The main attraction of Thakhek is these rocky peaks, similar to those seen in the region of Vang Vieng as well as to these caves, scattered here and there, along this magnificent road crossing all of Laos from west to east to Vietnam, which is only 144 km away (at the closest, we were 128 km away). Thakhek is a small town typical of Laos, namely its local market, its old buildings in the colonial style and its tourist interest is growing since the opening at the end of 2011 of the 3rd Thai-Lao Friendship Bridge, these bridges offering a crossing point between Thailand (here, Nakhon Phanom) and Laos.
Welcome to Khammouane province
Here is the list of our visits of the day, the furthest point is only 16 km from Thakhek, but in total, it is almost 50 km that we covered in the region.
- Tham Xang, the elephant cave
- Tham Nong Pha Fa, the Buddha cave
- Tham Nang Aen Cave
- Bonus: Tha Falang
We rented for this day a semi-automatic motorcycle, price = 70 kip (280 baht or €6) We went to the first rental shop we came across, crossing the road from our hotel, it's a shop on the side of the square (opposite the side of our hotel), refer to the map at the bottom of the article. Note: There is a Chinese version (Zongshen), a copy of the version found in Thailand (the famous Honda Wave), we took the Chinese version because it was practically 2 times cheaper!! In addition to not really seeing the difference aesthetically speaking, it worked perfectly!
Honda on the left vs Zongshen on the right.
Tham Xang, the elephant cave
First stop, Tham Xang (which is Chang in Thai but the sound ch does not exist in Lao, that is one of the differences between Thai and Lao), the elephant cave. The story of this cave is that in the past the locals feared the place because of a limestone formation inside that looked like a kind of demonic monster's head, well it must be said that in a cave we often do guided tours with shapes on the stalagmites and stalactites like "so there you have the crocodile rock, there the three-humped camel etc" that's how it works.... But no, we took the shape seriously and it was even taboo to drink the water that flowed from the cave. In 1956, when the surrounding village of Ban Tham was gripped by an epidemic of something or other, the residents decided to destroy the "devil's head" with dynamite (no less, they don't do things by halves...).
The explosion of course shattered the rock in question, and another shape appeared elsewhere in the cave, and there it was in the shape of an elephant's head (oh yes, it's more aesthetic), and the health of the villagers improved. Since then, the elephant's head has been venerated, and the cave has become an important Buddhist sanctuary in the region. Pilgrims visit the site every year, usually around Lao New Year (as in Thailand, in April), sprinkling some water on the elephant's head and praying for good health.
Unusual info: It is worth noting that Japanese soldiers used bat droppings residing in this cave to make gunpowder during World War II, and in the 1960s and 1970s, villagers used the cave for shelter during the Indochina War.
Location: Located northeast of Thakhek, Tham Xang is the closest cave to the town. Follow Route 12 for 6 km then turn right (the cave is signposted), continue for 1 km on a dirt road to Ban Tham village. The cave is signposted, turn left at the entrance to the village, cross the stream via a small wooden bridge, doable by motorbike, but in the dry season, probably not visitable during the rainy season from May to October due to possible flooding, the alternative is to continue further on Route 12 (for 2,400m), another path leads in front of the cave.
At the entrance to the village of Ban Tham
View of the cliff where the Tham Xang cave is located and the river to cross.
We can see the entrance to the cave.
At the foot of the cave.
View from Tham Xang Cave.
The Buddhas in the Elephant Cave.
We took advantage of being in the area to visit the surroundings a bit, at first, I was looking for a viewpoint indicated on GMaps, but I ended up giving up since it seemed to lead into the sticks... So, I parked the motorbike under a tree, we took a small temporary bridge made of 2 pieces of planks and we went to see the local temple. Then a tour of the village, rather deserted given the heat.
Lots of kids around, adults working in the fields (we came across a few though). I'm still surprised even here to come across smartphones in the hands of some villagers (same in Savannakhet, already some addicts...) We stayed a little while chatting with kids playing in the temple, before finally returning to our motorbike and continuing our journey of the day.
Temporary bridge to span the river.
Garden at the temple in Ban Tham village.
Stupa at the temple in Ban Tham village.
The temple in Ban Tham village.
Kids in the temple.
Hut for the monks.
Weaving in progress at the temple in the village of Ban Tham (weaver on break?).
At the temple in Ban Tham village.
