Taking advantage of yet another stay with the in-laws in Nakhon Si Thammarat, and the fact that we had come down by car, we had ideal freedom of movement to occupy a free day by exploring the surroundings as we often do.
This time I chose a beautiful coastal road between Sichon and Khanom, photos of which I had been seeing on social media for some time. A scenic route between beaches, cafes and viewpoints, on a stretch of coast where the coastal road, developed in recent years with tourism in mind, almost becomes the visit in itself.
A gentle start to the day
It took us just under an hour's drive from Nakhon Si Thammarat to reach the Sichon area. But before starting our actual walk, given the time, we needed to refuel. I had spotted a restaurant by the sea that also served as a café upstairs.
Issara Cape: Lunch with a sea view
Shortly before arriving, we were already driving along a stretch of coastline, with parking available in the shade of some trees. It was a spot I was really tempted to visit for some photos, but knowing my wife, I prioritized the meal because, in Thailand, they don't mess around when it comes to filling your stomach.
So we arrive under a beautiful sun in the parking lot of this establishment, whose grounds occupy an entire headland right next to the main beach of Sichon.
A member of staff immediately approaches with umbrellas to avoid getting burned while walking the few dozen meters to the restaurant entrance, located on the other side of the parking lot.
This is a great example of the sense of service in Thailand, where they try to receive the customer in the best possible way.
Once seated, we ordered our meal, which took a little while to arrive despite the restaurant being nearly empty. The prices were reasonable and the meal was decent, though not particularly memorable. Afterwards, we decided to head upstairs, planning to grab a coffee.
But upon arriving at the location, a quick glance at the coffee beans visible in the grinder did not inspire confidence; they were too dark, a sign of over-roasting resulting in a taste that was too strong, so we gave up and looked for an alternative nearby.
Before that, we took the time to take some photos of the seafront at the foot of the restaurant, lined with palm trees and a few deck chairs allowing you to relax in the shade.
It's nicely laid out, even though there isn't really a beach per se, as the cape is mostly surrounded by rocks. There's also a jetty at the foot of the car park, overlooking Sichon beach, while a hotel construction project seemed to be underway right next door.
Blue Surf Café: Coffee break at Sichon Beach
True to our rhythm, and since the Issara wasn't suitable for that, we needed to find a spot for our coffee break before truly continuing the day.
A quick look on Google took us to Blue Surf, a cafe integrated into the Sichon Cabana Resort, a rather upscale hotel located on the edge of Sichon beach.
The coffee was rather expensive, but at least worth it in terms of flavor, and the setting, right on the beach, was very pleasant. Even though Sichon isn't internationally renowned, it has its fans, and the clientele was a mix of Thai and foreigners.
Once we'd absorbed our caffeine fix, we could calmly set off for the rest of the day. From the resort, the shortest route would have been to continue along Sichon beach before crossing the canal at the next bridge.
But instead, I wanted to retrace our steps slightly to stop at the seaside we had glimpsed just before arriving at Issara.
There are spaces under the trees where you can park freely near a small beach marked "Hin Ngam Beach," with a view of the cape. But don't expect to swim here: it's mostly rocky and not sandy.
Sichon: first stops around Khao Plai Dam
We then headed towards the scenic road, first passing along Thung Sai Beach, a rather wild beach that stretches for more than 4 km.
It turns out that we had already been there a few years earlier, because on its northern part there are some resorts as well as cafes and restaurants, including the HuuLaa Beachclub Sichon , where we had enjoyed relaxing one afternoon.
A first point of view… without much preparation
At the end of Thung Sai beach, the road begins to wind between the side of the small mountain of Khao Phlai Dam and the sea, marking the beginning of this famous tourist route that I had come to discover.
Literally right after the second turn, I made my first stop, having previously spotted the Khao Plai Dam Welcome View Point on Google Maps.
For me, “viewpoints” always make me want to go and see 🤩 But what I hadn't anticipated, because I hadn't looked at a Street View, is that there would be virtually no development…
Fortunately, a flat, open area was located a few meters away, serving as an improvised parking lot…
A gap in the vegetation offered an unobstructed view of Thung Sai beach, which we had just walked along. From here, it appears completely untouched, and the surrounding nature dominates the landscape.
This is a good appetizer for this walk that we've barely begun.
