Nakhon Si Thammarat Bus Station, located less than 2 km from the center
• Companies : Transport Co Ltd and other private lines (often terminating in Hat Yai or Songkhla)
• Average price :
  • Second class : 450 – 500 baht
  • First class : 550 – 650 baht

The night bus route is the most common. The bus is air-conditioned, often equipped with reclining seats and a snack. The route usually continues to Hat Yai or Songkhla, so check the stops along the way.

By train

It turns out that the year we went there by bus on the way there, we opted for the train on the way back. So I tried the night train in the direction Nakhon Si Thammarat → Bangkok. But no matter the direction, let's not lie, it's not the fastest... We left at 15 p.m. and arrived the next day at 7 a.m., a journey of 16 hours at the time (the network has improved since then, it's normally doable in "only" 14 hours).

• Duration : allow 15 hours to allow for some leeway
• Start time : Bang Sue Grand Station, aka Krung Thep Aphiwat
• Check-in : Nakhon Si Thammarat Station
• Price : from 450 to 1 baht (depending on class)

It's long, but it's a real old-fashioned adventure. We admire the landscapes during the day, we observe the scenes of life in the stations or along the tracks, and we fall asleep as best we can to the sound of the train.

If you're unsure which line to take, train number 85 is still the best choice. It offers air-conditioned 1st and 2nd class carriages (with sleeping berths), and the carriages are generally newer and better maintained. This also explains the slightly higher fare compared to other trains (such as numbers 167 or 171).

You can book your tickets (train or bus) in advance here:

By car

I've already driven the route myself several times, just to have more freedom.

• Distance : approximately 780 km from Bangkok
• Duration : 11 a.m. to 13 p.m. depending on breaks and traffic
• Route : via national road 4 (Phetkasem) then 41 and finally 401 via Prachuap Khiri Khan, Chumphon and Surat Thani
• Benefit : flexibility to take steps

Leaving Bangkok can be tricky, but when the highway over the infamous Rama II Road is completed, it will simplify this part of the journey. This is still ideal if you're traveling as a couple or family and like to take your time. In my case, making this journey was an opportunity to stop in stages.

This not only allows you to split up the journey, but also to vary the atmosphere between sea, mountains and nature.

Where to sleep in Nakhon Si Thammarat

I've only had the chance to stay overnight in the city once, as I usually stay with my wife's family… It was at the Baan Supannikar Boutique Hotel , a small, motel-like establishment, but very well located in the city and in a quiet area. Excellent value for money, clean and comfortable—what more could you ask for!

If you're looking for a quiet beach getaway and don't mind being a little isolated, head to the Khanom Sea Beach Resort, 100 km north of the city. It's best to have a car, but it's a great option for a rather chic accommodation north of Khanom.

Otherwise I can only encourage you to do a little research here 😉

Why is it worth the detour?

As you can see, Nakhon Si Thammarat combines this clever blend of authenticity, varied landscapes, strong culture, and vibrant traditions. But what's also striking here is the welcoming atmosphere of the people. In this region, which is still relatively uncrowded by foreigners, the locals are often warm, curious, and cheerful—a real pleasure when you take the time to chat.

Even if you've already visited the major attractions of Nakhon Si Thammarat, you might still be surprised by other, lesser-known places that are well worth a visit. I'm thinking in particular of Uthayan Phra Puthha Sasana , a stunning park with its open-air Buddha statues, much loved by photographers for its surreal atmosphere. Or Wat Phra Thang Sam Chang , a temple that's active year-round but especially lively during the Vegetarian Festival , a major celebration in southern Thailand.

If these are the kind of “ingredients” you’re looking for, then I invite you to take a look… and tell me what you think!