Thailand Visit Pai: a bohemian stop on the Mae Hong Son loop Mae Hong Son, Father, Northern Provinces, Travel to Thailand 4.7 (12)Pai is located 150 km northwest of Chiang Mai, it has become the trendy destination in the North of Thailand. It aims to be the laid-back alternative to Chiang Mai, which remains a convenient base, but a big city, so some will feel that it lacks nature and is not "authentic" enough and that's where Pai comes in. On paper, Pai is a charming little town with a bohemian atmosphere. An oasis of nature, nestled in a valley surrounded by mountains, waterfalls and rice fields, which promotes the "slow life" and calls for disconnecting by appreciating the beautiful things that surround us. Summary hide Pai: a stopover towards Mae Hong Son What to do and see in Pai? Cafe(s) with a view Pai Walking Street: the night market The temples of Pai Big Buddha (Wat Mae Yen) Sai Ngam hot spring Pam Bok Waterfall The Bamboo Bridge (Kho Ku So Bamboo Bridge) Pai Canyon Other sites around Pai Practical tips for Pai Where to sleep in Pai Getting to Pai My impressions of Pai, the authentic charm? Pai: a stopover towards Mae Hong SonIt is necessary to put the context in which I was going to Pai. I had been hearing about it for a few years already, and until then I was rather content with the regions further north of Chiang Mai, which suited me very well, and I had never had the opportunity to go there. I was not in a hurry to go there either because I knew the town was already popular so I thought that it was not going to become much more disfigured in a medium-term time frame like 3-5 years, basically, the "damage was done" according to my reasoning.Also, while it is certainly quite close in kilometers to Chiang Mai, due to the curves (762 to be exact), it takes 3 hours to travel. I have never had the motivation to make the trip from Chiang Mai just to make a round trip to Pai only.On the road between Chiang Mai and Pai.For me, if I went to Pai, it would be in the specific context of doing the famous Mae Hong Son loop. A route that passes through Pai, goes into the mountains to the west, with generally a stop in Mae Lanna, Mae Hong Son and the return to complete the loop being done by Mae Chaem and Doi Inthanon before going back up to Chiang Mai.The opportunity arose when I had the opportunity to do this loop, unfortunately not at an optimal time in terms of landscapes since it was in the middle of March… In addition, we were still in the Covid period, not the most closed, but not yet completely open. But at least I was able to take a tour and see what it's like.What to do and see in Pai?What I list below is what I actually had time to see, in order and in the time allotted, namely that it was a full day and two nights, so it goes without saying that I pretty much skimmed over the place. To be a little more complete, I also indicate a few additional spots if you ever spend more time there.Cafe(s) with a viewI started the visits before even arriving in Pai, a bit by chance actually. The hotel (see below) being on the other side of the river, this made me pass away from the main road, along the mountain. It was the end of the day and we could see the setting sun directly on the left. At first, I had not planned to stop, but being a bit of a compulsive photographer, I told myself that it would be a shame to miss the "show".I had just seen what seemed to be a restaurant or café with a view that seemed perfectly adequate for this "sunset" moment. Without further ado, I turned around and parked in the parking lot, which was well occupied by the many scooters of the tourists already there. As I got out of the car, the smell of weed was very present, I said to myself "welcome to Pai!", that set the mood straight away.In addition to the tables in the main building, there are several wooden or bamboo tables and chairs spread out on a flattened area below the café. The place has a good reputation for its good cocktails and the atmosphere is definitely chill. And clearly, the sunset was cool.It was the Two Huts Pai, 5 km south of Pai but if in the title I do not name it and even add an (s), it is to emphasize the fact that you will find plenty of cafes or restaurants of this kind around Pai, with the same goal of enjoying a privileged view, and which are often popular in the evening to admire the sunset (it will obviously depend on their orientation). I can cite in bulk the small restaurant simply identified by "Sunset near the white buddha", Charming pai homemade, the Noodle Hill or one of the most famous, indicated by Yun Lai Viewpoint.Pai Walking Street: the night marketAs I arrived in the evening, it was through the night market that I immersed myself in the atmosphere of Pai. Obviously, as it was the pre-opening period of the country, there were tourists, but ultimately very few compared to normal times. As a result, it gave a somewhat special atmosphere.You can feel that it's usually very touristy, because in the market itself, apart from tourists, I didn't see any locals or very few, wandering around. On the other hand, there were times when the street was completely empty, it was weird.In concrete terms, the market stretches over 300 m along Chai Songkhram Street, which overlooks the river, north of Pai. There are of course a few bars and restaurants along Walking Street itself, but the main action is located on a perpendicular street, right next to the bamboo bridge.After what can be called the city center remains small, at most a square of 500 m by 500 m so by walking around a little, you will have plenty of time to come across other establishments. In my case, a little out of laziness, but also due to lack of choice (still many places closed at that time), it was at the Pai Siam Bar & Bistro that I landed. OK, but not great either.The temples of PaiIf this is your first time in Thailand and you haven't seen many temples yet, you can see two along Walking Street. I went there in the morning before starting the day's visits, it was quiet. The first is Wat Pa Kham, with a large building on stilts and wooden facades. Behind it you will see a group of golden chedis.Just a little further on, you have Wat Klang, with a similar layout. I ventured a little longer into the latter, going for a walk inside the hall, also on stilts and all in wood. I discreetly attended an ordinary ceremony, as two women came to bring offerings for the monks, a classic scene in a temple, but appreciable on this peaceful morning.These two temples, like many in this region, are of Burmese architectural style, and more precisely Shan, also called Tai Yai by the Thais. It is a very distinctive style of what you might come across in the more classic temples of the central regions for example, due to the obvious geographical proximity with its neighbor Burma (or Myanmar officially).It was also an opportunity to get a glimpse of Pai during the day (well, in the morning for that matter), which is quite deserted, because at this early hour, either people have already gone exploring, or they are still asleep. But it's not unpleasant then.Big Buddha (Wat Mae Yen)First stop, the big white Buddha, which is located on the hillside south of Pai in Wat Mae Yen. You shouldn't miss it because it can be seen from afar. It is probably one of the most famous spots in Pai. The statue sits proudly on its pedestal, with a breathtaking view of the valley and the mountains opposite. If you haven't seen a large statue of this kind, there is no doubt that it could impress you. For me, it remains a statue among others but I must admit that the view is not bad.350 steps await you to reach the platform where the statue is located. The first series gives an impression of a monumental site, guarded by two lions, with a fairly imposing staircase width compared to the modest size of the temple itself which is limited to a small viharn and adjoining golden chedi. The advantage of the site is that it is free. On the other hand, at this time of year it is impossible to see the mountains opposite, too foggy...Remember that this is a temple, so it is necessary to be dressed appropriately, no bare shoulders for ladies, no miniskirts, no shorts too short and tank tops for gentlemen.Sai Ngam hot springThe next visit was not optimal in terms of management, because as such, it would have been more logical to do it at the beginning of the journey between Pai and Mae Lanna, since it is 17 km north of Pai. It is a hot spring, like several in the area, for example there is another one to the south, near the canyon, Tha Pai Hot Spring.But the advantage of the latter is to have a series of natural pools, only delimited by a row of stones. If the original source reaches 80 °C, enough to cook eggs, its intermediate pools have a temperature more suitable for a prolonged bath, like a heated swimming pool but naturally… It is above all a mineral water, pure and clear.If I'm usually not a fan of sites with hot springs, which are so developed that they just look like heated pools, here the natural aspect is in place, it's pleasant. On the other hand, it is considered part of a national park so there is an entrance fee (which has doubled since my visit...).Another reason that led me to make this visit was the proximity to an ethnic village, next to a river only 2 km from the sources. Unfortunately, it wasn't a great plan... I don't know if it was because we were still in the "covid" period, but we didn't really feel welcome... Apart from a possible fear related to covid, I was particularly bothered by the situation where a lady asked me for money to take a picture of her. So I clearly didn't stay there very long, but if you're ever curious, feel free to take a look, maybe the welcome will be better there.Sai Ngam Hot Springs Entrance Fee: 400 baht per person (new price since February 2023)Parking fee: 20 Baht per vehicleOpening hours: Monday to Sunday 8:00 a.m. to 18:00 p.m.There are toilets and changing rooms (not in good shape though)Pam Bok WaterfallWhen I say that my organization for this day was not optimal, it is all the more true since the next stage was this time south of Pai, 24 km from Sai Ngam… In any case, you have several waterfalls around the city, Mo Pang Waterfall for example, a small waterfall to the west or Mae Yen Waterfall, accessible via a one-hour trek going into the mountain to the east.As it was March, a time with little water, it was not a priority to see them, but if I had to choose one, I set my sights on Pam Bok, which has the advantage of being easy to access and, above all, close to another attraction, the bamboo bridge, which shows that my organization was not a complete failure.Given the period, there was literally no one there when I visited, but the interest was obviously limited since there was no water... The only surprise was to come across a kind of chameleon, in "you didn't see me" mode, wedged against a rock. Usually, it's a fairly popular waterfall to cool off. Recently, Pam Bok has been less popular because it has suffered the "faults" of Thailand... For a long time, the waterfall, which is located at the end of a pretty little canyon, was accessible free of charge. It was initially made payable, at 40 baht, again why not if it can help keep the site clean.At the time of my visit, it was already integrated into the Lum Nam Pai Wildlife Sanctuary, whose entrance fee was then 200 baht. So yes, it is well laid out with a concrete path to easily access the foot of the waterfall, but since then, the price has doubled to 400 baht!!! We went from 0 to 400 baht between October 2019 and 2023. You only have to read the inflammatory reviews, it doesn't work...To give an idea of scale, there is a person in the middle at the bottom.Of course, this rate gives access to all the other sites in the national park, including another waterfall, Susa Waterfall (closer to Mae Hong Son), the Nam Bo Phi Cave (a bit in the middle of nowhere) or the famous Lod Cave in particular. Except that the sites are far from each other while the ticket is only valid for one day!This trend of not only making natural places almost systematically charge fees, as soon as they reach a certain popularity, combined with rapid increases, with a clearly abusive ratio, at some point it's just taking the piss. To put it into perspective, a Thai will have to pay 30 baht, so not only will he pay, but it's 10 times less than a foreigner, but I want to keep in mind that a Thai's salary is certainly not 10 times lower than that of a foreigner. In short, this kind of approach makes me mad...Price: 400 baht per person (half price for children, what a consolation…)Parking fee: 30 baht per scooter, 60 baht if you are drivingOpening hours: Monday to Sunday 8:00 a.m. to 18:00 p.m.There are toilets and changing rooms (not in good shape though)The Bamboo Bridge (Kho Ku So Bamboo Bridge)Barely 2 km further, we arrived at the entrance to the village of Ban Phaem Bok, where the bamboo bridge is located. Well, the main part is built of bamboo, but because it is designed to last, the posts supporting it are made of concrete. It is clearly not the only one of its kind because in recent years, this type of bridge crossing rice fields, often associated with cafes, has become legion.Contrary to appearances, the primary goal was not to attract tourists. Although it is recent, the bridge was built by the locals to connect the temple located on the other side on the mountainside, Wat Pa Huai Khai Khiri, so that the monks could reach the village more quickly in the morning.The reasoning being that, if there is indeed a road, the journey is a bit longer to go down to the village in this case, moreover, the road can sometimes be flooded by the river in the rainy season. Finally, the other reason given is that this time saving and especially the place of passage, allows the inhabitants to offer alms to the monks and to go directly to work in the fields in the process rather than waiting for them to come to the village in front of their house.Part of me can't help but think that this story is a form of "pretext" to add a cultural dimension to the place when the shortcut only removes 300 m of travel, and especially that everything is clearly arranged so that the tourist can take his little photos, after all, the two are not incompatible. There is no doubt that in the summer the setting is pleasant, since we are surrounded by mountains, the very green rice fields always give off a wow effect. There in the dry season around to say that this wow effect fell into the water like the one that was sorely missing.As such, tourists are expected to pay a donation by slipping a small note into the box placed for this purpose at the entrance point. On the plus side, the village nearby is much more welcoming than the one near the hot spring visited earlier. While walking around, I came across a little granny sorting vegetables and on the way back to the car, a group of women sorting red beans.Pai CanyonI then wanted to find a nearby cafe with a view just to try one. I went to the Baandoi cafe and eatery, which has good reviews and indeed a beautiful view of the mountains. Unfortunately, with this covid period, no cook present so it was not possible to eat... So we went back to town to find something before going to the last stop of the day, because we were already approaching the end of the afternoon.And THE thing at the end of the day in Pai is to go to the canyon to watch the sunset. We were actually a bit too early since it wasn't even 17 p.m. The advantage was that we were able to enjoy the site at first with almost no one around. Located 8 km south of the city, the canyon is a geological curiosity.It is not a canyon in the strict sense of the term, but rather an area where erosion has sculpted the land to form ravines that can be explored, somewhat at our own risk, because nothing is marked. Some passages are quite narrow and steep, so not really recommended for young children, unless you are content with the upper plateau, just to watch the sun go down in the distance.I really enjoyed this place, even though it was dry and marked by the characteristic burns of this season. It was photogenic and the setting added a beautiful atmosphere to the sunset. Around 18pm, more and more people arrived to watch the show and find a good spot to see the last rays of sun disappear behind the horizon.Other sites around PaiI have already mentioned a few in the article, but here is a random list of other possible visits in the surroundings of Pai.In hot spring, 20 km southwest of Pai, you have " Mueang Rae Pai Geyser Hot Springs", a spot right on the side of the road (be careful, the water is over 90°C!). As a waterfall, combined with a hike, you have in the East Mae Yen Waterfall.Isolated in the north, but I really hesitated to go there (if it was the right season, I wouldn't have even hesitated), you have a small ruin in the middle of the rice fields, the Phrathat Mueang Noi. Close to the Yun Lai Viewpoint mentioned above, there is a small waterfall with a swimming pool, Mo Pang Waterfall.Still not far away, there is also one of the attractions that you will see included in the tours offered on site for the day, a "Chinese" village called Santichon Village. Personally, I haven't visited it, because it's clearly more of an attraction aimed at Thais and Instagram fans. It's a Disneyland-like attraction, with terracotta houses and thatched roofs, and a reproduction of the Chinese Wall at the entrance.To the south, you have near the canyon and the already mentioned hot springs (Tha Pai Hot Spring) an old bridge which dates from the Second World War, Tha Pai Memorial Bridge, perfect for a little photo stop.Of course, there is still the simple option of wandering through the countryside. After all, outside of Pai itself, these are essentially villages whose main activity revolves around agriculture, even if here and there you can find activities like cricket, an elephant camp (not recommended) or tubing.Practical tips for PaiWhere to sleep in PaiI was targeting the area just across the river at the end of the walking street. The advantage is to be close to the action, while staying away to be quiet. And for that, I chose this guesthouse:Pai Loess ResortThe small resort is barely 100 md from the street of the night market thanks to the small bamboo bridge spanning the river. The rooms are spacious although quite basic and located in bungalows on stilts. We also had a balcony with a hammock that I was able to enjoy a little. The manager is adorable and offers an excellent breakfast, which is taken on a terrace overlooking the river. Moreover, at this place, you also have a café, the Daddy Chill Cafe', with the possibility of having a beer and enjoying the view. Overall great impression for this little paradise surrounded by nature.Getting to PaiOne of the best carriers for this region is Prem Pracha, which offers minibus connections between Chiang Mai, Pai, Mae Hong Son and Mae Sariang. For Chiang Mai – Pai road, then count 240 baht and 4h20 journey (with stops because the turns are exhausting).You can book on 12GB If you want support the blog by clicking on the following link: Minibus Prem PrachaOtherwise here is their official website: https://premprachatransports.com/If you plan to go solo, whether by car or scooter, I can only remind you of the danger of the roads in Thailand, and particularly in the mountains, where cutting across the road is a national sport (ok, I'm exaggerating a bit). I invite you, if you haven't already done so, to read my article about driving in Thailand and strongly encourages you, for two wheels, to be obviously careful and above all to ride in accordance with the rules (motorcycle license A required).My impressions of Pai, the authentic charm?I wanted to conclude this article with a little reflection and try to answer the question: Why does Pai attract so many visitors? "Authentic"; it's a term (a bit of a catch-all in general), that I often see coming up regarding Pai and I wanted to give my vision of the thing. What is it really? Is Pai really this little paradise with an idyllic setting for budding adventurers in search of tranquility? It's a question that I want to try to answer while remaining objective.And to answer, we would first have to define what an "authentic" place actually is... Overall, we could define an authentic place as a place that preserves its cultural, historical and traditional characteristics, thus offering a genuine experience that is not altered by mass tourism. A definition that is quite valid for the north of Thailand, especially if we compare it with the south and its beaches.And at first glance, it's true that Pai ticks that box quite a bit. Out of curiosity, I asked ChatGPT how he would define what an "authentic" place is and here is his answer:Preserved local culture: It preserves its local traditions, customs and arts, and the local population continues to live according to their traditional ways of life.Interaction with local people: Visitors can interact with locals, exchange knowledge, learn their history and share authentic moments with them.Preserved environment: The place preserves its natural environment, its landscapes, its original fauna and flora, thus avoiding excessive and harmful exploitation.No overtourism: An authentic place is not overcrowded with tourists and is not subject to excessive commercialization. It offers a more intimate and immersive experience.Local Accommodation and Dining: Accommodation and dining options are mostly run by locals, offering authentic cuisine and hospitality.On the first point, it is difficult to contradict, between the temples with Shan architecture, the small ethnic villages around and the small quiet town aspect, we are pretty good. Regarding the second point, it is debatable to the extent that even in a very touristy place, it will logically also be possible to discuss and interact with the local population. The difference will perhaps be in the ulterior motive, more focused on money in some cases (like the south of the country), than in a purely friendly and disinterested approach.For the 3rd point, nothing to complain about at first glance, it matches Pai, which remains overall a very ordinary countryside. But already there, we begin to point out the effect of tourism. Because where natural sites would usually be free or possibly accessible at a reasonable price, we find ourselves paying abusive entrance fees for imaginary national parks, to go see a simple little waterfall… And that, it is the excesses of mass tourism…And it gets even more stuck at point number 4. Without being in an extreme excess as some beaches in the south of Thailand can be in high season, all things considered, there can frankly be people in Pai. And it is all the more visible since it is basically a small town.You quickly come across as many foreigners as locals, at least in the central area. But even when walking around the valley, you have a good chance of coming across small herds of foreigners on scooters. This was particularly the case for the canyon and some popular spots like the "sunset" cafes, and again, I want to remind you that tourism was not running at full capacity.But we still feel that it is not Issan (northeast region, where mass tourism is absent). Tourism has even almost doubled the population of Pai in less than 20 years, that is not nothing.We come to the 5th point. As such, I think to this day that most guesthouses and restaurants are well managed by locals, BUT, the latter have adapted to tourism. Already, their number, relative to the size of the city, when we see that there are about twenty hotels just around the river in the area behind Walking Street, it is clear that there are people. Then, when we see that in a restricted area there are no less than 5, 6 restaurants offering burgers on the menu, it is also a tourist influence.Same at the night market, where of course, you will certainly find the unbeatable Pad Thai or the Mango Sticky Rice, but because they are best sellers with foreigners precisely. Otherwise, you can find everything there, but not much Thai cuisine, a fairly cosmopolitan gastronomy like those who visit the city. Apart from food, you will mainly find souvenir type products and the famous elephant pants rather than real local know-how.Finally, and perhaps most obviously, there is an abnormally developed nightlife in Pai, and I'm not just talking about the city. While walking around the area, you might come across bars in the middle of nowhere, Woodstock Pai Bar and Bed, Skunk Land Bar and Rest or Valhalla Bar and so on, unmistakable names where the cool rasta atmosphere predominates.This brings me back to point number 1 and the way of life. In my opinion, the latter is still partially altered by tourism. Normally, the population gets up quite early in the countryside, the days being punctuated by the alms offered to the monks in the morning and work in the fields afterwards (even if, I remind you, we were there in March, not really the ploughing season).Here, we have the impression of seeing Khao San Road The day after a party, it's deserted in the morning, because everyone is recovering from the night before due to the late hours, typical of the tourists' rhythm. I can also add the appearance of typical tourist activities, such as "tubing", this fashion originally popularized in Vang Vieng in Laos, where you let yourself drift along the water on a buoy (and which is often accompanied by a bucket of alcohol or a beer in hand...)In the end, I can understand the attraction to Pai, especially among young people. It is perceived as an area "off the beaten track", it is outside the big cities while remaining at least a little lively. It is a relaxed atmosphere, accentuated by the feeling of being free, in particular by being able to walk around at your own pace on a scooter as it is generally the means of transport to get there and gravitate around. As it is also in the North of the country, we do not feel the same mentality as in the South where the "wallet on foot" side is sometimes obvious.So yes, Pai has undeniable assets. Afterwards, it is a bit misleading to think that it represents the quintessence of "authentic" Thailand. For a fairly simple reason, personally, I see Pai a bit like the Ko Phangan of the North, an area that remains sufficiently touristy to be influenced, but without being crowded. It is a place appreciated and sought after especially by a youth in search of a place a little out of time. But in terms of authenticity, there is clearly better elsewhere, including in terms of pure and hard landscape as far as Pai is concerned, by going towards Mae Hong Son, you will have much better surprises. 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