Tham Nong Pha Fa, the Buddha cave
It was only in 2004 that it was (D) discovered by a villager. Seeing bats rushing into a hole, he followed them (it’s a local culinary specialty…), climbing to the cliff at a height of 15 m (he must have been very hungry…). Peeking through the narrow entrance to the cave, he first saw a Buddha statue and upon entering, he was astonished to discover that it contained over 220 Buddha statues, ranging from a few cm to over 1 m in size.
At first disbelieving what he had seen, he told no one about it and only returned a week later with other villagers to check. It has since become a major tourist spot. The villagers protect the cave by guarding it 24/24! Photos are prohibited inside, but I can confirm that villagers were there! They even took a TV with them… If the origin of these statues remains rather vague (some would be of Khmer, Vietnamese origin), the reason for their presence here remains a mystery.
There is somewhere to eat and drink on site, not much choice, but we were hungry and especially thirsty given the overwhelming heat. There is also a market with souvenirs and other trinkets for sale, all next to the parking lot. The entry point where you have to pay the ticket is 220 m away.
The market near the cave.
Noodles, light meal.
Unless you prefer some good grilled frogs?
Little girls were selling all kinds of fruit.
It is possible to rent a boat and visit the interior of the cliff via the underground river.
Interior preview.
It's very narrow. You have to take off your shoes.
View from the cave entrance.
The name Pha Fa Cave comes from the nearby lake.
The cliff, you have to walk about 200 m (in full sun)
Tham Nang Aen Cave
If apparently in front of this cave there is a kind of mini zoo, what I noticed is that the place is popular with the Lao to come and have a picnic with family or friends. This cave was discovered by a Frenchman. Its particularity is to have an underground river, a little over 1 km long, which can be traveled by renting a boat with a guide. This is also the option we took. The cave is sometimes 30 m high, there are some interesting rock formations.
What we appreciated the most was being absolutely alone. Finding ourselves there in the middle of a cave with only the light of our little explorer torches on our foreheads was just a unique experience. It turns out that our guide was a young 15-year-old Thai, who had chosen to drop out of school to come and be a guide here (there are quite a few Thai people who come here, especially since the visit of a princess in 1987), which is almost paradoxical when you know that it is generally the Laotians who are looking for a new life in Thailand.
In total, the visit lasted 2 hours, the time to go back and forth to the other end of the cave, but also to explore this other end. A pile of large blocks of rock, which we suspect collapsed after a bombing in the region. The light is visible, but it is relatively dark. There are no facilities and it is sometimes a bit folkloric to progress along. But that is what makes the visit unique. The guide showed us pieces of cow bones placed there, we do not know why, different limestone formations typical of caves, sacred water flowing from the ceiling, etc.
As we go out, the sun begins to set, we have to hurry!
Bonus: Tha Falang
I mark it as a "bonus" because it is not a cave but a corner at the edge of the water that served as a picnic area during the Indochina era. Tha Falang literally means "mooring point of the French". Today it has mainly become a swimming spot but unfortunately we cannot say that the people are "friends of nature" as it was rather dirty... Not the river itself, no, and fortunately so, but the spot itself, a small piece of land and rock at the edge of the said river is strewn with cans, remains of campfires and papers... too bad.
Practical information
Where to sleep in Thakhek:
I had chosen the Inthira Hotel, especially for its rather good reviews even if it turns out that its location was also great.
Where to eat in Thakhek:
A bit out of laziness, we will mainly only eat at the restaurant of our hotel, it will not be for lack of trying! After all, I ate an excellent chocolate mousse there for dessert which you will tell me about! There were other restaurants, notably near the river, another one in the same street, but nothing that inspired us, and as after all, it was very good at Inthira and well my goodness… We will also have a “roti” (a kind of pancake, delicious!) in front of the square (which itself practically faces Inthira Hotel
Getting to Thakhek:
As mentioned, it is now possible to get to Thakhek from nearby Thailand, so you can take a plane from Bangkok (or elsewhere) to Nakhon Phanom and from there take a bus, the journey itself only takes an hour but you also have to take into account the time to cross the border (add about 1 hour).
Otherwise you can get there from Vientiane, the capital which is about 5 hours away by bus. In our case, we were coming from Savannakhet, the journey only takes about 3 hours (including stops).
Map with landmarks and routes taken to the different caves:
