Si Thep Historical Park: the ancient Dvaravati city listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site
Away from the main circuits, the Si Thep Historical Park remains a confidential visit. Registered in 2023 at Unesco World Heritage, the site is starting to gain visibility in Thailand and could attract more visitors in the coming years.
On site, you'll mostly encounter Thai families, and the atmosphere exudes authenticity. Its location, between the north and northeast of the country, probably explains why it still escapes the classic itineraries of foreign travelers, who generally remain on a central-north axis.
What makes Si Thep unique is its history, with a dual heritage. The city was first a important center Dvaravati (6th-9th century), before passing under Khmer influence (11th-13th century). It is therefore a site older than the Ayutthaya and Sukhothai Historical ParksBut unlike Ayutthaya, which is now partially embedded within the city, the ruins of Si Thep are explored in a more open and peaceful setting.
In short, Si Thep is a bit like a still-confidential “mini-Sukhothaï”, with the added bonus of the Dvaravati imprint that cannot be found elsewhere.
Location of Si Thep Historical Park in Phetchabun Province.
A short history of Si Thep
The first traces of human presence in If Thep date back to 1500–2500 BCE. As a city, Si Thep began to develop in the 4th–5th centuries, with a significant expansion between 6th and 8th centuries, during the rise of the Dvaravati kingdomIt occupied an important position on the trade routes linking the Chao Phraya Valley to the northeastern highlands. Inscriptions found on stones also confirm contacts with India, evidence of unprecedented trade relations at the time.
The small town was first influenced by theHinduism, before switching to the Buddhism from the 8th century. Until the 10th century, Si Thep prospered, developing irrigation systems and even becoming an important political center, a mandalaThere are typical remains of this culture, such as large laterite monuments and the bases of circular stupas.
What is a “mandala”?
The term mandala here refers to a political model typical of ancient Southeast Asia. It is not a centralized state, but a system of kingdoms organized into circles of influence, where each city depended more or less on a regional center (here Si Thep), without fixed borders as we understand them today.
From XNUMXth century, the city came under the influence of the Khmer of Angkor. It is from this period that the prangs in brick and sandstone still visible in the park, alongside the older Dvaravati-inspired structures. This layering of heritage makes Si Thep unique.
The city gradually declined from the XNUMXth century, until it was abandoned. The site then sank into oblivion, covered by vegetation.
It was necessary to wait until the end of the Nineteenth century for Si Thep to be rediscovered by explorers and scholars. Archaeological excavations were carried out in the early 20th century, before the site was classified historic park in 1984, then registered in the UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2023.
What to see in Si Thep Historical Park?
The ancient fortified city, whose boundary by moats can be seen very well from the sky, is composed of two very distinct groups. The smaller one forms a circle, called Muang NaiThis is where the main part of the visit is concentrated, with the three main structures and around forty remains scattered over approximately 2 km².
Historic park map.
The extension towards the east marks the Khmer influence in Si Thep: we moved from a circular plan to a more rectangular whole (even if the angles are rounded). This area, called Muang Nok (literally "outer city"), covers approximately 2,5 km². There is an old reservoir and around fifty listed remains, but it is not open to visitors and is still partly used as agricultural land.
The historic park also includes two other structures located outside these walls, including the impressive Khao Khlang Nok, listed since the 60s but left as it was for a long time, covered by earth like a simple hill before its excavation in 2008.
Inside the fortified city
The main entrance to the historical park is located to the north. From the parking lot, you can buy your entrance ticket (100 ฿) and, if you wish, add 10 ฿ for the tram service that drops you off at the heart of the site.
The tram is widely used by default, but to my knowledge, not mandatory: there are simply no bikes to rent, so the alternative remains walking. Nothing insurmountable since the main ruins are only a little over 500 m from the parking lot.
The tram drops you off near the Prang Song Phi Nong, where there is also the waiting area for the return, toilets and a small cafe.
Prang Song Phi Nong
Recognizable by its two twin towers, hence its name (in Thai, phi and nong mean the elder and the younger respectively), this typically Khmer temple dates from the 12th century and recalls the influence of Angkor.
It is classically oriented from east to west. At the front, a long causeway lined with laterite blocks leads to a cross-shaped terrace near the prang. It was once lined with naga-shaped balustrades, which is why this type of arrangement is called a "naga bridge." In Khmer symbolism, this device represents the link between heaven and earth.
Overview of Prang Song Phi Nong.
