Wat Muang is a temple that is the pride of Ang Thong, the province in which it is located. Situated 8 km from the city, in the Wiset Chai Chan district, amidst the countryside, stands what is now the 7th largest statue in the world and the largest in Thailand . Quite something.
At 92 meters high and 63 meters wide , it certainly makes an impression. However, the temple is much more than just the Great Buddha; it's full of surprises. Here's a quick tour!
A day trip from Bangkok to Wat Muang in Ang Thong is still feasible. Located 120 km from the capital , this is an acceptable distance for a round trip.
The temple is located 8 km from the city of Ang Thong , the main city that gives its name to the province. It is also only 40 km north of the Ayutthaya Historical Park and 50 km southwest of Lopburi, another attraction in this part of Thailand.
From Bangkok
You need to go to the Mo Chit bus terminal, towards the north of the city (BTS station of the same name then tuk tuk or taxi to the terminal).
You will find minivans there making the trip on average every half hour (as soon as they are full) from 6 am to 18 pm. Expect to pay 100 Baht per person.
Once you arrive at the Ang Thong bus terminal, you still have 8 km to go to the temple . If you're feeling adventurous, motorbike taxis can make the trip for 100 Baht (but what about the return trip?).
The best thing is to take a tuk tuk which can take you there, wait for you and bring you back according to a formula of which I do not know the cost but I estimate that it should not exceed 1 Baht.
If you want to keep it simple , you can find private vans through local agencies in Khao San Road, for example, or even taxis on the street that can take you on this excursion. Expect to pay around 3,000 Baht, which includes highway tolls, fuel, and the driver. This option will cover the entire day, allowing you to combine a visit to Wat Muang with the main sites of Ayutthaya or also visit Lopburi.
From Ayutthaya
Same procedure as above. Minivan to Ang Thong and same story. Don't try to go there by tuk tuk, it's too far for them. However, a taxi can take you there.
I would like to clarify in relation to the information above:
If you're on a tight budget , you can take a minivan from Ang Thong (from the street next to the bus terminal; they'll usually have a number, 951 or 952). The minivan will then pass by the road leading to the temple. For 20 baht , it can drop you off there (it's just past a PTT gas station). From there, you'll only have the last 950 meters to walk to the temple (but then again, what about the return trip?).
From Lopburi
Another possible option for getting to Ang Thong. If you're passing through and/or plan to visit Prang Sam Yod, an old Khmer temple, and see the monkeys of Lopburi , then go for it.
To do this, you can either come by bus or by train from Hua Lamphong station in Bangkok. For a not too late arrival, you have departures from respectively:
| 07:00 | 08:30 | 09:25 | 10:50 |
A short history of the Great Buddha of Ang Thong
I just learned this while writing this article, but Wat Muang, although the buildings we see are all recent, is built on the site of an ancient temple, more than 300 years old.
Indeed, at the time when Ayutthaya was the flamboyant capital of the kingdom, a small temple was erected in this countryside, around 1687. Unfortunately, the Burmese army destroyed the capital in 1767, they burned many places of worship in their path and left a veritable field of ruins behind them.
As a result, the then Wat Muang was abandoned. Until a local monk, Phra Kru Vibul Arjarakhun decided to make it his place of worship. Although he settled there in 1983, official authorization to make it an active temple again did not arrive until 1984.
It was not until 1991 that the idea of building the largest Buddha statue in the world (at the time of its conception) was launched, in honour of His Majesty King Bhumibol (Rama IX, now deceased).
With the foundation stone laid in March 1991, construction was completed some 16 years later in July 2007. The statue, named Maha Nawamin Sakyamuni, represents a budget from donations totaling more than 100 million Baht (€2.7 million).
His full name turns out to be Phra Phuttha Mahanawamintra Sakayamunee Sri Visejchaicharn (Thai: พระพุทธมหานวมินทรศาก ยมุนีศรีวิเศษชัยชาญ), given by the monk who became abbot, at the origin of the revival of Wat Muang, Phra Khru Vibul Arjarakun.
- Phra Phuttha (พระพุทธ-) = The Buddha
- Mahanawamintra (มหานวมินทร-) = The Great (King Bhumibol)
- Sakayamunee (ศากยมุนี) = Sakayamunee Buddha (title given to Siddartha Gautama)
- Sri (ศรี) = sacred by
- Visejchaichan (วิเศษชัยชาญ) = Wiset Chai Chan, the name of the district where the statue is located
Put together, this translates to: The Great Gautama Buddha of Wiset Chai Chan, built to commemorate the great King Bhumibol . Note that although the abbot who initiated the temple's revival has passed away, his mummified body is visible inside the mirrored building (see the information in the short "guided tour" below).
What to expect at Wat Muang
Arriving at the parking lot in front of the main entrance, the Wiharn (place of prayer) does not go unnoticed since it is surrounded by pink petals, symbolizing the lotus flower. Photos at the entrance of a secondary hall show us that the latter must have been the first building built or rebuilt, because ultimately I do not know the state of the original temple.
The photos showing the site before work do not show much in the way of possible ruins but rather a wasteland. The whole thing having therefore been done from A to Z.
Opposite, behind a few shops selling children's toys and souvenirs, is what I call the building with mirrors. It is, in fact, covered on the outside with numerous mirrored tiles, giving the whole thing a greyish, but stylish look.
The interior is equally impressive, resembling a Thai-style hall of mirrors. From the mirrors on the ceilings to those covering the interior walls, the whole thing is reminiscent, in miniature, of the imposing Wat Tha Sung located further north in Uthai Thani (the latter is also known as the temple of mirrors).
While we can see the head of the imposing Buddha behind all these buildings, we can also see a kind of Chinese temple on the left. Recognizable by these columns surrounded by dragons; the dominant colors red and gold, it sits in the middle a divinity with multiple arms, Guanyin.
