What to do in Nakhon Si Thammarat? A corner of the south still ignored by tourists

Have you heard of Nakhon Si Thammarat? You may have heard of it, or even passed through it—some people use this city, which has an airport, instead of Surat Thani to reach the islands in the Gulf of Thailand.

But the reality is that few travelers actually take the time to go down there... The entire peninsula between Surat Thani and Songkhla is relatively neglected. Aside from those heading to Ko Lipe, via Hat Yai, few people stop there.

However, Nakhon Si Thammarat province has quite a few selling points. It boasts beaches, many of which are deserted, as well as mountains, the main one being Khao Luang, which peaks at 1 m, and generally, a welcoming population, as it doesn't have the drawbacks of hyper-touristy areas.

It's also my wife's home region, which has allowed me to return several times, without pressure, over the years. And each time, I discover a new corner, new beaches, and a local atmosphere that remains unspoiled.

So, what's there to do in Nakhon Si Thammarat? Here's a rundown of places to see, villages to explore, and some ideas if you're feeling adventurous.

Nakhon Si Thammarat City

The city itself, let's be honest, isn't particularly attractive, like many provincial towns. It can be summed up as two large parallel arteries that stretch out in length, residential neighborhoods with no particular charm, and traffic that isn't always pleasant.

But if you are curious and take the time to wander around a bit, you will still find some points of interest, starting with the Wat Phra Mahathat Woramahawihan.

Wat Mahathat: an important temple

Le Wat Phra Mahathat Woramahawihan, more simply called Wat Mahathat, is a high place of Buddhism in the south, and even one of the Twelve most sacred temples in ThailandIt is also one of the oldest still in operation. Founded in the 13th century, it is best known for its large Sri Lankan-style stupa, whose golden spire rises to 56 meters.

At certain times of the year, large processions are held here, attracting worshippers from all over the region (see box below). And if you catch the right day, you can even access the upper platform, which allows you to walk around the chedi.

The cloister surrounding the main structure is lined with a series of Buddha statues, many of which are covered in gold leaf applied by worshippers. The temple pillars are decorated with paintings depicting scenes from the Ramakien, the Thai version of the Ramayana.

Around the stupa you will find several secondary buildings — including several viharns — but what particularly distinguishes this temple is the multiplication of small chedis surrounding the main one, giving the whole a real graphic charm.

Even if you're not a temple enthusiast, it's worth the trip. The atmosphere is peaceful, and admission is free for all.

Note that there is a small group of temples nearby: just opposite, you will find the Wat Na Phra Borommathat, and just south of Wat Mahathat, the Wat Na Phra Lan.

Facade of Wat Na Phra Borommathat.

Baan Tan Khun Ratwut Vicharn

Literally right across from Wat Mahathat, you can see a beautiful period house with the upper part made of teak wood. Baan Tan Khun Ratwut Vicharn, built in 1902, belonged to a local noble family. It served as a school for a long time before being abandoned and then restored in the 1990s by descendants of the original owner.

Today is a small house-museum unpretentious, but interesting to visit if you like old-fashioned atmospheres. Inside, there are some vintage photos, Antique furniture and explanations about the family and the history of the place. Nothing very interactive, but the whole thing has a certain charm, especially if you're already in the area.

Suchart Subsin Shadow Puppetry Museum

Also called Ban Nang Talung, this museum is dedicated to the traditional art of Nang Talung, the shadow theater of southern Thailand. Used to tell Thai legends to the sound of traditional music, these leather puppets are an integral part of the local cultural heritage.

Founded by Suchart Subsin, a nationally recognized artist, the museum presents a extensive collection of puppets, musical instruments and documents related to the world of these shows. There is also old equipment, rare objects, and even pieces from other countries where this art is practiced (China, India, Indonesia, Turkey, etc.).

This is the last “attraction” in the city I've visited to date. I'd tended to put it off, knowing that I regularly return to Nakhon Si (shorthand for short). Unfortunately, I waited a little too long, and I didn't get the chance to meet the artist himself, who passed away in 2015.

Upon arrival, you are greeted by the welcome shade of a large banyan tree, and the first house presents itself to you: this is where Suchart Subsin lived and worked. There you will discover finely carved leather puppets, and you can observe the creation process, from design to cutting, including tanning and painting.

On the day we visited, an elderly woman was applying colors to a puppet, while another craftsman began the cutting work. After transferring an elephant motif using a template, he hand-carved every detail of the leather.

From the courtyard, you can reach another house. You will find the heart of the museum: the puppet collection, show objects and some antiques, some of which date back to 1795!

In short, it is a small family museum, unpretentious but sincere, which highlights an important part of southern culture. The entrance is for free, but you can support the place by buying a souvenir.

Please note: on certain days, the museum organizes shadow shows. A participation of 100 baht is requested to attend — a great way to bring to life the art you have just discovered.

Other places to explore in the city

To complete a visit to the center, I also advise you to take a tour of the marketsThere are several, each with its own atmosphere:

• Le Talat Nat Khang Sala Klang (ตลาดนัด ข้างศาลากลาง), an open-air market located next to the provincial town hall. Very lively, you can find street food, clothing, gadgets... The atmosphere is very local.

• Le Tha Ma Market (ตลาดท่าม้า), smaller but very typical. It's a covered neighborhood market: fresh produce, meat, fish, spices, and a few stalls for quick bites. It's a place I've visited before because it's not far from my family's home.
• Le Municipality Market Tha Sak (ตลาดสดเทศบาลท่าสะท้อน), more central, is a good daytime option for diving into popular Nakhon. This is where the family does the big shopping for the Chinese New Year.

• And in the evening, if you're looking for a snack in a relaxed atmosphere, head to the Lang Dao Night Market (ตลาดหลังดาว), a small night market with a few food and clothing stalls. Not very touristy, but nice for a cheap dinner.

As for urban curiosities, the former site of the Nakhon Si Thammarat Prison has been transformed into a park: the Si Thammasokarat Public ParkThere are still a few watchtowers and sections of wall, with a rather unexpected feature: they are... pink. You are here next to the old city walls. They are not spectacular remains, but they give an idea of the city's historical past.

That's to say, the only photo I have is old! It wasn't repainted pink yet, and above all, there's still a phone booth visible!

As you head towards the southern exit of the city, you will come across the Nakhon Si Thammarat National Museum (National Museum). Built in the 1970s, it is a rather unattractive building but houses an interesting collection on the history and culture of the South—from prehistory to the XNUMXth century.

It features objects from excavations in the seven southern provinces, ancient religious statues, handicrafts, and some rare pieces. The entrance is paid (200 baht)If you like quiet, well-stocked museums, this is a stop worth considering—especially if you have a rainy day to fill.

Finally, for a greener break, you can take a stroll in one of the city's few green spaces: the Suan Sanam Chalerm Phrakiat R9 – Phrom Na Nakhon Uthit (สวนสาธารณะเฉลิมพระเกียรติ ร.9). It is a public park popular with joggers at the end of the day, but also with families who come to relax there.

Beaches and fishing villages

Nakhon Si Thammarat province stretches along over 130 km of coastline, overlooking the Gulf of Thailand. Little tourist-friendly, this coastal area alternates between quiet beaches, mangroves, and small fishing villages. You won't find beach bars or rows of deckchairs here, but if you enjoy quiet corners and deserted expanses, you'll probably be well catered for.

Khanom

Ao Khanom Bay encompasses the entire northern part of Nakhon Si Thammarat province. While Khanom Beach exists, depending on its location, you have specific names for each area. Some beaches are bordered by hills, such as Khwaeng Phao Beach in the north, or Nai Phlao Beach in the far south, offering a slightly more "intimate" setting, while the bulk of Khanom is a long strip of beach stretching for more than 7 km.

All in all, this is the district where you will find the most amenities and a seaside resort atmosphere, mainly aimed at Thai visitors. You will have A few beachfront resorts, restaurants, and cafes. Its relative popularity is likely due to its proximity to the neighboring province of Surat Thani, where Ko Samui is located in the nearby Gulf. Some travelers seeking peace and quiet choose Khanom to escape the hustle and bustle of the Gulf.

A stretch of beach north of Khanom.

Moreover, a French couple opened a small resort there a few years ago, the Little Saint TropezI don't know if it's still the same owners, but I'm mentioning it here because it might interest some people: a small, peaceful setting, right on the water, perfect for relaxing for a while.

Beyond the beaches, the north of Khanom also has some natural and maritime curiosities interesting. One of them is the Coral Pagoda (เจดีย์ปะการัง), perched on the small hill of Khao That and built from fossilized coral. It is reached by a short climb, and the view from the top offers a clear panorama of the bay who faces him. Other attractions in the area include Khao Wang Thong Cave, located 17,5 km from Nai Plao Beach, the most popular in Khanom.

Going back down towards the sea, especially on the side of the Prathap cape or Talet Bay, it is possible to embark to go and observe the famous pink dolphins, who live in the calm waters of the nearby gulf. These same docks also sometimes serve as a departure point for some islands — because yes, there are islands in Nakhon Si Thammarat too.

Chaiyathat, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

This is clearly not where you will go to laze around: they are totally wild and uninhabited. The largest is Ko Tha Rai, while the others, smaller ones, are Ko Noi et Ko Nui — the latter sheltering a small hilltop sanctuary in the center of the island. From the same starting points, it is also possible to reach some islands in the gulf such as Ko Rap, Ko Tan ou Ko Mat Sum, located just opposite, on the Surat Thani side.

Sichon

Going down a little further south, you arrive at Sichon, a district that encompasses both the coastal area and part of the mountains located inland.

Just like Khanom, Sichon is divided into several beaches. The main part is made up of two long strips of sand: the first to the north of about 6 km, then a second, even longer, which stretches for more than 10 km. Between the two is the beach of Sichon Beach strictly speaking, smaller but used as a central landmark.

Note that there is now a superb coastal road connecting Khanom to Sichon, which crosses a hill that is part of the national park of Hat Khanom – Mu Ko Thale TaiThe road itself is almost worth the detour, as it offers such beautiful panoramas.

Otherwise in Sichon, you will certainly find some scattered resorts and cafes along the coast, but the whole remains generally preserved. There are still beautiful stretches of deserted beaches, sometimes lined with coconut trees. The liveliest area is in the north, near the isolated beach of Phlai Dam Beach, where we found a good spot to relax for a few hours: the HuuLaa Beachclub Sichon.

If you are in the area, it is difficult to miss the Wat Chedi (Ai Khai) — Chedi Temple (Ai Khai), a temple now famous throughout the country. It owes its fame to the figure ofAi Khai, a young spirit revered for his ability to grant wishes. The result? The place is constantly bustling with crowds of worshippers who come to make offerings, pray, and give thanks by lighting firecrackers or offering statues... of roosters!

And this is perhaps the most striking image of the site: thousands of resin roosters, of all sizes and colors, lined up around the temple. A colorful jumble, it has become emblematic of Wat Chedi, which is constantly changing as buildings are added. It's definitely not a peaceful spot, but it remains a fascinating example of popular fervor in Thailand.

Tha Sala

If you continue a little further south, towards Tha Sala, you will come across others even more isolated beaches. There is not much structure, but we still find some cafes, restaurants and small resorts around Bo Non Beach.

Beyond that, it's just the sea, sand, and often, no one in sight. On one occasion, we stopped at the height of Ban Nai Thung, a Muslim village living from fishing. We had met fishermen there returned from sea, while their wives were untangling the nets.

Next door was a busy fish market, specializing in shrimp and crabsThis kind of moment doesn't look like much, but it's what makes the area so charming.

For those who love roll a little randomly and stop where the road touches the sea, it's a good area to explore. Without any particular promise, but with this feeling of being somewhere no one ever thinks of going, and that's very good.

Pak Phanang and Laem Talumphuk Peninsula

Mr. Phanang, located southeast of Nakhon Si Thammarat, is known for producing a particular delicacy… During your stay in Thailand, you might come across these small baskets filled with jars containing a kind of translucent jelly. It is a popular drink in Asia, supposed to have many virtues… and made from… swallows nest ! These nests are themselves created with the bird's saliva, and their harvest has become a real business.

Here in Pak Phanang, rather than risk an acrobatic harvest (nests are traditionally collected from cliff sides or in caves), we literally build swallow buildings : large gray buildings (not exactly pretty), designed solely for birds to nest in. Once the nests are collected, they are then sold at high prices for the production of these famous drinks.

A little further on is the Laem Talumphuk peninsula. It is a peaceful spot, ideal for a stroll or lunch by the sea. About 6 km from the end of the cape and its viewpoint, there is a small group of seafood restaurants renowned in the region, located on the edge of the beach of Talumphuk Cape Beach.

This corner of the coast remains little visited. But if you are in the area, it is a good idea to make a detour there, if only to discover another side of the South, between local traditions et quiet life by the water.

Slightly further south of the peninsula, you'll find other beaches, mostly deserted, except for a few fishermen we pass putting their boats under a makeshift shelter. The whole place is lined with coconut trees. So yes, they're not the heavenly beaches we imagine, but they're all for us!

Coastal viewpoint in Pak Nakhon

If you explore the other side of Laem Talumphuk Cape, just a few kilometers east of the city, in the Pak Nakhon (ปากนคร) area, there is a long concrete pontoon that juts out into the bay. This place, known locally as " จุดชมวิวอ่าวเมืองนครฯ », offers a beautiful panorama of the coastline, covered with mangroves on this part.