The base of the main tower is made of laterite. The rest of the structure, which rises about 7 m, as well as the smaller twin tower, are built of bricks. This second tower is actually a reconstruction, carried out by the Thai Department of Fine Arts, including a decorative lintel replaced above the door: the only one found complete.
The elements discovered around the sanctuary indicate an original Hindu use, and more precisely a cult to Shiva: a lingam, yoni and a representation of his mount, the bull Nandin.
Did you know?
Le lingam is the phallic symbol of Shiva, representing the masculine creative principle. It rests on the yoni, traditionally represented as a square basin with a spout, which embodies the feminine principle. Together, they symbolize the union of the masculine and feminine, the source of all creation in Hinduism.
Prang Si Thep
Behind the Prang Song Phi Nong is another prang - the name given to Khmer towers (a bit like the ancestor of Thai chedis) - slightly more imposing at 12 m high. Its structure remains close to that of its neighbor: a laterite base topped by a brick body, preceded by a long causeway.
The difference lies in the remains of two sacred libraries that once stood on either side of the prang, as well as a fairly deep reservoir located on the right side of the tower. The whole complex dates from the same period, between the 11th and 12th centuries, and is thought to have been the subject of renovations that remained unfinished shortly before the city was abandoned.
Khao Khlang Nai
Here we move on to an older monument, dating from the Dvaravati period. These are the remains of an imposing laterite structure, rectangular in shape, measuring approximately 25 m by 44 m, with a staircase on the east side leading to the upper part, which has now disappeared. Its appearance strongly recalls that of another Mon stupa visible at the archaeological site of Khu Bua, in Ratchaburi (west of Bangkok, more than 300 km from Si Thep).
Its current height is 12 m, but it could have originally been much higher. Archaeologists believe it could have been a stupa, possibly rounded like Sri Lankan stupas, given that Khao Khlang Nai was a Buddhist sanctuary.
The monument is particularly notable for its laterite base, once decorated with stucco. A row of floral motifs can still be seen, topped by a gallery of figures in the position of "Atlantes" - figures symbolically serving as architectural support and protectors.
Among them, we recognize some animals (lion, buffalo, elephant), but most represent small, stocky figures with large earrings. They are interpreted as desire, the "bearing dwarves" from Shiva's entourage in Hinduism.
Although the building dates back to the founding of Si Thep, around the 6th century, its decorations are stylistically dated to the 9th century. Around the monument, traces of an ancient surrounding wall can still be seen, as well as chedis, viharns and other buildings linked to the ceremonies and life of the sanctuary.
In front of the eastern entrance, you can see a stone wheel (Dharmachakra or "Wheel of Dharma"), a Buddhist symbol still used, notably on the flags present in all the temples of Thailand.
Wheel of Dharma in front of the Khao Khlan Nai.
The name Khao Khlang Nai comes from the villagers: khao ("hill") evokes the appearance of the ruin before its excavation, which formed a mound of earth; khlang means "treasure" or "depository", suggesting that the place was used to store goods; finally nai ("interior"), as opposed to nok ("exterior"), distinguishes it from Khao Khlang Nok located outside the walls of the ancient city.
Outside the city
No need to go far to complete the visit to Si Thep: the following two sites are located less than 2 km north of Muang Nai.
Prang Ruesi
A small ruined Khmer Shaivite sanctuary, Prang Ruesi is believed to date from the 11th–12th century, contemporaneous with Prang Si Thep. Its particularity is that it is located within the grounds of a still active forest temple, the Wat Pa Sa KaeoThe latter is said to have housed a highly respected monk in the region, hence the alternative name of Prang Luang Pho Chaw given by the villagers.
Built outside the ancient city, the sanctuary is also sometimes referred to as Prang Nok ("outer prang"). A sign on site specifies that it actually consisted of two small, separate temples (prasat, a generic term for Khmer sanctuaries), each surrounded by its own wall.
The configuration remains classic: laterite bases and brick towers. The prang still standing, although inclined, culminates at around 10 m. Its neighbor, measuring 4 x 4 m, only preserves the base, symbolically surmounted by a door and a modern lintel.
Prang Ruesi is located in the northeast corner of Wat Pa Sa Kaeo, whose forested enclosure stretches over 700 m long. If you are going there on your own, be aware that traffic in the temple follows a mandatory direction: the roads are narrow, so it is best to respect this route because the vegetation along these passages prevents any maneuvering.
Khao Khlang Nok
Located in the small village of Ban Sa Prue, less than 1,5 km from Muang Nai, Khao Khlang Nok is considered the largest known Dvaravati-style stupa in Thailand. Its immense laterite base, measuring 64 x 64 m and 20 m high in its current state, gives the whole structure the appearance of a small hill.
The monument symbolizes Mount Meru — the center of the universe in Buddhist cosmology — and, dated 8th–9th century, it bears witness to the prosperity of ancient Si Thep and more broadly of the Môn-Dvaravati kingdom.
Overview of the great stupa.
Aerial view displayed on an explanatory panel, this better reflects its massive appearance.
Any stucco decorations that once adorned this building have disappeared, leaving today a raw, almost bare appearance. Despite this, the monument's gigantic size is impressive and forms a unique Dvaravati vestige of its kind in Thailand.
The visit itself is limited, as one can only walk around its base. One can admire the massive staircases placed at the four cardinal points, once covered by a roof, which led to a bell-shaped chedi. Traces also indicate the presence of a cloister surrounding the latter.
In front of each staircase are small annexed chedis. It's crazy to think that the road, now diverted, once passed at the foot of this "hill", and although we suspected the presence of a temple, it was only really cleared and restored very recently, adding a major asset to the historical park of Si Thep.
To give you an idea of what such a building would have looked like in its heyday, a small corner of the site is decorated with information on the walls explaining the stupa's decorative elements. And for greater clarity, everything is complemented by a model.
Other remains
In addition to the numerous traces of small sanctuaries within the Muang Nai enclosure, and to a lesser extent within that of Muang Nok, there are also inscriptions and remains of structures scattered throughout the wider archaeological area.
In Muang Nok, an ancient reservoir called Sa Kwan is still visible, while a smaller basin, Sa Kaeo, is located 600 m further north, just outside the old city.
Two other remains are listed under the names of Khao Khlang Na (เขาคลังหน้า) and Khao Khlang Sa Kaeo (เขาคลังสระแก้ว). The first is located near a village 7 km south of Si Thep and today looks like a small hill covered with trees, sanctified by orange ribbons.
As for the second, it is difficult to say more: its exact location and characteristics are not documented, apart from its name.
Finally, 20 km west of the main area, stands the hill of Khao ThammaratIt houses a cave decorated with stone sculptures of bodhisattvas—figures of compassion in Mahāyāna Buddhism—as well as other Buddha statues typical of the Dvaravati style. Some of the pieces found here are now on display at the National Museum of Bangkok.
View of Khao Thammarat.
Religious context in Si Thep
During the Dvaravati period (6th–9th century), Si Thep was mainly influenced by Buddhism Mahāyāna, recognizable among other things by the circular stupas, the Indian influences and the presence of Dharmachakra (wheels of Dharma).
Under Khmer influence (11th–12th century), Shaivite Hinduism became established: lingams, yonis and sanctuaries dedicated to Shiva bear witness to this period.
Only later did Buddhism Theravada, centered on the original teachings of the Buddha and a more refined symbolism, became dominant in the region — a tradition still practiced in Thailand today.
Practical information for the visit
Location: Si Thep Historical Park is located in the province of Phetchabun (Si Thep district).
Schedule & recommended duration: Open daily from 08:00 a.m. to 16:30 p.m. Even if you take your time, allow no more than 45 minutes for the main area (Muang Nai). Taking into account travel between the various outdoor sites (excluding Khao Thammarat), it should not take more than 2 hours to explore the entire site.
Admission price : 100 ฿ for foreigners, 20 ฿ for Thais. Internal tram service available for an additional 10 ฿.
How to get there :
- From Bangkok: Allow approximately 4 to 5 hours by car (route 1 to Saraburi, then route 21 and finally 2219 or 2244 for the last kilometers).
Buses also depart from Mo Chit terminal to Phetchabun / Si Thep. They usually stop at Ban Klang (บ้านกลาง, Si Thep district), from where it remains about 9 km to the park — to be covered in samlor (local motorcycle taxis).
Another option is to go through an agency in Bangkok: Thailand Journeys offers a two-day tour combining Ayutthaya, Lopburi and Si Thep. - From Phetchabun: possibility to take a bus towards Bangkok and get off at Ban Klang, or find a local taxi / rental car.
- From Lopburi: It is actually the closest major town to Si Thep (about 1.5 hours by car, compared to almost 2 hours from Phetchabun). You can also reach Si Thep from there by bus or taxi.
Practical advice :
- There are no bikes for rent on site; the tour is done on foot, and everything is condensed anyway. The internal tram can help you reach the heart of the site.
