Located about three hours' drive from Chiang Mai, Pai has become one of the most popular stops in northern Thailand. The town itself remains modest in size, but its surroundings boast temples, hot springs, waterfalls, rice paddies, and some beautiful mountain viewpoints.
Often presented as a more "authentic" alternative to Chiang Mai, Pai also carries a somewhat manufactured image of a bohemian retreat. This is precisely what I wanted to confront with reality. I only spent one full day and two nights there during the Mae Hong Son loop: it's not much, but enough to explore several sites around the town and get a first impression of what explains its popularity.
Pai: a stopover towards Mae Hong Son
I'd been hearing about it for a few years, but I wasn't in a hurry to go because I knew the town was already popular. I figured it wasn't going to get much more disfigured in the medium term, say three to five years. Basically, the damage was done, in my mind.
I had also never had the motivation to specifically make the round trip from Chiang Mai, since it still requires three hours of driving and no less than 762 turns.
On the other hand, Pai fits perfectly into the Mae Hong Son loop. This route passes through the town before continuing, in my case, towards Mae Lana, Mae Hong Son, Mae Chaem and Doi Inthanon National Park , then heading back up towards Chiang Mai.
The opportunity finally arose, unfortunately not at the best time for the scenery, as it was the middle of March… The country was also still in the process of reopening after Covid, which explains the sometimes very calm atmosphere mentioned later. But at least I was able to discover Pai and form my own opinion.
What to do and see in Pai?
Below, I've listed what I actually had time to see, in the order I spent each day. With one full day and two nights, it's fair to say I only skimmed the surface. To give you a more comprehensive overview, I've also included a few additional spots in case you're planning to spend more time there.
Cafes with a view around Pai
I started my sightseeing even before arriving in Pai, somewhat by chance actually. The hotel (see below) being on the other side of the river, this meant I was taking a detour from the main road, along the mountain.
It was late afternoon and we could see the sunset directly to the left. Initially, I hadn't planned to stop, but being a bit of a compulsive photographer, I thought it would be a shame to miss the "show".
I had just spotted what looked like a restaurant or café with a view that seemed perfectly suited for this sunset moment. Without hesitation, I turned around and parked in the lot, which was quite full of the numerous scooters of the tourists already there.
Getting out of the car, the strong smell of weed hits me, and I think to myself, "Welcome to Pai!" It immediately sets the mood...
In addition to the tables in the main building, there are several wooden or bamboo tables and chairs scattered across a leveled area below the café. The place has a good reputation for its great cocktails and the atmosphere is definitely chill. And the sunset was definitely lovely.
It was Two Huts Pai , 5 km south of Pai. The reason I haven't named it in the title, and even added an "s," is to emphasize that you'll find plenty of cafes and restaurants like it around Pai, all with the same goal: to offer a prime view. They're often popular in the evening for watching the sunset (depending, of course, on their orientation).
I can mention in no particular order the small restaurant simply spotted by "Sunset near the white buddha", Charming pai homemade, the Noodle Hill or one of the more well-known ones, indicated by Yun Lai Viewpoint.
Pai Walking Street: the night market
Since I arrived in the evening, I immersed myself in the atmosphere of Pai through the night market. Obviously, as the country was reopening, there were tourists, but ultimately very few compared to normal. As a result, it created a rather unique atmosphere.
You can tell it's usually very touristy, because, apart from the tourists, I hardly saw any locals walking around the market itself. However, there were times when the street was completely empty, which was strange.
In practical terms, the market stretches for 300 meters along Chai Songkhram Street, which runs along the river north of Pai. There are, of course, a few bars and restaurants along Walking Street itself, but the main activity is located on a perpendicular street, right next to the bamboo bridge.
After that, what you could call the town center is quite small: at most, a 500m x 500m square. If you wander around a bit, you'll have plenty of time to come across other establishments. In my case, partly out of laziness, but also due to a lack of options (many places were still closed at that time), I ended up at the Pai Siam Bar & Bistro. It was okay, but nothing special.
The temples in the center of Pai
Assuming this is your first time in Thailand and you haven't seen many temples yet, you can see two along Walking Street. I went there in the morning before starting my day's sightseeing, and it was peaceful.
The first is Wat Pa Kham , with a large building on stilts and wooden facades. Behind it, you'll see a collection of golden chedis. I didn't linger because I had to return to the hotel soon, and well, let's be honest, it wasn't my first temple either.
Just a little further on, you have Wat Klang , with a similar layout. I ventured a little longer into the latter, taking a stroll inside the hall, also on stilts and made entirely of wood.
I was discreetly witnessing an ordinary ceremony, as two women came to bring offerings for the monks, a classic scene in a temple, but appreciated on this peaceful morning.
These two temples, like many in this region, are in the Burmese architectural style, and more specifically Shan, the Shan being also called Tai Yai by the Thais.
It is a very distinctive style from what you might encounter in the more classic temples of the central regions, for example, due to the obvious geographical proximity with its neighbor Burma (or Myanmar officially).
It was also an opportunity to get a glimpse of Pai during the day (well, in the morning in this case), which is quite deserted, because at that early hour, either people have already gone exploring, or they're still asleep. But it's not unpleasant at all.
Wat Phra That Mae Yen and its large white Buddha
First stop, the large white Buddha, which is located on the hillside south of Pai within Wat Mae Yen. You shouldn't miss it as it can be seen from afar.
This is probably one of Pai's most famous spots. The statue stands proudly on its pedestal, offering a breathtaking view of the valley and the mountains opposite. If you haven't seen a large statue like this before, it will undoubtedly impress you. For me, it's just another statue, but you have to admit the view is pretty good.
350 steps await you to reach the platform where the statue is located. The first series gives the impression of a monumental site, guarded by two lions, with a rather imposing width of staircase compared to the modest size of the temple itself, which consists of a small viharn and an attached golden chedi.
The advantage of the site is that it's free. However, at this time of year, it's impossible to see the mountains opposite; it's too hazy.
Sai Ngam hot springs
The next visit wasn't ideally timed, as it would have made more sense to visit it at the beginning of the journey between Pai and Mae Lana, since it's located 17 km north of Pai. It's a hot spring, one of several found in the area. For example, there's another one to the south, near the canyon: Tha Pai Hot Spring.
But Sai Ngam's advantage lies in its series of natural pools, separated only by a row of stones. While the original spring reaches 80°C, hot enough to cook eggs, its intermediate pools have a temperature more conducive to a longer soak, like a naturally heated swimming pool… Above all, it's pure, crystal-clear mineral water.
While I'm not usually a fan of hot spring sites that are so heavily developed they just look like heated pools, here the natural aspect is lovely. However, the site is part of a protected natural area, so there's an entrance fee (which has doubled since my visit...).
Another reason I made this visit was its proximity to an ethnic village, located next to a river just 2 km from its source. Unfortunately, it wasn't a great experience… I don't know if it was because we were still in the midst of the COVID-19 pandemic, but we didn't exactly feel welcome…
Aside from any potential Covid-related fears, I was particularly bothered by a woman who asked me for money to take her picture. So I definitely didn't stay very long, but if you're curious, feel free to go; perhaps you'll be more welcoming there.
Pam Bok Waterfall
When I say my planning for that day wasn't ideal, it's especially true since the next stop was south of Pai, 24 km from Sai Ngam… Nevertheless, there are several waterfalls around the town: Mo Pang Waterfall, a small waterfall to the west, and Mae Yen Waterfall. The latter is more difficult to reach: it's over 12 km, or 4 to 6 hours round trip. You can read a detailed description of the hike here (in English).
As it was March, a time with little water, it was not a priority to see them, but if I had to choose one, I set my sights on Pam Bok, which has the advantage of being easy to access and, above all, close to another attraction, the bamboo bridge, which shows that my organization was not a complete failure.
Given the time of year, there was literally nobody there when I visited, and of course, the appeal was limited since there was no water… The only surprise was spotting some kind of chameleon, pretending not to see me, perched against a rock. Normally, it's a fairly popular waterfall for cooling off.
Pam Bok has recently become less popular, having suffered some of Thailand's "bad habits"... For a long time, the waterfall, located at the end of a pretty little canyon, was free to access. Initially, it was introduced with a 40 baht entrance fee. So far, so good, if it helps keep the site clean.
When I visited, it was already part of the Lum Nam Pai Wildlife Sanctuary , where the entrance fee was 200 baht. So yes, it's well laid out with a paved path for easy access to the base of the waterfall, but since then, the price has doubled to 400 baht! It went from 0 to 400 baht between October 2019 and 2023. Just read the scathing reviews; it's not going down well…
Admittedly, this ticket grants access to all the other sites in this protected area, including another waterfall, Susa Waterfall (closer to Mae Hong Son), the Nam Bo Phi Cave (somewhat in the middle of nowhere), and the famous Lod Cave . However, the sites are quite far apart, and the ticket is only valid for one day!
I can understand that an entrance fee is used for the maintenance and protection of a natural site. However, the increase from free to 400 baht in just a few years seems frankly excessive, especially for such a modest waterfall.
This problem is further exacerbated by the price difference: entry costs 30 baht for a Thai visitor, compared to 400 baht for a foreigner—more than thirteen times the local price! Even taking into account differences in purchasing power, such a discrepancy seems simply outrageous to me. In short, this kind of practice continues to displease me…
The Bamboo Bridge (Kho Ku So Bamboo Bridge)
Just 2 km further on, we reached the entrance to the village of Ban Phaem Bok, where the bamboo bridge is located. Well, the main structure is made of bamboo, but to ensure its durability, the supporting posts are made of concrete. It's clearly not the only one of its kind, as in recent years, this type of bridge crossing rice paddies, often associated with cafes, has become commonplace.
Contrary to appearances, the primary goal was not to attract tourists. Although it is recent, the bridge was built by the locals to connect the temple located on the other side on the mountainside, Wat Pa Huai Khai Khiri, so that the monks could reach the village more quickly in the morning.
The idea is that, even though there is a road, the journey down to the village is a bit longer. Furthermore, this road can sometimes be flooded by the river during the rainy season.
The other reason given is that this shortcut allows the inhabitants to offer alms to the monks, then go directly to the fields, rather than waiting for them to come to the village in front of their homes.
Part of me can't help but think that this whole thing is a kind of "pretext" to add a cultural dimension to the place, even though the shortcut only removes about 300 meters of travel and everything is clearly set up for tourists to take their little photos. Then again, the two aren't mutually exclusive.
No doubt that in the summer, the setting is lovely, surrounded by mountains and with lush green rice paddies that always produce a wow factor. But during the dry season, that effect was completely lost, much like the lack of rain itself.
Expect to pay around 30 baht by dropping a small bill into the box provided at the entrance. On the plus side, the nearby village is much more welcoming than the one near the hot spring we visited earlier.
While taking a short stroll, I came across a little old lady sorting vegetables, and then, on my way back to the car, a group of women busy sorting red beans. In both cases, I was greeted with smiles.
Pai Canyon
I then wanted to find a nearby cafe with a view just to try one. I went to the Baandoi cafe and eatery, which has good reviews and indeed a beautiful view of the mountains. Unfortunately, with this covid period, no cook present so it was not possible to eat... So we went back to town to find something before going to the last stop of the day, because we were already approaching the end of the afternoon.
And THE thing at the end of the day in Pai is to go to the canyon to watch the sunset. We were actually a bit too early since it wasn't even 17 p.m. The advantage was that we were able to enjoy the site at first with almost no one around. Located 8 km south of the city, the canyon is a geological curiosity.
It's not a canyon in the strictest sense, but rather an area where erosion has sculpted the land into ravines that can be explored, somewhat at our own risk, as there are no marked trails. Some sections are quite narrow and steep, so not really recommended for young children, unless you're content with just staying on the upper plateau to watch the sun set in the distance.
I really enjoyed this place, even though it was dry and marked by the characteristic burns of this season. It was photogenic and the setting added a beautiful atmosphere to the sunset. Around 18pm, more and more people arrived to watch the show and find a good spot to see the last rays of sun disappear behind the horizon.
Other sites around Pai
To complete the picture, here are a few other possible visits in the vicinity of Pai that I was unable to make.
- As for hot springs, 20 km southwest of Pai, you have the Mueang Rae Pai Geyser Hot Springs, a spot right by the roadside.
- To combine waterfall and hiking, you have to the east Mae Yen Waterfall.
- Isolated to the north, you have a small ruin in the middle of the rice paddies, the Phrathat Mueang Noi.
- Close Yun Lai Viewpoint mentioned above, there is a small waterfall with a swimming pool, Mo Pang Waterfall.
- The "Chinese" village Santichon VillageI didn't visit it, as it's clearly more of an attraction for Thais and Instagram enthusiasts.
- Finally, to the south, near the canyon and hot springs of Tha Pai, the Tha Pai Memorial Bridge recalls the passage of the Japanese army through the region during World War II.
There is, of course, the simple option of wandering through the countryside. After all, outside of Pai itself, it remains essentially villages whose main activity revolves around agriculture, even if, here and there, you can also find tourist activities such as elephant camps (not recommended here, however) or tubing.
Practical tips for Pai
Getting to Pai
One of the main transport providers in the region is Prem Pracha, which offers minibus services between Chiang Mai, Pai, Mae Hong Son, and Mae Sariang. The Chiang Mai to Pai route costs 250 baht and takes around 4 hours (depending on the service and traffic, usually with stops because the winding roads are tiring).
- You can book on 12GB If you want support the blog by clicking here: Minibus Prem Pracha
You can also check the official Prem Pracha website directly , as schedules and prices may change.
Getting around Pai
The center of Pai is easily explored on foot, but most of the sites presented in this article are scattered within a radius of about twenty kilometers.
The car is very suitable if you are travelling in a group or if Pai is a stop on the Mae Hong Son loop.
The scooter remains the most popular means of transport, but I would like to remind you of the basic rules:
- Make sure you have a motorcycle license (A), an international driving permit and a valid insurance.
Whatever your means of transport, I invite you to read my article on driving in Thailand before hitting the road.
If you don't want to drive, several agencies in the city center offer day trips that include the main sites around Pai. It's also possible to book a private driver, a more flexible but naturally more expensive option.
Where to sleep in Pai
I was targeting the area just across the river at the end of Walking Street. The advantage is being close to the action, while still being far enough away to enjoy some peace and quiet.
And for that reason, I had chosen this guesthouse:
The small resort is barely 100 meters from the night market street thanks to the little bamboo bridge spanning the river. The rooms are spacious, though rather basic, and located in bungalows on stilts. We also had a balcony with a hammock, which I was able to enjoy for a while.
The manager is lovely and offers an excellent breakfast, which can be enjoyed on a terrace overlooking the river. There's also a café there, the 'Daddy Chill Cafe', where you can have a beer and take in the view. Overall, a fantastic impression of this little paradise surrounded by nature.
There were other guesthouses around ours, and if you prefer an option more in the center, you'll find what you're looking for here:
My impressions of Pai: authentic charm?
I wanted to conclude this article with a brief reflection and try to answer this question: why does Pai attract so many visitors?
The term "authentic" often comes up when discussing Pai. Yet it's a rather catch-all word and somewhat paradoxical for a destination that has become one of the most popular tourist destinations in northern Thailand.
The center of Pai is home to guesthouses, restaurants offering international cuisine, bars, and souvenir shops, demonstrating how tourism has reshaped the town. Even during my visit, when visitor numbers hadn't yet returned to their usual levels, the influence was evident around Walking Street, the canyon, and the cafes bustling at sunset.
The nightlife also seems very vibrant for a city of this size. Between the bars and the almost deserted streets in the early morning, Pai sometimes feels like a mini Khao San Road the morning after a party. This isn't necessarily a bad thing, but it doesn't quite fit with the image of a place still relatively untouched by tourism.
I can also add the appearance of typically tourist activities like "tubing", where you drift along the water on a tube, often with a bucket of alcohol or a beer in hand... It is a practice originally popularized in Vang Vieng in Laos , which has become a trend in several destinations claiming to have the "slow life" vibe.
However, not everything here is artificial. The Shan-style temples, the surrounding villages, and the valley landscapes are all integral to the local identity. As soon as you leave the center, you find yourself in a countryside primarily focused on agriculture, where genuine encounters are still possible, even though cafes with views and other tourist-oriented establishments have proliferated around Pai.
In the end, I completely understand what attracts people to Pai. The town remains easy to get around, lively enough, and surrounded by beautiful landscapes that can be freely explored.
But to present it as the quintessence of "authentic" Thailand seems exaggerated to me. I see it more as a kind of Ko Phangan of the North: a tourist destination with a relaxed atmosphere, already deeply influenced by its visitors, but without being completely spoiled.