A beautiful view of Phlai Dam Beach
Continuing on, we passed the first hotels that had sprung up in the area to take advantage of this beautiful sea view. Barely a kilometer further on, we arrived at a second viewpoint, marked Best view เขาพลายดำ Sichon Nakhon Si Thammarat Thailand.
This time, a parking lot clearly invites you to stop, and the view overlooks a beach with two names: Ao Thong Yang, but also Phlai Dam Beach. While vegetation again dominates the surroundings, it's not deserted, as you can see about ten vacationers and their children enjoying the pleasures of the seaside.
A quick stop at Ao Thong Yang beach
After spotting it from the viewpoint, I decided to make a quick stop at the beach, which, although named Phlai Dam after the small chain of hills, also takes its name from its bay: Ao Thong Yang.
Upon arriving in the area, I found a spot rather haphazardly a stone's throw from the seafront, not planning to stay long. I found myself next to a few shops and restaurants lining the beach.
But from what I saw, it was mostly developments carried out by the local authorities, this time dependent on the district of Khanom since we had just passed the sign, thus leaving the territory of Sichon.
Shelters with tables and chairs are available nearby for those who want to picnic without setting up directly on the sand. There's a real local, family atmosphere, which makes you want to linger a little longer. But we didn't have time to dawdle, so we quickly hit the road again after taking the obligatory photos.
Khanom: coastal viewpoints
As I mentioned in the previous paragraph, we are now on the section of road belonging to the Khanom district. Its main beach, Khanom Beach, attracts a clientele who appreciate calm, without being isolated, thanks in particular to its relative proximity to the Donsak pier, the main access point to the islands of the Gulf of Thailand, Ko Samui in particular.
The main viewpoint
Simply marked Sichon-Khanom Road Viewpoint on Google Maps, it is the main stopping point, located roughly halfway along the overall route of this scenic road.
After a few curves along a clearly visible sea, we came across a parking lot with, this time, the typical features of a viewpoint: a souvenir photo/postcard style frame, but also two raised shelters allowing observation of the steep coast in the shade.
A pedestal topped with an elephant statue completes the decor of this rest area, which attracts all passing visitors. It was also the busiest spot on this road, including a group of Malaysian bikers, many of whom travel to this southern part of Thailand in large numbers on their vehicles.
And where there are tourists, there are vendors. In this case, just a few locals selling not drinks or snacks as one might expect, but rather lottery tickets!
While the view of this mountainous coastline isn't bad, it's not where you'll find the most beautiful view of the day, in my opinion. I noticed a man at the foot of the rocks who seemed to be fishing peacefully, in an unlikely spot that I still wonder how he managed to get there.
From this parking lot, located on a bend, you can see a fork marked by a sign and a metal dolphin.
It turns out that the area is to be included in a national park currently being established but not yet officially recognized, as it must first be published in the Royal Gazette: the Hat Khanom – Mu Koh Thale Tai National Park . This fork in the road leads to an area developed with hillside bungalows, which will be managed by the park authority.
Unobstructed view of Ao Tong Yee
After about ten minutes there, we got back on the road… for only 300 meters. Indeed, just a little further on was another viewpoint, this time isolated by the roadside. Surprisingly, there wasn't a proper parking lot here… Well, there was, but I didn't know it at the time: besides the one 300 meters back, where we'd come from, there was another one 250 meters further on.
Upon spotting the viewpoint, I had to hug the roadside as closely as possible to avoid obstructing traffic. It's a real shame this spot isn't better developed, as it offers one of the most beautiful views of the day, with its stunning vista of Ao Tong Yee – the very one featured in the article's lead photo.
The spot for photographing the winding road
This is actually the genesis of this article, since the photos I saw circulating on social media about this road came precisely from this spot.
Its distinctive feature is its appearance as a tarred serpent undulating on the hill, all bordered by coconut trees and, in our case, embellished by the flowering of shrubs with yellow flowers.
Even though the location was marked on Google Maps, we knew we were in the right place anyway, seeing several vehicles stopped and people present on each side.
Some are taking advantage of this popularity by offering their services as photographers, something quite common in Thailand despite the photo capabilities of today's smartphones. And indeed, one of them was busy with a couple posing in front of this famously photogenic spot.
The session lasted a while while we waited, with another couple having arrived before us. It ended with the guy's car, looking very proud, parked crookedly across almost the entire left lane, him posing in front of the hood with the road winding behind him. It was such an improbable scene that I regret not having taken a picture…
The next couple took their own photos, then a few that I offered to take so they would both be in the frame. They would return the favor when it was finally our turn to go through this very local little souvenir photo ritual.