- There is a small cafe and restrooms near Prang Song Phi Nong, but there are no restaurants on site (there will be a few snacks at the parking lot otherwise).
- Avoid midday hours to explore outdoor areas, especially during warmer weather.
Where to sleep nearby?
Si Thep Historical Park is located in the middle of nowhere, at least outside of the main tourist routes. Note that if you want to stay "close by," there are immediate accommodation options, but this isn't necessarily ideal for enjoying the region, even with a vehicle.
The visit, however, fits very well into a road trip between Lopburi et PhetchabunDepending on your direction of visit, each of these cities can therefore serve as a stopping point.
- Lopburi: The easiest solution if you are coming from Bangkok, or if you want to continue with other historical visits (Khmer temples and Lopburi Old Town). There is a decent selection of guesthouses and simple hotels.
- Phetchabun: convenient if you continue north (via Phitsanulok) or the northeast (in Isan, via Loei or Khon Kaen), with more mid-range hotels and a few resorts.
In summary, unless you want an “off the beaten track” experience in a village homestay near the park, it is better to plan ahead If Thep as a step as part of a larger itinerary — rather than a destination to spend the night solely for the site seeing.
Other visits around Si Thep
In a fairly close radius, we find a local curiosity, not far from Khao Thammarat already mentioned: theAncient sea of Phu Nam Yot (ท้องทะเลดึกดำบรรพ์ภูน้ำหยด). This is a site where you can observe fossilized corals, remnants of a time when the entire region was under the sea millions of years ago. Unfortunately, the place is very little developed.
In the same spirit but more impressively, there is Phu Khao Hin Pakarang, also called Coral Mountain. It is an ancient ocean floor transformed into karst peaks, similar to those seen in coastal regions. like Krabi.
Further north, Phetchabun province is entirely mountainous. It is home to several national parks, including the Nam Nao National Park and especially the Thung Salaeng Luang National Park, probably the more interesting of the two.
View from Thung Salaeng Luang National Park, the day I attempted to visit (weather too bad, I had to cut it short...)
The region is also known for Phu Thap Book, a mountain covered with cabbage and vegetable plantations, has become a popular holiday destination for Thais. People come here to enjoy the fresh air in winter and admire the famous "sea of clouds". Not far away is the spectacular Wat Phra That Pha Sorn Kaew, recognizable by its immense five-headed Buddha and its grandiose panorama of the surrounding mountains.
View of Phu Thap Boek.
The Buddhas of Wat Phra That Pha Sorn Kaew.
Finally, if you are arriving from Lopburi, make a stop at the waterfalls of Namtok Wang Kan Lueang : a pretty undergrowth where Thais come to cool off and laze by the water.
The falls are in the same spirit as those of Kanchanaburi : terraced limestone waterfalls with turquoise pools, all surrounded by trees with tangled roots - a simple and relaxing nature spot. Unfortunately, as is often the case in Thailand, this place is not free for foreigners (100 baht per person).
To complete, I only found out about it afterward, but there is another section less than a kilometer further, marked by " Wangkanluang Arboretum", which you can reach by crossing the temple located between the two falls. There is also a campsite at this location.
My opinion on Si Thep
Si Thep Historical Park lacks the fame of Ayutthaya or Sukhothai, nor the majesty of great Khmer sites like Phanom Rung or Phimai. Yet its appeal lies precisely in its hybrid and unique character: a place where Dvaravati remains and Khmer influences intersect, rare testimonies from several eras.
Add to this a rural and natural environment, and you have a visit that stands out for its difference. More than a destination in itself, Si Thep fits perfectly into an itinerary between Lopburi and Phetchabun, offering a stopover that is both cultural and exotic.
Explore other historical sites in Thailand
Si Thep is not alone: Thailand is full of remarkable archaeological sites, ranging from ancient Thai kingdoms to Khmer heritage. Here's an overview of the most important.
Historic parks listed by UNESCO
Ayutthaya
Ancient capital of Siam.
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Cradle of the first Thai kingdom.
And Satchanalai
Strategic outpost 1 hour from Sukhothai, also listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Kamphaeng Phet
Ancient fortified city, defensive role of the Sukhothai kingdom.
Other archaeological sites
Chiang Saen
Cradle of Lanna, ancient city with ruined ramparts and temples.
Wiang Kum Kam Free MpXNUMX Download
Former capital before Chiang Mai.
Lopburi
Ancient Khmer city then secondary capital in the 17th century, today famous for its monkeys.
Great Khmer sanctuaries