It's a quiet, simple but pleasant spot, perfect for a short break at the end of the day. That's when we used to go there, seeing families dining outside on their terraces, or the village kids getting into trouble. The access runs along a canal where there are houses on stilts and fishing boats.

To conclude this seaside section, I would say that the coastline of Nakhon Si Thammarat, with its 130 km of coastline, alternates deserted beaches, small ports, discreet villages and some mangrove areas. It is a seaside that does not make noise, without large developments or mass tourism. Just simple landscapes, a tranquil atmosphere, and this feeling of having all the space to oneself.

Khao Luang Mountain and Kiriwong Village

A beautiful mountain, one might say, like so many others. But Khao Luang has something special about it. Perhaps because it remains relatively uncrowded, especially during the week, or perhaps because of its lush nature and the smiles of the locals.

The mountain is part of the Khao luang national park, a vast protected area covering a central part of the province, renowned for its biodiversity, its dense forests and above all... its numerous waterfalls.

Mountain landscape in Khiriwong village.

In the vicinity of the village of Khiriwong, there are several small waterfalls that are freely accessible, without an entrance fee. For example, my nephews and nieces and I stopped one day at the Wang Mai Pak Waterfall, perfect for a relaxing afternoon with the family. Nothing spectacular, but a very nice natural spot for a picnic and a refreshing dip.

Nestled in the hollow of the mountain, the village of Khiriwong is worth a visit. Not so much for its remarkable architecture (which it isn't), but rather because it's renowned for its fruit production—mangosteen, durian, rambutan, and pakria (sator)—and it's also a village of artisans. Several groups specialize in: fruit juices and wines, jams (yes, even durian), natural dyes, weaving from coconut fibers, and more.

The community is even recognized in Thailand as an example of sustainable tourism. It was awarded an award in 1998 by the Tourism Office for its ecological and community management.

In addition to discovering beautiful nature, you can also observe the local way of life, interact with the locals, and taste some homemade specialties. A simple but charming experience.

Thung Song: nature, waterfalls and local atmosphere

Located in the southwest of the province, Thung Song is a relatively little-visited district. It includes the Namtok Yong National Park, known for its river and waterfall at the foot of which lies a large natural pool. It is a popular spot for Thai families on weekends and on hot summer days for picnics and cooling off.

The area also houses a small spiritual site, Putthasathan Tham Talod, a cave converted into a sanctuary with several Buddha statues, including a reclining Buddha.

Note that other waterfalls are located in the surrounding area, such as Nan Plio Waterfall ou Wang Pring Waterfall, but they are more difficult to access. I had actually tried to go as far as the latter, but the road ended up climbing to become a dirt track. With my car at the time, I hadn't dared to go any further... But the journey itself was nice: bordered by the river and rubber plantations, it was already a beautiful walk.

River towards Wang Pring Waterfall.

I talk about this nature getaway in more detail in a dedicated article: Nature and waterfalls, relaxing time in Thung Song.

Khlong Daen Market: a “floating” market spanning two provinces

To complete this exploration of the lesser-known corners of the province, don't miss the Khlong Daen Market, an unusual market located on the border between Nakhon Si Thammarat et SongkhlaThe unusual aspect? One part of the market is located in one province, the other in another. Crossed by a canal, it is sometimes presented as a "floating" market, even though the stalls are well established on dry land on both sides of the water.

Unfortunately, the latter is only open on Saturdays. So when we went there, it was particularly quiet. But a few shops were open, and the place is very photogenic.

It's lined with plenty of wooden houses, some of which are set back and feature traditional southern Thai architecture: multi-sided roofs, carved ornaments beneath the ledges, and a structure made entirely of wood and raised on stilts. This type of building, halfway between a southern Thai house and local Muslim influences, gives a crazy charm to this somewhat timeless market.

It turns out that in this part of the market, we are at " Songkhla ». Walking just a few hundred meters, a small bridge spanning the canal brought us back to the " Nakhon Si Thammarat », at the height of a local temple: the Wat Khlong DaenA modest temple, but whose surroundings give it a certain cachet.

The main viharn remains classical in structure, but it is surrounded by well-kept gardens and several old buildings, both wooden and concrete. One of the buildings, with its light-colored walls and two-tiered red roof, evokes a rather unusual hybrid of colonial-Thai architecture.

A temple that doesn't look like much, but has a real local atmosphere. There's no one in sight, except for a few monks going about their business.