Fortunately, traffic remained very light that day, and the layout of the area made it easy to see vehicles coming and to move aside if necessary.
Another impromptu stop a little further on
As we resumed our journey, I no longer had any real plans from that point on, except to go all the way to the end before returning calmly to Nakhon Si Thammarat.
But finally, a little over a kilometer further on, we came across cars parked on the side of the road again, with a few people clearly taking photos. Naturally, curiosity and the urge to copy others prompted me to stop once more…
We then spotted the couple we had photographed earlier. The view was somewhat similar, but the road was straighter, making it less interesting overall. This stop was therefore clearly unnecessary. We were now near a row of hotels and restaurants, as we were reaching the end of the scenic route, next to Nai Phlao Beach , which borders Khanom Beach to the south.
Naern Thae Wada Viewpoint, the end point of the walk
Taking advantage of this impromptu stop, I quickly looked at what to do in the area to complete this day, finding another viewpoint, indicated under the name of Naern Thae Wada Viewpoint , conveniently located above Nai Phlao Beach.
A small road, indicated by a sign, leads easily from the main road. An empty parking lot awaited us at the top. We noticed a whole host of facilities, including a metal suspension bridge, under which we had just passed.
I quickly realized, upon seeing a counter with a woman, that there was an entrance fee. But the price turned out to be only 30 baht per person, so I paid without hesitation. The land is private, so I wasn't bothered by the request for a contribution, given the investment in the construction, which remains, all things considered, of fairly modest quality.
We start with the main platform, which has a privileged view over all of Khanom, with karst rock formations visible in the distance in this northern part of the province of Nakhon Si Thammarat.
Overall, the facilities are kitschy and cheap, but the view is definitely worth the 30 baht. The site could use a little sprucing up, with a more modern and better-located cafe (there is one, but it's not on the side with the view and was closed when we visited), because it has real potential.
After taking a series of photos from the platform, we crossed a bridge that led us to the back of the site, which overlooks Nai Phlao. We did, however, pass a couple of foreign tourists, proof that I wasn't the only one enjoying the view this place offered.
We then retraced our steps towards the parking lot, but while Jitima thought we were leaving again, I stepped onto another raised platform, just above the arrival counter. I fully intended to visit the entire site and cross the blue bridge we had passed under upon arrival.
The elevated walkway is lined with bamboo; no doubt it's a popular selfie spot when it's crowded. The blue bridge then leads to a small area set up for camping, with toilets and bungalows, but they don't seem to have been used for a while. I suspect that COVID may have dampened ambitions and disrupted the momentum in this regard.
From this space, there is a view of a superb mass of yellow flowers, while on the way back to the parking lot to conclude this day of sightseeing, one can see a section of the same Khao Phlai Dam mountain range, which dominates the surroundings and serves as a backdrop to this local viewpoint.
Things to keep in mind before taking this trip between Sichon and Khanom
- The journey is clearly easier with a vehicle. A car or scooter is recommended, as the stops are far apart and the viewpoints are not served by public transport. To rent a vehicle and drive in Thailand, I suggest you... read my dedicated article.
- This is not an “unmissable” excursion. The main appeal lies in the road itself, its views, and a few well-chosen rest stops. It has its own charm and allows you to spend a lovely, relaxing day, a welcome change from lazy days on the beach.
- If you want to add a more cultural touch6 km from the main road leading to Sichon from Nakhon Si Thammarat, you will find a temple that attracts many worshippers: the Wat Chedi (Ai Khai), if you like places animated by strong devotion.
- Allow at least a few hours To enjoy the main stops without rushing, and even more so if you add cafes, beaches or other breaks. In our case, we left Nakhon Si Thammarat around 11am, had lunch around noon, and left the last viewpoint around 17pm.
- Some spots are poorly equipped or not equipped at all., so it's best to be cautious when parking and driving, especially if the road is busier than when we passed through.
- The route is perfect for a leisurely day out. from Nakhon Si Thammarat, Sichon or Khanom, depending on your starting point.
- If you plan to explore the sector in more depthStaying overnight in Sichon or Khanom can make sense rather than making the round trip in one day.
To book accommodation in Khanom and the surrounding area, you can use the map below:
