What to do in Ranong? Nature getaway in southern Thailand

Located on the Andaman coast, Ranong is both a city and a province in southern Thailand, directly across from Burma, from which it is separated only by an inlet of sea. Sparsely populated and largely unspoiled, it is in fact the least densely populated province in the country.

And for good reason: approximately 80% of its surface area is covered in forests, the vast majority of which are in mountainous areas. A perfect place for nature lovers, with lush jungle, waterfalls, wild beaches, and small, remote roads to explore.

It was actually one of the very first provinces I discovered when I first arrived in Thailand. At the time, we had flown over it a bit. So when the opportunity arose to return, it was like a rediscovery. This time, we really took the time to settle down, to explore further — knowing that we were then planning to reach the beautiful island of Ko Phra Thong, in the neighboring province.

So here is my little personal anthology, between quiet city and raw nature.

Ranong History in Brief

During the Ayutthaya Kingdom period, Ranong served as an outpost to protect Chumphon (the most important city at that time) from Burmese invasions.

At the beginning of the Rattanakosin Kingdom era (the name of Thailand from the founding of Bangkok in 1782 until 1932), Ranong took its current name after a nobleman in charge of the city, Lord Ranong. At the same time, the city would really take off following the discovery of tin deposits, a story similar to the development of Phuket Island.

A young merchant from Zhangzhou, in Fujian province in China, would change the destiny of Ranong. Khaw Soo Cheang (also spelled Kho Su Jiang), who started out as a simple farmer on the island of Penang before becoming interested in trade, would buy up all the tin businesses, taking control of the city until becoming its main tax collector in 1844. When Lord Ranong died in 1854, Khaw Soo Cheang would become governor of Ranong and receive the royal title of Pha Rattana Sedtee under the reign of King Mongkut (Rama IV).

Portrait of the patriarch and his descendants.

Under the reign of his successor, King Chulalongkorn (Rama V), he obtained the title of Phraya, having become close to the royal court in Thailand. Ranong obtained around the same time (I found the information 1864 or 1877, but no sure date...) the status of a province in its own right (and no longer dependent on Chumphon). In 1874, one of his sons succeeded him as governor, while Khaw Soo Cheang, aged over 80, had returned to live in China for 2 years, leaving the family home to his other sons in Penang (in Malaysia). He married an 18-year-old woman and died a beautiful death in 1882, leaving a considerable inheritance to his descendants and forever marking the now city of Ranong.

Reading the story, I am myself amazed how one person can completely influence the evolution of an entire country. To illustrate this sentence, I can simply specify that one of his sons, Khaw Sim Bee was the one who introduced the rubber industry in Thailand by bringing the first rubber trees from Malaysia (for the record, today, Thailand is the main producer country), he was also an influential governor of Phuket.

How to get to Ranong?

If there is no train to Ranong, you still have 2 options:

By plane : Without a doubt the easiest. You will find a few daily flights from Don Muang to Bangkok via low cost airlines like AirAsia (a flight at 11:45) or Nok Air (an early morning flight before 6am and another late afternoon flight after 18pm) – expect to pay at least €50 to get there

The airport is located 20 km south of the city, plan to organize a transfer between it and your hotel (count at least 200 Baht).

Air Asia plane parked at Don Muang.

By bus: You will have more options in terms of schedules and a lower cost by using the buses.

- From Bangkok : From the bus station located in the west of Bangkok (Sai ​​Tai Mai or Southern Terminal in English), expect to pay between 400 and 700 Baht (first class and VIP buses) for a journey of around 10 hours. Given the duration, most journeys are made at night with departures between 20 p.m. and 22:50 p.m. (there is however a bus leaving at 8 a.m. in the morning)

- From Chumphon : You will find minibuses leaving every hour from 7am to 17pm for 150 Baht (journey time: 2 hours).

- From Krabi Buses depart at 7am, 10am, and 13:30pm. The fare is 360 baht and the journey takes 6 hours. These buses also serve Phang Nga Town.

- From Phuket : Buses depart approximately every 1 hours from 30:06 AM until 30:17 PM, with a fare of 45 baht for a 225-hour journey. This bus also serves Khuraburi (for 6 baht); Takua Pa (for 100 baht); and Khao Lak for 140 baht. Takua Pa is a stopover/transfer point if you plan to go to Khao Sok National Park.

– From Samui: From the island, you will need to reach the continent and its nearest town, Surat Thani, you will then have minibuses leaving every hour from 6 a.m. to 16 p.m., price 190 Baht for a 4-hour drive.

– From Prachuap Khiri Kan: If you stop off on your way south, you can reach Ranong from this town, minibuses leave every hour from 7am to 16pm, fare 250 Baht for a 5-hour drive.

On site, you will have the traditional songthaew to take you to different points of the city.

The local songthaews are an attraction in themselves!

What to do and see in Ranong city

Most people passing through Ranong go there mainly to then go to the nearby islands (named Ko Phayam and Ko Chang) or otherwise to go for a trip to neighboring Myanmar (which was my case during my last stay). Few take the time to walk around there, judging it too quickly boring and uninteresting.

Like a breath of old.

It is certain that we are far from the charm of a seaside town (as evidenced by its beach, Chan Damri Beach, which certainly does not have the same appeal of the white sand beaches that other places in Thailand can offer) but there are still some attractions to see there that deserve at least a short day in the city.

Ranong Fish Market

You can't miss it if you plan to go to Kawthaung in Myanmar, because the market is located right next to the boarding area where the immigration passage is located. If the strong smell of fish doesn't bother you, it's a unique atmosphere and the feeling of already being at the neighbor's house as there are a large number of Burmese people circulating in the area.

Rattanarangsan Palace

One of the main attractions is Rattanarangsan Palace. Situated on a hill overlooking the city, it is a replica of the palace that hosted King Chulalongkorn (Rama V) during his visit to the city in 1890.

Rattanarangsan Palace in Ranong.

The original building had been replaced by another solid structure before being razed for some unknown reason. In addition to taking up the wooden architecture, the building houses a museum with photos and elements concerning the history of Ranong. The location is indeed the original one and if only for the view, this little visit is worth it.

Schedule and prices

Open Tuesday to Thursday from 09am to 15pm and Friday to Sunday until 17:30pm (like all museums in Thailand, they close on Mondays)
Admission: 100 baht for foreigners – 20 Baht for Thais

The Sino-Portuguese architecture of the old town

From this rush for tin, there remains as much Phuket town some traces of the architecture specific to these Chinese merchants who came to make their fortune in Thailand.

The old cinema.

Even though there are fewer than in other cities, you can see some Sino-Portuguese style facades. Too bad the mess of electric and telephone wires, typical of all cities in Thailand, spoils the experience a little.

But it's not unpleasant. You'll find most of the interesting houses along Ruangrat Street, especially at the Bang San crossroads, the road that crosses it is the one leading to Khao Niwet Hill, where the Rattanarangsan Palace mentioned just above is located.

The advantage is that you will probably be the only tourists. I like this atmosphere. It is colorful, a bit messy, but you still feel the "old" aspect.

I expected, however, since it's a bit fashionable, to come across a bit more street art, but if I was disappointed from that point of view, I don't regret this little excursion into the old town, as it's very concentrated, it doesn't hurt to wander around there for a while, right after or on the way to the palace.

Ranong Governor's Residence

For the curious like me and interested in history, you can take a tour to see the ruins of the Governor's Residence (also known as Chao Muang Ranong Camp). This was the original location of the residence of the governor who was none other than Khaw Soo Cheang's son.

Built from 1877, it was surrounded by a protective wall, because the governor had to face a Chinese rebellion for a time, fearing for his safety, the residence had the appearance of a fort, which could also serve as a place of refuge in the event of a Burmese invasion.

The residence in its heyday.

Basically all that remains of it today…

Although the residence unfortunately no longer exists today, a few pillars remain and two buildings can be seen, one of which retains the architectural style of the time. During our visit, a descendent of the family (which became known as Na Ranong) came to give us a free tour.

In the open building, there were period photos, including one showing the magnificent residence that was once the residence, but also collections of porcelain, notably French, but also newspaper cuttings and period documents, some of which came from neighboring Indochina (therefore France).

Free visits

Raksa Warin Hot Spring

Ranong is also known for its hot springs. The closest to the center, which I therefore include in the city section, is Raksa Warin, just 3 km from the center. There you will find centers offering spa sessions and jacuzzis using the source.

The area has been developed a lot so you don't expect a green area with a natural hot spring coming out in the middle of the woods... However, the setting is still pretty, with the river passing next to it and a suspension bridge crossing it (connecting the 2 roads that border the said river).

For free, you can always dip your feet in the public baths in shallow water at 40°C. Otherwise, you will have to pay at least 40 Baht to enjoy better equipped pools, towel included.

Raksa Warin Hot Spring.

Foot basins.

A suspension bridge to reach the source.

What to visit in Ranong province

Let's now review some attractions in the province of Ranong, which is spread over a length of more than 150 km but I am mainly interested here in the places that I have already visited (because well, I don't really like to talk about what I don't know), that is to say especially the southern part of the province (and therefore south of the city).

Khao Phee View Point and Punyaban Waterfall

The list follows more or less a north to south order, so I start with the northernmost visit of the province. I group these 2 visits not because they are side by side, but because they are both on the road to Ranong, if you arrive from the main road from Chumphon (road n°2).

You will first come across the Khao Phee viewpoint, which can be accessed on the other side if you drive in the direction Chumphon – Ranong. 2,5 km before the village of La Un, located on the banks of the river of the same name (and where an old steam locomotive sits), a small road climbs a hill overlooking the Kraburi River, which rises from the sea on the Kra Isthmus and separates Thailand from Myanmar, opposite.

Photo credit : Prakasit Poonapirat

The view looks superb and I regret having missed it (despite my scouting, sometimes I only discover places when writing the article).

Without much regret either, because at the time we passed the path, it was already dark. In doing so, we also passed the other possible visit without realizing it, located 19 km further south of the viewpoint (14 km before arriving in Ranong).

Right on the side of the road is the Punyaban waterfall, which cascades down from the top of the mountain and passes under the main road. There is a parking lot where you can stop and get some fresh air.

Ko Phayam and Ko Chang Islands

I mentioned it above, but these are the main attractions of Ranong, it's crazy how islands get people moving... So be careful not to confuse the Ko Chang here, a very small island in the Andaman Sea, with the big one (the 3rd largest in Thailand) off the coast of Trat, close to Cambodia in the Gulf of Thailand.

To distinguish, the latter can be called Ko Chang Noi, little Ko Chang.

I'm not going to delve too much into these islands, because I've never been to Ko Phayam and although I have been to Ko Chang, the smaller of the two, I wrote a dedicated article about this somewhat unusual visit, even though it's a bit dated (since it was in 2).

Article about Ko Chang

I hadn't really been able to appreciate its relaxed and preserved character since we were there for the day only, with the stress of having to get back to the boat in time for the return trip. But even in 201, it has always kept its "hippie" side, an island without artifice, no ATM, no 7-11 or even a road, which is what more and more people are looking for in a time when everything is urbanizing too quickly...

How to get to these islands?

To simplify, the following information concerns access to the islands in "high season", from November to May, in which case access, although possible, will be less obvious, because subject to the weather, with the idea of ​​only one possible departure in the morning (around 9 a.m. in general).

Getting to Ko Phayam: count 200 Bahts by longtail to reach Ko Phayam (departures at 9:30, 10:14 and 350:2), 9 Bahts by speedboat (departures every 30 hours approximately between 16:30 and 9:13). Return to the continent at 8:15 and XNUMX:XNUMX for the longtail and XNUMX:XNUMX and XNUMX:XNUMX for the speedboat.

Getting to Ko Chang: count 200 Bahts by longtail to reach Ko Chang (departures at 9:30, 13:14 and 350:9), 30 Bahts by speedboat (departures at 10:30 and 8:30). Return to the continent at 14:15, 7:17 and XNUMX:XNUMX for the longtail and every hour between XNUMX:XNUMX and XNUMX:XNUMX for the speedboat.

It is possible to connect Ko Phayam from Ko Chang by speedboat (350 Baht) and vice versa but to reach Ko Phayam from Ko Chang, you will then have to pay for an entire longtail alone to do so (i.e. 2000 Baht).

PornRang Hot Spring

10 km south of Ranong, you can go to another hot spring. The day we went (recently, not in 2009), it was crowded, a lot of people even since it was school holidays.

The places are arranged around a stream in a setting surrounded by nature. It is more pleasant than Raksa Warin because less overrated. Lots of shade because surrounded by forest, you will have several spots to swim. Either in the stream, at normal temperature (rather cool therefore) or in the small pools / basins arranged with water at 42 ° C (it is also advisable not to stay there more than 10 minutes, it is still hot for the human body!).

Despite the crowds, I found the atmosphere good-natured and we were still able to soak our feet, both warm and cool in a quieter corner of the stream. Lots of fish in the water including the famous little fish that come and nibble on your bits of dead skin, if you are sensitive to them, be warned 🙂

I make a distinction between this place and the Ngao National Park which I cite below although the hot springs are officially part of this same national park, therefore, access is chargeable.

Entrance fee: 100 Baht per adult (20 Baht for Thais)
Opening hours: 8h00 – 16h30

Phu Khao Ya

Phu Khao Ya is a local curiosity in terms of landscape. Nicknamed the Bald Hill, this open area bordering the main road and facing Ngao National Park is very popular with locals.

If only to come and have a picnic and take a selfie in front of what appears to us to be just a simple hill with no trees on top... The appearance is certainly a little unusual, but why such an attraction?

Personally, it was the view of the surrounding mountains that I appreciated, we saw 2 waterfalls flowing down the hill bordering the road, cows were quietly grazing the green grass in the area. Peaceful atmosphere and pleasant landscape can be enough to understand the desire to sit down there to eat a bite and relax (all that's missing is a small stream and it would be a perfect setting!).

Wat Thung Ngao

One of the only places I haven't visited personally, not having spotted it before, but if you were to go to only one temple in this area, it would be Wat Thung Ngao. And as can be the case regularly when it comes to temples, it is not for the religious building itself, but the setting around it.

Photo credit : www.baagklong.com

As it is located just over 1 km further south of Phu Khao Ya, you will enjoy a similar landscape, but with a little extra. Indeed, just behind the temple and part of the place, you have a hill, the top of which is accessible via a series of steps. The hill is also devoid of trees, so it is not the small Buddha statue and the few bells that are there that interest us, but the fact that you will then have a beautiful 360° view of the region!

In front, you will have below the temple with the mountain of the Ngao waterfall national park, on the other side, you can see the mangroves spreading to the visible seaside. Note that you can also see the hills of Phu Khao Ya from this spot.

Ngao Mangrove Forest Research Center

Assuming that you have not yet seen a mangrove during your stay(s) in Thailand, it is then possible to go to the Ngao Mangrove Forest Research Center to do so.

A view of the mangroves at the Ranong Research Center.

The path passes through the mangrove, making a well-marked loop.

Located along a small road passing behind a small mountain in front of which is Phu Khao Ya and the main road, you can walk through a section of this large mangrove, itself divided into 2 parts where we distinguish 2 varieties of trees according to the water level. Some explanatory signs are scattered along the route making a loop.

You can normally come across a species of lobster that lives in this environment. If for my part I only saw small crabs and a few birds, it was always nice to take a little nature walk in the shade, knowing that there were not many people.

Namtok Ngao National Park

Known for its waterfall cascading down the mountain, I didn't have time to check it out for myself. But like all national parks in Thailand, you will find places to eat, toilets and, above all, a path to walk in nature and see the waterfall.

Entrance fee: 100 Baht
Opening hours: 8h30 – 16h30

A glimpse of the waterfall cascading down the mountain in the national park.

Laem Son National Park

Laem Son National Park is the main one in the region. Encompassing an entire area bordering the sea south of the city and stretching over 30 km, the park includes several deserted beaches several kilometers long as well as a group of small uninhabited islands.

The beaches

Hat Bang Ben (หาดบางเบน): the main beach of the park, where the headquarters of Laem Son is located. It is a wide sandy beach bordered by pine trees, a completely natural beach, very local as we like. You can find some accommodation and something to eat there
Hat Pra Pas (หาดประพาส): Similar to Bang Ben, Pra Pas Beach is a large beach also lined with pine trees and stretching over 3 km, 20 km further south.
Hat Mani Nakha and Talay Nok Fishery: spotted Mani Nakha Beach and Talay Nok Fishery on Google Maps, getting there will take you along another completely deserted beach also called Thalae Nok. A path starting from the school in the neighboring village of Baan Talay allows you to get there easily at the end. And there is the small fishing port of the village, which you will come across shortly before arriving at the seaside and where there are accommodations.

The photos below are all from Bang Ben main beach.

The islands

Ko Khangkhao (เกาะค้างคาว): is an island with sandy beaches and a gravel beach in the north known as Hat Hin Ngam.
Ko Kam Yai (เกาะกำใหญ่) is a picturesque island with white sand beaches.
Ko Kam Nui (เกาะกำนุ้ย) is not far from Ko Kam Yai with beaches on one side and many other islets nearby.

Entrance fee: 100 Baht
Opening hours: 8h00 – 16h30

Where to stay in Ranong

The question that is always worth asking. If you will find quite a few offers in the city itself, I was able to see some interesting establishments well out of the way while doing my research on the last stay.

But it is not always easy to find the balance between charm and location, some hotels clearly play the card of an atypical or even outstanding place (I am speaking in general) but require an effort to get there.

Hotels tested in Ranong

Thansila Resort

Budget: from 700 Baht (19€)

The rating: 7.9/10

The Hidden Resort & Restaurant

Budget: from 1 Baht (€940)

The rating: 8.8/10

Ranong River View

Budget: from 773 Baht (22€)

The rating: 8.5/10

Research tool

True to form, I found the hotels listed below on Agoda, so I'm making the tool available to you (and don't forget the little tip along the way).

So, Ranong, what to see?

Ranong is one of those destinations that is largely ignored in Thailand and yet has undeniable assets. Here we enter the paradox of people who want to discover Thailand, although touristy, we are not going to hide it, but who, as an "off the beaten track", will surely settle for a destination that is "easier" to access like Khao Lak (because it is closer to Phuket) rather than a place perceived as more ordinary.

While in the end, like many "secondary" destinations, Ranong is perhaps more worth a visit than a "must-see" place, because ultimately, if you really want to discover a country, it is by going precisely where others do not go. I do not despair of continuing to promote more atypical destinations, because I know that among you, there will be some who will show an interest and curiosity to go there.

And yet we are far from the truly "secret" place but I always have this apprehension when talking about places like Ranong that a majority of you will ignore it because you will have to follow the essential places listed in your guide, and the worst thing is that I can't blame you.

We are all a bit the same deep down, but my real conclusion is, dare, venture a little, Thailand has this luxury of being safe. Treat yourself to at least one or two days off any "classic" circuit, you will thank me later 😉

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