Guanyin is the Chinese form of the Buddhist deity Avalokiteshvara, often considered a female version of the Buddha. She is also known as the goddess of compassion (I even prefer the term mercy).
If you go to the opposite side of this shrine, to the right side of the building with mirrors, you will first be greeted by a "lucky buddha", the anglicism as defined by the Thais, but more generally known as "Laughing Buddha" in French.
His cheerful, pot-bellied appearance is characteristic of this Chinese version of a Buddha that isn't quite a Buddha. Called Budai by the Chinese (and Hotei by the Japanese), he is believed to be a representation of a 10th-century Chinese monk. According to Taoists, he is considered the god of contentment and abundance. For the Thais, he is primarily seen as a symbol of good luck (hence the expression "lucky Buddha") and fortune, and is used as an auspicious symbol in Feng Shui.
Garden of Hell
Just after the skeleton in traditional clothes greeting you with a wai, the Thai greeting (which is also a well-codified mark of respect), you will immediately be surprised by these two large statues sticking out their tongues.
Figures of a man and a woman, the frightening appearance symbolizes the ghostly side of what is similar to wandering souls. At their feet and around, you then enter what is called a garden of hell.
A recurring figure in Thai temples, the best-known example is Wat Wang Saen Suk and its "hell garden", located between Chonburi and Pattaya, near Bang Saen beach.
Just like here, the garden of hell at Wat Muang is intended as a literal representation of hell (called Naraka by the Thais), as conceived in Buddhist mythology. This results in various scenes with groups of bloodied sculptures, allegories representing the martyrdom of sinners. Not for the faint of heart!
This is generally viewed within families by Thais who see it as a form of pedagogy to learn how to behave well and do good deeds to avoid these bad spells.
A flagship position, in the middle of the countryside
After that moment of awe, there he is at last, majestic before you. The Buddha is seated in the position known as Mara Vichai, also called Bhumisparsha-Mudra, due to the position of the hands. It is one of the most common positions.
The Buddha is seated with his legs crossed in the lotus position. His right hand is placed on his knee, fingers pointing towards the ground while his left hand is flat on his leg, palm up.
This is a reference to Buddhist mythology in which the Buddha resisted the temptations of the maras, demons who appeared in the form of maidens to prevent the Buddha from attaining enlightenment. He then supposedly touched the ground to ask for help from the goddess called Phra Mae Thorani.
Under the kind of tent, allowing Thais to pray in the shade, it is sometimes calm if during the week, sometimes bustling if it falls on a weekend or public holiday. There is a statue of the former master of the place.
The statue has just been renovated this year (2019) and has regained its golden glow contrasting with the blue sky (when the weather is nice of course).
Climbing the stairs, you can access the terrace at the foot of the statue. Close to this imposing structure, you feel even smaller. In addition to being able to admire a partial view of the countryside surrounding the site, you can attend the moment of prayer, specific to the place.
Indeed, a small platform is provided, allowing one to touch the tip of Buddha's finger. Given his size, some still have to perform on tiptoe.
Scenes from life and good deeds
Once back down to earth, walk along the area near the pool that you will see on your left. You will then pass representations of the life of Buddha (aka Gautama Sidhartha), a scene from the Ramakien, a Thai mythology omnipresent in temples and also some more "raw" scenes of war between the eternal enemies, the Thais and the Burmese.
Walking towards the pond, you'll pass a small local market, likely sleepy during the week, but the little old lady selling bread should still be there. Feeding the fish is a common way to do a good deed in Thailand. And what fish they are! Large, voracious catfish await you in this pond facing the impassive Buddha.
For 12 Bahts, you will have achieved a good point for your karma 😉 An activity that will certainly delight your children, what's more!
To complete the loop, you will pass by the area dedicated to Chinese mythology. Around the Chinese pagoda, you will see rows of bells. In the background, there are statues of Thai war heroes (including women!).
Alongside these are scenes recounting the epic tale of the Monkey King and a series of monks with disconcerting appearances. Overall, it's rather cheerful, but with poses that raise questions. All this unfolds under the benevolent gaze of a statue of the goddess of mercy, this time depicted in all its simplicity, without her 1000 arms.
Bonus: a coffee break, with a view of the temple and its Buddha!
If, like me, caffeine is your friend and you're traveling independently, you can stop at the café on the main road, 1 km from the temple, barely 100 m past the intersection. You'll have a view of the rice paddies (it's fantastic if it's the right season) and also a breathtaking view of the large Buddha statue towering majestically above the fields.
Where to sleep in Ang Thong
I've never actually stayed overnight in Ang Thong itself; its proximity to Ayutthaya means I'm usually just passing through and stay further north (often in Sukhothai). Given the distance from Bangkok, it's even possible to visit for the day, making it unnecessary to stay overnight.
The only scenario I can think of is if you're using public transport and plan to continue your exploration north later. In that case, your schedule will likely force you to postpone your trip, although staying overnight in Lopburi , another interesting stop in this central part of Thailand, remains an option.
Book a hotel in Ang Thong
My opinion on Wat Muang
There's definitely a "Buddha Land" vibe. Lots of colors, things that seem outlandish, too much. However, the sheer size of the statue is impressive and worth the visit.
Even if the site is quiet on the day of your visit and lacks the usual blend of devotion and selfies from the Thais who usually bring it to life, it's still worthwhile. This won't be the case on weekends, however, as it's popular and quite crowded with locals.
And in any case, it remains exclusively not very touristy. You will therefore be at the heart of the daily life of Thais, with its small shops and local restaurants. Here you will come across sellers of lottery tickets or even the fortune teller waiting for the customer, the nun selling camphor-based products as well as bottles of honey and children's toys. Something to satisfy everyone!
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