How to get to Nakhon Si Thammarat

Having returned so often, I've had the opportunity to try out every means of transportation to get here: plane, bus, train... and even my own car. Here's a quick overview to help you choose.

By plane

This is obviously, by far, the fastest and easiest.

• Duration : 1h15 flight from Bangkok (Don Mueang)
• Companies : AirAsia, Nok Air and Thai Lion Air
• Arrival airport : Nakhon Si Thammarat International Airport (NST)
• Average price : 800 to 1 baht depending on the period

Ideal for avoiding long hours of driving. Flights are frequent, with morning and evening departures. And although the airport already held the title of "international," it recently underwent a facelift: new infrastructure, a modern building, and increased regional ambitions.

By bus

This is the most economical option and a good compromise if you want to travel overnight without breaking the bank.

• Duration : 12 to 13 hours of travel
• Start date : Bangkok South Terminal (Southern Bus Terminal / Sai Tai Mai)
• Check-in : Nakhon Si Thammarat Bus Station, located less than 2 km from the center
• Companies : Transport Co Ltd and other private lines (often terminating in Hat Yai or Songkhla)
• Average price :
  • Second class : 450 – 500 baht
  • First class : 550 – 650 baht

The night bus route is the most common. The bus is air-conditioned, often equipped with reclining seats and a snack. The route usually continues to Hat Yai or Songkhla, so check the stops along the way.

By train

It turns out that the year we went there by bus on the way there, we opted for the train on the way back. So I tried the night train in the direction Nakhon Si Thammarat → Bangkok. But no matter the direction, let's not lie, it's not the fastest... We left at 15 p.m. and arrived the next day at 7 a.m., a journey of 16 hours at the time (the network has improved since then, it's normally doable in "only" 14 hours).

• Duration : allow 15 hours to allow for some leeway
• Start date : Bang Sue Grand Station, aka Krung Thep Aphiwat
• Check-in : Nakhon Si Thammarat Station
• Price : from 450 to 1 baht (depending on class)

It's long, but it's a real old-fashioned adventure. We admire the landscapes during the day, we observe the scenes of life in the stations or along the tracks, and we fall asleep as best we can to the sound of the train.

If you're unsure which line to take, train number 85 is still the best choice. It offers air-conditioned 1st and 2nd class carriages (with sleeping berths), and the carriages are generally newer and better maintained. This also explains the slightly higher fare compared to other trains (such as numbers 167 or 171).

You can book your tickets (train or bus) in advance here:

By car

I've already driven the route myself several times, just to have more freedom.

• Distance : approximately 780 km from Bangkok
• Duration : 11 a.m. to 13 p.m. depending on breaks and traffic
• Route : via national road 4 (Phetkasem) then 41 and finally 401 via Prachuap Khiri Khan, Chumphon and Surat Thani
• Benefit : flexibility to take steps

Leaving Bangkok can be tricky, but when the highway over the infamous Rama II Road is completed, it will simplify this part of the journey. This is still ideal if you're traveling as a couple or family and like to take your time. In my case, making this journey was an opportunity to stop in stages.

This not only allows you to split up the journey, but also to vary the atmosphere between sea, mountains and nature.

Where to sleep in Nakhon Si Thammarat

I only had the opportunity to sleep in the city once, since I am otherwise hosted by my wife's family... It was at Baan Supannikar Boutique Hotel, a small motel-like establishment but it is very well located in the city and quiet. Excellent value for money, it is clean and comfortable, what more could you ask for!

If you're looking for a quiet beach getaway and don't mind being a little isolated, head to the Khanom Sea Beach Resort, 100 km north of the city. It's best to have a car, but it's a great option for a rather chic accommodation north of Khanom.

Otherwise I can only encourage you to do a little research here 😉

Why is it worth the detour?

As you can see, Nakhon Si Thammarat combines this clever blend of authenticity, varied landscapes, strong culture, and vibrant traditions. But what's also striking here is the welcoming atmosphere of the people. In this region, which is still relatively uncrowded by foreigners, the locals are often warm, curious, and cheerful—a real pleasure when you take the time to chat.

And even if you've already visited the classics of Nakhon Si Thammarat, you might still be surprised by other lesser-known places that are worth a visit. I'm thinking in particular of Uthayan Phra Puthha Sasana, an astonishing park with its open-air Buddha statues, very popular with photographers for its surreal atmosphere. Or even at Wat Phra Thang Sam Chang, a temple active all year round but particularly lively during the vegetarian festival, very celebrated in the south of Thailand.

If these are the kind of “ingredients” you’re looking for, then I invite you to take a look… and tell me what you think!